Capitol Reef and other wanderings in Utah

[audrey]

Pat and I and friends Marge and Mitch landed in Salt Lake City and drove to Torrey, Utah on April 24. First stop was lunch in Sandy at the Mayan: great food, with the added entertainment (!) of loinclothed divers, right inside the dining area, plummeting into a small pool from about 20 feet up.

The weather was wonderful, though several days we kept a very watchful eye on storms that never quite made it to us. We did get a bit of snow, but mostly the storms stayed attracted to the 11,000' mountains nearby, like Boulder and the Henrys. You'll see some very dark skies in some of my photos, which made the views even better at times.

We hiked:
1. Chimney Rock loop with a trip to and from the spring in Upper Spring Canyon. The loop alone is only 3.5 miles and the views from the upper part are jaw-dropping;
2. Upper Muley Twist Canyon. The drive there on the Notom-Bullfrog Road and home via the Burr Trail each deserve a full day of exploration. The Canyon is a must-do...the west side is dark red rock with about 6 arches viewable; the east side (rim route) is white sandstone and narrows to a knife edge that gives views into the canyon and also looks out eastward over the Strike Valley. You're right on top of the Waterpocket fold here.
3. Cassidy Arch and part of the Frying Pan Trail plus a stroll up Grand Wash. The redrock, the stunted pines, and the views...this is supposed to be one of the most popular trails in the park, and we saw 5 people all day.
4. Little Wild Horse Canyon and Goblin Valley. Marge attempted a nasty scramble right at the start of Little Wild Horse and fell and broke her wrist. Not knowing it was broken, she wrapped it up and we proceeded for about an hour through the canyon until she started to suspect it was not just a sprain. Oh well, we did get through some of the narrows, and frankly, I'd trade it for an Escalante canyon any day. Not as colorful, and there were signs of overuse everywhere: some trash, graffiti, etc.
Goblin Valley is likewise uninspiring, probably because there are no restrictions on foot travel and although climbing on the goblins is discouraged, it's a paradise for kids and others who like to scramble. They look trodden and are probably eroding at a record pace.
5. Horseshoe Canyon (Canyonlands). Wow! Standing in the Great Gallery, in an orange alcove gazing up at 8-foot high pictographs that may be as old as 8000 years is a good way to spend the day! We hiked in later than anyone else and had the 2 rangers to ourselves, and they unroped the restricted section and took us right up to the wall and gave us a fascinating talk.
Last stop that day was the Green River Medical Center for an xray.
Great trip. Next year: Arches and Canyonlands!

Pics here:
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/577603291Siqrzf

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

Nice set of pics - looks like it was a fun trip! Thanks for sharing.

 

[DougPaul]

Looks like a nice trip...

(And DO check out the main portion of Canyonlands when you have a chance. It's incredible.)

Agreed. Both sections--the Needles District and Island in the Sky (including Dead Horse Point State Park.).

Some other nearby not-to-be-missed spots:
* Rte 279 along the Colorado to just below Dead Horse Point. (Scenic, dinosaur footprints, petroglyphs)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utah_State_Route_279
* Needles Overlook (This one will blow your socks off... A 300 degree view from a point on the edge of a mesa overlooking the Needles district).
http://www.moab-utah.com/photo/needlesoverlook.html
http://www.imagesoftheworld.org/GrandCircle/needlesoverlook.html

(While searching for the Needles Overlook refs, I ran across http://www.imagesoftheworld.org/GrandCircle/GC.htm. Over 600 pics from the desert SW. Worth a look-see...)

Doug

 

[audrey]

Interesting to note -- this area is roped off now?

When we were there about a year and a half ago, there were no restrictions whatsoever...one could come and go as one pleased and get very close to the wall paintings.

(And DO check out the main portion of Canyonlands when you have a chance. It's incredible.)

It's roped, though that wouldn't stop anyone who wants to get closer. Whenever they can, they have volunteer rangers hanging out there to discourage vandals.

Did you see the petroglyph that shows the fighting cougars? We could hardly make it out on the wall, but it was pretty clear in my photo. I'll add it to the Webshots album, along with the photo of drawing in the ranger's book.

Doug, thanks for the links. I'm already checking out Canyonlands. Upheaval Dome looks like a must-do too.

 

[DougPaul]

Doug, thanks for the links. I'm already checking out Canyonlands. Upheaval Dome looks like a must-do too.

Upheval Dome is a very unique spot. I've hiked the [pretty easy] trail along the south rim.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Upheaval_Dome
http://www.nps.gov/cany/naturescience/upheavaldome.htm

Doug

 

[blaze]

beautiful photos. thanks for sharing!

 

[Tom Rankin]

Wow, and I thought Red Rock Canyon was great!

 

[MichaelJ]

Beautiful! I've always wondered what else is in Utah besides the skiing.

 

[DougPaul]

Upheaval Dome is a great hike, including the somewhat-more-rugged northern section of the trail.

It sounds like hiking into the Dome is also a good hike too, but it may require a 4wd approach.
http://www.shallowsky.com/Honeymoon/UpheavalCanyon.html
http://www.shallowsky.com/upheaval.html

When you head to Canyonlands, please do visit the Needles section.

That area, in my opinion, is the best part of Canyonlands.

I enjoyed (and recommend) both the Needles and Island in the Sky districts--been to both twice. Haven't been to the Maze district.

Doug

 

[DougPaul]

Beautiful! I've always wondered what else is in Utah besides the skiing.

The Colorado Plateau (portions of Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado) and some near-by areas are spectacular. Well worth visiting. And very, very different from the NE.

Includes: Grand Canyon, Arches, Bryce, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands, Zion, Mesa Verde, Petrified Forest, Dinosaur, Hovenweep, Grand Staircase-Escalante, Colorado National Monument, Monument Valley, Natural Bridges, Goblin State Pk, Goosenecks State Pk, Paria Plateau, Shiprock, and lots more.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colorado_Plateau

Doug

 

[alavigne]

Upheaval Dome is a great hike, including the somewhat-more-rugged northern section of the trail.

When you head to Canyonlands, please do visit the Needles section.

That area, in my opinion, is the best part of Canyonlands.

We spent several days in that area a couple of Decembers ago -- PM me if you need some information about it.

Also, if you like complete solitude with your excellent Canyonlands scenery, the Maze district is also great.

 

[Stan]

Thanks for the information and pictures.

We'll be there 3 days at the height of summer, not normally when we'd schedule a trip to an area like this but the Las Vegas karate event is driving the timing and itinerary.

What maps did you find most helpful?

We're thinking of a relatively short loop from Strike Valley Overlook, which I think ties into the Upper Muley Twist Canyon for a longer trek. In Fruita, your Chimney Rock loop and Hickman Bridge seem reasonable if we stay out of the mid day sun.

Anticipate we'll spend a night at Cedar Mesa campground (5 sites, no water). Did you see that in your journey.

"Loop the Fold Auto Guide" was suggested as useful. What were your most pertinent resources?

... just thinking about the heat I can't help but look forward to the River of no Return in Idaho, agua! ... a few days north on our circuituous route home.

 

[audrey]

What maps did you find most helpful?

We're thinking of a relatively short loop from Strike Valley Overlook, which I think ties into the Upper Muley Twist Canyon for a longer trek. In Fruita, your Chimney Rock loop and Hickman Bridge seem reasonable if we stay out of the mid day sun.

Anticipate we'll spend a night at Cedar Mesa campground (5 sites, no water). Did you see that in your journey.

"Loop the Fold Auto Guide" was suggested as useful. What were your most pertinent resources?

Stan,
Chimney Rock loop is in the sun all the way, and there's about 1000 feet of elevation gain, so be advised...

Ron Adkison's book, "Utah's National Parks: Hiking, Camping, and Vacationing in Utah's Canyon Country" is an excellent overview as well as containing hike descriptions. I have a 2005 edition: perhaps there's a newer one, since of course things change.

The website www.localhikes.com is very good, as are desertusa and summit post. Marge bought a newly published Capitol Reef hiking book at the visitor center, and the author is a ranger named Rick Stinchfield and he was working the desk that day...great chat, advice, and an autograph.

We did drive by Cedar Mesa on our way to Upper Muley Twist. Beautiful country.

Strike Valley Overlook trail is 3 miles from the 2WD parking lot via a 4WD road that has a couple of scrapy rocky sections. Actually, the road in to the 2WD lot was pretty bad, with very deep ruts that would bottom out any auto if you're not careful.

You can get some good views from the Burr Trail switchbacks. I seem to remember there were some turnouts, but I kept my eyes closed part of the time hoping we wouldn't meet another car and was glad we were going up, not down. I know you: it won't bother you at all.

 

[DougPaul]

You can get some good views from the Burr Trail switchbacks. I seem to remember there were some turnouts, but I kept my eyes closed part of the time hoping we wouldn't meet another car and was glad we were going up, not down. I know you: it won't bother you at all.

I drove down it in a 2wd rental. Twice...

No problem. (But I had to keep my eyes open--I was driving. ) I also had no problem driving down Moki Dugway.

My only problem was a shallow (dry ditch) stream crossing a bit above the switchbacks. It was just around a turn so I couldn't see it coming. It was like hitting a deep pothole.


Stan: I used several Trails Illustrated topos for the area. The State of Utah also published a highway map entitled "Utah! Official Highway Map" that I picked up at an information center in Salt Lake City. It does a very good job of showing the natural areas and the major access roads. Mine was published in 2000, but it looks like it is still available: http://travel.utah.gov/publications/statehighwaymap.html. (The 8.67MB pdf.) You might be able to print sections or get a printed paper copy from the state.

Doug