Oldsmores
New member
Third time's the charm!
I got scheduled for a business trip to the Boulder area, so took the opportunity to tack on a vacation day for some unfinished business. I had tried to climb Long's twice previously and got turned back: Once because I didn't have the proper equipment (axe/crampons) and once because my daughter pooped out before we got to the boulderfield. So I was motivated to make the summit when I hit the trail at 3:45 a.m.
It was a beautiful morning, temps in the 40s and not a cloud in the sky. Used my headlamp until I hit treeline, then was able to turn it off and hike by moonlight. I was stopped dead in my tracks when I got to the first spot where I had a view of the Diamond and Meeker's - the moon was lighting up the snowfields on both in sharp contrast to the east face. It was spectacular!
The first 4 or 5 miles of this climb are pretty uneventful. Pretty gradual grade and excellent trail until you hit the boulderfield. No problem hiking in the dark and the sunrise is beautiful. The only problem I had is my camera crapped out. Long story short: I had two sets of spare batteries and they were both dead. There's something to be said for a mechanical 35mm film camera over digital! The first couple hours also reinforced my dislike of Power Bars. I managed to choke down 3 of them, but I'd rather eat pine cones.
By the time I hit the boulderfield the sun was up and the Keyhole was lit up brightly. Picking through the boulderfield is no real problem, although picking up cairns as you start the scramble up to the Keyhole can be a little difficult. You're basically looking for little piles of rock in the big pile of rocks.
The Keyhole is an impressive spot, and the first glimpse through it really shows you how the nature of the climb is going to change. You are transitioning from the relatively gentle eastern slope to some high angle rock and snow on the north of the peak. The Narrows has some interesting exposure, but is not really difficult. The crux of the climb comes when you reach the Trough, which is the first time I reached for the ice axe (I never pulled the crampons out). The Trough is a lllooooooonnngg snow gully at a respectable angle, complicated by the fact that you're now over 13K ft. It seemed to take forever to get up it. The snow was rotten - sometimes frozen hard, sometimes slushy, sometimes just crusted enough so you'd break through above the knee. Didn't really need the axe, but it made me feel better in case I fell and needed to self-arrest - it's about a 1000' run-out with rocks waiting to catch you.
Upon finally reaching the top of the Trough you're faced with the "homestretch", which looks insurmountable. It's actually not that bad. It's at least mercifully short, with some interesting scrambling. I actually thought the exposure there was worse than in the Narrows. It can get interesting if you meet someone going the other direction. The line is fairly narrow in places. I summited in a warm sun and almost no wind at about 10:25 (almost 7 hours to go 7.5 miles - I blame my flatlander respiratory system for the slow pace!) Miraculously, I had the summit all to myself for 10 or 15 minutes before I was joined by two guys and a girl from Boulder. They took pity on my camera situation and took a summit shot of me along with my email address. Thank you James!
They left a few minutes before I did and were moving a lot quicker than I was (downclimbing solo I tend to move very deliberately), so I lost sight of them in the trough. About the time I was crossing the Narrows the thunder started. If that doesn't get your adrenaline flowing you've got no imagination. I made it back to the Keyhole and hunkered down in the stone shelter there until it was clear that the storm was passing to the north. Just pass the boulderfield I was treated to a... flock?... gaggle?... bunch? of ptarmigan right off the trail. 6 or 7 adults were pecking for food while 3 young 'uns were rolling in the snow nearby. They showed absolutely no fear and let me walk up within 3 or 4 feet of them. Very pretty birds, just not very smart.
The rest of the hike was pretty much a death march. Got back to the car at 4:00 p.m. 12 hours 15 minutes, 15 miles, 5000 ft elevation gain and loss. An absolutely beautiful day. I love Colorado!
I got scheduled for a business trip to the Boulder area, so took the opportunity to tack on a vacation day for some unfinished business. I had tried to climb Long's twice previously and got turned back: Once because I didn't have the proper equipment (axe/crampons) and once because my daughter pooped out before we got to the boulderfield. So I was motivated to make the summit when I hit the trail at 3:45 a.m.
It was a beautiful morning, temps in the 40s and not a cloud in the sky. Used my headlamp until I hit treeline, then was able to turn it off and hike by moonlight. I was stopped dead in my tracks when I got to the first spot where I had a view of the Diamond and Meeker's - the moon was lighting up the snowfields on both in sharp contrast to the east face. It was spectacular!
The first 4 or 5 miles of this climb are pretty uneventful. Pretty gradual grade and excellent trail until you hit the boulderfield. No problem hiking in the dark and the sunrise is beautiful. The only problem I had is my camera crapped out. Long story short: I had two sets of spare batteries and they were both dead. There's something to be said for a mechanical 35mm film camera over digital! The first couple hours also reinforced my dislike of Power Bars. I managed to choke down 3 of them, but I'd rather eat pine cones.
By the time I hit the boulderfield the sun was up and the Keyhole was lit up brightly. Picking through the boulderfield is no real problem, although picking up cairns as you start the scramble up to the Keyhole can be a little difficult. You're basically looking for little piles of rock in the big pile of rocks.
The Keyhole is an impressive spot, and the first glimpse through it really shows you how the nature of the climb is going to change. You are transitioning from the relatively gentle eastern slope to some high angle rock and snow on the north of the peak. The Narrows has some interesting exposure, but is not really difficult. The crux of the climb comes when you reach the Trough, which is the first time I reached for the ice axe (I never pulled the crampons out). The Trough is a lllooooooonnngg snow gully at a respectable angle, complicated by the fact that you're now over 13K ft. It seemed to take forever to get up it. The snow was rotten - sometimes frozen hard, sometimes slushy, sometimes just crusted enough so you'd break through above the knee. Didn't really need the axe, but it made me feel better in case I fell and needed to self-arrest - it's about a 1000' run-out with rocks waiting to catch you.
Upon finally reaching the top of the Trough you're faced with the "homestretch", which looks insurmountable. It's actually not that bad. It's at least mercifully short, with some interesting scrambling. I actually thought the exposure there was worse than in the Narrows. It can get interesting if you meet someone going the other direction. The line is fairly narrow in places. I summited in a warm sun and almost no wind at about 10:25 (almost 7 hours to go 7.5 miles - I blame my flatlander respiratory system for the slow pace!) Miraculously, I had the summit all to myself for 10 or 15 minutes before I was joined by two guys and a girl from Boulder. They took pity on my camera situation and took a summit shot of me along with my email address. Thank you James!
They left a few minutes before I did and were moving a lot quicker than I was (downclimbing solo I tend to move very deliberately), so I lost sight of them in the trough. About the time I was crossing the Narrows the thunder started. If that doesn't get your adrenaline flowing you've got no imagination. I made it back to the Keyhole and hunkered down in the stone shelter there until it was clear that the storm was passing to the north. Just pass the boulderfield I was treated to a... flock?... gaggle?... bunch? of ptarmigan right off the trail. 6 or 7 adults were pecking for food while 3 young 'uns were rolling in the snow nearby. They showed absolutely no fear and let me walk up within 3 or 4 feet of them. Very pretty birds, just not very smart.
The rest of the hike was pretty much a death march. Got back to the car at 4:00 p.m. 12 hours 15 minutes, 15 miles, 5000 ft elevation gain and loss. An absolutely beautiful day. I love Colorado!
