Hiking weekend in Gorham, north of the rains

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Mohamed Ellozy

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Towards the end of last week it became clear that there would be a lot of rain in the southern parts of NH, much less further north. A friend and I are redlining the AT in NH, and we had the whole section from Rt 2 to the Maine border to do. Since I can no longer carry a full backpack (bad back) this meant two day hikes. Just the ticket for a weekend with rain in our usual hiking area but better weather up north!

The original plan was to go up the Centennial Trail and follow the AT to Dream Lake on Saturday descending by the Peabody Brook Trail, then on Sunday to go back up the Peabody Brook Trail, continue north along the AT to Carlo Col, and desend by the Carlo Col Trail. Ambitious for so early in the season (neither of us is in great shape yet), but probably doable.

My friend drove up on Friday, and we left Thornton at about 7 AM on Saturday in the rain. In Gorham we dropped our stuff at the Mt. Madison Motel, changed into hiking clothes, and did some planning. I do not recall exactly how we reached that decision, but we decided to do a slightly longer trip, going up the Austin Brook Trail, and following the AT south to the Rattle River parking lot. The WMG says nothing about the crossing of Austin Brook.


Saturday
After spotting a car at the Rattle River trailhead we parked on North Road opposite the start of the trail, just after the road crossed Austin Brook, which was raging. After about a mile the trail reached the brook crossing, and we had one look at it and decided it was uncrossable. A careful look at the map suggested no solution: bushwhacing south of the brook would allow us to cross the un-named tributary, rather than the main brook, but the water level was so high that we decided not to waste any time exploring that option. We also decided that there was no reason to expect Peabody Brook to be any easier to cross, so we opted for an improvised Plan B; go to Randolph and hike Mt. Crescent. We went up the Mt. Crescent Trail, then followed the Crescent Ridge Trail to Carlton Col, and descended by the Carlton Col Trail (looking at the map we decided not to go over Mt. Randolph, since all the trails we might have used would cross Carlton Brook). It was a wet hike; the rain had stopped but the ground was soaked, and there were many places where the trail had become a stream. Alas, no views, but still an enjoyable hike, salvaging what had appeared to be a wasted day.

That evening we did some bad planning :( To avoid stream crossings we decided to do an out and back along the AT, from the Rattle Trail parking area to Dream Lake and back, about 18 miles and 5,400 feet of elevation gain, including 1,800 on the return trip :( Of course we said that we would turn around whenever we felt it was time to do so, but the plan was clearly to go to Dream Lake. What made us think we could do so at our current level of fitness is a mystery to both of us.

Sunday
We had set the alarm to 5 AM, and made breakfast in our room (the motel has fridge, microwave and coffee maker), and set out at 6:30 in light rain. We spotted a car at the Centennial Trail trailhead (no point in doing the road walk twice!!) and drove to the Rattle River trailhead. By the time we got out of the car and started hiking (6:50 AM) the rain had stopped completely for the day. The road walk was an easy start to the day, and soon we were going up the Centennial Trail. It was, as we fully expected after the previous day's hike, very wet. Some steep sections, in spite of only climbing 1,800 feet over three miles. Shortly before the junction with the Mahoosuc Trail we climbed up some ledges, they were not too difficult but we were very careful because they were (surprise!!) very wet. I made a mental note that we should definitely plan to reach them, on the way down, before dark (I was already envisioning an exit by headlamp).

Once we reached the Mahoosuc Trail we shifted from straight uphill to a long ridge walk, with both big ups and downs (down from Mt. Hayes, up Cascade Mountain, down to Trident Col, up to Wocket Ledge) and many smaller bumps. In addition trail conditions deteriorated considerably. We ran into an incredible number of blowdowns. While many were easy to deal with, others required more effort, and all in all they added quite a bit to the difficulty of the trip. In addition let me note that there are areas of the trail that have not been brushed out in a long time.

AMC Booktime to Dream Lake was 6:40, so we should have arrived there around 1:30 PM. We were not too far behind, at 2 PM we were almost there (about 0.3 miles short by my GPSr). But I was getting very tired, and was worrying about reaching the ledges before dark. While the distance to Dream Lake was trivial, it would require us to go down about 200 feet, which we would have to climb up on the way back. Some of the climbs ahead of us were steep, including half of the 900 or so feet from Trident Col to the summit of Cascade Mountain. So we stopped, had our second lunch (first was at Trident Col) and started the long journey back.

The first 2.5 miles, to Trident Col, were quite easy, and I recovered a bit. The first half of the climb up Cascade Mountain was brutally steep, but we managed to do quite well on adrenalin. The second 400 or so vertical feet were much less steep, but with the adrenalin gone were no easier. The final gentle climb up Mt. Hayes was the low point of the trip. The grades were, by any definition, gentle, but I was running on empty and was unhappy even on those gentle grades. But when you have no choice but to go on, you do.

We reached the ledges that had worried me with lots of light, and negotiated them very carefully, as they were still wet, and we were very tired. Beyond that it was just a long slog, with a tiny bump making us go uphill one last time. We reached the car a little before 8 PM, for a 13 hour trip (book time is 11:35). We happily changed out of our wet boots and socks, retrieved the other car at the Rattle River trailhead, and headed to Mr. Pizza for a diet-free meal (in my case a huge serving of pasta with sausage and garlic bread). When I reached home in Thornton I was faced with one last hike: up the fourteen steps from the parking lot to my unit. That was perhaps the hardest part of the entire trip!

On our return trip the clouds had lifted considerably, and tired though we were we admired the excellent views of the Moriahs and Madison, with Gorham nestled in the valley and Pine Hill standing as a toy mountain between its taller nieghbors. Definitely a trip to be repeated in optimal weather!

In spite of being bone tired I was delighted with the trip. My biggest trips so far this spring have been twelve milers with around 3,000 feet of elevation gain. On Sunday I was able to hike almost 18 miles, with 5,200 feet of elevation gain. Almost the distance of a minimal (Appalachia to Pierce) Presidential Traverse, though with only about 60% of the elevation gain.

Two questions arise:

How was I able to complete the trip, given that I was already tired when we decided to turn around? As I wrote above, when you have no choice you just keep putting one foot in front of the other. Miriam Underhill, in her wonderful book Give me the Hills writes on this subject:
... I adopted the belief that for practical purposes there was no limit to physical endurance. ... I have been, in my lifetime, extremely tired more than once. I have been too tired to eat, too tired to sleep. But I don't remember any occasion when I couldn't have walked another mile if my life had depended on it.
A more interesting question is why two experienced hikers, who know their limits all too well, embarked on this trip. I was the guilty party in the planning, though my companion never complained. The original plan called for a three mile hike up the Centennial Trail, then six miles along the Mahoosuc Trail, then a three mile descent by the Peabody Brook Trail, for a total of about twelve miles and 3,600 feet. With the streams uncrossable I said: What the heck, why don't we do an out and back? We both had the numbers in our heads; we would be replacing a three mile descent by a six mile ridge walk followed by a three mile descent, adding six miles and whatever elevation gain was involved. A quick look at the WMG told us that we would be adding 1,800 feet. Clearly way more than we could comfortably do.

Neither of us is competitive, and neither of us is very goal oriented. But by some mysterious quirk neither of us had the common sense to say: "This is ridiculous, let's plan something more doable". My best guess is that we both saw that as a way to jump-start our spring training, but your guess is as good as mine
 
I am leader of a similar venture redlining or simply called Day hiking the Mahoosucs. We actually are dayhiking the AT southbound and from June 4-12 we will be doing the section from South Arm Road to US 2.

Now that I read your report, I am asking a couple of questions which you may or may not be able to answer but I will ask anyway.

My last two days of this hiking trip are as follows:

Sat. June 10: After setting up a car shuttle, we will climb the Success Trail from Success Pond Road and then head south along the AT (Mahoosuc Trail) to Dream Pond and then descend the Peabody Brook Trail to North Road. This hike appear to me to be about 12 miles and about 2600 feet in elevation gain.

Is my estimation of elevation gain correct? Any especially challenging spots I should be aware of?

Sun. June 11: We are setting up a car shuttle from Rattle River Trailhead (AT) on US 2 with Mill Brook Road. Can I drive in 1.5 miles from North Road on Mill Brook Road with an SUV? regular sedan? or not at all? Can I save myself 1.4 mile of hiking? My hike plans is to follow the Austin Brook Trail up to Dryad Brook Trail to Dream Pond. Then take the AT around using the Centennial Trail and following it strictly southbound (including roadwalk) to Rattle River Trailhead on US 2. Also, I need to go a little bit out of my way to climb Mt. Hayes to bag this "Paek with a View". Assuming I can drive up Mill Brook Road, then my figures show a hike of 11.9 miles + .8 miles of road walk at the end. If I can't drive up Mill Brook Road - 14.1 miles total. I have a guesstimate of 3,000 feet of elevation gain for this hike.

Other questions: Any stream crossings do you think by the date of travel will still be not crossable? Will the blowdowns still be a major obstacle? Is my estimate of elevation gain about right? Do you think these two dayhikes are more agressive than a group of relatively strong hikers that are goal oriented should try to take on?

If you or any other reader wishes to see my detailed itinerary for this entire trip or any other dayhike of my AT dayhiking saga in Maine, feel free to e-mail me. (Don't PM me as I need to send attachments). I have the plans and could tell you how to dayhike the Hundred Mile Wilderness without backpacking. I have done a majority of the Wilderness already and most of Maine on the AT southbound.
 
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I am not really familiar with the area (my first hike in the Mahoosucs apart from peakbagging 4Ks and NEHH) so I cannot answer most of your questions. Will try to deal with two:
askus3 said:
Other questions: Any stream crossings do you think by the date of travel will still be not crossable? Will the blowdowns still be a major obstacle?
Stream crossings depend on the weather in the previous very few days, impossible to predict long in advance.

The AMC's professional trail crew should be out soon (probably they already are) clearing major blowdowns on all AMC maintained trails, which as a general rule include the AT and the trails leading to it. So the blowdowns should be gone by the time you are there (no warranty!!).
 
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I have done a loop hike up Centennial Trail and down Austin Brook Trail with side trips to Hayes and Bald Cap, can't remember if I had to do the whole road walk or was able to hitch a ride. Certainly it was possible to drive in to Dryad Falls Trail in the past but haven't been there in years and don't know about now.

The W Mahoosucs are more mellow than the E Mahoosucs but there still may be a lot of ups and downs that don't show on a map.
 
Many times in May I had to remove my boots and socks to ford the Peabody Brook. About 300' from North Road, where the logging road crosses the brook, is where I discover if it is worth continuing on to visit Giant and Dryad Falls. When I went, it was only the normal winter melt and not these 14 days of rain. Don't waste time going down the spur to Giant Falls. A huge rockslide from Bald Cap Peak several years ago has left many trees and giant boulders scattered about. When you pass the slide area, go into the woods to the brook, and witness for 100's of feet why it is called giant!

As for Austin Brook, I've always found it impossible to cross during the spring. About 1/8 to 1/4 mile or so East of the white turnstyle, you will see a logging road. This logging road continues for about a mile or more. I've parked here many times for loop hikes. This logging road continues north of Mt Craig on the east side and avoids the entire Brook. North of Mt Cabot and Middle Mtn one must stay east of the Austin Brook. This whole area will be soaking wet and too muddy now. If the sun stays out for a few weeks, it should dry out the area.

Dryad Falls rivals Arethusa in height, beauty, and is spectacular -- but only in the spring or after heavy rain. This whole area is moose country and your chances of seeing bear, moose, deer, etc are great. Happy trails!!
 

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