Katahdin - Pamola, Baxter And Hamlin Peaks

[DayTrip]

First trip up to Baxter this past Sun-Tue and it did not disappoint! Many encounters of less than 50' with deer, moose, bear and countless other critters. Sandy Stream Pond might have the biggest payoff in all of hiking for a 15 minute hike you could do in flip flops. Incredible.

As for the trails, I went Mon on a very warm but breezy day. Conditions on all the trails were bone dry and many brooks and small drainages were very low or empty. I got a 5:10 AM start and went up Helon Taylor to Pamola Peak. What a jaw dropping view as you crest the top and look out at the Knife Edge and Katahdin. The drop into and out of the Chimney was definitely interesting but thankfully not as daunting as I had read. The Knife Edge itself from here to South Peak has to be the coolest trail I have ever been on. I was buffeted with erratic winds gusting as high as 30 mph as I made my way across. It was also not as crazy as I was expecting from a danger point of view but certainly had it's share of spots requiring great care. Had the entire trail to myself up to this point. The rest of way and Baxter there was about 15-20 people but generally uncrowded. I went down Saddle to the spring spur and if what I found is the Saddle Spring it was very low, scarcely more than a one square foot puddle 2-3 inches deep. I went up to Hamlin from there and descended the very steep and rugged Hamlin Trail. Had this all stretch to myself as well until I was overtaken by a group of 4 just as I was getting to the trees. Much more rugged stretch than I realized. Cruised out on Chimney Pond Trail. Conditions were ideal other than the heat (temp even on summit was 80 deg F plus two straight days but the breeze helped out in spots). Other than Baxter summit I felt like I was alone in the park.

A very special thanks to everyone who provided very thoughtful and detailed answers to all of the questions I asked planning the trip. This was my first camping trip in about two decades that was more than just an overnight, car camping excursion and the first time ever I planned and packed the whole thing on my own. The trip, from a logistical point of view, went off without a hitch. My camp cooking and organization however could use some polishing. I was in walk in site #16 and you had to put food in car each night. Was basically a 0.2 mile walk to car for forgotten items, bathroom and almost half a mile back and forth to wood shed. Did a lot of hiking just in camp. Man did I miss my wife's outstanding camp cooking! Was a fantastic trip. Baxter definitely lives up to it's reputation for wilderness adventure.

 

[peakbagger]

A question to a first time visitor. Did you have any issues with the park bureaucracy, any rangers hassling you or rules that made no sense?

How were the bugs?

How was the Roaring brook road, would you consider the speed limit reasonable?

Now that you have the big summits off the list are you planning to be one time visitor or is the hook set to go the less visited places.

 

[DayTrip]

Short video from the Knife Edge:

https://youtu.be/kASTZhJUJTA

 

[egilbe]

Lol, the video scared me. Heights like that makes me uncomfortable, but I still do them.

 

[DayTrip]

A question to a first time visitor. Did you have any issues with the park bureaucracy, any rangers hassling you or rules that made no sense?

How were the bugs?

How was the Roaring brook road, would you consider the speed limit reasonable?

Now that you have the big summits off the list are you planning to be one time visitor or is the hook set to go the less visited places.

Not at all. I was actually surprised because I was expecting more of a presence from the employees with all I had read. One thing that surprised me and led to a little inconvenience was that they asked to have food put in your car when not in use. This got to be inconvenient with the furthest walk in site. Almost 0.2 miles round trip. The website really downplayed the presence of bears, canisters, etc (unless I missed a section somewhere). The night I checked in the ranger came to site and asked for copy of reservation. I thought the gate girl had told me to leave everything in car so that was what I did. He didn't make me go get it or bust my balls. He just asked for a description of my car and said he'd check the windshield on way out. When he mentioned the food I told him my Yeti cooler was an IGBC certified container and he said "Cool. Just make sure it's 200' from my site". I left it under my picnic table all week and no one mentioned it. I had mostly beer and soda in it as well as some vacuum sealed packages of jerky and cheese so I didn't worry about it. I didn't interact a whole lot with staff but when I did they were very friendly. I never felt like I was being monitored or anything.

Roaring Brook road was in pretty good shape, certainly better than a lot of roads I drive in NH. There was one large hill that had some pretty good washboard to it but more than manageable. Clearance was not an issue even with my little car. I drove all posted speed limits on the way in (including the 10 mph zones at trail heads) to get an "official" time from gate to parking lot. It was 27 minutes. On my way out I was able to comfortably drive 25 mph just about everywhere (except toward the end when I had to stop and wait for a moose to clear the road ).

Black flies were pretty decent but certainly not the worst I had ever seen. It was pretty breezy almost the entire time I was there which helped. I didn't notice bugs really at all on the hike. Around the campsite and at Sandy Stream Pond when the wind died the black flies were out and biting. I used Bens most of the week and I did see a few people wearing head nets in their camp site. It was so dry there I assume this year's hatch has not been as brutal as it could have been.

I am definitely going back. I've always wanted to climb Katahdin not because it's on any list but because I have been fascinated by the Knife Edge for decades. I think my next trip will be from the North Gate and a hike of the Traveler's loop. I think my wife would be up for camping or a cabin on one of the ponds. I don't think she would have enjoyed Roaring Brook as a non-hiker. It is a pretty barren and practical camp site. When we camp at Sugarloaf II in NH she likes to hang out on the river and Roaring Brook really isn't that big or open to sky for that. I'll have to start researching some other hikes in the park. I'd definitely like to turn this into an annual trip. I was blown away by how awesome the park is. It is so vast. It feels like you're out West or something. I was very impressed.

 

[peakbagger]

Plan to take a day off or two in January and go to opening day. Book a cabin at Kidney Pond of Daicey Pond (I prefer Daicey others prefer Kidney as its smaller and the views of the summit are better). Your wife most likely will like either one as they are both old sporting camps right on a pond, lots of local hiking trips in the area. They have screens on the windows and are a lot more open than Roaring Brook. They are both a bit of drive to Traveler. If you have a chauffeur, There is an overnight backpack via Russell Pond from South Branch Pond back to the perimeter road by Wassataquoik Lake. ( I haven't done it but it comes highly recommended) South Branch Pond has some lean tos right on the Pond and a pile of campsites out in the woods (which are not so nice). They do have a huge bunkhouse in the woods

Glad you had good time, the early spring probably helped the bugs.

 

[Stan]

The bunkhouse at South Branch Pond is like having your own cabin. We've stayed there 9 nights over 3 visits and only had one night with someone not in our party ... but a good person to share the place with. I always book 4 bunks though our party is typically 2 or 3. This gives us one of the two bunkrooms to ourselves. Bring a kayak or use their canoe to paddle the ponds ... it is worth the effort to go upstream to the upper pond. Traveler loop is all it is bragged about but the reason we went back 3 times was to wait for a bluebird day. There are other hikes (Black Cat Mountain loop is a good one for less than perfect days) and Lake Matagamon is wonderful paddling but be aware of the prevailing NW winds. It has been dammed since Thoreau passed through but you'll get a flavor of what he experienced.

Count me as one who favors the cabins at Kidney Pond over Daicey. Its a good base camp for Fort, Coe and the Brothers and ideal for Doubletop, especially if you can get a ride to the north end of the trail. Camp OJI is an interesting cabin ... talk about walking (or paddling) back to your car! Unfortunately, the area in front of the cabin has grown up, crowding out the blueberries, since my early visits and obscuring the views of OJI. But, I expect the 5:30 AM moose is still on schedule.

I've been going every other year for over 20 years and all this talk has me thinking of an extra trip this year! ... with 48 mountains, 21 over 3K, and 64 named bodies of water, there's a lifetime of hiking, paddling and redlining. Bring your bride ASAP, I find they lose interest in the rustic lifestyle after a certain age!

 

[JustJoe]

Just noticed your report. I finally managed to get Katahdin done last weekend. And your video confirms what I already knew. No way could I do The Knife Edge. Well beyond my comfort zone.