Jefferson; up Castle Ridge down Israel Ridge

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JohnL

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Sep 4, 2003
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At the end of the road
On Sunday, I had a free play day and with the weather expected to be excellent, I decided to try pair of trails that I had not been on previously; Mt Jefferson via Castle Ridge and Israel Ridge. I knew that with the NASCAR race I would need to be off the trail early so the 3:30AM alarm came far too soon, particularly since I did not get to bed until nearly 11:00. My preparations were slower than normal and I finally got on the road a bit before 5:00. The ride north was uneventful except for the some intense fog and two groups of wild turkeys I spotted along the roadsides. I stopped to take a couple photos of the second group on NH Rte 115. It would not be the last I would see of turkeys for the next 24 hours.

I arrived at Bowman and I got quickly onto the trail by 7:45; later than I would have wanted but early enough anyway. The weather was clear with some lingering ground fog as I started up the trail where I immediately encountered four people who had car camped on the dirt road adjacent to the old railroad bed. I startled them with my greeting and I passed quickly through their campsite, becoming merely an apparition in their pre-coffee minds.

The trail was still damp with previous rains and condensed fog. Water droplets rained down on me as the leaves warmed up. I cruised along the first couple miles as the grade was flat to moderate and I quickly loosened up. Approaching what the WMG describes as the big boulder, I checked my watch and I had covered the first 2.2 miles in 50 minutes. I was making good time but I knew that was about to stop. The crank up to the ridge began here and a quarter mile or so later I was rewarded with an idyllic ridge walk that in places was almost level. Here were areas of thick moss, fields of ferns and open boulevards of trail. A great place to walk. Soon the incline increased and I broke into the open just below the first Castle. The under-cast was still thick in most of the valleys to the north and east. The higher peaks poked through the clouds in profusion. The darkly shadowed first Castle was impressive and intimidating from this perspective. After several photos it was time to get moving again.

The scramble up both castles was fun and energizing as the view became more impressive with the increase in height. From the first castle I got excellent views into Castle Ravine and enjoyed 360 degree panoramas. The gawk factor was outstanding. From here I noticed the clouds creeping their way up into the ravine and I watched as the entire floor of the ravine was soon engulfed in clouds. The spectacle was awe inspiring. The total interplay of clouds, valleys and peaks was a sensory overload of which I could have stayed in one place to watch all day. Reluctantly I moved upward along the trail and I kept turning around to admire the ever changing scenery. The mile from the Link junction to the Cornice junction took me an hour and fifteen minutes, predominantly due to the wonderful views. From there I scrambled up the rocks to the summit of Mt Jefferson. It was 11:00 and it was crowded. These were the first people I had seen along the trail since the car campers. It was windy but comfortable and the views were limitless. I measured the temperature and wind speed at 53 degrees and a steady 20mph. In the lee of the mountain, however, it felt considerably warmer due to the calmness and the solar radiation.

I took a number of photos from the summit and its proximity and then moved on, making my way down the Loop Trail and onto the Gulfside Trail. The trails were crowded and everyone seemed in a great mood. It was a beautiful and warm day for even the middle of the summer, let alone mid September. I had some pleasant chats with several people but at Edmand’s Col our paths diverged and we bid each other a pleasant hike. I headed down the Israel Ridge Trail and from there to the bottom I had the trail to myself. I was careful on the descent as the trail was covered in wet leaves and all the rocks were damp with condensation. This is not a heavily used trail and on both trails I had the feeling of ‘being out there’. I took the short side trail to Emerald Bluff and was rewarded with outstanding views into the ravine and over to the Castles.

At the trail junction with the Link, I took the wrong turn, confused by the signs. I went probably a half mile on the Link and noticed that the trail blazes had turned from Blue to Yellow. I re-checked the map, which was difficult to read since I had left my reading glasses in the car. Doh! I turned back and at the trail junction I again looked at the signs and they were not clear. I headed down the Link toward Appalachia and in fifty yards there was the sign for the Israel Ridge Trail to Bowman. I was back on the trail. I cruised down the trail, careful of my footing and taking in the sights of the forest but I soon I noticed that the blazes were Yellow again. What had happened? Why is it Yellow? It should be Blue. The Israel Ridge Trail is a connector to the AT and should be marked Blue. I was doubting myself now. Did I see the sign to Bowman but not take it? Again I backtracked to the trail junction only to confirm that I was on the correct trail. I continued down the trail but was still confused as to why this section of the Israel Ridge Trail was blazed differently. Anyone know why? Once back on the Castle Trail where it was flat I cruised out the final 1.3 miles, feeling better now that I was over my trail frustrations. It was warm down here; it was 70 degrees at the trailhead when I finished up at 2:35.

I had tried a little experiment today in that I would drink only water (I usually drink GatorAde) and eat nothing during the hike. Even with a small breakfast (muffin and a PB&J sandwich) I did not feel hungry. I did carry food with me just in case but I just wanted to see how important food was on a hike like this. As it turns out it was not critically important. That did not stop me from eating that extra PB&J sandwich on the ride home, which was a race to see if I would beat the NASCAR traffic through Concord. I did.

Photos are here.

JohnL

ps; back to the turkeys. When I got home from the hike and was on the back porch talking to my wife about the day’s adventure, I spotted something in the back yard and it turned out to be a group of about eight turkeys. Then this morning as I was leaving the neighborhood on my way to work, there was a very large group (maybe 16) of turkeys in a neighbor’s lawn. I’m looking forward to getting home tonight to see what’s for dinner.
 
John -
did the same hike with LarryD a few weeks ago, and I revisited that Link junction last week...it is confusing...as you descend IR, it would be helpful if there was a sign in front of you...
larry and I discussed it for a minute and we went the right way, but I was all set to head off in the wrong direction...
this was one of my all time favorite hikes...man - you are fast...we took a nice even 12 hours!
 
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