Voile 75mm Mountaineer Binding Mounting Question

These backcountry bindings are not symmetrical because there is a little triangle cut out of the toe plate in a different spot on each binding.

Can someone confirm that the bindings should be mounted with the triangles on the outside of the skis--that would be my guess. Or should they be mounted so the triangles are on the inside of the ski and point to each other.

hmm. arent your skis symetrical? just mount it and when you use it keep the triangle out.

Remix said:

These backcountry bindings are not symmetrical because there is a little triangle cut out of the toe plate in a different spot on each binding.

Can someone confirm that the bindings should be mounted with the triangles on the outside of the skis--that would be my guess. Or should they be mounted so the triangles are on the inside of the ski and point to each other.

Click to expand...

Hi! My Rottefella 3-pins are similar but have an arrow actually pointing left or right... one for each binding. ANYWAY, the LEFT arrow points left and is on the left side of the left binding meaning that's supposed to go on the left ski - that's how I mounted it...

SO I would think YES, the mark on the left side of your binding should go ON the left ski!!!

Yes. And if you carefully line up the pin line to be exactly perpendicular to the length of the ski (as it should be), you will see that one side of the binding actually flares out from the ski at a slightly greater angle than the other. This is the lateral side ("outside"). This is to acommodate standard boot bills, which are also asymmetrical.

The earlier posters are correct--the skis are symmetrical and the bindings are asymmetrical (the wider side goes to the outsides of the skis).

How to mount 3-pin bindings:

Tools: #3 Posidrive (or Pozidriv) screwdriver (not Phillips), drill, centerpunch (or sharp nail),
9/64 inch drill bit, 4-hour (or longer) epoxy

Posidrive screwdriver:
http://www.akers-ski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3731&Category_Code=
BTW, the BD Binding Buddy has a posidrive bit
http://www.rei.com/product/791389

0. If you remove old bindings, there are small plastic plugs that you can put in the old holes. However you do it, plug and epoxy the old holes to keep water out of the ski core.

1. Put 2 inch masking tape on the mounting zone of the ski.
(To draw lines on.)
2. Draw ski centerline on tape.
3. To find (lengthwise) center of ski. I balance the ski over a
sharp edge="balance line". Other definitions of center: halfway
between tip and tail, halfway between ground contact points. (All
should yield similar results.) The balance line is probably best for
XC skis.
4. Average balance line from both skis and draw on tape.
5. Locate hole #1 on centerline 1 inch forward of balance line. (This
puts the pins on the balance line.)
6. Center-punch and drill hole #1 with 9/64 inch (3.6mm) bit.
Use tape on drill bit to limit depth. (It is best not to drill holes
through the base. . It can be fixed if you do...)
7. Dry mount (no glue) the binding with #1 screw only.
8. Put boot in binding. (Note left and right bindings and boots are
different. The skis are symmetrical.)
9. Center heel on ski. (I put a bit of tape on the back of the
heel, lay a straight edge from the center pin hole across the
center of the heel, and mark where the straight edge crosses the
back of the heel. When centering the heel on the ski, I simply
align this mark with the ski centerline.)
10. Remove boot without rotating binding.
11. Trace holes #2 and #3 from holes in binding.
12. Remove binding and drill holes #2 and #3.
13. Dry mount binding with all 3 screws.
14. Dry mount heel plate under center of boot heel with 1 screw. (#4)
(Don't install the plastic snap-in plate until final mount.)
15. Do other ski up to this point.
16. Remove bindings and heel plates. (Keep left bindings with left ski,
etc. The holes may not be symmetric.)
17. Mix epoxy and put in holes.
18. Mount bindings and wait for glue to harden. (I wait til the next day.)
19. Ski

Notes:
* In case you need to remove the bindings, 4-hour epoxy can be
softened by heat, faster epoxy cannot.
* It is worth reading http://www.telemarktips.com/BindingMount.html This describes how to mount similar Telemark bindings rather than XC ski bindings, but some of the tips are useful.

Doug

I followed the telemark tips and Doug Paul's info and had pretty good success!!! HOWEVER, the first time, I didn't align the boot heal so it was EXACTLY centered on the heal plate so i had to redo Second time WAS the charm!!! Since then, I've gotten better!!!

I know this all sounds confusing!!!!! (now I'm waiting for my HEAVY-DUTY tele bindings to arrive so I can REALLY "screw" things up!!! )

Becca M said:

I followed the telemark tips and Doug Paul's info and had pretty good success!!! HOWEVER, the first time, I didn't align the boot heal so it was EXACTLY centered on the heal plate so i had to redo Second time WAS the charm!!! Since then, I've gotten better!!!

Click to expand...

Measure twice and cut once...

Doug

DougPaul said:

Measure twice and cut once...

Click to expand...

Measure with a micrometer, cut with an axe.

Step 10 is the tricky part! On the last bindings I mounted, I installed one of the side screws first, so that the front screw could be installed with the boot still in the binding. Of course, this required a bit of advance planning so that the front screw would be pretty close to the center line, but it worked better for me, and it ensured that the heel was dead center.

psmart said:

Step 10 is the tricky part!

Click to expand...

Tighten the screw so that it has enough friction for the binding to stay in place when carefully removing the boot, but not so tight that you cannot rotate it into the proper alignment.

Some of the other how-to's also suggested that you make sure the screws are not so long that they penetrate the bottom of the ski. If they are too long, file the points down.

Doug

Thanks all for the info!