Best of the West

[Steve-o]

I know many of you have been backpacking out west.
I have a rare opportunity to do about a weeks worth of backpacking the last week of july.
I am leaning towards the northwest. Washington,Idaho,Montana,Wyoming,Colorado, ect.
I'm looking for somewhere somewhat remote, out of dayhiker range, to set up a basecamp and do day hikes from there.
any ideas?

Thanks, Stev-o

 

[sierra]

Hey I live in Colorado and also climb alot in the Sierra's, but when you said you wanted to get away from dayhikers, Im sorry to say that rules out the above places I mentioned. I hear second hand that the Wind River range is a quiet place and easy to find solotude in. I have no firsthand experience though maybe others might. If you change your mind, Ill help with CO or CA, I still think there the best mountains in the country. Good luck.
P.S. remember north of CO its not only remote, Grizzleys also hike up there.

 

[RGF1]

There are a lot of places to hike out west I could probably give a huge list. You mention wanting to be out of day hiker range, That is easy to do in the west simply because of the lower population. And further distances from major population areas to trailheads and other hiking areas. One thing I have found is that once you get about 4 or more miles out you see less people there are a popular day hikes that are fairly easy. Unlike in he east many of the high peaks do not have marked trails or routes. And require a good amount of rout finding and climbing skills not to mention being comfortable with exposure. One good way to have some solitude and climbs some spectacular peaks is to go mid week. . If you are in Colorado most of the San Juans are remote some require 4x4 to get to the trail head,
Chicago Basin near Durango requires both a train ride in and a 8 mile hike if I recall correctly there are 3 14 K peaks that are not at all easy people do set up base camps in there . The weather can be very unpredictable it can be nice in the early AM and violent thunderstorms with deadly lightning in the after noon often before 11 am . The Elk Range is near Aspen but only a few trails are heavily used. Unless you are a skilled climber it is not a good idea to try the14 k peaks such as Capitol Peak, the Maroon Bells or Pyramid Peak, in I will be there in June I climb them frequently and once I am away from the easy trails there are less people. Once gain hiking mid week will give you more solitude Aspen Is 3 hours from Denver, Durango is about 5 – 6 hrs from Denver. The San Juans would be a good choice for solitude in CO but the peaks can be difficult. Some ar not so bad San Luis and Redcould are reasonably easy.
In WY
The Wind River area is remote not very heavily used except in their idea the routes to Gannett peak. But chances are you will be either alone or with only a few others. Almost all the Wind Rivers are technical climbs or at minimum class 3 + climbs most bring a ice axe crampons, rope and protection, a extra tool or even more, the weather can also be come deadly in the after noon. . also the mosquitoes are unbelievable makes our black flies seem like minor pests .
The Tetons are in places heavily used but once again once you get a few miles out you will see less peole and more grizzlies.

An area often overlooked is New Mexico. The Sangre De Cristos have a lot of great hiking are not heavily iused once you get w few miles in and have amazing vies of desert and mountains. It is really a different experience to go from high dessert to lush mountain forest and tundra. Try Truchas Peaks for solitude.
One thing to keep in mind is that un like the east trail heads are not as well marked trails usually do not have names some have a number there are usually not shelters or tent sites there are some USFS or NPS sites in select places. Alse you are up above 8,000 – 10,000 ft in a drier area so altitude and dehydration and sunburn become factor major factors .
Also there is not a AMC or ADK with huts, lodges trail crews and all the things they offer out there. The 10th Mt huts require reservation and do not have caretakers. Also your GPS might not work in narrow valleys or canyons and cell phones can be useless unless you are near a town or up very high.
Best of luck and enjoy the mountain west it is very different from the east.

 

[sardog1]

Do not go to the Wind River Range. It might spoil you for virtually any other backpacking experience.

Or you could just move now to Lander or Pinedale, and be done with it.

 

[Jasonst]

2 thumbs up for the San Juans. That area of CO is amazing. I would try out the aforementioned route via train (I believe out of Durango towards Silverton) Very remote, very quiet... Again, it may spoil your backpacking around here for a while...

 

[professor]

I second the choice of the Wind Rivers. The last time I went there, I backpacked into the Cirque of the Towers as a base for class 3 climbing. I was forewarned about the terrible crowds there. Well, I was there mid-August, on a weekend in perfect weather, and I saw may 2 or 3 other parties in the cirque (and the cirque is huge - I never actually saw anyone from my tentsite), and didn't pass any hikers on the way in or out. Maybe I just got lucky? Very long, brutal dirt roads to get to trailheads, however. Not "4-wheel", but you'd better have a good suspension, or drive VERY slowly. Another often overlooked backpackers' paradise is good old Yellowstone. While many bemoan the Yellowstone crowds, I would guess that fewer than 1% of the people who visit the park ever stray more than a quarter mile from their cars. Its got everything - alpine terrain (not the Tetons, but nowhere near as crowded in the backcountry as the Tetons), wild backcountry thermal features which are fun to explore, beautiful mountain meadows, wild rivers, etc.

 

[Gris]

Try Truchas Peaks for solitude

A second for Truchas - simply Beautiful country!!!

 

[chomp]

Third vote for the Wind River Range. Get a shuttle and go from Green River Lakes to Big Sandy. Make sure that you don't miss Cirque of the Towers. Pics:

http://gallery.backcountry.net/chompwindriver

 

[bobmak]

Wind River Range... nicest place I have been so far. I backpacked out of Pinedale for about 10 days... no climbing, just hitting the trails. I think I saw one group of horse packers heading out to a pond to go fishing, and maybe 3 other groups of backpackers in various locations; this is over the entire 10 day stretch. If you want real solitude, try following a game path down to one of the many ponds in the area; make sure you are up on your compass skills first. I found the main trails to be well marked but the side trails were not maintained. I have found in general that in the west people assume you know what you are doing in the back country, so things are not as well marked as here.

Be prepared to take precautions with your food & cooking regarding bears. While I personally did not meet any I did see more than a healthy supply of bear scat around. Also, be aware of the weather; in both locations afternoon violent t-storms are frequent. It's best to get your hiking in early and be off the ridges by mid afternoon. Just one mans opinion.....

Pinedale is a great town; if you want the name of a good B&B let me know, I'll post it.

A second choice would be the Pecos Wilderness in New Mexico; 7 days there and saw just one other person. It's a mix of high plains and some very picturesque and hikeable summits.

 

[Steve-o]

Wind River Range it is.
Thanks for the input and sorry it took 5 years to get back to you.
I ended up doing a few 14'ers in Colorado but, now heading to the Wind's.

Plan on hitting Gannett from Dubois on the glacier Tr. Does anyone have something they would like to add, besides how much the mosquito's suck ?

Thanks, Steve-o

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Wind River Range it is.
Thanks for the input and sorry it took 5 years to get back to you.
I ended up doing a few 14'ers in Colorado but, now heading to the Wind's.

Plan on hitting Gannett from Dubois on the glacier Tr. Does anyone have something they would like to add, besides how much the mosquito's suck ?

Thanks, Steve-o

I recommend Gannett from the west instead of the east, so the approach from Pinedale to Titcomb Basin and over Dinwoodie Pass; plan 3-4 days minimum. Titcomb Basin is one the most spectacular places on the planet, imho. Bring a head net for the mosquitos in case there is not enough breeze to keep them at bay. If you can afford an extra half day in Titcomb, you can scramble Fremont Peak, Wyoming's third highest. If you have time, there is also a fantastic 2-3 day circumnavigation around the Tetons, a couple hours north of Pineade: up Cascade Canyon, hang a left to the south and out Death Canyon, which allows views for the Grand from every direction.

 

[halfmoon]

Chicago Basin near Durango...

I agree with this one, I did a nice 7 day loop using the train for access. You can look at my trip report at the link below.

http://www.pbase.com/pudgy_groundhog/weminuche

 

[Jay H]

I recommend Gannett from the west instead of the east, so the approach from Pinedale to Titcomb Basin and over Dinwoodie Pass; plan 3-4 days minimum. Titcomb Basin is one the most spectacular places on the planet, imho. Bring a head net for the mosquitos in case there is not enough breeze to keep them at bay. If you can afford an extra half day in Titcomb, you can scramble Fremont Peak, Wyoming's third highest. If you have time, there is also a fantastic 2-3 day circumnavigation around the Tetons, a couple hours north of Pineade: up Cascade Canyon, hang a left to the south and out Death Canyon, which allows views for the Grand from every direction.

Tmax, me, and a non-VFTT friend did Gannett from the east via the Glacier, I would think that any approach would be fabulous, maybe Steve-O and the gang should just do a traverse, spot cars and go in one way and out the next. Probably go in via Pinedale and go out via Dubois just by the camping logistics. One helluva drive for a car spot though.

Jay

 

[timmus]

Southwest couloir was a blast for us, but I think you'll have a more direct approach via the normal route (Gooseneck Pinnacle), coming from the east.

Too bad you'll miss the Wind River Brewing Pub in Pinedale !! (http://www.windriverbrewingco.com/splash.html)

Have a great trip guys, I wish you the best conditions.

 

[sardog1]

%$^& you, Stev-o. Just when I thought the embers of my love for the Winds had died, you fanned them again today.

Have a great trip . . . and don't show yourself around here again unless you bring a TR and pictures.

 

[TEO]

Northern Cascades. I'm just sayin'...

 

[Chugach001]

Wind Rivers. Bring a fly rod.

 

[Steve-o]

As of now, we plan on hitting Gannett from Dubois. I don't know anyone who has done both approaches but, from what I gather, the scenery will be spectacular no matter how you slice it. opting for the longer approach with the shorter summit day for now. That could change though. Much rain/snow in the last couple weeks could make river crossings a challenge. Won't really know until we get there.
On the plus side, we are just out to have fun. Plenty of time and nothing is set in stone. Totally depends on weather and conditions.
Tetons, Yellowstone, certainly no shortage of things to do in this area.
Rock climbing and rafting could certainly be on the menu too.
There is also a chance that we could meet up with Mats, for his 5th attempt at Granite peak in Montana. Shake & Bake !
I'm not good at trip reports but, I'm sure someone else in the group will do it.
Also, pretty sure we will hit some kind of brewery or drinking establishment before it's over !

 

[Chugach001]

Well if you are climbing, there is just crazy amounts of great alpine rock routes.

 

[Stan]

After considerable hiking, but not backpacking, out West I concluded that it is impossible to pick ONE best so, instead, I tried picking seasonal bests ... this wasn't easy either so I'm working on a monthly "best", a grid if you will.