My tale begins on Saturday, August 20. By this point in the summer, all my remaining weekends had been committed to non-hiking activities. Considering I only had four peaks remaining unclaimed on the NEHH, it was a bit of a bummer that I'd have to wait until September to finish off that list. Then, at the last minute, some things were postponed for two days, creating just enough of a window of time to finish off these remaining peaks before the end of the summer.
That Saturday I had a relatively straightforward hike up to the Peak above the Nubble, thanks mainly to Papa Bear's quality description of how to reach that summit. Luckily that day's omnipresent showers held off during my trek up that mountain. Even though the clouds prevented any view from PatN, considering all the showers I drove through en route to Haystack Road, I was just happy it was only spritzing a bit on the summit while I was there.
Moving on, with PatN claimed, all I had left was Maine's Boundary Peak, White Cap, and North Peak of Kennebago Divide. I was saving these for last only because they are the furthest into the wilderness of the NEHH peaks, and thus presented the greatest challenge to not getting lost. Since I have yet to gain map and compass skills, one can readily understand my hesitancy in pursuing these mountains. But, now it was finally their turn to be bumped off my "Must Hike" list.
Being in New Hampshire at that point, I went up to Route 16 in order to reach the Rangeley area. En route, I was gassing up in Berlin, and when that was done, I went to start the car and continue on my way, and the darn thing wouldn't start. I'd turn the key, yet it wouldn't make a sound. I'd not encountered that problem in some time, if ever, with that car, but thinking it was merely the battery (which was starting to get old and corroded anyway), I managed to sweet talk some locals into giving me a jumpstart, which got the car going again. Now, I guess a rational person would turn around at this point and seek these peaks on another day, at a time when they know for a fact that their car won't break down in the middle of nowhere. Sadly, I am not such a person. Knowing I'd soon be in the wilds north of Rangeley, I thought I'd have my bases covered simply by getting a battery at the local Wal Mart (which is interesting, considering I found out a few days later that it was actually the starter that needed to be replaced). It should further be noted that I had never replaced a car battery before, and am not a handy person by nature.
Anyhoo, after the stop at Wallyworld I was on the road again, reaching the Norton Cutoff Road around dusk. Having claimed Cupsuptic Snow over Memorial Day Weekend this year, I knew which logging roads to take in order to reach Cupsuptic Pond Road (including the new road along the western side of the Kennebago River/Little Kennebago Lake). Plus, since I drive a low sub-compact, I was quite grateful to find the dirt roads in much better condition than they had been in late May. Wiggle Brook Road was a little narrow in spots because of the undergrowth encroaching into the road, and one should cross both bridges along that stretch cautiously (only because they’re a bit narrow). Regardless, I was able to reach Cupsuptic Pond Road without any problems.
However, from that point on the driving became more interesting. Cupsuptic Pond wasn’t nearly as well maintained as the other roads (it even has weeds growing in the center of it in places this time of year), and within the first mile of turning down it my poor car sustained two solid whacks to the undercarriage (since it was night, I saw neither rock coming). Hence, after that first mile, I decided I’d done enough damage for one day, and pulled over where the road passes through the open bowl of an old sand pit.
It rained that night and into the next morning, so I ended up sleeping in the car (which I was planning on doing anyway). The next morning, by the time I’d finished breakfast the rain had tapered off to some light showers. Since this didn’t quite qualify as desirable bushwhacking weather, I grabbed my umbrella and walked the remaining 1.3 miles to Porter Brook Road, kicking away and removing any rocks I thought might try to violate my oil pan. This also allowed me to scope out the large puddles that had formed along the road recently and figure out how to best drive through them. Once I had returned to the car, the drizzle had stopped but it was still quite damp out, so I walked the mile back to Wiggle Brook Road, removing the all the evil stones in that direction too. With that done, I finally felt safe driving up to Porter Brook Road. Before starting the car, I took a look at its underside, but to my ignorant eyes everything looked okay. Plus, the thing even started, for which I was quite grateful in light of yesterday’s experience at the gas station.
My original plan was to do NKD, White Cap, then Boundary Peak, so in case the hike ran long darkness wouldn’t be as much of an issue when following the border swath and dirt roads, as opposed to trying to follow some overgrown trail in the gathering darkness. However, since everything was still soaked at that point, I didn’t relish the prospect of bushwhacking through wet woods, so making Boundary the first objective made more sense. Especially since the weather predictions claimed that it would clear up by that afternoon, which hopefully would dry out everything before I had to do any real bushwhacking.
I’ve hiked enough in my time that I’ve learned that I don’t need to take much with me (I usually don’t even bring a backpack with me, but I would never ever suggest others do this). For this particular foray, all I was bringing with me was a small GPS device (into which I’d already entered the coordinates for the three peaks), camera, small flashlight, and pen (in case the registers I encountered only had pencils). I wrapped everything up in a plastic grocery bag (it made for a small parcel), which I carried up the sleeve of my long sleeve T-shirt (it was prevented from falling out by the elasticity in the wrist).
Anyway, I managed to park at Porter Brook Road without any further problems in transit. While in the midst of getting ready to head out, I heard a truck driving down the road. Since I was in the middle of nowhere, I was quite intrigued by what anyone else would be doing out there, and I was hoping they’d pull over so that I’d get to talk them. Well, I got my wish, as they turned out to be a ranger with the Maine Forest Service. Right off the bat he wanted to search the car. Since I’d left all my illegal stuff at home for this trip (just kidding) I let him go ahead without any objections. As it turns out, he was looking for hunting and fishing paraphernalia, and Heaven only knows what else. He must have also been looking for non-permitted campers, and he even asked if I’d had a fire the night before. It didn’t occur to me until later to ask how I could have had a campfire in all that rain. Just overall, he seemed quite intrigued by what I could be doing out there (especially while carrying an extra car battery in the car), and he seemed a little surprised that any hiker would travel so far afield to climb a mountain (apparently he doesn’t know our kind very well). Once he had heard my objectives and my proposed route, he advised against wandering into Canada in order to cut the tangent on the border. He warned of the border agents patrolling the area, and how if any of them caught me illegally crossing over, they’d impound my car and haul my butt to Bangor. Since I had to be in Boston the next morning, I didn’t really relish this prospect. In light of my first destination, he suggested parking up at Cupsuptic Pond, then hiking up to the border swath and following that to the peak. But, once I’d explained what it took for me to get my car even that far up the road, he understood why I didn’t want to drive any further. He then told me how on Porter Brook Road there was a trail on the left that went up to the border. He said how its junction was marked by two pieces of surveyor’s tape, and that this side path was quite clear in the winter, when it’s used as a snowmobile trail. However, he was a little foggy on where it started, but he was kind of sure that it was after Porter Brook Road crossed its third culvert, and that it should be the first major left shortly after that He even showed me where it was on his Delorme map (which was the newest edition and thus a little more accurate than the one I had in the car). I’m not sure how much of what I told him he believed, but when we parted ways he advised that when I left the woods, I should leave a note for him at the Oquossoc ranger station so that he’d know I’d gotten out alright. I think he also suspected that I might try to camp without a permit, and he said that if he didn’t see a note from me the next day, he’d be forced to drive back to that very spot to make sure I was gone. He made it clear that if I were still there, bad things would happen. I’d like to note here that the ranger was actually a very nice person, but it’s just that he comes off as very stern when I paraphrase our conversation.
That Saturday I had a relatively straightforward hike up to the Peak above the Nubble, thanks mainly to Papa Bear's quality description of how to reach that summit. Luckily that day's omnipresent showers held off during my trek up that mountain. Even though the clouds prevented any view from PatN, considering all the showers I drove through en route to Haystack Road, I was just happy it was only spritzing a bit on the summit while I was there.
Moving on, with PatN claimed, all I had left was Maine's Boundary Peak, White Cap, and North Peak of Kennebago Divide. I was saving these for last only because they are the furthest into the wilderness of the NEHH peaks, and thus presented the greatest challenge to not getting lost. Since I have yet to gain map and compass skills, one can readily understand my hesitancy in pursuing these mountains. But, now it was finally their turn to be bumped off my "Must Hike" list.
Being in New Hampshire at that point, I went up to Route 16 in order to reach the Rangeley area. En route, I was gassing up in Berlin, and when that was done, I went to start the car and continue on my way, and the darn thing wouldn't start. I'd turn the key, yet it wouldn't make a sound. I'd not encountered that problem in some time, if ever, with that car, but thinking it was merely the battery (which was starting to get old and corroded anyway), I managed to sweet talk some locals into giving me a jumpstart, which got the car going again. Now, I guess a rational person would turn around at this point and seek these peaks on another day, at a time when they know for a fact that their car won't break down in the middle of nowhere. Sadly, I am not such a person. Knowing I'd soon be in the wilds north of Rangeley, I thought I'd have my bases covered simply by getting a battery at the local Wal Mart (which is interesting, considering I found out a few days later that it was actually the starter that needed to be replaced). It should further be noted that I had never replaced a car battery before, and am not a handy person by nature.
Anyhoo, after the stop at Wallyworld I was on the road again, reaching the Norton Cutoff Road around dusk. Having claimed Cupsuptic Snow over Memorial Day Weekend this year, I knew which logging roads to take in order to reach Cupsuptic Pond Road (including the new road along the western side of the Kennebago River/Little Kennebago Lake). Plus, since I drive a low sub-compact, I was quite grateful to find the dirt roads in much better condition than they had been in late May. Wiggle Brook Road was a little narrow in spots because of the undergrowth encroaching into the road, and one should cross both bridges along that stretch cautiously (only because they’re a bit narrow). Regardless, I was able to reach Cupsuptic Pond Road without any problems.
However, from that point on the driving became more interesting. Cupsuptic Pond wasn’t nearly as well maintained as the other roads (it even has weeds growing in the center of it in places this time of year), and within the first mile of turning down it my poor car sustained two solid whacks to the undercarriage (since it was night, I saw neither rock coming). Hence, after that first mile, I decided I’d done enough damage for one day, and pulled over where the road passes through the open bowl of an old sand pit.
It rained that night and into the next morning, so I ended up sleeping in the car (which I was planning on doing anyway). The next morning, by the time I’d finished breakfast the rain had tapered off to some light showers. Since this didn’t quite qualify as desirable bushwhacking weather, I grabbed my umbrella and walked the remaining 1.3 miles to Porter Brook Road, kicking away and removing any rocks I thought might try to violate my oil pan. This also allowed me to scope out the large puddles that had formed along the road recently and figure out how to best drive through them. Once I had returned to the car, the drizzle had stopped but it was still quite damp out, so I walked the mile back to Wiggle Brook Road, removing the all the evil stones in that direction too. With that done, I finally felt safe driving up to Porter Brook Road. Before starting the car, I took a look at its underside, but to my ignorant eyes everything looked okay. Plus, the thing even started, for which I was quite grateful in light of yesterday’s experience at the gas station.
My original plan was to do NKD, White Cap, then Boundary Peak, so in case the hike ran long darkness wouldn’t be as much of an issue when following the border swath and dirt roads, as opposed to trying to follow some overgrown trail in the gathering darkness. However, since everything was still soaked at that point, I didn’t relish the prospect of bushwhacking through wet woods, so making Boundary the first objective made more sense. Especially since the weather predictions claimed that it would clear up by that afternoon, which hopefully would dry out everything before I had to do any real bushwhacking.
I’ve hiked enough in my time that I’ve learned that I don’t need to take much with me (I usually don’t even bring a backpack with me, but I would never ever suggest others do this). For this particular foray, all I was bringing with me was a small GPS device (into which I’d already entered the coordinates for the three peaks), camera, small flashlight, and pen (in case the registers I encountered only had pencils). I wrapped everything up in a plastic grocery bag (it made for a small parcel), which I carried up the sleeve of my long sleeve T-shirt (it was prevented from falling out by the elasticity in the wrist).
Anyway, I managed to park at Porter Brook Road without any further problems in transit. While in the midst of getting ready to head out, I heard a truck driving down the road. Since I was in the middle of nowhere, I was quite intrigued by what anyone else would be doing out there, and I was hoping they’d pull over so that I’d get to talk them. Well, I got my wish, as they turned out to be a ranger with the Maine Forest Service. Right off the bat he wanted to search the car. Since I’d left all my illegal stuff at home for this trip (just kidding) I let him go ahead without any objections. As it turns out, he was looking for hunting and fishing paraphernalia, and Heaven only knows what else. He must have also been looking for non-permitted campers, and he even asked if I’d had a fire the night before. It didn’t occur to me until later to ask how I could have had a campfire in all that rain. Just overall, he seemed quite intrigued by what I could be doing out there (especially while carrying an extra car battery in the car), and he seemed a little surprised that any hiker would travel so far afield to climb a mountain (apparently he doesn’t know our kind very well). Once he had heard my objectives and my proposed route, he advised against wandering into Canada in order to cut the tangent on the border. He warned of the border agents patrolling the area, and how if any of them caught me illegally crossing over, they’d impound my car and haul my butt to Bangor. Since I had to be in Boston the next morning, I didn’t really relish this prospect. In light of my first destination, he suggested parking up at Cupsuptic Pond, then hiking up to the border swath and following that to the peak. But, once I’d explained what it took for me to get my car even that far up the road, he understood why I didn’t want to drive any further. He then told me how on Porter Brook Road there was a trail on the left that went up to the border. He said how its junction was marked by two pieces of surveyor’s tape, and that this side path was quite clear in the winter, when it’s used as a snowmobile trail. However, he was a little foggy on where it started, but he was kind of sure that it was after Porter Brook Road crossed its third culvert, and that it should be the first major left shortly after that He even showed me where it was on his Delorme map (which was the newest edition and thus a little more accurate than the one I had in the car). I’m not sure how much of what I told him he believed, but when we parted ways he advised that when I left the woods, I should leave a note for him at the Oquossoc ranger station so that he’d know I’d gotten out alright. I think he also suspected that I might try to camp without a permit, and he said that if he didn’t see a note from me the next day, he’d be forced to drive back to that very spot to make sure I was gone. He made it clear that if I were still there, bad things would happen. I’d like to note here that the ranger was actually a very nice person, but it’s just that he comes off as very stern when I paraphrase our conversation.
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