Accident report worth reading (Ice Axe Usage)

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giggy

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Posting this because I hear people all the time on this site saying an ice axe is overkill in the northeast. That topic can be debated till death, but here is an accident from a couple weeks ago that is worth reading IMO.

"""
3-31-2007: A climber injured his leg after falling down Tuckerman Ravine. He was with two friends and the three of them climbed Central Gully, hiked across the Alpine Garden and began descending into Tuckerman Ravine at dark. He was wearing crampons at the time of the fall but his ice axe was secured to his pack. He said he was not using it because by the time he realized he needed it, the terrain was too steep to take his pack off. During the descent, he lost his footing and fell between 400 and 600 feet to the floor of the Ravine, injuring his leg during the fall. One friend went to Hermit Lake to get help while the other assisted his friend to the rescue cache near the bottom of the Ravine. Snow Rangers, personnel from the Mount Washington Volunteer Ski Patrol and the AMC and overnight guests staying at Hermit Lake responded to help the patient. The patient's leg was splinted and he was carried down to Hermit Lake which involved one 300' rope lower. At Hermit Lake, the patient was reassessed and then transported to Pinkham Notch via snowmobile. This incident took 15 people 3.5 hours to complete.

If this person had their ice axe out during the fall he could have arrested himself and prevented this accident. We often see people descending Tuckerman Ravine in icy conditions without the proper equipment, particularly in the spring. An ice axe and the ability to use it properly are critical for safe travel in steep terrain. The combination of the axe and the experience and knowledge of its use provide a reliable means of stopping yourself on steep snow in the event of a fall.
 
I don't think I've heard too many folks say that ice axes aren't needed or useful when going up or down the ravines in winter. Anyplace where you can fall 400-600 feet on snow and ice is a good place for an axe.
 
Overkill?

Nonsense.

Yeah, I read that a couple days ago. I don't think people here are necessarily anti ice axe, I just think that most people don't realize how hand in hand ice axes and crampons go - you can have your axe out and not wear crampons... but I wouldn't wear crampons without an ice axe.

Kids, don't jump with crampons on.
 
Good info, plus an axe makes me LOOK GOOD, yeah baby, yeah !

There's a video being broadcast on our local access channel of 2 guys hiking up Marcy this winter admitting they'd never used an ice axe before. They had crampons, which would have been enough. Hiking UP, the one guy was holding the straight shaft axe by the bottom above the spike and swinging it forward and using it to pull up, semi-ice climbing style on a basic walk-up. Maybe they were just fooling around for the camera, but it was a bit scary. I'm pretty sure they were not aware of self arrest techniques, which they may have actually needed that day.

I'm happy this guy survived.
 
I hate doing this... hindsight is 20-20 right?

Two ways to avoid this accident:

A.) Have one of your climbing partners unsecure your axe for you.

B.) Take Lion's Head trail down, especially if you'll be descending after dark.

It sucks when someone gets hurt while climbing, but it just goes to show that when you are climbing in an alpine zone, you always need to respect the mountain and adhere to the proper precautions.
 
David Metsky said:
I don't think I've heard too many folks say that ice axes aren't needed or useful when going up or down the ravines in winter.


actually - your right, I used a poor choice of words - I should have said - "occasionally" rather than "all the time". my bad!!

:cool: :D

obscure metal reference - overkill is a proud member of "20+ years of metal" and not one ballad! and they do have the ultimate metal anthem

great pic doug!!
 
Last edited:
A common generic scenario: the victim goes into terrain where he needs some piece of gear, but the location is too precarious to get it out and/or put it on/in use.

Typical examples: rope, ice axe, crampons...

Witnessed example:
I watched a guy break his ankle from my vantage point half-way up an ice climb in Huntington Ravine. He was barebooting in to do an ice climb when he slipped while trying to reach a rock where he could put his crampons on. He slid into a lower rock and broke his lower leg or ankle.

Basic cures: think ahead and, if need be, retreat to a place where you can safely deploy the needed gear.

Doug
 
giggy said:
obscure metal reference - overkill is a proud member of "20+ years of metal" and not one ballad! and they do have the ultimate metal anthem

great pic doug!!
Lol. We called the bassist/singer from this band I was in college "The Librarian of Metal". I learned a lot of obscure metal from him and the guitarist...

albee said:
I hate doing this... hindsight is 20-20 right?

Two ways to avoid this accident:

A.) Have one of your climbing partners unsecure your axe for you.

B.) Take Lion's Head trail down, especially if you'll be descending after dark.
I think the best way to avoid this accident would've been to take a class and research the area better before getting out - down climbing the headwall with crampons and no ice axe out... in the dark?
I can imagine these guys underestimated the mileage/terrain, overestimated their technical skills, yahoo'ed their way up Central, and figured the long and steep slope was the quickest way down.

DougPaul said:
A common generic scenario: the victim goes into terrain where he needs some piece of gear, but the location is too precarious to get it out and/or put it on/in use.
Good point. Sometimes it's very hard to get a good stance and sometimes the right gear can help - some packs allow you to remove your ice axe while wearing it:

Dakine Poacher
Wild Things Andinista

I usually like to stash my mountaineering axe between my pack/back until I'm certain I won't need it.

Anyway, the important thing is that they lived to learn from it.
 
I injured my ankle last year because I didn't feel like taking my ice axe off my pack...

We only do it once, then we learn. I got lucky, some others will not. This is what I call fatality. What is the point for a thread like this again ? Can we really educate hikers through a internet forum ? I don't think so, I say we let people get out there and kill themselves, so we can have fun here, bashing on the "unexperienced hikers".

I might die tomorrow on one of the Presidental, if it does happen, please don't be gentle with me, I am just a french canadian newbie after all.

:p
 
timmus said:
I injured my ankle last year because I didn't feel like taking my ice axe off my pack...

We only do it once, then we learn. I got lucky, some others will not. This is what I call fatality. What is the point for a thread like this again ? Can we really educate hikers through a internet forum ? I don't think so, I say we let people get out there and kill themselves, so we can have fun here, bashing on the "unexperienced hikers".

I might die tomorrow on one of the Presidental, if it does happen, please don't be gentle with me, I am just a french canadian newbie after all.

:p


Hell yeah.... :D
 
timmus said:
I injured my ankle last year because I didn't feel like taking my ice axe off my pack...
Well maybe if you read a thread like this first... ;)

timmus said:
Can we really educate hikers through a internet forum ?
I've learned alot here. Maybe not specific techniques that need to be practiced, but certainly general items like where, when, with what and why.
 
DougPaul said:
A common generic scenario: the victim goes into terrain where he needs some piece of gear, but the location is too precarious to get it out and/or put it on/in use.

Typical examples: rope, ice axe, crampons...

Witnessed example:
I watched a guy break his ankle from my vantage point half-way up an ice climb in Huntington Ravine. He was barebooting in to do an ice climb when he slipped while trying to reach a rock where he could put his crampons on. He slid into a lower rock and broke his lower leg or ankle.

Basic cures: think ahead and, if need be, retreat to a place where you can safely deploy the needed gear.

Doug

Great points - put stuff on before you need to - this type of thing (not having the right gear out of my pack - not the breaking my leg) happened to me on East Osceola. From that day on, I have put gear on, whether crampons or a rain jacket before you wish you had - it is not that big of a deal...
 
cbcbd said:
I just think that most people don't realize how hand in hand ice axes and crampons go - you can have your axe out and not wear crampons... but I wouldn't wear crampons without an ice axe.

Interesting. Are you saying that are never situations in which crampons w/o axe would be appropriate? Because myself and many others I know have used crampons many times w/o axes, usually due to short water ice sections of trail, or because of hard, icy/slippery snow. Do you think going axeless in these situations is dangerous? I'm not talking ravine headwalls here, just typical trails.

Matt
 
mcorsar said:
Interesting. Are you saying that are never situations in which crampons w/o axe would be appropriate? Because myself and many others I know have used crampons many times w/o axes, usually due to short water ice sections of trail, or because of hard, icy/slippery snow. Do you think going axeless in these situations is dangerous? I'm not talking ravine headwalls here, just typical trails.

Matt
I'm talking mostly about mountaineering/alpine situations like the accident giggy brought up.

Crampon/axe use everywhere else is really up to the comfort level of the hiker and the trail they're on.

ie. I would say it's ok to leave the axe on the pack if you are
walking on the Pinkham parking lot :rolleyes: :D :confused:
 
mcorsar said:
Interesting. Are you saying that are never situations in which crampons w/o axe would be appropriate? Because myself and many others I know have used crampons many times w/o axes, usually due to short water ice sections of trail, or because of hard, icy/slippery snow. Do you think going axeless in these situations is dangerous? I'm not talking ravine headwalls here, just typical trails.

Matt

If it's a spot where you're wearing the crampons because a fall downslope would injure you or someone below you, an ice axe is needed. People fall wearing crampons, for all kinds of reasons.

If it's a spot where you're wearing crampons because it's icy but not slanted enough to harm you or someone else, then no.
 
DougPaul said:
A common generic scenario: the victim goes into terrain where he needs some piece of gear, but the location is too precarious to get it out and/or put it on/in use.
cbcbd said:
Good point. Sometimes it's very hard to get a good stance and sometimes the right gear can help - some packs allow you to remove your ice axe while wearing it:

Dakine Poacher
Wild Things Andinista

I usually like to stash my mountaineering axe between my pack/back until I'm certain I won't need it.
I am able to carry my axe in this way* with all my non-frame packs. One doesn't generally need any special features for it.

Anyway, the important thing is that they lived to learn from it.
Well, they lived. Hopefully they (and others) will learn...

* For those who may not be familiar with this axe carry: It is a standard method, comfortable, secure, and the axe can be stowed and retreived without taking one's pack off. To stow (your pack is already on): insert shaft downward between your back and the pack (behind one's neck) with the shaft between the shoulder straps. Aim the shaft diagonally down toward one's side. The pick points toward the "downward side". To remove: simply slide axe upward. Also, it is a good idea to remove the axe before removing the pack (or the axe falls out). Illustrated in FOTH, 7ed, pg 318, fig 16-13c.

Doug
 
sardog1 said:
If it's a spot where you're wearing the crampons because a fall downslope would injure you or someone below you, an ice axe is needed. People fall wearing crampons, for all kinds of reasons.

If it's a spot where you're wearing crampons because it's icy but not slanted enough to harm you or someone else, then no.
I'd like to add that an ice axe is a tool with 3 sharp points--people have been injured by them. (And if you are in a place where you really need the axe, you really want the points to be sharp.) A certain amount of skill and technique can reduce the danger from the points.

A beginner on non-dangerous terrain may be better off with ski poles. Experienced people also often prefer ski poles on easy terrain. (I sometimes carry both an axe and poles and use whichever is more appropriate for the immediate terrain.)

Doug
 
DougPaul said:
* For those who may not be familiar with this axe carry: It is a standard method, comfortable, secure, and the axe can be stowed and retreived without taking one's pack off. To stow (your pack is already on): insert shaft downward between your back and the pack (behind one's neck) with the shaft between the shoulder straps. Aim the shaft diagonally down toward one's side. The pick points toward the "downward side". To remove: simply slide axe upward. Also, it is a good idea to remove the axe before removing the pack (or the axe falls out). Illustrated in FOTH, 7ed, pg 318, fig 16-13c.

Doug
Yep, that's the ticket.
And don't forget... when you store it this way it looks very bada** as you unsheath your ice axe from your back :D
 
cbcbd said:
I'm talking mostly about mountaineering/alpine situations like the accident giggy brought up.

Crampon/axe use everywhere else is really up to the comfort level of the hiker and the trail they're on.

ie. I would say it's ok to leave the axe on the pack if you are
walking on the Pinkham parking lot :rolleyes: :D :confused:

God I love that pic.

-percious
 
giggy said:
Posting this because I hear people all the time on this site saying an ice axe is overkill in the northeast.
Note that these people were technical climbing on snow/ice routes, surely an ice ax or two is suggested there?

Winter hiking can turn into semi-technical climbing above treeline or on slides/rock slabs, etc. in which case hikers may desire climbing equipment.

The typical hiker who waves around an ice ax below treeline is just endangering himself and others, unless you know how to carry it properly it is safer to leave it home.
 

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