High Peaks Campgrounds, etc

[miehoff]

Howdy friends and neighbors. It has been a while since I posted, but I still love you guys. I am glad this site is still going strong because I have a question that only the folks on VFTT could answer.

I have acquired a week off (this coming week, starting Sunday), and since it is a bit of a drive for me to get the the High Peaks region, I thought that would be the best way to spend my time. So, on Sunday, off I go for 3 or 4 days. I have three options that I have been thinking about. Each option will be followed by a question that I hope you will be able to answer.

Here the options are:

Opt 1: Stuff my pack with all my gear and walk into the woods, basecamping at a campsite (preferably not a lean-to) and hiking, or doing a loop that will take 3 or so days, maybe basecamping to hit some peaks. This loop will get me back to my starting point. Question: Can someone give me an idea on a place that is quiet, beautiful and less travels, but close to some tall peaks that will give me good views? It might be easier to basecamp in order to do this, but I am willing to carry around my pack in order to cover more ground. Note: I am in very good shape due to a lot of biking, but my hiking muscles are a bit less tended to.

Opt 2: Stay at a super cool, clean, quiet, secluded, and beautiful campground that is close to many hikes (ie:Marcy). I don't mind paying, but I really want it to be quiet and I don't want to be right on top of my neighbors. Question: Can I get a few campground ideas. It will be during the week, so I am assuming they won't be full. Are there any with walk in sites?

Opt 3: Drive to a noisy campground with a pool, sit around all week drinking beer, eating and farting. Question: Should I be ashamed?

Thanks so much for the info. I am a bit clueless when it comes to NY stuff. Any other info that you have that you might want to include (hikes, favorite areas, restaurants, etc) I would appreciate it. I am hoping to have the time of my like.

 

[Raymond]

The only campgrounds I've stayed at in the Adirondacks were Ray Brook and Wilmington Notch. Ray Brook is right behind Tail o' the Pup, a big cookout place on the side of the road. It's like the world's biggest pushcart vendor. On Route 73, near Saranac Lake.

Wilmington Notch is along Route 85, heading up toward (surprise!) Wilmington, tucked in the shadow of Whiteface Mountain. When we stayed there one October, we practically had the place to ourselves.

You probably want something more backcountry than those places. Will you be bringing your cardboard box? I think any place in the High Peaks region requires a bear-proof canister for your food and other smelly stuff.

For Lake Placid restaurants, we always have dinner at Cameron's. Breakfast at The Black Bear, at the other end of town.

 

[MattC]

Even mid-week in the High Peaks it might be hard to get total solitude, but you can probably at least avoid large crowds. For car-camping options:

Here is the interactive map of state campgrounds:
http://www.dec.state.ny.us/website/do/camping/adirondacks.html
Raymond mentions Wilmington Notch, which is great if you're hiking Whiteface or other peaks in the Northern area. Sharp Bridge is just Southeast of the High Peaks, and Lake Harris is a good one for access to the Upper Works trailhead. All may be quiet, or somewhat crowded, you never know. One caveat about Sharp Bridge and Wilmington Notch-they're both fairly close to major roads. You could always call and talk to caretakers at any of these places to get a feel for what they might be like at any given time. You don't necessarily need reservations at any of these places. You can ask the caretaker how many sites are available a night or two before you go.

For quick access to the Heart Lake trailhead, you could stay at the Heart Lake "Wilderness Campground" which is on the Adirondack Mountain Club property along w/ the Adirondack Loj.
http://www.adk.org/ad_wilderness/index.aspx
That campground is a bit more expensive than the state places, but you have to pay to park in that lot for dayhiking anyway, plus you're basically sleeping at the trailhead when you stay there. If I am hiking something in the Marcy area, I would personally rather car-camp at the Heart Lake campground instead of backcountry camp. Backcountry camping areas in the Marcy Dam-Avalanche-Lake Colden-Flowed Lands corridor tend to be somewhat busy (albeit less so during the week), plus the bear problem. You can also "primitive" car-camp at South Meadows, a little North of Heart Lake.

If you do backcountry camp, you might have luck going in from Upper Works and staying somewhere around Uphill Brook or Feldspar Brook. As w/ everywhere, the further in you go, the less likely you are to see crowds-probably. Other options would be packing into Bushnell Falls or Slant Rock from the Garden, or Panther Gorge from Elk Lake. Don't forget the bear canister if you go to any of these places.

If you want something outside the Eastern High Peaks, maybe try the Sewards. If you choose option 3, I wouldn't be ashamed, but I don't know if I'd drive all that far just for that.

Matt

 

[Pete_Hickey]

While smoewhat far from the Marcy area, the Sharp Bridge campground is relatively close to the Dixes (both sides), and not too bad for getting to Giant-stuff and the Garden. It is somewhat quiet if you choose a site that is LOW, not high. The border patrol's rumble strips on the Northway have turned an extremely quiet campground into a place that can be hard to sleep.

If you want the Loj area, note that if you camp at the Loj's campgrounds, the fact that you leave your car at the campground, and walk to the trails means that you are not paying for parking, so you should consider that in the prices. Call soon, because they fill up fast.

 

[lumberzac]

What about a loop from Coreys Road?
Day 1 – Hike in from Correy. Hike the Calkins Brook Truck Trail (130 in ADK Guide) to the Northville-Placid Trail near Shattuck Clearing. Camp at one of the Cold River lean-tos
Day 2 – Hike up the Cold River Valley along the NPT to Duck Hole.
Day 3 – Hike to Ward Brook Truck Trail to Ward Brook area & set up a base camp. Hike up Seymour Mountain
Day 4 – Hike the Sewards, take down camp and hike back to Coreys Road.

The only problem is you most likely would be staying in a lean-to at Cold River, but you most likely won’t see a single person there except maybe a NPT thru-hiker.

 

[Oldsmores]

Without a doubt, take door #1. Park at The Garden in Keene Valley, hike in to the John's Brook Lodge area (3 miles). There are designated camping areas at Slide Brook (just before you get to the lodge) and just beyond the lodge, or you can go a couple more miles to Bushnell Falls. Since you'll be there doing the week the crowds should be minimal.
From a basecamp near John's Brook you can do day hike loops of Marcy-Haystack, Basin-Saddleback, Gothics-Armstrong-Upper Wolfjaws (or any combination of the above), and Big Slide-Brothers. Great views from all.
Drive in to Lake Placid to the LP Brewpub for some Ubu ale.
I'm jealous. Enjoy!

 

[teejay]

All of the above, plus

There are a number of designated car camping spots on Corey's Road. Pretty quiet except for the occasional car. It's posssible some of these sites might get "partied" from time to time but I haven't seen it. Last time in, on a Thursday, none of the sites were occupied. Convenient to the Sewards and Seymour as well as to run into Tupper or Saranac for civilization/dinner.

In Newcomb there's Lake Harris, a state campground. You may need to book a reservation at an outrageous fee to some bunch (ReserveAmerica) who does it for the state. Quiet, on the lake. Free showers but annoying. They're set up like a flush toilet. You flush to start the water. Start to, flush, wet down, flush, shamp-, flush, poo, flush, soap-, flush, up, soap, flush, some more. You get the idea. There's another private CG in Newcomb about 1/10 mile west of the school right on Rt. 28N. Behind the diner. Showers, flush toilets. I think it's called Cedar Pond. Great access to Upper Works, Santanonis, Allen, Flowed Lands, Lake Colden, etc. and also to Elk Lake. I think they will take walk-ins but you will be taking your chances at any of the state facilities as they're all popular. Might be worth a shot, though, 'cause I think there was a $9 fee to make the reservation through RA.

Whipering Pines is on Rt. 73 about 2 miles (toward Keene) from the road in to Heart Lake. A little noisy from the road but if you're there you can drink beer, eat all you want and nobody will hear you fart over the road noise. They even have a lean-to and cabins. The rest rooms/showers are great.

ADK's Heart Lake property and facilities are great. Lean-tos, tent sites, canvas cabins, and the Loj. Fairly quiet and convenient to so many mountains. Call ahead. A little pricey even if you're an ADK member.


These are just some of the places I've stayed at and are all pretty civilized. I'm sure you'll get more suggestions.

teejay

 

[percious]

Paradox Lake

Paradox Lake is close to the northway, a 20-30 minute drive to Keene Valley, offers a nice beach and some decent lots. I often use it for a base-camp.

-percious

 

[miehoff]

Tentsite or Lean-to?

Without a doubt, take door #1. Park at The Garden in Keene Valley, hike in to the John's Brook Lodge area (3 miles). There are designated camping areas at Slide Brook (just before you get to the lodge) and just beyond the lodge, or you can go a couple more miles to Bushnell Falls. Since you'll be there doing the week the crowds should be minimal.
From a basecamp near John's Brook you can do day hike loops of Marcy-Haystack, Basin-Saddleback, Gothics-Armstrong-Upper Wolfjaws (or any combination of the above), and Big Slide-Brothers. Great views from all.
Drive in to Lake Placid to the LP Brewpub for some Ubu ale.
I'm jealous. Enjoy!

Oldsmores,

Are the places at bushnell falls campsites or lean-to's? I kinda hate lean-to's, and I would rather a pad or a platform, or whatever.

Thanks a ton.

 

[Oldsmores]

miehoff-
There are both leanto's and designated campsites at Bushnell Falls - however, you won't find pads or platforms in the High Peaks area. Campsites are just that, level patches of ground where you can pitch a tent. They generally have easy access to water, and in most cases there's a privy or two in the vicinity.

 

[miehoff]

Ahhh...

Just as I suspected, lots of info. Thanks so much. I have my maps and my guide out. I have two days to dream and to plan. I am leaning in the direction of backpacking. I think I will go to the store and buy a canister since I don't want to rent one...although I might give that a shot, since EMS is walking distance from my house.

Should I worry about leaving a tent, etc if I basecamp?

 

[rdl]

Knock on wood...

In 20+ years of camping in the Adirondacks I've never had anything stolen or messed with.

If basecamping, consider hiking in to Panther Gorge from Elk Lake. Climb Marcy, Skylight and/or Haystack from there. That's a more remote access point, and those three peaks can't be beat...

 

[bubba]

Miehoff!! Was wondering where we lost you to!! Good to see you back.

All of the above... I don't think Wispering Pines is as noisy as TeeJay says.. but it is not solitude... nice but a campground that caters to all.

Backpacking the ADK's is best. Think about going in from Upper Works and playing around at some of the smaller LeanTo camping areas. I thought that going up the Op Trail to the Uphill L/T was excellent - the tent areas are nice and hikes convenient to Marcy, Grey, Skylight and then Redfield and Cliff to give you a real feel for ADKland. Colden is just a short hike away. Others have stayed at Feldspar L/T and really liked it (no experience here).

No problem leaving stuff around. If you come in from the Garden and head into JBL, for more than two nights, you are better off staying low. You'll run out of options with a B/P on after a night or two. Staying low opens up more options for several days. Backpacking on the Range Trail is not something most want to do -- hiking in the ADK's works better as base with daytrips.

Let us know if you have questions...

 

[Oldsmores]

...I think I will go to the store and buy a canister since I don't want to rent one...although I might give that a shot, since EMS is walking distance from my house.

Should I worry about leaving a tent, etc if I basecamp?

If you decide to go in from the Garden, you can also rent a canister at The Mountaineer in Keene Valley. It's worth a stop there just to browse, get the latest weather report and trail conditions, etc.
I've never had a problem with leaving tents and gear for the day...
Enjoy!

 

[miehoff]

Upper Works - vs - The Garden

Yes, Bubba, it is nice to be back, thanks.

About 4 years ago, I hiked into Lake Colden from Upper Works. I got to the trailhead around 3pm and hiked in as a cold front moved in with me. When I got to Flowed Land it was 10 degrees and I was tired, hungry, and after sinking into mud/ice pits along the trail, I was wet and dirty. I was bummed, so I went to bed hungry. When I woke up, I immediatly was welcomed by sun and the sight of two cute little chipmonks screwing about 10 feet from my tent.

I stayed 4 nights in that area. It was 10 degrees every night and I had a 30 degree bag. I was a working musician at the time, so I was used to going to bed at 2-3am every night. This was November, and I realized that it got dark at 5pm. So I laid in my tent every night, freezing my ass off while I listened to the bears play tag with my canister. It was sort of a beautiful hell. I was miserable, but I could not get over the wonderfulness of the area. I always wanted to go back under more favorable conditions. I think I only saw 2 people the whole time.

So now I am torn. I want to go to Upper Works and hike that way in, but I have heard that even during the week in the summer, there are a lot of folks there. I can also imagine that any reasonable hike in from the Garden is also a bit more crowded than some other areas.

So as I whittle down my choices, I realize that if I am slick about it I can hike in from either location and get solitude and have access to 3 or so days of high peaks.

Specifically, here are the considerations:

• Campsites (not lean-tos) off the beaten path
• 5-7 mile hike in
• Water availability (swimming?)
• Lacking of serious bear activity
• Access to several peaks

Thanks again. I will choose after this last neurotic post. I am so excited, I was thinking of leaving tonight, hehe...

 

[miehoff]

One more thing...

Neurotic moment:

If I hike in from the Garden for a few days. What peaks should I do? I was thinking a Marcy loop one day, and they next....?

Thanks again. Sorry to be a pest.

 

[Raymond]

You’ll be right there in the midst of Lower and Upper Wolf Jaws, Armstrong, Gothics, Saddleback, Basin, Haystack, Marcy, and Big Slide, all four thousand-footers. Yard is another that should probably be on the Forty-Sixers’ list, but isn’t.

 

[miehoff]

Thanks again!

I am outta here in 30 minutes.

 

[MattC]

One last thing to mention if you're still online. If you park at the Garden, there is a $5 per day fee. Have a great time, whatever you choose.

Matt