Iceland, Day 3 - Skaftafell National Park

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dr_wu002

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The walk past Skógafoss and the 14 or so waterfalls on the river Skóga on day 2 of the 9 day ring-around-Iceland excursion was the most spectacular hike I’ve ever been on. However, day 3 at nearby Skaftafell National Park quickly reset that standard and may have even raised the bar!

After Skógafoss we camped at Skaftafell National Park (Iceland’s largest National Park) and the next morning (day 3) headed out for a longish dayhike. Our destination was the largest peak in the area, Kristínartindar (1126m) but as you’ll see – we never actually reached the summit. Though hopefully, when you see the views we had all around (especially from a ledge called Gláma) you’ll agree that it really didn’t matter.

The first part of the trail goes up to an interesting waterfall called Svartifoss where you can actually walk behind the falls and not get wet! This would also be the last time we saw a single person from this point on – we had Skaftafell all to ourselves from here on. The hike continues on from here, quickly lifting above the scrub and into the open while basically taking a stroll over some gentle hills. The views are incredible, particularly to the west towards glacier Skeiðarárjökull and it’s associated mountains. All the while though, the jagged, knife-edged Kristínartindar is looming to your east, begging for one photo-op after another.

It turned out that the approach to Kristínartindar from the west had a lot of snow and was pretty steep so we opted to loop around the mountain and approach from the East. We never made it from the east either – a rough herd path simply got too steep and the official “trail” had a really nasty snowfield to cross with about a 60˚ grade… however, no crampons, no ice axe = no crossing. It didn’t matter… we ended up on a ledgy, “Bondcliff-like” area called Gláma (pronounced Glowma, “ow” as in cow) and honestly, nothing else mattered from this point on. While the trail itself the day before on river Skóga was the highlight, Gláma in itself was something to marvel at. We spent what seemed like hours there, gazing to the peaks in the east, wild and treacherous Kristínartindar to the West and the massive glacier, Skaftafellsjökull in the North. It’s pretty hard to describe – without sounding ridiculous – what we saw without checking out the pictures. About all you could do was stare… it was the first time I’d seen anything like this, particularly the enormity of the glacier which was literally crushing on top of the mountains in the distance. It’s a sight, let me tell you…

After what seemed like a few hours and a final aborted attempt up the summit “cone” of Kristínartindar we headed the long walk out. Please check out the full set of photos here:

http://community.webshots.com/album/369744291QdlclH

and here are some sneak previews:
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Gláma:
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Views from Gláma:
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-Dr. Wu (click for the pic)
 
Dr Wu - just amazing. Have to start saving for those $5 Cokes :)

One question - bugs?

Can't wait for future installments!

Bob
 
HikerBob said:
Dr Wu - just amazing. Have to start saving for those $5 Cokes :)

One question - bugs?

Can't wait for future installments!

Bob
The temperature ranged from 35 to about 55 and averaged about 48 while I was there... perhaps a little cool for the bugs at that point. I believe they come out more a little later in the season. They have midge flies and a non-biting type of black fly and supposedly some mosquitoes. Supposedly, and I don't believe this, either the midge or the black fly relative will eat your hair. I found no evidence of this as (look at the pictures) my mop is still there!

Sticks said:
WOW, awesome pictures........
Did you see any wildlife?
More on this later... but we saw reindeer, wild horses and sheep -- basically (along with cows, the arctic fox and some field mice) the only non-human mammals on the Island. The sheep are damn near wild by the way -- they roam everywhere and most farms don't have fences and oftentimes you find the sheep up a mountain, miles away from the closest farm house. They're amazing! They're not as dumb as you think either... they don't run at the car like deer and squirrels do but get out of the way quickly and herd their lambs away too. The lamb is excellent in Iceland but I felt like I was eating one of my kittens... those buggers are so cute! It was a real treat to see wild horses and I've never seen caribou in the wild before either. Both those mammals were introduced to Iceland several hundred years ago (horses around 1000, caribou around 1800) and the only mammal technically native to Iceland is the arctic fox... which probably migrated over via icebergs like the occasional polar bear does. The polar bears get shot though!

-Dr. Wu
 
Last edited:
SK, Gris, Tony: Thanks for the compliments and whatnot. I'm looking forward to taking another trip to Iceland next spring. This time I want to do a long hiking trip (through Skógafoss, Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar) rather than tour the Island.

Let me tell you though, it was nice to come back to the North East. The last time I hiked (Mid May) in The Whites, everything was brown and still had snow. I felt like I landed on a different planet on Sunday while driving through the Whites, green as far as the eye could see, cloaked in a sea of fog. And then the lush forrest with thick underbrush during the hike. And of course the boulder fields on The Rock Pile's Ridge -- no more nasty little volcanic rocks like in Iceland!

-Dr. Wu
 
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