AT bindings: screwed and glued ?

[Chip]

I'm about to mount AT bindings and have read 3 different opinions on glue - none, elmers & epoxy. If I hadn't read anything I would have used a drop of epoxy. I'd prefer not to use any as this is probably not the final configuration for these skis. The skis are "air channel wood core". Any specific info would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Rick]

Chip,
I fill the holes with Elmers and haven't had any problems. Wouldn't Epoxy cause the screws to be too difficult to remove if you ever wanted to change up bindings?

P.S. I have filled old no-longer-used-screw-holes with epoxy.
Rick

 

[Quietman]

Elmers is not water resistant, so I'm not sure it would help at all. I have only used small drops of Gorilla Glue on alpine skis and have not had to try any remounts yet.

 

[Rick]

Elmers is not water resistant, so I'm not sure it would help at all.

I agree, but when I worked for an outfitter, we used to mount all the XC bindings every fall for the new skis and Elmer's Wood was always used with no issues.
I ended up using Elmer's on mine and I always had visions of water getting in, destroying the glue, causing the screws to tear out on a turn. however, when I changed out my 3 pins and NNN's to put on some news skis after about 4-5 years on each, the glue was as strong as could be, so I have continued to use it.

 

[Quietman]

Ahhhh.... Elmers WOOD. Stupid me, I was thinking that you were talking about regular white elmers that kids use. Should have known better!

 

[DougPaul]

The instructions for my tele bindings said to use epoxy. But not all epoxies are alike--use the 2hr curing waterproof stuff. Not only is it waterproof, but it is supposed to release when heated.

(One of the salesmen in the hardware store said that he used the same epoxy on his fishing rods for the same reason.)

I haven't tried to pull any of my bindings yet so I haven't tested the "release when heated" feature, but none of my [ski] screws have come loose.

Doug

 

[Chip]

I've seen the "release with heat" thing. How would you do that, with a soldering iron on the screw head ? I guess epoxy is not to be used with foam cores.
Regarding Elmers; apparently since it losses moisture to harden and shrinks, it's not as good at sealing the holes. Then there's the no glue approach...
I may have a local shop mount them since I have some other gear that needs to be tuned and adjusted. I'd like a relationship with a local shop anyway.

 

[alpinista]

For those of us who routinely use the Big Dig tunnels in Boston ... can epoxy really be all that trustworthy???

 

[paul ron]

I guess things have changed over the years. Back in the 60s n 70s when I worked in a ski shop we filled holes with melted P-Tec, the same stuff the bottom of the skis are filled with, generally the same color of the ski. It's waterproof and can be reused later if you should choose. Taking out screws later can be done by heating the screws. You must pilot the holes with the proper drill size for the screw or you'll have serious problems, pulling out, or cracking the ski core.

 

[DougPaul]

I've seen the "release with heat" thing. How would you do that, with a soldering iron on the screw head ? I guess epoxy is not to be used with foam cores.

Perhaps by heating the screwdriver and holding it into the screw head. A soldering iron on the screw head might also work, but there might be a greater risk of overheating and damaging the ski.

If you are not aware of it, Tele and 3-pin use a Pozidrive head (AT might also): http://www.akers-ski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3731&Category_Code=
Also found on the Binding Buddy: http://www.rei.com/online/store/Pro...32&parent_category_rn=4501576&vcat=REI_SEARCH
(I suspect the screwdriver is better for heating a screw.)

I have read that some foam cores have a problem with epoxy. If you turn the ski upside down while the glue is hardening, it will tend to stay near the screw head rather than wandering around in the innards of the ski.

Regarding Elmers; apparently since it losses moisture to harden and shrinks, it's not as good at sealing the holes. Then there's the no glue approach...

Sounds good to me if you don't mind your bindings falling off or your skis sloshing...

I may have a local shop mount them since I have some other gear that needs to be tuned and adjusted. I'd like a relationship with a local shop anyway.

You might ask first--they may do the same as you would at a higher price. They might also be willing to recommend/sell you some glue. I've been mounting all my own Tele bindings. No problems so far. (Keeping my fingers crossed, etc.)

A tip: put a piece of wide masking tape on top of the ski. Do all your drafting etc for hole placement on the tape and drill only when you are satisfied. If you don't like the placement, pull the tape and put a fresh piece on. And put a depth limiter on the drill bit...

FWIW, I prefer to do things that are reversable. (Or at least that I am told are reversable...) Thus I would stay away from glues like Gorilla (polyurethane glue?) because it is not likely to be removable.

Doug

 

[Woody]

I used elmers glue when I mounted my tele bindings last year. I have only used them about a half a dozen times so far but they seem to be fine.

 

[Chip]

A tip: put a piece of wide masking tape on top of the ski. Do all your drafting etc for hole placement on the tape and drill only when you are satisfied. If you don't like the placement, pull the tape and put a fresh piece on. And put a depth limiter on the drill bit...
Doug

That's a good suggestion. I'm just enough of a "man" to skip a sensible step like that and really mess things up !

So: No votes for "nothing", 1 for Ptex, a couple for elmers wood and a couple for epoxy. At least this confirms the on-line info I got. Thanks for the input.

 

[Rick]

....And put a depth limiter on the drill bit...

Doug

I remember our first binding party, we were asked to bring more than one drill if we had them, I showed up with my little 1/4 horse craftsman and also my Machine gun-like Bosch Hammer Drill - What a reception I got. It was obvious who the MAN was that night.

I still remember plugging in the hammer drill, pulling the trigger (a little drill revving never hurts your masculine image at these functions) and all the lights dimmed..... "Now go get your @##$#% Shine, er Wax Box!!!

 

[DougPaul]

There are some good comments on glues and foam cores at http://www.telemarktips.com/BindingMount.html. See the Notes section.

Doug