First Trip to the Whites 10/14-15

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MattC

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Ulster County, NY Avatar: Chapel Pond From Giant M
Finally made it over to the White Mountains this past weekend, after hearing so much from friends and reading so much on this site and in books. I was not disappointed. I ended up going on very short notice Friday PM, and left Kingston, NY w/ Nancy and Bruce about 8 PM, a very late start considering that we had about a 6 hour drive. We shared the driving shifts and managed to get to Dawn's (Hike the 115) condo in North Conway at about 2 AM. Dawn and all of our other friends were well into dreamland at this point, so we quietly made our way in and crashed. The entire crew except T-max was setting out for a NEHH at a reasonable hour in the AM.

T-max on the other hand, was setting out for a long hike a bit earlier. After a short night, she gently awoke me around 6 w/ headlamp shining to see if I was still going w/ her. After some tea and oatmeal, I decided to go for it. She was doing a traverse of Zealand and the Bonds. I borrowed Dawn's car and followed T-max to the Lincoln Woods trailhead, where we left her car. She then joined me and directed me back around to RT 93, 302 and the Zealand Rd. I was enjoying just driving around on the remarkably scenic roads.

We set out from the Zealand trailhead a little before 9, another very late start for a long journey. At this point I figured I had at least helped T-max spot her car, and I would probably just hike to Zealand and back out, since I was concerned that I just be too exhausted later in the day to do this long hike. The first mile or so was on flat, easy ground, I was feeling great, and the pretty beaver-impacted areas only added to my sense of well-being. By the time we reached Zealand Hut, I was leaning towards doing the whole traverse.

We enjoyed a very nice vista from a lookout ledge a bit off the trail, and a short while after that we were on the viewless Zealand. Nice sign at least.
There was a small party there, one of whom had just finished climbing the 48. I made the decision, and T-max and I motored on. Next mountain was Guyot, named for the great surveyor. Absolutely breathtaking views from this one. T-max told me this was a much better taste of what the Whites are all about than Zealand. I believe she was right.

Back down into the woods for a rest and snacking, then up towards the West Bond spur and out and back to West Bond pretty quickly. We had seen quite a few other people so far, mostly backpackers and hut folks. There were four guys who kept going a little farther on the range, although they had to return to Zealand Hut for the night. IIRC two headed back after West Bond, and the other two went all the way to Bondcliff.

Anyhow, we had really been cruising along, only stopping briefly for photos. I still felt great though, and we were making excellent time. The views from Bond were again superb, and then the traverse along that ridge just blew me away. Wow. Definitely wow. The initimate view of slides on West Bond seemed really familiar to me, and then I realized that it was from the cover of the AMC trail guide. Hey, I'm learning stuff here! We took a few more pics w/ T-max's camera (film!), including one I took of her standing on that famous cliff. In addition to the marvelous terrain, I was also admiring the krumholtz (sp?) and other alpine flora. Looked like a lot of Labrador Tea around. Must be nice in the summer.

It was 3:30 or so when we arrived at Bondcliff and we finally sat down for more than 10 minutes. We left a little after 4. Everyone had said the trail back down to the Wilderness Trail was very steep, so I was happy that we still had plenty of light. As it turns out, the slope is indeed steep, but IMO that trail is so well built that the steepness is rarely a problem. There was one little ledgy bit not far below the summit that was easy to negotiate, then lots of switchbacks, well-done sidehills, stone stairs, etc. In fact, I'd like to say here that most of the trail I walked on Saturday was a sheer joy. My hat is off to the workers that designed, built and continue to maintain these paths.

We arrived back down on the old railroad grade with sunlight to spare, and began the final schlep. Headlamps were donned after 30 minutes or so, and we passed the time by talking about our Dead show experiences of many years ago, among other things. Soon we were back at Lincoln Woods, a few hairs under 11 hours after starting out. Then it was just a car retrieval and drive back to the condo for Indian food, beer and laughter with the other merry folk there assembled. Lights out before midnight. So wholesome, we were.

Matt
 
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Glad you enjoyed your traverse, some great terrain for sure. A good trip for your first taste of the White Mountains, I love the Bonds.
 
Welcome! You started with some of the best, but there are plenty more! By the way, that ledgy outlook near Zealand is called Zeacliff, and when the entire valley is swept with the golds of fall, it's more than just a nice vista.
 
Day Two

Sunday I arose at a reasonable hour and commenced lazing about. T-max was planning another hike w/ Harry K, some other folks were sleeping in, and Nancy, Bruce and Mary were planning on climbing to one of the Cannon Balls. I felt pretty satisfied with the previous day, and was leaning towards heading back home early with Dawn, or maybe just doing a short walk if she or anyone else was up for something like that. I felt stronger as the morning wore on, having eaten and slept pretty well, and as I pored over maps, I realized that Cannon looked like a pretty reasonable hike I could do from the same trailhead Nancy and company planned to use. So, yet another last minute decision and I was off with them.

Also, yet another late start, but at least this time it was for short hikes. We began around 11ish at the Lafayette Campground, started together on the Lonesome Lake trail and then I left them, heading up the Hi-Cannon. Lots of switchbacks on the lower parts, and it was hard to stop turning around to gape over at Franconia Ridge through the trees. A ways past the Dodge cut-off, the trail got more rugged, and I especially enjoyed the bouldery sections traversing along the edge of the slope. There was one ladder, with a wood plank to traverse along for a few feet along at the top of a steep, exposed slab. This was a little "exciting" for me, particularly since I was alone. It wasn't at all difficult, but I'm not crazy about exposure. I did remember T-max telling me the previous day about some place in the Whites where there are many of these ladders and planks though, and I was hoping this wasn't it! It wasn't.

BTW, it had been lightly flurrying for a while at this point, which was a very nice touch. When I got to the flat section, there was a light layer of snow on branches and the ground. Great thing to see, and yet the ceiling was still well above the peaks. Couldn't ask for better. Soon I was on top, w/ a few other hikers and a bunch of tram-riders. It was pretty chilly, and I wore one fleece, zipped up shell, watch cap and gloves the whole time on the summit. I could have put one my other fleece w/o overheating I'm sure. Some of the tram-folk seemed a little surprised that it was colder up here than 2000 feet below. One guy had on shorts and was carrying a picnic basket. :D

I went up a few landings on the tower and looked around, but didn't even bother to join the crowd at the top of the thing. I went back down aways and checked the tram trail out, noticed a perfect lookout ledge and hung out there for a bit munching snacks and admiring all things Franconia-notch and ridge. I found it interesting that many of the folks walking by from the tram to the tower didn't even seem to look out at the splendid vista as they walked by. It was as if they thought they had to climb the tower to see anything. Disclaimer: I'm not saying this makes someone a bad person. Just an observation on human behavior.

Another thought occured to me as I sat at this ledge. Wasn't this around where Guy Waterman first tried to take his own life? And wasn't that Lafayette across the way, where he finally actually did so? This added a somber counterpoint to the otherwise pleasant experience, and I felt a little shiver. Perhaps it was the weather. Winter was definitely in the air. I headed back down and actually threw on mitts for a few minutes to rewarm my chilly hands.

I took the trail back down to Lonesome Lake and decided to add on the quick loop around the lake. Very glad I did, since the spruce bog/beaver swamp added nice variety, and of course still more of those legendary views of Franconia Ridge. Once back on the descent trail, I just motored, figuring Nancy and the others were probably waiting by now. They were, and we bid Mary farewell and hit the road around 4. After a quick stop in North Woodstock for food and coffee, and another brief stop for a visit w/ Nancy's old whitewater friend, it was the long road home.

I greatly enjoyed my first visit to the Whites and look forward to many more.

Matt
 
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mcorsar said:
Finally made it over to the White Mountains this past weekend,
T-max was setting out for a long hike. After a short night, she gently awoke me around 6 w/ headlamp shining to see if I was still going w/ her. Absolutely breathtaking views, T-max told me this was a much better taste of what the Whites are all about. I believe she was right.
Soon we were back at Lincoln Woods, a few hairs under 11 hours after starting out.
Matt
Glad I was able to "break you in" with style Matt;). So, can I assume your first trip to Colorado will be a backpack over 6 of the 14ers?:D I can't believe what an amazing hike this was and that the weather has been so beautiful the last three weekends. Will we get a fourth? Are you ready for another trip to NH? This one will be a "quickie." :D
 
mcorsar said:
It was 3:30 or so when we arrived at Bondcliff and we finally sat down for more than 10 minutes. We left a little after 4. Everyone had said the trail back down to the Wilderness Trail was very steep, so I was happy that we still had plenty of light. As it turns out, the slope is indeed steep, but IMO that trail is so well built that the steepness is rarely a problem. There was one little ledgy bit not far below the summit that was easy to negotiate, then lots of switchbacks, well-done sidehills, stone stairs, etc. In fact, I'd like to say here that most of the trail I walked on Saturday was a sheer joy. My hat is off to the workers that designed, built and continue to maintain these paths.

Is it really that steep? Compared to what? I think that the Bondcliff trail was the gentlest of the trails (Topo! 4.0 shows 14% average grade, with the 4th brook crossing "stairs" at about 28% at the steepest) I've done this year (14 4Ks). The Flume Slide (55% max) was steepest, followed by North Tripyramid Slide (53% max). Falling waters, the upper half (Shining Rock to Little Haystack) is about 40%.

(note all grades are approximated using the zoom feature of Topo! 4.0 and grabbing the steepest slope of .25 miles or longer.)

I was wicked impressed with the Bondcliff trail -- it "scared" me on paper, and when I went to do it, I intended only to bag Bondcliff. I arrived there 1 hour ahead of my schedule -- plenty of time to go see Bond and West Bond, and still got home 15 minutes ahead of that schedule.

Tim
 
mcorsar said:
Finally made it over to the White Mountains this past weekend, after hearing so much from friends and reading so much on this site and in books. I was not disappointed.


Giddy-up!

- darren
 
TMax said:
Glad I was able to "break you in" with style Matt;). So, can I assume your first trip to Colorado will be a backpack over 6 of the 14ers?

Sure, why not? Just wake me up @ 6 AM and don't tell me what we're doing. :D

bikehikeskifish said:
Is it really that steep?

No, that was my whole point. The slope seemed kinda steep, but that trail is so well done w/ switchbacks, etc., that the route is not steep. Sorry I didn't make that clear.

darren said:
Giddy-up!

Yes, exactly.

spongebob said:
Tmax, I'm sorry you had to hike with Matt. At least Matt got to go back to that junky river in NY.

Sigh, I didn't want to have to post this, but you've forced my hand. As much as I enjoyed this trip, I looked really hard for something bad about New England I could blame on Spongebob. No luck, I'll have to try harder next time. Wait, I've got it! Keeping him there is the sacrifice the rest of you New Englanders have to make for living near such great mountains! :D

Matt
 
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if memory serves correct Waterman offed himself near North Lafayette which doesnt look as spectacular as Lafayette proper from afar, but IMO is waaay nicer when you get up there. ;)
 
mcorsar said:
No, that was my whole point. The slope seemed kinda steep, but that trail is so well done w/ switchbacks, etc., that the route is not steep. Sorry I didn't make that clear. Matt

Matt, I agree with you on the Bonds they are special. I finished on Bondcliff so there is an added fondness for that one. Speaking of finishing as per your TR you did Zealand, West Bond, Bond, Bondcliff, Canon,,,,,,, Hrmmmm only 43 to go!!!
 
AntlerPeak said:
Speaking of finishing as per your TR you did Zealand, West Bond, Bond, Bondcliff, Canon,,,,,,, Hrmmmm only 43 to go!!!

Whenever my friends brought this up, I kept insisting that I wasn't really working on the 48 list and they kept laughing at me. Okay, I'll admit it-I intend to eventually climb all those peaks. I guess what I meant by "not working on it" was that it won't be like the way I went at the Catskill 35 and the Adirondack 46. 6 hour drives tend to slow things down a bit. I may try to get over there a time or two this winter, and next summer I may actually spend a solid 5 days or so in the Whites. This is opposed to my first round of the Catskill 35, which consisted of hikes every weekend, often both days, for three months.

Matt
 
mcorsar said:
Whenever my friends brought this up, I kept insisting that I wasn't really working on the 48 list and they kept laughing at me. Okay, I'll admit it-I intend to eventually climb all those peaks. I guess what I meant by "not working on it" was that it won't be like the way I went at the Catskill 35 and the Adirondack 46. 6 hour drives tend to slow things down a bit. I may try to get over there a time or two this winter, and next summer I may actually spend a solid 5 days or so in the Whites. This is opposed to my first round of the Catskill 35, which consisted of hikes every weekend, often both days, for three months.

Matt


With a solid five days you can "bag" a large number of them. I had expressed the same having climbed less than ten or so. I don't remember the exact count. Then my buddy and I did the AT in New England. Mind you we were not going to do any more lists but how could we explain the whack of Abraham in Maine from the At? When finishing the hundreds of miles to get the NE AT done we discovered there were so very few peaks remaining why not finish?

The 115 still offers the opportunity to score a low number. I believe presently there are less than 600. Hmmm something to think about. Good luck with it Matt, there are lots of Gems in the Whites, not to mention those tucked away in Maine.
 
Hey Matt glad you had a good time, just in case you need more friends to help you wiht the NH 48 I ahve a longer drive than you and will ber willing to carpool to help you out
I would have loved to come up there with all of you but it is a tough two day weekend. With my drive I really need a three day trip to get in any descent hikes.
Oh by the way I neeed 45 so I have to catch up.
Al
 
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