Great Range Traverse - 6/25

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mtn.goat

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Nov 29, 2004
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Location
Hurley, NY
Well I had been planning this hike for quite some time as I seem to be stuck in this cycle of topping my previous hike (almost like I'm competing against myself :D ) having already done the Escarpment Hike and Devil's Path in the past few weeks. I almost had to cancel the whole trip but at the last minute things changed and I was again able to do the hike.

I started at the Roostercomb Trailhead (I thought the Great Range Traverse included this but it seems that not everyone includes Roostercomb and Hedgehog in their traverse) at 4AM. I knew it was going to be a warm day because I could already feel a warm breeze and it was only 4AM :eek: ! It was the first time I've hiked at night and I really enjoyed it. I found that the trail markers glow at night just like traffic signs on the highway. I made it up to Roostercomb in about 45 minutes watched the sun begin to rise and then took off. The trail was really washed out in sections due to the rains the previous week or two. This was my first time hiking most of these mountains (except for Marcy) so it was really nice to see all this "new stuff" and scenery. I plodded along at my usual pace up and over Lower and Upper Wolf Jaw enjoying being back in the Adk's (first time for the summer) having done my previous two big hikes in the Catskills. Due to the false summits I was having a hard time gauging where I was on the trail and the false/incorrect mileages on the trail signs didn't make matters any easier. They all seemed to disagree with each other. Most of the peaks were a blur.

I definately enjoyed the breeze or rather I should say gusts of wind at the peaks (the wind was strong enough to force me to lean into it at times). I quickly made it over Armstrong, Gothics. I found that my pace was being slowed by the downhill stretches and I definately didn't enjoy going down Gotchics via the cables or the frequent climbs that I had to climb down. I kept finding myself dropping my poles down and then climbing down to them.
It was definately getting hot out and I found that I had drank my whole 4liter supply of water by the time I was at the base of Saddleback. I was worried about getting dehydrated and knew that making it to Marcy by 11 or 12 was less important than refueling my water supplies (although I was still very well hydrated). I ended up filtering water out of the biggest puddles I could find and after a long delay (I had to go to 2 different puddles just to get a liter of water :eek: ) I proceeded up Saddleback. I enjoyed the views from the peaks but it was hazy out. I put some suntan lotion on (which should have been frequently reapplied in retrospect due to the heat and sweating) and eventually made it to Basin. My knees were starting to ache a little and the enormous descent down and then climb of Haystack and Marcy was not making me very happy but I knew I had to do it. I kept repeating only two more peaks to go then 9 miles of downhill. Going down Basin was by far the worst descent of the whole trip and I ended up getting a nice scrape on one knee and an elbow along the way.

I filtered some water at the bottom and then proceeded to start the climb up to haystack. I was kind of disappointed at how long it was taking me to do the hike seeing as it was about a quarter to 11 or so and I still hadn't summited Haystack. I ran into Guinness near the top of Little Haystack and felt better after he informed me that I was flying. Made it to the top of Haystack sometime after 11 and sat and realaxed for a bit talking to Guinness and another hiker from Albany. I could see Marcy in the distance and knew that the day was almost done. I proceeded on wishing Guinness and the other hiker good luck. I started down and then back up to the summit of Marcy plodding along and drinking frequently. At the base of the "alpine area" I got some new energy (it could've been the fact that I was annoyed at the damn tourists who kept wining about how hot it was... and they had no idea how far i had come) and flew up to the summit of Marcy blowing by people along the way. It felt great and I made it from that start of the alpine area to the summit in about 5-10 minutes and was on top at 1:00. I stopped at the top for a rest and was surprised that there was only about 20 people on top (the heat must've scared most people away). I was surprised that it had taken me so long to make it to Marcy at roughly 8 hours of hiking or 9 hours with breaks over around 16-17 miles.

The 9 mile hike out to the garden was pretty uneventful except for a fawn and it's mother that I scared. I spoke to a DEC Ranger at the DEC post down near JBL who was really nice. I switched back onto autopilot and found myself at the garden at 4:30... 12.5 hours since I had started. I got a ride from the shuttle bus and did the 3 hour drive back to my house enjoying the AC and marveling at the fact that the temp gauge in my jeep read 85 which considering that it was 5PM meant that it had gotten really hot that day :eek:. I ended up going through 9 liters of water.

As for the heat... it's strange to say but i didn't mind it as much as i thought i would've, i guess i'm getting used to it... I went through alot of water and sweated up a storm but I didn't feel like i was going to melt or anything (although don't get me wrong I didn't enjoy the heat one bit or the rediculous humidity). Just like on the Devil's Path a few weeks prior I found that i would reach a level on the climbs where I couldn't possibly get any hotter and I just had to deal with being sweaty and I would reach the summit, cool off, do the descent and do the whole thing all over again. My knees ached on the ride home but I woke up the next day feeling great without any aches or soreness. Now all that's left is to plan the next big hike/challenge :D .
 
Mtn. Goat it was good seeing you again and congrats an a nice job traversing the Great Range this day. Hot as it was, made your efforts that much more successful. Watching you made me wonder what it was like being young again!

It was good to hear you complain about your knees coming off Basin. Now you know why I start on Marcy so the steep sections on Basin and Saddleback are in front of me going up, not down.
 
Congratulations mtn. goat on dayhiking the range in a day and in heat that kept most people indoors this weekend. Great trip report. Now I really can’t wait to hike the range in two weeks, although I don’t plan on dayhiking the whole thing in one day.
 
Guinness... after running into you at first I couldn't understand why anyone would want to start in the opposite direction as I had gone. But after thinking about it more and more I think the next time I do this hike I will go in reverse and start early enough to be on top of Marcy by sunrise and then when you are done you are really done (meaning that when you hit the last peak there is much less than a 9mi hike back to the car). Ending on Roostercomb with a nice easy 2.5 mi hike down would've been much nicer than the long slog back to the garden. With my new appreciation of night hiking I see myself doing this hike again in a month or two (on a much cooler day with less hazy views). It was nice running into you again.

Oh and lumberzac just because you're not doing the whole thing in a day doesn't mean anything because that weekend of hiking you plan is not for the faint of heart :eek: . Good luck and enjoy! I would go but there's a beer festival in Syracuse that weekend calling my name :D .
 
Nice Report!

mtn.goat said:
Guinness... after running into you at first I couldn't understand why anyone would want to start in the opposite direction as I had gone. But after thinking about it more and more I think the next time I do this hike I will go in reverse and start early enough to be on top of Marcy by sunrise and then when you are done you are really done (meaning that when you hit the last peak there is much less than a 9mi hike back to the car).

The "secret" to doing a Great Range hike (when you are older and wiser :D ) is to start at the Loj/HPIC and end in Keene Valley. The elevation gain going from KV to the Loj is 9500ft. The elevation gain from the Loj to KV is 8400ft. It took me years to learn that! :D

The Garden elevation is 1523
The Loj/HPIC elevation is 2179
Keene Valley elevation is 1050
 
Beverly,

I've been there done that (Loj-to-Garden). I just wanted to do another route. In all my trips on the Great Range, I have never done it out from the Garden up the Hopkins Trail. Next time I plan on Elk Lake / Panther Gorge to Garden as an overnight. Not this year though.

Ed
 
Guinness said:
Beverly,

I've been there done that (Loj-to-Garden). I just wanted to do another route. In all my trips on the Great Range, I have never done it out from the Garden up the Hopkins Trail. Next time I plan on Elk Lake / Panther Gorge to Garden as an overnight. Not this year though.

Ed

Last year when I backpacked over the range (same route as mnt. goat’s route) my buddy and eye ran into a guy on Saddleback that was dayhiking the range the other way. He had started that morning from Elk Lake. I don’t know if he completed the range or not that day, but he was moving at a good pace and showed no signs of fatigue, so I imagine he was able to finish.
 
Holy smokes Mtn Goat! I heard Artex and Pennsy singing your praises after the Devil's Path, but didn't realize you had such a buttkicker habit! This sounds like a great day! I have done a couple of night hikes and really like the difference in experience - not to mention the cooler temps. Also, seeing the sunrise is like being reborn.
I am looking forward the 'Altitude' hike Lumberzac coordinated in 2 weeks - my first trip to the 'dacks. :)
 
Pros and Cons

Guinness -
Even though "starting" on Marcy in the morning (from the Loj) is a little easier, I find it more rewarding to finish on Marcy in the evening in the dwindling light. It makes for a more dramatic hike and maybe an easier end - as I'm always finishing late in the evening. :D
 
Congrats Dave, nice report... I guess the trail is fairly dry, that's what I remember it though. I've backpacked it over 2 nights or so.

Would you think it would be a safe, doable hike for the masses, like a charity hike next year?

Jay
 
mtn.goat said:
As for the heat... it's strange to say but i didn't mind it as much as i thought i would've, i guess i'm getting used to it...

Nah, you're just not old enough to feel the heat yet. ;)
kidding of course, and I'm glad to see that the Devil's Path didn't slow you down much. Nice going.
 
great hike Dave
The more you hike the harder it will be to find something more challenging.
Sounds like a fast hike in any weather but in the heat wow. Enjoy the pain.
The question is...What next?
Al
 
Dave, we saw your entry at the trailhead and were about 1 1/2 hours behind you at the start. The extremely hot and humid weather conspired to slow this old guy down and we had a considerably slower though very satisfying trip also. It sure is a spectacular trip. Jay, to answer your question, I did the same hike the same day and I'll do a TR later. We started at the Garden at 5 and hiked to Keene Valley to the trailhead. With plenty of summit lounging we hiked back out at 9:45 pm. The trails are much steeper than the other 2 Catskill hikes. Some of the descents especially require good route picking and care. I would rate it a little tougher than the DP mostly because the biggest climbs are after you have already gone over 6 4,000 footers :eek: .
 
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Wow

I just wanted to put my 2 cents in...

VERY impressive feat this weekend, Mtngoat... unfortunately I doubt many here in these forums understand what an undertaking a Great Range traverse is. After years of hiking in the White Mountains of NH and Green Mtns of VT, and finishing my 48, including many insane Presi traverses, Cats/Carters traverses, a Long Trail thru-hike, speed hiking feats, etc... I got my first taste of the Adirondacks over the weekend with a Wright/Algonquin/Iroquois/Marcy/Skylight/Haystack/Basin/Saddleback/Gothics/Armstrong/Upper/Lower Wolfjaw traverse (although I overnighted at Panther Gorge along the way :D ) and I must say it kicked my butt! The 'Daks, and especially the Great Range, are considerably tougher than anything I have encountered in the Whites - much tougher than a Presi Traverse.

So, my hat's off to you. Keep it up! From one speed hiker to another: very nicely done.
 
Thanks for all the kind words.
-Albee
That's quite a hike you did. Now you have me thinking... how can i do a great range traverse and do a McIntire (sp?) range traverse in one day or a weekend :eek:

I'd have to agree with everyone in that this is not an easy hike at all. Definately the hardest hike I've done this year and definately harder than the Devil's Path. The amount of vertical and distance are pretty close to the DP but it's much more rugged in the Adk's and the descents and climbs are much steeper and there is ALOT more climbing involved. I can't compare to NH because I've never been there (yet).

As for what is next... hmmm... well I have the Wakely Dam Ultra coming up in a few weeks then it's back to hiking/backpacking. I'll more than likely do the Great Range Traverse again in August but start from Keene (following the route of Guinness) but after summiting Marcy (and watching the sun rise) doing Skylight then going up and over the backside of Haystack and then going all the way to Roostercomb. From my calculations it would be about 12-13000 feet of elevation gain over about 27 miles of hiking. :D
 
mtn.goat,

I've been enjoying reading the great range thread!

My wife and I do the range as an annual day trip. We go from the Roostercomb trailhead to Marcy, and then out via John's brook. She takes about 12 hours from the Roostercomb trailhead to the Garden parking lot. Wev'e talked about actually summiting Roostercomb (like in the old days), or making the side trip to the summit of Haystack, but she would rather forego those, as the range trail itself is quite enough!

Here are a few other "ultra" hike ideas in the area:

If you have someone who can spot a car, it would be cool to do the range, and then go out to upper works. You could throw in as many additional peaks as you wanted: Skylight, Grey, Cliff or Redfield (those are very time consuming), Marshall, even Algonquin.

A good hike we did a few years ago as training for the range was to start at the Loj, do Algonquin, descend into Avalanche Pass, do Colden up the trap dike and down the 1992 slide, and then do Marcy and out the Van Hoevenberg trail. That one actually proved to be tougher than the range, even though it's shorter and has less vertical. I think it was because of the size of the ups and downs.

Another one for multiple cars, that I did a few years ago, is to start in New Russia, do RPR and Giant, then continue on to do all the Dixes and finish at Elk Lake. That one has the advantage of being able to spot a resupply cooler on Route 73, so you can travel really light over RPR and Giant.

Fun stuff!
 
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