Mt. Cardigan and Three Lab Rats

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BIGEarl

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Location
Nashua, NH
Many reports detailing hikes of Mt. Cardigan seem to have a common thread. The authors are short on time and Cardigan can be a short hike. Approaching from the West in the Cardigan Mountain State Forest, the West Ridge Trail will lead you to the summit and back in a quick 3 mile round trip. Not fighting a deadline, we were interested in more of the rewards this mountain has to offer. Our approach was from the East starting at the AMC Cardigan Lodge.

Three of us hiked Mt. Cardigan together. Jennifer, her brother Stafford, and me. Some folks might find the combination interesting (or perhaps entertaining). These days when people think of Jennifer the “C” word generally comes to mind. And, good old Stafford is running on after-market parts as well just coming back from having a replacement hip installed. I think all three of us are now lab rats in different ways. :)

We left the Cardigan Lodge lot at approximately 9:30am under completely overcast skies. The forecast for the day was ~60% sky cover and a 12 mph wind from the west (another reason for hiking the east side of the mountain). The road leading to the trails had no other fresh tracks heading from the lodge area. We were hiking in one to two inches of fresh powder, no wind, and 100% sky cover. We were hoping for some breaks in the clouds before we reached the open upper sections to enjoy the views. Stafford took the lead and set a comfortable pace. The footing was generally good for the first half of the Manning Trail. At the Allieway Ski Trail junction there is a large blowdown hanging over the trail. I really need to buy a saw to keep on my pack. This blowdown needs to have some limbs removed – I would have taken care of it but, no saw. We were able to pass under without any real problems. Roughly half way to the intersection with the Duke’s Ski Trail the trail became much steeper and the fun started. To this point the hiking was easy with secure footing. From here on we were faced with a great deal of ice generally well hidden under the snow. With Stafford in the lead he was the one that showed us were the slippery spots were hiding. Those after-market parts he has seem to be very well built – they can really take a punch. Stafford went down a number of times, but we would all take our turn.

Things quieted down for a while and we were moving along well when a patch of ice Stafford was standing on collapsed and he soaked both feet. A good leader can make the others aware of potential hazards without saying a word. Stafford was doing his job well, as he pulled himself out of the water. Jennifer and I continued with dry feet on a slightly different track and Stafford followed. Soon, we came into the bare and somewhat open ledges toward the top of Firescrew. Smooth ledge with a layer of ice topped by a layer of powder presents an interesting challenge. We all managed to go down more than once but picked our way across the open sections to the Mowglis Trail, and Firescrew. Unfortunately, the clouds did not break and we were only able to enjoy a view that went roughly fifteen to twenty miles past Newfound Lake. Still, not bad.

When we made it to the top of Firescrew, the westerly wind was strong, at least 30 mph and perhaps more. The ledge was generally covered with a layer of rime ice and the sheltered areas were drifted in with snow.

We headed off for Mt. Cardigan on the Mowglis Trail. This section is generally exposed and on the ridge which kept us in a stiff wind for the .6 miles to the tower. Evidently, we were not alone (is anybody really alone? But, I digress.) Also following the Mowglis Trail was a Jackrabbit (?) – Snowshoe Rabbit (?) don’t know the make and model but it was probably large and covered twelve to fifteen feet with each jump, even when launching from soft snow. Impressive!

We arrived at the tower on the summit of Cardigan. The wind seemed to have gained a little and the visibility decreased. Of course, we didn’t hang around there for very long. Just below the tower is a signpost marking the trails, directions, and distances. We set off on the Clark Trail for the Warden’s Cabin. More snow over ice, rime ice, and slipping and sliding but we made it there with no real problems. At the Warden’s Cabin we stopped for a brief rest, some water, and fresh gloves for me. Between the tower and the Warden’s Cabin were the first human tracks we saw. Continuing down the Clark Trail we came upon three hikers headed for the summit. At the Hurricane Gap Trail we decided to take a side trip to see the AMC High Cabin. Interesting place. I’d like to get a group together and take the place some weekend. We had a quick lunch on the front porch and headed back out to the Clark trail, and beyond. We were generally past the difficult hiking with the smooth, snow-and-ice-covered ledge behind us. We took the Cathedral Forest Trail to Grand Junction and then followed the Holt Trail out to the Cardigan Lodge.

Initially we had a plan to also visit South Peak, Rimrock, and Orange Mountain. The general conditions, lack of views, and wet feet (Stafford’s demonstration of where not to step) told us to head down from the Warden’s Cabin. We had a good hike and left with plenty of reason to return for more. Perhaps next time we’ll take the cabin for a couple nights and try to redline the place.

Snowshoes are definitely not needed but added traction for the upper half would be very helpful.
 
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BigEarl,

Nice TR. I've climbed Cardigan many times but always during the summer months and only from the trailhead at Cardigan State park. This peak is certainly one of the most scenic of the 3k's. Thanks for the info on the Manning Trail conditions at this time of year. Ice on the wide open slabs of Cardigan would be a real concern but if conditions permit I would like to do the Manning as a winter hike at some point.

Ray
 
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Hi Ray,

I think Manning would be a great start for a Winter hike. Add Mowglis to the summit of Cardigan and then pick one of many choices for the return and you've got a nice loop.

If you're Winter hiking you must have snowshoes, crampons, etc. You'll most likely need the added traction, and possibly the floatation. A slip on the open ridge and summit could mean a long slide that will probably leave a mark and may ruin your weekend. The areas finally leading to Firescrew and around the tower are the most concerning to me.

Enjoy the hike. When you decide to move ahead please post the hike, I may be interested in joining the fun.

Earl
 
Cardigan in Winter

Cardigan is a great winter hike. It helps if you've hiked Cardigan in other seasons because there is a lot of above treeline and no blazes to guide you. I do trail work at Cardigan. Cardigan has funny ledges that don't generate much material for cairns so the cairns tend to be small and hidden under snow. Route finding in winter can be tricky. Don't even think about going up Upper Holt unless you're skilled ice climber.
 
Jazzbo,

You seem quite knowledgeable regarding Mt. Cardigan. I understand the AMC will hold a Winter Hiking Weekend Workshop at Cardigan in January. This suggests it is a popular winter hiking spot. Can you tell me if the hiking trails see much traffic in the winter or are the main activities related to the ski trails? I believe the Mowglis trail is blazed in white, which means the paint stripes on the flat slabs in the open areas are not particularly helpful. They’re either under snow/ice or look like snow/ice. Is there usually adequate traffic to expose the trail or does this become an exercise of navigating with map and compass? Finally, when does the Holt Trail become an ice climbers challenge, or has it already happened?

Any other pointers on the place would also be appreciated.

Earl
 
What I know about Cardigan

Hi Big Earl ... I've done trail work weekends there 6 times and been there many times in spring fall and summer. Actually I've only hiked Cardigan & Firescrew once in winter. Time I did it in winter was one of my first winter hikes and it was nice sunny cold day after 18" of new snow. Boston Chapter hosts one winter workshop in January and NH AMC chapters hosts 2 winter workshops in Jan and one in Feb. I think they like it because the Lodge is a very nice venue and proximity to Eastern Mass is easily accessible. The bald summits offer beginners a nice taste of above treeline without the hazards of Franconia and Presi's. There are some steep sloops near lodge where folks can practice self arrest technique with ice axe. :cool:

Like I said in my first post, there's not enough loose rocks available on summit ridge to make cairns big enough to stick out of the snow. Heavens knows I've tried. So it helps if you've been there before. Summit ridges do have a lot of blazes and some are bound to be exposed, but not many. Depends on how snowy the winter is. Deep snow helps so you can walk about looking for the route without worrying about walking on alpine veggies.

I think Cardigan continues to be self service like Carter Notch Hut in winter. That means if you don't wish to do High Cabin, you can come up for overnight bringing your own food and can use the Cardigan kitchen which is very nice.

Cardigan has a nice system of ski trails for back country skiing. Boston Chapter offers back country ski workshops there too. I haven't skiied them, but have worked on brushing them so I've been over them too. I used to X-ski so can attest they would be really nice when they've got good snow.

I also know blazes are one color on west side of the mountain and another color on east side of the mountain. I forget which and I lost my southern NH trail guide so I can't look it up for you. Reason for this is to ensure hikers stay on side of mountain they came up on because it's a long drive or hike if you come down on wrong side of the mountain. :confused:

As for Holt Trail, Upper Holt offers the shortest route to summit. Like the Upper and Lower Manning Trails, there's an upper and lower Holt Trail. Lower Holt is pretty tame, but Upper Holt is challanging. I've only done it once. The AMC guide indicates it's one of most challanging scrambles on an established trail in NH. I can't say as I haven't done that many of the other challanging scrambles in NH. Just below summit are some long steep rock scrambles requiring interesting hand holds for most of the way. They're a bit long so if you make it too far and get cold feet descending is not an option. You have to finish the job. Not recommended doing them when wet or icy. Of course I had a leader's pack and I still had my trekking poles in hand so I had pretty hard time stashing my poles holding on with one hand. If I'd known I would have estashed my poles in advance. I'd say by now there's easily enough ice to make it too technical for who? Me definitely not. For you it may be a piece of cake. :D
 
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