4 days in Great Gulf and Northern Pressies 7/5-7/8/09

[TDawg]

Finally found some time to write up my last good trip. I had never been in the Gulf before, and it was about time, what a gorgeous area. I also revisited 3 summits which I haven’t been up since I started hiking the Whites when I was a young teenager, my first 3 NH 4ks. We had a fantastic time over our four days "in" the mountains.

Day 1

My sister and her boyfriend, Dustin, met me at Pinkham where we spotted their car for possible options on day 4. In the back of my mind I had Mt. Washington via Great Gulf with a descent down Nelson Crag for the last day. Started out at the GG TH at about 12:30 under beautiful sunny skies. The GG trail is quite lovely as it hugs the Peabody River West Branch for most of its length, ltos of nice cascades. We took a break at The Bluff for snacks and took in the views there. We could look up towards Washington and see cars on the auto road above at the halfway turn. The crossing of Parapet Brook was a non-issue so it was smooth sailing. We passed a group of kids at Clam Rock and we would stay ahead of them at all costs in order to secure our site higher up in the Gulf. We gained elevation and got better and better looks up to the ridges above us on both sides. We reached the site and put our stuff down to secure a couple flat spots, soon the group of 8 showed up and set up in an overflow area with one tent sharing our site. They were headed up Washington the next day so we would end up having the place to ourselves. We cooked dinner and spent the night hangin out by the river, snackin, and sipping on 3 beers apiece we had hiked in, saving the last 3 for after our next days hike. A bit of a downer as I turned into bed, my thermarest somehow received a gaping rip in it. I would be sleeping on a flat pad for the next 3 nights. Good thing I had a few unisom in the first aid kit!

Day 2

Woke up Monday morning and cooked a breakfast of oatmeal, natures valley bars, and toasted bagels with spray butter and peanut butter, mmmm. Packed snacks and lunchs, hung food, stowed up our camp and were off around 9. Out of the 2 middle hiking days of the trip, Monday was it for above treeline travel so we made a fantastic loop up Six Husbands Tr. to Jefferson, Gulfside over to Adams, them up and back to Madison, back to camp via Buttress Tr.

The Six Husbands trail started off interesting with a tricky crossing over the higher than average West Branch Peabody River. Dustin and I crossed with dry feet, lil sis Kristen waded barefoot, her legs too short for the crucial rock hop. Six Husbands trail was awesome and lived up to its rep. Steep climbing, ladders, huge boulders forming caves, breathtaking views, just a sick trail. And crossing the flat area above Jefferson’s knee to the Jeff summit cone is a great stroll after an unrelenting climb.



Jefferson summit was sweet because there was literally no wind, not a breeze and we had it to ourselves for 30 minutes. We headed on down the Loop Tr. to Gulfside on down to Edmands Col where we had lunch. The Gulfside out of the col is an awesome stretch and I loved the look down into Castle Ravine, as well as the boggy wet area below Sam Adams.




We reached the Adams summit via Lowes Path, where there was again, very little if any wind. As a result, the weird Mt. Adams bugs I remembered from years ago were out, but not biting just annoying.



Took Airline down and as I was descending I started looking at JQ Adams and thinkin, “now that doesn’t look too bad.” So I picked a route through the boulder fields and rockhopped on up where I was treated with a lofty perch high above Star Lake and the Adams summit towering above me. I would have like to stay longer but just minutes after I reached the JQ summit….A rumble of thunder.

Now nothing picks up my pace above treeline like a rumble of thunder, not Red Bull, not a GU shot, nothing. I rockhopped faster than I ever have off JQ back to the Gulfside at the Airline junction where we regrouped, then high tailed it to Madison Hut amongst more thunder. Thankfully, there was no lightning involved and only light, light rain. Upon reaching Madison Hut, we filled up water and snacked up in dry shelter while the heavier rain and thunder passed. We waited for a good 40 minutes holding out that we would get a break, and a perfect break we got.

The rain stopped to we started up Madison via Osgood Tr. Halfway up the summit cone, the sun came out and we were all elated that we had stuck it out waiting in the hut. At Madison summit we chatted with a few thru-hikers about the hardships paying for or trying to work off hut stays in the Whites. I could only agree with them the prices are steep, even more so on a thru-hiker budget. The sun stayed out for our summit stay and the descent, best part of the day. Passed right on by the hut and up Star Lake trail, checked out the large quartz outcrop near Star Lake, and took my favorite pic of the trip. Madison’s reflection in Star Lake…



Now Buttress trail is a very nice trail in its own right. Starts off just above treeline near Star Lake and immediately you see how little used it is. The trailbed you’re walking on is grass, and pretty darn green too. Soon you dip into low scrub and then taller before you climb up thru large boulders and descend over a few tricky areas including a steep little chute next to a nice rock perch looking into Madison Gulf. Views continued to be great up to the Madison summit and looking across to Osgood ridge. Soon the trail turns the corner around Adams and it started to rain a lil bit. The trail corridor is pretty nil in spots so staying dry was impossible with all the wet branches. The one pain in the ass blowdown of the day was also in this stretch. It rained until just before crossing the large talus field near the Six Husbands/Buttress junction. I waited here for Kristen and Dustin as the sun was fighting through the clouds above Jefferson Ravine. It then appeared as a small sunshower came through and formed a gorgeous rainbow in the Great Gulf, just awesome.



Other than spotting the red blaze at the start of the former Adams Slide trail, the short hike back to camp was pretty standard. We arrived pretty beat and immediately started cooking up food, I went and fetched the 3 remaining beers and nalgene bottle of Manhattan, for medicinal purposes only. The beers and spirits never taste as good as they do when you’re camping after a long hike, and you lugged them to where you are. None of us made it too long after sundown and stuffing our faces. That night is rained, I was nervous going to sleep because there was a small pond growing where I was set up. But the tent footprint did its job and I slept like a baby.

Continued.....

 

[TDawg]

Day 3



Tuesday we expected rain starting after 1 so our plans were scaled down a bit. We slept in till about 9, took our time, and had breakfast and coffee in damp cool conditions. Kristen, immediately upon waking stated this would be a “zero day,” for her so after breakfast Dustin and I decided on just trekkin on up into the upper reaches of the Gulf above Spaulding “Lake.” The upper GGT passes many fine cascades and falls en route to Spaulding Lake high in the Gulf. The trail was super wet, slippery, and muddy in spots. Particularly wet around the crossings near Sphinx Trail and just after Spaulding Lake. The trail after Spaulding is kinda grown in among the dwarf yellow birch, mountain ash, spruce and balsam, but it was perfect for the setting. It’s such a cool spot up there, we hiked to a spot a couple hundred feet above Spaulding Lake where we could get a view of above and below. The upper headwall was socked in above us but we had a view of most of the headwall, including some of the GG ski lines like Pipeline off Clay, pretty impressive.




While hanging out, the clouds broke enough for the Jefferson summit to appear. Tough to leave such a great spot, but we wanted to beat the rain so back down we flew, seemingly meer minutes back to camp at about 2:30. We were able to get a warm lunch in before it started to rain at about 4. So in my sister’s Hubba Hubba we went for some Rummy, drinks, and music from my iTouch. We were able to pass the time till it was time for dinner in the form of 3 Mountain House bags cooked to perfection under the tent’s vestibule. We all agreed it woulda been nice to have the “Motha Hubba” (MSRs 3 man) in the event of rain. The rain stopped enough for us to get out the tents and stretch out for a couple hours before it was time for bed.

Day 4

So the plan for Wednesday, weather depending was a possible Clay/Washington trip w/ full packs up Sphinx down Nelson Crag to Pinkhan. This would not be, at my 5am alarm it was pouring so I went back to sleep till 7. It stopped raining for us to have breakfast and coffee, pack up, and weigh our options. Everything was completely socked in, we were wet, and rain was in the forecast so it was an easy decision to say “F it” and head out. We did take a different trail out, hangin a right onto Madison Gulf Tr. (AT) then Old Jackson Road to Pinkham Notch. Soon after setting out the rain started and we were glad we were making the right move packin it in. Madison Gulf trail was the muddiest trail I’ve had the pleasure (?) of hiking in a long time. AT traffic had beaten it to hell in the rainy June we had.

Despite a bit of rain and that we didn't get to go up Clay and Washington it was a great trip. Six Husbands/Gulfside/Buttress loop was a very beautiful, challenging route. Very recommended. Nice to revisit a few peaks again, explore new terrain, and get some camping done. Fun times!

All 167 pictures are here

 

[1HappyHiker]

It’s obvious from the “sparkle” in your narrative that you had a spectacular trip! I was about to say “job well done”, but the word “job” sounds too much like “work”. And this was definitely not “work” for you . . . it was pure & simple FUN!

A very enjoyable & interesting report!

 

[grouseking]

I don't often see shots along the upper reaches of the Great Gulf tr, or the Six Husbands. They were nice to see! That is a lot of water flowing down the rivers, especially for July. It almost looks like an April or May flow.

grouseking

 

[TDawg]

It’s obvious from the “sparkle” in your narrative that you had a spectacular trip! I was about to say “job well done”, but the word “job” sounds too much like “work”. And this was definitely not “work” for you . . . it was pure & simple FUN!

A very enjoyable & interesting report!

Thank you. And you're right, not work but fun.

Funny, I led a group of old-friends up Mt. Willard this past Saturday. (I had never climbed Willard) A couple of them were "non-hiker types" and were seeing that mere 1.5 mile 900 foot climb as definite work. After the fact, one told me via facebook she "hated me for a minute" while hiking up, but then was all smiles at the view of Crawford Notch.

Man, I felt like I could walk up Willard backwards with a full pack after truckin' around the Great Gulf and Presidential Range for a few days.

I don't often see shots along the upper reaches of the Great Gulf tr, or the Six Husbands. They were nice to see! That is a lot of water flowing down the rivers, especially for July. It almost looks like an April or May flow.

grouseking

Thanks, neither had I really, so a lot of the trip was truly brand new to my eyes. Not many people use the Buttress Tr. I think, so it was nice to get on that one too.

We commented throughout the trip on how much water was flowing down the West Branch of the Peabody, even up high between Spaulding Lake and the Sphinx Tr. junction. I think it must usually have a pretty good flow, it draining the entire Gulf. Fast-rising too probably in the event of heavy rain.

 

[forestgnome]

Wow! Nice!