Neil
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- Apr 26, 2004
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It was very quiet in the woods yesterday. Very, very quiet. The sky was leaden, the animals were all gone, there was no wind and I was the only living soul around.
Twice I’ve been up the Boquet to the Great Slide and on both occasions I wound up doing some unplanned bushwhacking. This time, I was going to figure it out once and for all and do a little recon for an upcoming winter hike. Nothing like mixing business with pleasure so I thought I’d traverse from Grace to Spotted Mtn. and Elizabethtown #4.
As I approached the little pullout on the 73 just north of where the 9 intersects I couldn’t help but notice that the water was deep and flowing swiftly in the rivers. The herd trail that leads to the Dix Cirque crosses the North Fork of the Boquet twice. The first crossing is situated within 10 minutes of walking from the highway. From the looks of things it would be difficult to ford it with dry feet and sure enough there was too much water. No problem, I would follow the other herd trail that remains on the south (left) bank until it petered out then bushwhack until the main herd path re-crosses the Boquet. This turned out to be a good thing because it was so darn pleasant in the open hardwood forest alongside the stream. However, I had a lot of ground to cover and when it became obvious that I had crossed over the herd path without seeing it I cut 90 deg. up the river bank keeping my eyes peeled. With all the leaves and the open forest it was easy to miss. Back on the trail I went into high gear making good time until the trail runs right down in the stream bed. This is one heck of a beautiful hike but the going is slow and I was constantly losing the trail due to fresh blowdown and leaf litter. I arrived at the slide’s base at 11:00, a little later than I would have liked but the bushwhacking and trail hunting (especially where the trail crosses over to the South Fork!) sucked up time.
The slide was amazing. The top of the mountain was covered in white and I couldn’t help wonder how much of it was ice and how much was snow. I’ve been up the slide twice and down it once on beautiful summer days when it was dry. Today it looked very intimidating. There was lots of water running down it and at the edge of the water flows there was a very thin layer of slick ice. Sometimes the water was flowing under the ice. There were fingers of dry rock intertwined with the water and ice. The ice was very thin and difficult to see. My glasses were fogged up. As I crossed the slide’s base I stepped on what I thought was dry rock and got a quick applied physics lesson. I was wondering what it would be like to ascend one of the dry rock fingers only to find myself trapped by ice on both sides and above me. I decided I didn’t need any more physics lessons and headed into the bush to the right. Anyway, I was supposed to be reconnoitring a potential snowshoe route up to the Grace-Carson col, not researching a book. Pete Hickey had told me, “go a tenth of a mile from the slide, it’s wide open”. I only went half that and it wasn’t bad so I climbed steadily, obeying the law of up.
Allthough I had feeling the effects of a lingering chest cold all morning long, now I really felt it. Burning in the chest, coughing, light headed etc. etc. I slowed to a crawl and started having second thoughts about the traverse. If all went smoothly I wouldn’t be on top of East Dix until about 12:30 at the rate I was going. I was not just a little worried about the too-thin-for-crampons ice followed by crossing the South Fork at the base of Etown # 4 where it was running swift and deep topped off with a headlamp bushwhack back to the car. There was a lot of spruce crowns and other assorted fresh blowdown and this got thicker as I went higher so I kept heading right. Finally I saw sky through the trees and the pitch eased off. I crossed the herd trail without seeing it even though my eyes were glued to the ground. Rather than turn around and go back I figured I better make sure and spent 30 energy sapping minutes thrashing through a very thick spruce salad bar. When I finally wised up and headed back I saw the trail (barely) and followed it just long enough to slip on some ice. Heading back down to the Boquet I stayed further from the slide and found bushwhacker’s Nirvana. Nothing but big birches well spaced and a mild downward slope. I was maybe 100 yards from my ascent route but it may as well have been a thousand miles. The route out was long and I was feeling pretty shot but it was so very special to be in the leafless, lifeless forest with the river nearby. You want to absorb the whole thing into the fabric of your being as you move through it. I had uninterrupted views of Spotted Mtn. and noticed lots of ice (funny how I hadn’t seen it earlier in the day) I took a good look at Lilypad pond and in order to avoid a big bend in the river climbed a 50 foot hill, turned around and got a long last look at beautiful Spotted and Etown mtns. I saw (and wayointed) where the herd path re-crosses the Boquet and the exact spot where I had crossed the trail unknowingly. It was hidden by blowdown and leaves.
At 3:15 the light was fading fast and I was glad to pick up the herd trail for the final 500 meters back to the car which was a welcome site.
So, now I have a bit of the Boquet figured out. Next non-winter trip will be up to Hough and around to Spotted.
Twice I’ve been up the Boquet to the Great Slide and on both occasions I wound up doing some unplanned bushwhacking. This time, I was going to figure it out once and for all and do a little recon for an upcoming winter hike. Nothing like mixing business with pleasure so I thought I’d traverse from Grace to Spotted Mtn. and Elizabethtown #4.
As I approached the little pullout on the 73 just north of where the 9 intersects I couldn’t help but notice that the water was deep and flowing swiftly in the rivers. The herd trail that leads to the Dix Cirque crosses the North Fork of the Boquet twice. The first crossing is situated within 10 minutes of walking from the highway. From the looks of things it would be difficult to ford it with dry feet and sure enough there was too much water. No problem, I would follow the other herd trail that remains on the south (left) bank until it petered out then bushwhack until the main herd path re-crosses the Boquet. This turned out to be a good thing because it was so darn pleasant in the open hardwood forest alongside the stream. However, I had a lot of ground to cover and when it became obvious that I had crossed over the herd path without seeing it I cut 90 deg. up the river bank keeping my eyes peeled. With all the leaves and the open forest it was easy to miss. Back on the trail I went into high gear making good time until the trail runs right down in the stream bed. This is one heck of a beautiful hike but the going is slow and I was constantly losing the trail due to fresh blowdown and leaf litter. I arrived at the slide’s base at 11:00, a little later than I would have liked but the bushwhacking and trail hunting (especially where the trail crosses over to the South Fork!) sucked up time.
The slide was amazing. The top of the mountain was covered in white and I couldn’t help wonder how much of it was ice and how much was snow. I’ve been up the slide twice and down it once on beautiful summer days when it was dry. Today it looked very intimidating. There was lots of water running down it and at the edge of the water flows there was a very thin layer of slick ice. Sometimes the water was flowing under the ice. There were fingers of dry rock intertwined with the water and ice. The ice was very thin and difficult to see. My glasses were fogged up. As I crossed the slide’s base I stepped on what I thought was dry rock and got a quick applied physics lesson. I was wondering what it would be like to ascend one of the dry rock fingers only to find myself trapped by ice on both sides and above me. I decided I didn’t need any more physics lessons and headed into the bush to the right. Anyway, I was supposed to be reconnoitring a potential snowshoe route up to the Grace-Carson col, not researching a book. Pete Hickey had told me, “go a tenth of a mile from the slide, it’s wide open”. I only went half that and it wasn’t bad so I climbed steadily, obeying the law of up.
Allthough I had feeling the effects of a lingering chest cold all morning long, now I really felt it. Burning in the chest, coughing, light headed etc. etc. I slowed to a crawl and started having second thoughts about the traverse. If all went smoothly I wouldn’t be on top of East Dix until about 12:30 at the rate I was going. I was not just a little worried about the too-thin-for-crampons ice followed by crossing the South Fork at the base of Etown # 4 where it was running swift and deep topped off with a headlamp bushwhack back to the car. There was a lot of spruce crowns and other assorted fresh blowdown and this got thicker as I went higher so I kept heading right. Finally I saw sky through the trees and the pitch eased off. I crossed the herd trail without seeing it even though my eyes were glued to the ground. Rather than turn around and go back I figured I better make sure and spent 30 energy sapping minutes thrashing through a very thick spruce salad bar. When I finally wised up and headed back I saw the trail (barely) and followed it just long enough to slip on some ice. Heading back down to the Boquet I stayed further from the slide and found bushwhacker’s Nirvana. Nothing but big birches well spaced and a mild downward slope. I was maybe 100 yards from my ascent route but it may as well have been a thousand miles. The route out was long and I was feeling pretty shot but it was so very special to be in the leafless, lifeless forest with the river nearby. You want to absorb the whole thing into the fabric of your being as you move through it. I had uninterrupted views of Spotted Mtn. and noticed lots of ice (funny how I hadn’t seen it earlier in the day) I took a good look at Lilypad pond and in order to avoid a big bend in the river climbed a 50 foot hill, turned around and got a long last look at beautiful Spotted and Etown mtns. I saw (and wayointed) where the herd path re-crosses the Boquet and the exact spot where I had crossed the trail unknowingly. It was hidden by blowdown and leaves.
At 3:15 the light was fading fast and I was glad to pick up the herd trail for the final 500 meters back to the car which was a welcome site.
So, now I have a bit of the Boquet figured out. Next non-winter trip will be up to Hough and around to Spotted.
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