spider solo
New member
Oct 2,3 06
As many of you know Moosehead Lake is slated for a huge development project....the largest in the history of Maine, if I'm not mistaken. I've lost track of the latest version, but it is along the lines of literally hundreds of houses, a golf course or two, mariners etc. etc.
In April I did the 1st of what I hoped to be a 3 part journey up to Moosehead Lake roughly in thirds with the primary focus on the more remote northern sections..that which is about to be "lost"...or "improved" depending on ones viewpoint.
"Times Aren't Now Buddy Like They're Gonna Be..."
That's the thought that keeps pumping through my head as my boat touches water.
I'm putting in up at Northwest Cove...Seboomok Wilderness Campground ...to be exact, as it offers a launching area...$15 to put the boat in the water or $25 for a campsite and "free" acceses. I opt for the campsite.
I've traveled 32 miles of dirt road to get there... $16 for the private dirt road to get to the turn off for the campground. If I just wanted to put in for the day it would have been "pricey"..actually the most I've ever paid to put kayak to water...but..."Times aren't now.." and I go for it.
It's 1 o'clock as I push off from the shallow water..the weather is unsettled..I realize that with such a late start I could only go out for a couple of hrs before I returned to the campground...unless...I have no intention of returning.
It's true I am heading out with a late start... it seems unrealistic to travel so far and tether myself to campground camping.
Much like hiking/backpacking I have everything I need for an overnight with me..just in case.
I know the wind can come up strong and I am heading "down wind" returning if the wind comes up would be extremely difficult.
The bay is beautifull and as the expanse of the shoreline opens up I am relived
to see no huge clearcuts that I feared would be the tell tale sign that of the upcoming devolpment. Instead I see Mergansers and Loons. The Loons capture my interest as I am curious if they congregate in numbers before they start their migrations. Within a few minutes I see a Loon or two with a young one, much as I thought I might. Loon 'laughs' here and there let me know where they are and I always back off or change course so as not to crowd them.
I pass between Seboomook Island and Seboomook Point...I love the names.
The point has a camping site which looks nicely situated as I pass by and open up into Northeast Cove which looks huge.
Now off in the distance I can easily see a "Loon Convention" there are easily a dozen or more all hanging out in close formation for all appreances "socializing". They are out in the open water...I don't have the nerve yet to travel straight across the mouth of the bay and realize that I can't tell if those are white caps in the distance or just a hazy view. I opt for the shore line and start following it around looking for the Northeast Carry...a long time historic portage route to points further north. I have two maps with me. Northern forest Canoe trail map # 11 and a waterproof Moosehead Lake map.
Apparently I don't hug the shore enough for I never see it or if I do see it I don't recognize it. There are a fair amount of camps along the shore line in this section as I travell . Wind is low and I'm enjoying the views as I continue along making good time.
I'm actually quite amazed with the progress I'm making.. the bay that looked so huge that I thought I would never get around, is actually passing by pretty quickly.
Four o'clock... I realize that for all purposes I'm way beyond a descent turn around time...I wouldn't get back till 7 o'clock, at the best, in the dark, but more importantly I wonder if I would actually have that much energy...I continue on.
Reaching the more wind swept side of the bay the waves have picked up somewhat and I am making very good time. I see an opening along the shore and I head for it. Norcross Brook is where I now think I was . There was some heavy equipment and some men working on a boat landing...though I refrain from asking them "Where am I" ??..figured it wouldn't only be the Loons laughing, should I ask.
...Typical guy...how does the saying go? .."two things you'll never hear a guy say..I'm lost and not now I have a headache"...besides I wasn't lost... just a little unsure of my progress.
I eddy out behind a sand bar, out of the wind ,,take a breather, cinch things up.
The breeze has been increasing along with the wind waves I think the next section could get a little "interesting". I am right. Leaving the brook, heading back into the lake, I am coming more into the open with the waves coming a bit broadside to me. Rounding Norcross Point the wind is at my back the wind has definetly increased..it's somewhere around 5 pm and the wind has kicked in, living up to it's reputation in good style. My speed picked up and the shore is zipping past.
Kayaks.. lot's of nice ones to pick from and mine handles conditions like this best when it is carrying a load... to see the bow frequently under water is as much a design feature as well as an indicator of the current conditions.
Still I keep an eye on the bow to see how much it is burying itself..don't want to much of a good thing. I'm aware that there are white caps and the boat is yawing as it works it's way through the chop stable, for the most part,
with that occasional roller coaster 'heart in your hand' feeling. I'm wet and tired as I spy a tiny bit of beach..made up of rounded stones. I aim for it..."occupied". I see a collection of Mergansers so I head off. Shortly I see another possibility, a larger pebble beach and make for it. Landing here is not to be...as soon as I get to shore the waves start thrashing me in good style. Feeling more like someone going through a washing machine stuck on permanent -Agitate- I push off once more. More shore line blurs past as I see my best chance a tiny point of rock with a nice soft shoreline rounded stones. I make my landing and walk the beach. Windy, Windy, Windy as I walk the shore. No foot prints, a good sign that there will be no nocturnal wildlife "visitors" and here behind the rock formation..NO Wind !!
Looking out to the water I am surprised how "fiesty" it really is...there are white caps every where...I am here for the night.
I drag the boat over out of the wind...clip it to a tree just in case..heat up a can of soup ( a luxury item for me...you'll not find me with that on a hiking trip).
Bedtime 7:30pm finds me in my sleeping bag... no tent, no fire, no fuss, no trace.
Thoughts of being "agitated to sleep before I tumble dry" drift through my brain. I'm fully awake by 1:00 a.m. dreamily I drift in and out of sleep.
The sight of the moon setting beautifully with and orange glow toward the western shore, sometime in the night was a once in the lifetime sight for me.
because
"Times aren't now buddy like they're going to be...."
Moosehead remains high on my "See it Now list"
...I hope to do one more trip to see the Eagle Mountain area probably in the spring.
These forums now have a paddling section called "Paddle Park" where you might find ideas for other trips or ideas...
As many of you know Moosehead Lake is slated for a huge development project....the largest in the history of Maine, if I'm not mistaken. I've lost track of the latest version, but it is along the lines of literally hundreds of houses, a golf course or two, mariners etc. etc.
In April I did the 1st of what I hoped to be a 3 part journey up to Moosehead Lake roughly in thirds with the primary focus on the more remote northern sections..that which is about to be "lost"...or "improved" depending on ones viewpoint.
"Times Aren't Now Buddy Like They're Gonna Be..."
That's the thought that keeps pumping through my head as my boat touches water.
I'm putting in up at Northwest Cove...Seboomok Wilderness Campground ...to be exact, as it offers a launching area...$15 to put the boat in the water or $25 for a campsite and "free" acceses. I opt for the campsite.
I've traveled 32 miles of dirt road to get there... $16 for the private dirt road to get to the turn off for the campground. If I just wanted to put in for the day it would have been "pricey"..actually the most I've ever paid to put kayak to water...but..."Times aren't now.." and I go for it.
It's 1 o'clock as I push off from the shallow water..the weather is unsettled..I realize that with such a late start I could only go out for a couple of hrs before I returned to the campground...unless...I have no intention of returning.
It's true I am heading out with a late start... it seems unrealistic to travel so far and tether myself to campground camping.
Much like hiking/backpacking I have everything I need for an overnight with me..just in case.
I know the wind can come up strong and I am heading "down wind" returning if the wind comes up would be extremely difficult.
The bay is beautifull and as the expanse of the shoreline opens up I am relived
to see no huge clearcuts that I feared would be the tell tale sign that of the upcoming devolpment. Instead I see Mergansers and Loons. The Loons capture my interest as I am curious if they congregate in numbers before they start their migrations. Within a few minutes I see a Loon or two with a young one, much as I thought I might. Loon 'laughs' here and there let me know where they are and I always back off or change course so as not to crowd them.
I pass between Seboomook Island and Seboomook Point...I love the names.
The point has a camping site which looks nicely situated as I pass by and open up into Northeast Cove which looks huge.
Now off in the distance I can easily see a "Loon Convention" there are easily a dozen or more all hanging out in close formation for all appreances "socializing". They are out in the open water...I don't have the nerve yet to travel straight across the mouth of the bay and realize that I can't tell if those are white caps in the distance or just a hazy view. I opt for the shore line and start following it around looking for the Northeast Carry...a long time historic portage route to points further north. I have two maps with me. Northern forest Canoe trail map # 11 and a waterproof Moosehead Lake map.
Apparently I don't hug the shore enough for I never see it or if I do see it I don't recognize it. There are a fair amount of camps along the shore line in this section as I travell . Wind is low and I'm enjoying the views as I continue along making good time.
I'm actually quite amazed with the progress I'm making.. the bay that looked so huge that I thought I would never get around, is actually passing by pretty quickly.
Four o'clock... I realize that for all purposes I'm way beyond a descent turn around time...I wouldn't get back till 7 o'clock, at the best, in the dark, but more importantly I wonder if I would actually have that much energy...I continue on.
Reaching the more wind swept side of the bay the waves have picked up somewhat and I am making very good time. I see an opening along the shore and I head for it. Norcross Brook is where I now think I was . There was some heavy equipment and some men working on a boat landing...though I refrain from asking them "Where am I" ??..figured it wouldn't only be the Loons laughing, should I ask.
...Typical guy...how does the saying go? .."two things you'll never hear a guy say..I'm lost and not now I have a headache"...besides I wasn't lost... just a little unsure of my progress.
I eddy out behind a sand bar, out of the wind ,,take a breather, cinch things up.
The breeze has been increasing along with the wind waves I think the next section could get a little "interesting". I am right. Leaving the brook, heading back into the lake, I am coming more into the open with the waves coming a bit broadside to me. Rounding Norcross Point the wind is at my back the wind has definetly increased..it's somewhere around 5 pm and the wind has kicked in, living up to it's reputation in good style. My speed picked up and the shore is zipping past.
Kayaks.. lot's of nice ones to pick from and mine handles conditions like this best when it is carrying a load... to see the bow frequently under water is as much a design feature as well as an indicator of the current conditions.
Still I keep an eye on the bow to see how much it is burying itself..don't want to much of a good thing. I'm aware that there are white caps and the boat is yawing as it works it's way through the chop stable, for the most part,
with that occasional roller coaster 'heart in your hand' feeling. I'm wet and tired as I spy a tiny bit of beach..made up of rounded stones. I aim for it..."occupied". I see a collection of Mergansers so I head off. Shortly I see another possibility, a larger pebble beach and make for it. Landing here is not to be...as soon as I get to shore the waves start thrashing me in good style. Feeling more like someone going through a washing machine stuck on permanent -Agitate- I push off once more. More shore line blurs past as I see my best chance a tiny point of rock with a nice soft shoreline rounded stones. I make my landing and walk the beach. Windy, Windy, Windy as I walk the shore. No foot prints, a good sign that there will be no nocturnal wildlife "visitors" and here behind the rock formation..NO Wind !!
Looking out to the water I am surprised how "fiesty" it really is...there are white caps every where...I am here for the night.
I drag the boat over out of the wind...clip it to a tree just in case..heat up a can of soup ( a luxury item for me...you'll not find me with that on a hiking trip).
Bedtime 7:30pm finds me in my sleeping bag... no tent, no fire, no fuss, no trace.
Thoughts of being "agitated to sleep before I tumble dry" drift through my brain. I'm fully awake by 1:00 a.m. dreamily I drift in and out of sleep.
The sight of the moon setting beautifully with and orange glow toward the western shore, sometime in the night was a once in the lifetime sight for me.
because
"Times aren't now buddy like they're going to be...."
Moosehead remains high on my "See it Now list"
...I hope to do one more trip to see the Eagle Mountain area probably in the spring.
These forums now have a paddling section called "Paddle Park" where you might find ideas for other trips or ideas...
Last edited:
