Garfield, Franconia Ridge, Whaleback - Sat 10/1

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dr_wu002

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On Saturday, Jessbee and Dr. Wu met up at Lincoln Woods, spotted a car at Loon and drove over to Garfield for what was to be a fairly easy and spectacular (though sometimes frustrating) day in the woods. I'll get right to the details...

Garfield & Garfield Ridge Trail
The hike up Garfield is, as most people know, easy and nice. VFTT are incredible and since we got an early start, we had the summit all to ourselves. We spent a good 15 chilly minutes there before walking to Lafayette on the Garfield Ridge Trail which neither of us had ever been on before. The GRT is one of those trails people like to try and scare me about. I've hiked to Galehead from Garfield and that part is steep but nothing more. The section from Garfield to Lafayette though is one of the easiest sections of trail that I've come across in a while. I don't know what people are talking about -- there are NO difficult trails in the Whites, period.

Franconia Ridge - Elation/Frustration!
You actually pop above treeline on the GRT before you hit the Skoocumchuck trail! This section is quite amazing as is the long approach to Lafayette (over North Lafayette) which neither Jessbee or I have ever done before. The Lafayette Summit wasn't all that populated either so we had a nice time snacking, checking out the views, and relaxing before walking over to Truman and Lincoln. The ridge at this point was getting crowded so we moved quickly over Truman and hung out at the North Part of the Lincoln Summit to avoid the crowds. By the time we got to Little Haystack though I was convinced that they had rerouted I-93 over Franconia Ridge -- it was an almost unbroken line of people moving North on the trail! Little Haystack was a zoo!! We didn't stick around... figured Liberty would be less crowded.

Liberty wasn't. The trail over to Liberty was not crowded but Liberty itself was a nut house. The first thing we were greeted by was some 12 year old jerkoff throwing boulders off the Liberty Summit and his retarded parents lamely saying, "Darwin (can't remember name), don't throw rocks" which of course made the kid throw more. Jessbee suggested that having a dartgun would be fun but I told her, sardonically speaking of course, that a real gun would be more effective. However, I think "Darwin" will, one way or another, probably invent his own way to remove himself from the gene pool. Anyway, we went a little ways off the summit & find a quiet place to sit, eat and enjoy the views.

Whaleback
Our intention was to head down to Whaleback after Flume and out to our waiting car @ Loon. The Old Osseo Trail is easy to find and oddly enough, higher up it is well maintained (blowdown cut & removed; flagging; markers etc.) and gets a fair amount of travel. We were having a lot of fun – at one point you pass a section where it is steep on your left & there’s good views to Flume and also Guyot and Bond. After this point the trail gets a little more faint and we began encountering a lot of nasty blowdown that was actually easy to negotiate and pick up the trail again. Then we came to a section where the blowdown completely obliterated the trail… again, I angled hard around it but this time I couldn’t pick up the trail. At this point I made a foolish mistake: rather than head back to the trail and get my bearing, I started hunting around for the trail. I guess I was feeling overconfident because the trail had always been easy to pick up after the blowdown and I’m usually good at finding these things. Well, we ended up wandering all around, now bushwhacking, looking for the trail. After about 20 minutes and no trail I realized that we were lost – and it was getting late and the geography here was so ambiguous so rather than try to just find the summit (we were about 0.1 away from it when we lost the trail) I headed North, angling slightly East to a section where the trail was bounded by topography. This was slow going as well because now that you’re bushwhacking (it was thick) you can throw that 20 minutes/mile out the window. Luckily I easily found the trail but dicking around in the woods had cost us a decent amount of time so, rather than heading back to more unknown we decided to backtrack to the New Osseo Trail and take the easy and familiar way out.

No big deal – better safe than sorry, right? I could have found that section of blowdown and this time picked up the trail but after nearly 15-20 miles of hiking and darkness quickly approaching, I think this was probably the correct decision. Ironically, I felt great today. Throughout the whole trip, which with the BW was probably 20+ miles, I never felt tired even once. I could’ve hiked forever that day.

Retrospect
Really, this was a wonderful day. Garfield to Flume is just the most incredible hike I've been on since being in Iceland. It's open, the views are incredible, the weather was perfect! The crowds at one point or another were a bit much -- more than I had ever encountered on the ridge before -- but it didn't spoil the day. The walk on the Old Osseo Trail was a blast and the soft ground was a pleasant change after nearly an entire day on rough, rocky trail. Too bad we didn't find the summit but after a long day, although we both felt strong, doing something like this is a one shot deal. Either you find Whaleback or you go back. We went back and still had a great trip nonetheless.

Pictures
Later.

-Dr. Wu
 
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Nice!

We were actually wondering if we'd bump into you sitting on a rock somewhere on the ridge on Sunday. There were some crowd moments, but not nearly like you describe - the mob on Liberty, for example, was us. Flume had 4 other people. The rest of the ridge had a few clusters here and there.

It was a *great* weekend to be in the Whites!
:)
 
I second everything you said, Dr. Wu, the hike was phenomenal. The stretch of trail breaking out above treeline on the Lafayette approach had some of the most spectacular scenery I have seen in awhile. It was a long day, lots of miles, but worth every second and I'd do it again in a heartbeat. The weather was perfect, and it's too bad there were so many other folks who were up there. I'm not much of a summit lounger to begin with, so blowing past all the peaks was no big deal. I also appreciated the bushwhack because it was quiet, still, peaceful, and scenic in its own way. The VFTTs aren't everything.

What you forgot to mention was the amazing luck we had running into two hikers also fumbling out of the woods in the dark. With less than a mile to go, we met Tim and Tom who were struggling a bit with the weight they were carrying. So valiant Dr. Wu offered to lighten Tom's (or was it Tim's?) load and in they offered to give us a ride back back to Loon where the car was. Fortunately, neither of us had to degrade ourselves in exchange for a ride instead of doing a 3-mile road walk of hell. :D

I also felt strong and well all day, then got up to hike another 11 miles the next day with Artex (Wildcats, Carter, Hight). What an action-packed weekend! As soon as I get through all my pictures I'll post a link.
 
jessbee said:
What you forgot to mention was the amazing luck we had running into two hikers also fumbling out of the woods in the dark. With less than a mile to go, we met Tim and Tom who were struggling a bit with the weight they were carrying. So valiant Dr. Wu offered to lighten Tom's (or was it Tim's?) load and in they offered to give us a ride back back to Loon where the car was. Fortunately, neither of us had to degrade ourselves in exchange for a ride instead of doing a 3-mile road walk of hell. :D
Actually -- I didn't forget. I was hoping someone would ask so that I could publicly thank them (even though I don't think they read VFFT often) in a separate post.

We put on headlamps at about 1 mile from the Osseo - Lincoln Woods Junction. About 0.5 from the parking area we caught up with 2 hikers. These were the only 2 people we'd seen since Flume Summit (other than the 2 of us, we saw each other incidentally) and I was going to ask anyone, even if they were Charles Manson and Mike Tyson, for a ride because there was no way in hell I was walking 3 or 4 miles along the Kanc in the dark.

It turned out that they had done a fair bit of mileage w/ heavy packs and the older gentleman, Tom I believe, was struggling. I offered to take his pack and gave him mine although I would have just as gladly strapped my pack to his. I felt strong and wouldn't have had a problem with both. Surprisingly we all hiked out at quite a fast pace though! My pack seemed to help Tom out quite a bit.

We had quite a bit of nice conversation... it turns out that Tom, 64, is finishing his NH48 with a traverse on Wildcat next weekend! Congratulations, Tom! I believe the other gentleman was named Tim but I'm horrible with names. Tim gave us a ride back in his truck which was quite appreciated! Thanks guys! It was nice to be able to help out someone who was about to give you a hand!

-Dr. Wu
 
Great pics!

The foundation is from an old hotel that once stood atop Mt. Lafayette's summit. There was even a place for your horse to stay, because believe it or not, you rode that horse up the aptly-named Old Bridle Path.
 
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