Central Gully Via Huntington

[giggy]

Hi - as you can see from previous post, I am looking for other options via washington (winter) than boot spur and lions head, which I have been doing for years. This is year I am thinking of trying some of the easier climbs up huntington. I hear and based on my own research that central gully is the easiest of the climbs up hunt ravine. I also and under the imnpression that this is more of a snow climb rather than ice. While I am well experienced in crampons/axe - I basically have no rope expereicne. There seems to be some hints that this is a unroped climb. But I find that hard to believe. Just trying to gain some knowledge there before I do anything. I am leaning towards a guide - but I would hate to do that if not needed as money is always an issue these days - but so is safety.

thanks for any hints.

 

[ChrisB]

Giggy,

Central is indeed one of the easier routes in Huntington and is regularly soloed. There is usually a small blue-ice buldge about half way up that you'll need to contend with. Depending on the snow cover, this buldge can be 15 feet or 50 feet in length.

If you are comfortable moving un-roped over very easy ice you'll have no problem. You can clearly see the extent of the buldge as you approach the climb, so no surprise will await you.

I think the easiest routh out of Huntington is actually South Gully, along with the Escape Hatch it is often used as a descent route from other climbs. In good years it is all snow. It is shorter than Central and less committing.

Visit the Chauvin Guides Web site Photo Gallery to view a picture of Central Gully taaken Nov 14th. Other popular Huntington routes are also displayed.

cb

 

[AMF]

Central is indeed one of, if not the, easiest route up, but as noted it can vary a lot based on snow conditions. I found myself on it one snowy winter & almost topped out without realizing it! However, be wary of avalanche conditions - thats one thing that usually is not an issue on the Boot and Lions Head routes.

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Snow/Ice Climbs in Huntington Ravine

I agree with ChrisB and AMF that Central Gully can be one of the easier climbs in Huntington Ravine; however, if you are soloing and slip on ice that is common part way up, the run out at the bottom can be fatal in the early season when much angular rock is exposed. As noted, South Gully and the Escape Hatch are usually all snow, so are probably easier for an ice ax self arrest in case of a slip. Cornices can be avalanche dangerous for all three of these gullies, as well as and especially Odell's, after a long periods of prevailing NW winds.

 

[snowman]

Yup, one of the easier routes. But you have to remember there are climbers that solo 5.12 climbs on El Cap in Yosemite. Anything can (and has) been soloed it just depends on the climber and risk tolerance.
I always find it a strange questions to answer "Can this or that route be soloed?". Unless you are really comfortable with the peson giving you the answer.

The ravine can be unnerving if you haven't climbed up there, even Central gully and it's a long tumble and as said the ice bulge can be intimidating. Souht gully is also a good recc, but with little snow up there now, expect the climbe tobe more technical than usual.

I'm always looking for partners to head up there with and am experienced with ice and rope, etc.
If you need someone to check it out with, shoot me a line, I'd love to hook up.
Jeff