SherpaKroto
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- Sep 4, 2003
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We had so much fun a week ago climbing with Frodo that we decided more practice was in order. HarryK, Skimom and I decided to head up to the Ravine proper and climb Lobster Claw or Right Gully. We knew the weather would not be fantastic (ok, it was expected to be lousy), but we figured we needed the practice.
We woke up at 6:00 and looked out to a dark dreary cloud (among other dark dreary clouds) hovering above the Northern Presis. Undaunted, we decided to head up anyway, but decided on a leisurely breakfast at Hiker's Paradise. Bruno made good, and we were well fed and ready to go. I started a weekend of forgetfulness by leaving my contour pillow in the room and had to return while the others headed to Pinkham to gear up. We were pleasantly surprised to find a few of the other usual suspects there for the hike to the Ravine. We finally set off just after 9:15.
Last week we were full of energy, today, on a 1-10 scale I was a 4. I felt sluggish and I'm sure the weather had something to do with that. I'm guessing it took us somewhere north of 2 hours to get to HoJo's, but we spent a lot of time catching up on old times along the way. When we reached Hojo's we found there were about 50 other crazies out today, and all of them were taking shelter under the roof at HoJo's
After each of us had a beer (Tuck's, Long Trail, Saranac were represented) we headed up to the ravine. On the way up we started hearing reports of the less than stellar conditions. A ski patroller passed us with an injured guy, and thanked us for waiting patiently as they walked by. I found out later that he had fallen high up on Left Gully as he climbed on the slick ice. He had separated/dislocated his left shoulder which took 4 tries to snap back in. He actually looked good, making his way down on his own power. I was impressed.
We stopped to go over our route options with the Rangers. I had thought of heading up Lobster Claw and down Right Gully, but was discouraged from doing so due to ice fall danger in the Right Gully. I asked them about heading up Lobster Claw, up one claw, down the other. He agreed that it was a good plan, so off we went.
The visibility was so bad that as I looked up, it was not real clear what the best entry was to Lobster Claw (even though I've been to Tuckerman's easily over 60 times). I did not want to start up the wrong gully, putting us in ice fall danger, so I went back to talk to the Ranger. I got a good head to toe lookover from him (I don't exactly look like a climber), assured him that we were prepared, had all the gear, and knew how to use it. That seemed to satisfy him, and he said I was on the right approach.
The three of us set off, and the grade immediately steepened. I remembered that gully from skiing it with my brother in 2001 when we decided it was a good warmup run (it most assuredly was not a warmup!). We climbed steadily in the rain, with occasional gusts of nice wet wind. Harry headed for the crux of the Claw, and we stopped there for a break to take some pictures. Skimom decided that she was tired, and would not head higher, so she would wait while Harry and I climbed up a bit further. We took a few more shots (poseur shots as Harry called them) and headed up further. As we neared the ridgecrest, conditions worsened and Harry said he'd be happy with ending there (we were just above 5,000 feet). I told him I'd climb up to him and we high fived each other. In those conditions, it was a good character building climb. We could see Skimom about 400 feet below us, readying for her descent. We yelled and told her that we were coming down, and started working on our descent technique. I always find it harder to head down steep slopes than up, but the snow was firm and we moved well. We caught Skimom in no time, and descended as conditions again worsened. Rain pelted us, and as the wind increased, ice crystals fell from above. All I could think was that a week makes a big difference.
We headed down to HoJo's, had another snack, congratulated each other on a job well done, and headed down in the rain. Another good training day that will pay off for each of us when August comes on Rainier! 45 Minutes later we weer at Pinkham's. As I showered (thanks to Skimom's suggestion), I thought how odd that water felt so good when it felt so lousy just a few minutes before.
Pics are HERE
We woke up at 6:00 and looked out to a dark dreary cloud (among other dark dreary clouds) hovering above the Northern Presis. Undaunted, we decided to head up anyway, but decided on a leisurely breakfast at Hiker's Paradise. Bruno made good, and we were well fed and ready to go. I started a weekend of forgetfulness by leaving my contour pillow in the room and had to return while the others headed to Pinkham to gear up. We were pleasantly surprised to find a few of the other usual suspects there for the hike to the Ravine. We finally set off just after 9:15.
Last week we were full of energy, today, on a 1-10 scale I was a 4. I felt sluggish and I'm sure the weather had something to do with that. I'm guessing it took us somewhere north of 2 hours to get to HoJo's, but we spent a lot of time catching up on old times along the way. When we reached Hojo's we found there were about 50 other crazies out today, and all of them were taking shelter under the roof at HoJo's
After each of us had a beer (Tuck's, Long Trail, Saranac were represented) we headed up to the ravine. On the way up we started hearing reports of the less than stellar conditions. A ski patroller passed us with an injured guy, and thanked us for waiting patiently as they walked by. I found out later that he had fallen high up on Left Gully as he climbed on the slick ice. He had separated/dislocated his left shoulder which took 4 tries to snap back in. He actually looked good, making his way down on his own power. I was impressed.
We stopped to go over our route options with the Rangers. I had thought of heading up Lobster Claw and down Right Gully, but was discouraged from doing so due to ice fall danger in the Right Gully. I asked them about heading up Lobster Claw, up one claw, down the other. He agreed that it was a good plan, so off we went.
The visibility was so bad that as I looked up, it was not real clear what the best entry was to Lobster Claw (even though I've been to Tuckerman's easily over 60 times). I did not want to start up the wrong gully, putting us in ice fall danger, so I went back to talk to the Ranger. I got a good head to toe lookover from him (I don't exactly look like a climber), assured him that we were prepared, had all the gear, and knew how to use it. That seemed to satisfy him, and he said I was on the right approach.
The three of us set off, and the grade immediately steepened. I remembered that gully from skiing it with my brother in 2001 when we decided it was a good warmup run (it most assuredly was not a warmup!). We climbed steadily in the rain, with occasional gusts of nice wet wind. Harry headed for the crux of the Claw, and we stopped there for a break to take some pictures. Skimom decided that she was tired, and would not head higher, so she would wait while Harry and I climbed up a bit further. We took a few more shots (poseur shots as Harry called them
) and headed up further. As we neared the ridgecrest, conditions worsened and Harry said he'd be happy with ending there (we were just above 5,000 feet). I told him I'd climb up to him and we high fived each other. In those conditions, it was a good character building climb. We could see Skimom about 400 feet below us, readying for her descent. We yelled and told her that we were coming down, and started working on our descent technique. I always find it harder to head down steep slopes than up, but the snow was firm and we moved well. We caught Skimom in no time, and descended as conditions again worsened. Rain pelted us, and as the wind increased, ice crystals fell from above. All I could think was that a week makes a big difference.We headed down to HoJo's, had another snack, congratulated each other on a job well done, and headed down in the rain. Another good training day that will pay off for each of us when August comes on Rainier! 45 Minutes later we weer at Pinkham's. As I showered (thanks to Skimom's suggestion), I thought how odd that water felt so good when it felt so lousy just a few minutes before.
Pics are HERE
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