Highpointing in Oklahoma, New Mexico & Colorado

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poison ivy

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Mansfield, MA Avatar: Mt. Whitney, CA
Our initial plan for our western highpointing trip was to visit the highpoints of Utah, New Mexico & Colorado. but we ended up nixing the backpacking trip to Utah's Kings Peak due to lousy weather at the beginning of our vacation. Instead, we hit the highpoints of Nebraska and Kansas, which I won't bother to go on about since they were just drive ups (got to keep our 'granny status' after all.)

Black Mesa, Oklahoma: July 11
Our first real hike of the trip was the 8.4 mile trip up Oklahoma's 4,973-foot highpoint - Black Mesa. This hike, which only has 650 feet or so of elevation gain, was harder than we expected because the temperature was close to 90 degrees. You know you're in trouble when even the cacti are shriveled and brown.

The first couple of miles of the trail are on very flat ground and what I remember most about the trip, aside from the heat, is that the small bushes along the trail were humming. I don't know what insect lives in those bushes, but boy is it noisy! It was already hot when we got on the trail at 9 a.m. and even the cows wandering the area were attempting to hide under these small bushes that provided little to no shade.

After a few miles, we started switchbacking up to the top of the mesa and I started really suffering from heat exhaustion. My head was pounding and Shaggy said my face was about as red as our rental car. We found one spot of shade near the top of the mesa, so we sat there for a while pouring water over our heads (fortunately, we brought a lot of extra.) Once I cooled off a little bit, we headed across the mostly flat mesa to the summit marker - an obelisk that gives the mileage to points in each compass direction - including 1,600 miles to New York City.

Atop the highpoint, we met a woman from Illinois who was planning to spread some ashes from her husband, who had died a year ago. They started highpointing together and she planned to spread his ashes at each one they hadn't done together. Not wanting to interfere with her intentions, we didn't stay up top very long.

It was a long four miles back to the car - since it was getting close to noon and the little pieces of shade had completely disappeared. Shaggy beat me back to the car by about a half-hour because I was stopping every 15 minutes to spill more water over my head.

Pictures from Oklahoma's Black Mesa can be found here

Wheeler Peak, New Mexico: July 12
I really had to drag myself out of bed when the alarm went off at 5 a.m. so that we could hit the road for the Taos Valley Ski Area to start our hike. You have two choices for hiking Wheeler Peak - a seven-mile round trip hike that was reputed to be very steep or a 14-mile more gradual ascent that actually has more elevation gain. Both Shaggy and I voted for the steeper, shorter option and headed to the Williams Lake trailhead at the ski area. The hike starts at 10,000 feet or so and doesn't gain much elevation in the
initial two-mile jaunt to Williams Lake, which we started at 6 a.m. There were tons of wildflowers studding the trail to the lake, along with great views of the surrounding peaks from small talus fields along the way.

Shaggy called the lake itself "a puddle" because it is rather small, but it is basically enclosed by a ring of high peaks, making for a very pretty setting at 11,500 feet. We stopped for a break and took lots of pictures before heading down the trail to the steep climb to Wheeler's summit, another 1.5 miles away. Shaggy gained another 200 feet of elevation before he started feeling a little queasy - he doesn't do well with altitude. He
opted to wait for me back at Williams Lake, where he spent the morning taking some awesome pictures of the resident marmots and chipmunks.

I was feeling great and headed up the trail, which I had been warned was so steep I would be doing some scrambling. The warning proved not to be true. For the majority of the hike up to the ridge, it was basically like climbing up to Carter Dome from the notch - steep and slow going, but nothing terribly difficult terrain wise. Once the trail pops up to through the trees, you wind through a series of alpine meadows, framed with gorgeous
strands of wildflowers and marauding marmots.

As I hiked up one small rise, I was excited to see the curl of a big-horned sheep's horn right above my head. I was disappointed when that sheep galloped away across the trail and out of sight. However, within five minutes I arrived on the top of the rise to find a whole herd of sheep. They stood there and stared at me for a while before heading off down a steep slope. I didn't care if I made the summit or not after that - I was so thrilled to watch those sheep. I later saw another pair from afar clomping across the summit ridge.

I should mention the views along the trail were just spectacular, as I gained more ground, I was getting increasingly better views of the surrounding peaks. I oohed and ahhed a lot, taking tons of pictures of the beautiful landscape - I never imagined that New Mexico would look so green.

The most difficult part of the hike was the final .3 of a mile up to the ridge, which was a huge scree slope. I had to fight my way up, slipping backwards with about every other footstep. I think I managed to get myself off the path and mired in scree that I didn't even need to be in. I saw one other atop the ridge waving to me as I battled my way up. he was on his way down from the summit and heading off toward Mt. Walter on the other, longer
trail. So when I finally got to the top of the ridge, I was alone on top of New Mexico.

I arrived on the 13,161-foot summit of Wheeler Peak after three and a half hours of hiking, to be greeted by crystal blue skies and a gorgeous series of mountains bumping away from the peak in all directions. I spent about 20 minutes on the summit, signing the register and enjoying the views, before I turned back to head down the ridge.

It was a little challenging getting down the scree field - I ended up doing a reverse crabwalk-glissade type of move, really wishing that I had brought my trekking poles. The trail winding its way down through the alpine meadows really reminded me of the scenery we had seen in New Zealand. Once I made it through the scree, it was an easy hike back down to the car, where Shaggy arrived about 20 minutes before I did at 11:30 a.m.

I have to say that New Mexico's highpoint ranks as one of my all-time favorites (rightafter Mt. Whitney & Katahdin.) it was truly just a beautiful hike.
Pictures from New Mexico's Wheeler Peak can be found here
 
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Mt Elbert

Mt. Elbert, Colorado: July 14:

Hauling myself out of my sleeping bag at 5 a.m. for the hike up Mt. Elbert proved a little easier than waking Shaggy. He decided he would rather sleep in than hike. though he didn't end up sleeping all that long after waking up to find a chipmunk had crawled into the tent and was standing atop his sleeping bag. I'm not sure who was more startled!

Prior to his adventure with the chipmunk, Shaggy drove me the mile over to the Mt. Elbert trailhead and I started my nine-mile hike to the top of Colorado at 5:30 a.m. on what would turn into an absolutely gorgeous day. The initial miles of the trail coincide with the Colorado Trail and I immediately began questioning whether I was heading the wrong way because the trail was incredibly easy. I had been expecting a super steep trail the whole way because the trip up Mt. Elbert has 4,550 feet of elevation gain.
I needn't have worried because the trail soon began climbing and would be
fairly relentless for the rest of the trek up to the summit.

My first views of the day came as I approached treeline of some of the ridges along nearby Mt. Massive. Once you get past the last of the pine trees, you have a great view of a false summit that you climb up for about two eternities while the trail switchbacks up meadows and past scree slopes. The false peak was beautiful with the moon hanging over its side, which helped to abate the feeling of dread I had seeing the trail snake its way up to the top far ahead of me.

As I hiked up the trail, I met a 68-year-old man from Tuscon who was hiking his second 14'er, having hiked Mt. Whitney two years ago. He had originally planned to acclimatize today and hike the peak tomorrow, but was lured out to the peak by the beautiful weather. He left me in the dust shortly after the conversation!

I also met a woman named Laurie from Denver, a 48-year-old woman who is starting a second career as a hospice nurse, and we hiked together for much of the way to the summit. It was nice to have someone to talk to while climbing all those steep switchbacks!

Hiking up higher, we had terrific views of snow-capped Rocky mountain peaks and small blue lakes below us. The steepest part of the trail came at the top of the first false summit, where my legs started to feel like lead and I had to rest every 20 steps or so to catch my breath again. A group of hikers coming down from the summit said there were two more false summits before the peak, so I felt better knowing the number.

However, I counted at least three other false summits along the rocky trail and was becoming super tired by the time the actual summit finally came into view. At that point, Laurie sped ahead of me and I thought she was anxious to reach the summit. However, she actually had a plan in mind because I had mentioned that today was my 32nd birthday when she asked how old I was. As I made my final steps toward the windbreak on the mountain's summit at 10 a.m., Laurie and six other hikers atop the peak sang happy birthday. It was really sweet and funny considering no one knew my name, so they were singing happy birthday "to the girl who climbed a 14'er." I stayed on top of the peak for about 20 minutes or so to take in the views of the Rocky Mountain tops all circling below Mt. Elbert's 14,433 foot summit. It is amazing to see the number of rocky ridges crowding around Elbert.

After trying to force myself to eat something, I finally was able to pull myself away from the view. The hike down was so much easier than the hike up- probably because I didn't have to stare at false peaks all along the way. I was annoyed by a large swarm of flies circling my head and tried to outrun them. It was getting very hot in the afternoon and I was really looking forward to jumping into the freezing cold creek near our campsite. I arrived back at the trailhead at 12:30 to find Shaggy had been waiting there for about a half-hour with cold sodas in tow -- about the best birthday gift I could have asked for at that point!

Pictures from Colorado's Mt. Elbert can be found here.
 
Ivy-
Great pix of Elbert. Brought back some great memories of last June when I climbed it with my son. We had a little more snow, but looks like a similar (typical) Colorado day. Congrats! :D
 
Having spent some time in Oklahoma, I must say I enjoyed the pics of Black Mesa. It was nice to go down memory lane. Thanks for sharing.
 
TMax said:
How many high points does this make for you?

That makes 31 highpoints so far (and 27 for Shaggy.) I have really easy ones or really hard ones left. :) I don't imagine that I have a Denali trip in me... but I hope to get up the rest at some point.

pudgy_groundhog said:
No extensive report on Nebraska??

I was actually thinking of you when we drove through Nebraska... am I remembering correctly that you used to live near the highpoint?

- Ivy
 
I lived in the general vicinity (when you are from the boonies, something that is 2.5 hours from you still feels like your neck of the woods :) ).
 
What a great report. It makes me want to head out west.

I can't remember if you've done Arizona yet. If not, is Humphrey in your plans?

Which one of these would you do again?
 
Daniel Eagan said:
I can't remember if you've done Arizona yet. If not, is Humphrey in your plans? Which one of these would you do again?

Humphrey's was our first higher-elevation peak... another great one. :)

Wheeler Peak in New Mexico was definitely one of my all-time favorites... (along with Mt. Whitney, Katahdin & Mt. Rogers in Virginia.) I definitely would go back to hike it again in a second.

Although I liked Elbert, it wouldn't rank high for a return trip... it was a lot more crowded and didn't have the wildlife around that Wheeler did. Plus, there are so many other places to hike in Colorado!

- Ivy
 
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