Florida Paddling - 2011

[Stan]

I had been to Florida several times before; beaches, footbowl games, business, pleasure, Daytona, Disney, the Keys and Everglades … but this trip, themed around paddling destinations planned for a sampling of the different kinds of places (coastal bays, estuaries, rivers and springs) was, for me, the “real Florida”. Being a large peninsula, Florida can naturally be expected to have a lot of coastline; what’s not so well known are the numerous springs (highest concentration of 1st magnitude springs, >64 million gal/day, in the world), creeks, rivers and lakes which are navigable, often interconnected by canals. This geography, combined with history which predates our old New England and a natural world quite different from the wildness we’re accustomed to, makes for a very enjoyable and enlightening trip. Ponce Deleon may not have found the fountain of youth, but a tour here gives good reason why it’s a logical place to look!

If you need further motivation to paddle Florida, consider the snow we had to dig the boat out of:

View attachment 3269

… and compare it with this:

View attachment 3270

… still not convinced, try this:

View attachment 3271

Our inspiration for this trip was our friend, Charlie, who has paddled Florida several times and convinced us through his descriptions and photos. I found these links particularly helpful for planning:

Florida’s Designated Paddling Trails - http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt/guide/paddle.htm
Central Florida Kayak Trips - http://www.clubkayak.com/cfkt/trips/index.html
Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail - http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt/paddling/saltwater.htm

In paddling Florida, I suggest you consider these things which are different from our Northeast experience:

1. State parks are woven into many of the best paddling destinations. Many have camping, some have “cabins”, free standing cottages, bungalows and cabins, which rival good motels in price and usually sleep 6 comfortably with well equipped kitchens. The advantage to being in the parks is that most are open from around 8 AM to 5 PM or maybe sunset. Since your desired paddling may take you beyond those hours and since early morning and evening are the best times for wildlife watching, staying in the park will assure you the best opportunity to launch, land, walk and watch at your own convenience.
Here’s a link to Florida’s Parks - http://www.floridastateparks.org/
Reservations are made through Reserve America - http://www.reserveamerica.com/

2. Heed warnings about navigation in mangrove “swamps”. They form a far more complex network of ways than anything we’re familiar with and everything looks alike when you’re trying to find your way back! They are a prominent feature along brackish waters and coastal regions of south and central Florida. A ranger at “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island cautioned that even rangers and biologists get disoriented and often resort to flagging on their way out. Likewise for coastal marshes. They’re a great place to observe shorebirds but are far more expansive than we’re accustomed and contain many side channels and dead ends, natural and man-made, which form a labyrinth when you’re on your way out.

3. The natural dangers include alligators which aren’t really dangerous if you keep your distance and keep children and pets away from where they might be lurking. Keep hands and feet in the boat and take “swim at your own risk” seriously. Alligators are quick but don’t move very far to chase prey and they ideally like something that’s bite size and can swallow in only a few gulps. Still, they have powerful jaws and I was never able to find out what the best defense is if one has your leg tightly clenched in its sharp teeth … where to stab, kick, or gouge ... let me know if you’ve got some good ideas … another agenda item for the tailgate or campfire! Other dangers are several poisonous snakes, which are known to fall out of trees into boats, including rattlers, coral, copperheads and cottonmouths. The Florida Panther, though endangered, is seen quite a bit, even as elusive as they are. Take the same precautions as with mountain lions.

You will notice the frequent mention of outfitters to equip you with boats, gear and possibly shuttles. There are well over 100 in Florida, billed as the “paddling capital of the world”. Depending on your mode of transportation and how much affection you have for your own boat, you may wish to rent rather than haul, which typically costs 2-3 miles per gallon; thus the economics of renting, if not the convenience, might make sense. I’d also add that paddlers are generally quite welcome here … anything that draws visitors of any stripe is welcome … and most places are very accommodating to boating, whether it be power, sail or manual.

One more thing. The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree and the progeny of pirates still prowl so I would perform due diligence and be careful where I left a vehicle for overnight trips. I’ve had no bad experience in this regard but some sources caution about it.

 

[Stan]

Florida Paddling - 2011 (part II)

Our trip was a “lollipop loop”, down I-95 to Daytona, westward across the state to the Gulf of Mexico, down the Gulf Coast to the Everglades, back across the state to I-95 near West Palm Beach, then north. Lasting three weeks it covered a lot of distance but it was designed to get a taste and familiarity for a wide variety of paddling opportunities. Here are some highlights.

Tomoka State Park - We drove from the Boston area on Sunday morning, Tuesday afternoon we were paddling the Tomoka River, Strickland Creek and Tomoka Basin on the Halifax River, part of the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW). This sunny February day there were no boaters, just a few fishermen, but it could be a busier waterway in warmer weather and weekends. Venturing in the basin one must be cautious of the tides, mud flats, and winds. There is a lot to explore upstream instead, a welcoming taste of Florida to stretch out in after two days of driving. Located just north of Daytona Beach, other nearby paddles include Bulow Creek and Pellicer Creek. An 8 mile end to end, through quiet creek, ICW and open bay, from Bulow Creek to Tomoka River is possible with a car spot. There is an outfitter at Tomoka State Park.

Blue Springs State Park – This spring produces 100 million gallons of crystal clear water per day at a constant 72ºF which draws a variety of fish in the winter, not to mention manatees. It is about a mile between the spring and the St. Johns River and along that run is a walkway with several observation decks where I counted 30 manatees at once during the three walks in the afternoon, at dark and before sunrise. My morning walk was highlighted by two manatees apparently poking at or teasing a six foot alligator. The run resembles a fish hatchery, just loaded with gar, tarpon, and numerous other varieties. There is an outfitter and launch at the outlet of the run and another launch just outside the Park. We’re content to explore the nearby St. Johns and lagoon but a 13 mile circumnavigation of Hontoon Island, a state park with camping facilities accessible only by boat, is feasible.

Monet Morning on Blue Spring Run:

View attachment 3274

Juniper Spring – This is part of Ocala National Forest and has a campground. We arrived too late to paddle but you can do an interesting 7 mile end to end, the outfitter will return you, and your boat if you have your own, to the launch. It’s about ¼ mile to the launch, then about two miles of narrow, shallow crystal clear waters, then expanding to about 20-30 yards wide through Wilderness and small bluffs to a takeout on a state rt. 19. The nature trail is worth the walk and gives you a few peeks at the river trail.

Silver River State Park – Not to be confused with nearby Silver Springs Theme Park at the headwaters, this Park has camping and cabin accommodations. It is nearly 1½ mile portage over level graded trail or you can rent a kayak or canoe through the Park (boats at launch, rent at entrance gate). This is another clear and wild river and you can go upstream a couple miles and then, if you’ve spotted a car, 4 miles downstream to Ocala Boat Basin on state rt. 40. The unique features of this paddle are the monkeys! A handful of monkeys escaped during the filming of a movie many years ago and they’ve now established a couple of colonies which are usually pretty obvious as you paddle. Of course, there’s been a controversy; wildlife biologists want to remove them, others want to keep them. The argument for removing them is they’re not indigenous … which means, if you follow to its logical conclusion, then we should all get out! Personally, I admit these monkeys could become a nuisance but I’d focus on getting rid of pythons first for they’re for more dangerous to humans and predatory of many desired indigenous species.

Crystal River – This is on the Gulf of Mexico about 50 miles west of Silver Spring. I only mention it because it is one place where outfitters will provide you with wetsuits for snorkeling or diving and legally swimming with the manatees. There are several paddling opportunities nearby.

Anclote Key Preserve State Park – This beautiful undeveloped island is located in the Gulf of Mexico near Tarpon Springs and offers free camping on the north end of the island. It is about three miles long by ¼ mile wide,. The nearest launch for a daytrip 3 miles to the south end of the island, is from the causeway at Howard County Park. The best access to the north end of the island and an overnight trip is at Anclote Gulf Park, four miles to the island. This paddle is across exposed waters of the bay and during boating season there is a lot of traffic. We stayed close to Howard Beach since we didn’t make time to do a longer trip; there is little to recommend unless you do plan to go out to the island but Howard Beach is very clean, good restrooms, plenty of parking and free.

Fort DeSoto County Park – We paid 85¢ in bridge tolls to get to and use this park where I was told by a ranger that you may launch anywhere you can get your boat from the car to the water. It is located near Tampa/St.Pete. There is an outfitter where parking and launching is also permitted. We launched at a quiet spot near the park road along Soldiers Hole and paddled out into Mullet Key (the actual name of this island) Bayou. The mullets were jumping enthusiastically all around us … I expect the osprey appreciate this behavior. There is a canoe trail here and the guide book provided at the visitor center is a concise but informative description of what you’re seeing. After we landed we were treated to a 10 minute display of dolphins frolicking about in the water in front of the car. In the other direction we were treated to a beautiful sunset. This, as many Gulfside Parks, closes at dark, the sunsets being too beautiful to deny visitors the full enjoyment. Charlie had highly recommended this park and I agree. There are numerous paddle options depending on the wind. There is a campground, too.

Fort DeSoto sunset

View attachment 3275

Myakka State Park – Located near Sarasota, this park has camping, vintage CCC cabins, nature walks and trails including a tree canopy walkway and 70’ observation tower, an outfitter of course, and a very educational visitor center. There are a few places to launch but watch out for alligators. We stopped to watch three alligators, two in the water and a very large one on the shore, as paddlers approached coming down the Myakka River. The two in the water submerged and disappeared, the one on the beach just lay there. For all their size and intimidating appearance, alligators only have brains the size of two olives … apparently one is for catching food, the other for reproduction … I lost all respect for them knowing they are laying around thinking about nothing but food and sex! Which olive are you using today?

Blackwater River, Collier-Seminole State Park – This park is located between Naples and the Everglades and the paddle through mangroves is quintessential southwest Florida. A 13 mile loop is possible as the river splits a couple miles downstream from the launch but be careful, rangers have had to rescue boaters who get lost trying to find the way back from the bay through the mangroves and others who ignore the tides and get stuck on the flats in Mud Pond, an otherwise beautiful place to observe a colorful multitude of waterfowl. Outside the river there is the 10,000 Islands Aquatic Preserve. A float plan filed at the gate is required. Boats are available to rent at the launch. There is a campground here and a primitive remote campsite downstream. We’d paddle here again.

Blackwater River mangroves:

View attachment 3276

Mud Pond:

View attachment 3277

 

[Stan]

Florida Paddling - 2011 (part III)

Florida Panther National Wildlife Refuge – This refuge is located just north of Everglades City at I-75 exit 80 and I mention it because it was a most interesting 1 ½ mile walk. When we arrived, a red tailed hawk stood like a sentinel over the parking lot. A short distance down the trail we found the remains of a raccoon, a bit of tail fur and some bones. Raccoons are Florida Panther prey. Later we came across a five foot snake which we could not identify until later, a yellow rat snake. Harmless but occupying the entire width of the path, and more, we yielded the right of way. Then we came across a fresh pile of black bear scat and not long afterwards, a black bear which watched us for a while through the saw palmetto, palms and other trees. Then we came across several white tailed deer.

Path in Florida Panther NWR:

View attachment 3279

Loxahatchee Wild and Scenic River, Jonathon Dickinson State Park – Southeast Florida is more heavily populated and developed than the rest of the state and, notwithstanding the agreeable climate and scenery, there are fewer “pristine” places to paddle. The Loxahatchee River, upstream from Jonathon Dickinson State Park which is near Hobe Sound, offers this opportunity. There is an outfitter at the launch. Boats rented here are limited to Trapper Nelson Interpretive Site, 4 miles upstream. There is also a sightseeing boat which comes this far. The paddle is a beautiful and unique mix of mangroves, pines, palms and cypress. Downstream from the launch the river soon becomes developed and more heavily boated. This trip should not be confused with the 5 ½ mile paddle loop at Arthur Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge, some 40 miles to the south near West Palm Beach. We did not visit this location but I understand it is quite different, more closely resembling the comparatively barren saw grass marshes scattered with tree islands and more naturally similar to the Everglades.

Amelia Island – This is located on the Atlantic 20 miles northeast of Jacksonville, most northern island in Florida and my favorite in general. It’s been under 8 flags in over 500 years history. The oldest saloon in Florida, The Palace, is located here in the heart of old Fernandina Beach, a block from a genuine mix of working and recreational waterfront. Most paddling is in the extensive marshes, backwaters and Amelia River which separates this island from the mainland. There are at least five launch possibilities; the beach at Amelia Island State Park where you launch on the Nassau River just around the corner from the open ocean, Kayak Amelia on Talbot Island, Big Talbot Island State Park, Walkers Landing in Amelia Island Plantation, and Egan’s Creek near Fernandina Beach ($5 fee includes facilities and fresh water to wash down your boat). I had read of a launch at Fort Clinch State Park but they apparently don’t allow put in anywhere in the park. We explored the marsh along Egan’s Creek and learned that the route changes it appearance as well as its depth quickly once the tide turns! We had visions of the African Queen, stuck in the mud within yards of our destination … but we made it back in time for another sunset tailgate.

Cumberland Island National Seashore – Access to this island is from St. Marys, GA. It is a treasure of wildlife and history. The main attraction for me are the wild horses but alligators, wild hogs, armadillos and numerous shorebirds, permanent and migratory, abound here. There is also a fine inn, Greyfield, accessible from Fernandina Beach. The island has campsites, trails, biking and beaches and is worth a visit. The only paddling is through the inn.

Wild Horses at Dungeness Ruins:

View attachment 3280

 

[spider solo]

wealth of information !

Stan
That is great great source of information !!
A lot of work went into that. Very comprehensive !

I haven't read all of the text yet but I'm chipping away at it..seems I got stuck on that 1st picture of Fort De Soto...:->

Happy paddling...spdr

 

[Jay H]

Yeah, great info on Florida paddling!

Jay