Craig
New member
The Objective:
Mt Whitney, Russell, Muir
The Plan:
Fly into Inyokern airport late Friday night on 4/3.
Return flight on Sunday 4/12.
This would give 9 days in Lone Pine.
The plan was to get my overnight permit on Saturday and access the weather forecast and current mountain conditions. I would wait for a 4 day weather window and plan the following:
Day 1, hike up to Iceberg Lake and set up camp.
Day 2, climb Mt. Russell and return to camp.
Day 3, climb Mt. Whitney, Muir and return to camp.
Day 4, hike out.
This is a goggle earth depiction of the plan.
I flew into Inyokern from LAX on a 25 seat twin engine puddle jumper, the ride resembling a carnival tilt-a-whirl. I thought sure I would never see Whitney although I was sure I would see some mountain range, nose first. The flight attendant said that flight wasn't bad compared to the usual coming into Inyokern.
Having landed at INK with slightly soiled pants, I grabbed my rent-a-wreck and headed north on I395 toward Lone Pine. I decided the sleep at the portal as it afforded a few hours of altitude to help acclimatize. I drove up the portal road all the way to the parking lot thankful that the road was clear of snow. By the time I got there is was about 11:00pm and I was ready for sleep.
Saturday I awoke to a beautiful sunny day. The temperature overnight at the TH was about 20 degrees.
I drove down to Lone Pine and grabbed some breakfast at the local restaurant. At about 9:00am I drove the 4 miles to the visitors center to get my permit. The rangers didn't have any current mountain conditions but described climbers postholing up to their crotch a couple of weeks earlier.
At this point the weather forecast for the week indicated blue skies for Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Tuesday, weather was suppose to come in and remain the rest of the week. I was looking for a 4 day window but if I headed up on Sunday I would get 3 days at least, and maybe the weather would hold off.
The decision was made, I'd head in Sunday and hope for the best.
While at the visitors center I asked if there was a hike near by that I could get some elevation and help further acclimatize. The ranger suggested a hike to the Bristlecone Forest. At 10,000 with about 5 miles round trip this would turn out to be a great destination with the best views of the Eastern Sierras.
Bristlecone Forest has the oldest living trees on the planet. The visitors center at the top of the access road burnt down last year and consequently the last 2+ miles of access road was gated. I parked at the gate and started up the road under blue skies with a slight breeze. After reaching the remains of the old visitors center, I hiked to the top of the hill for outstanding views of the Sierra Range.
I rounded out the day by picking up some fuel, having dinner and spending the night at the portal to further help acclimatize.
Sunday I awoke to another perfect day. The skies were clear, the air was crisp and the parking lot held about a dozen cars. By the time I got packed, had some breakfast my start time was a leisurely 8:30am.
The Whitney trail was clear of ice and snow to the 2nd river crossing at which time I veered off onto the unmaintained mountaineers route. From here the elevation gain would be steady with a substantial base of snow starting just below treeline.
Once above treeline I was a little surprised at the lack of consistent snow cover throughout. The plan of a 3 peak foray partially hinged on adequate snow cover on the ridges and couloirs. Time would certainly tell as I gain elevation.
In no time I had reached lower boy scout lake. There were 2 skiers that had set up bivies on the elevated rocks. I didn't see them but their recent turns on the slopes between upper boy scout lake and lower boy scout lake was evidents of their presents. I also met a fellow that camped at lower boy scout lake and summited Whitney the day before. He was packing up to head down. He said he just spoke with his GF that indicated weather was still forecasted to come in on Tuesday.
The climb from LBSL to UBSL was somewhat steep and with the relentless sun beating down I had to strip down so as not to overheat. At UBSL I stopped for a snack and a few pictures. The afternoon sun was taking it's tole on the snowpack. Throughout the morning the Styrofoam snow was just firm enough to kick an edge and crampons weren't necessary. Now the top couple of inches were getting soft and traction was suffering.
From UBSL the climb got increasingly steeper and then gradually tapered to a steady climb. I passed a 4 man team coming down that said there was a guided group of 10 camped just below Iceberg Lake. This area is a favorite camping site as it avoids a very steep section just before Iceberg Lake that would be difficult with a full pack. I decided to pitch my tent about 200 vertical feet below the group of 10 allowing for a more remote setting. Eventually, 2 other fellows pitched their tent about 200' below me.
I set up camp, had dinner, watched the sun set and went to bed.
Monday morning I awoke to another perfect day. While having breakfast the group of 10 that was camped above me started heading down. The guide stopped and we chatted. He indicated their group had summited the day before under ideal conditions. He also said that weather was suppose to come in Tuesday.
Given the fact that Tuesday may not be a climbable day, the snow pack wasn't as deep as I had expected and I wouldn't have to contend with 12 other climbers on route, I decided to go for Whitney and Muir. Once on Whitney I would be able to check out Russell and access its conditions.
The climb would begin with a leisurely start of 8:30 under sunny skies and firm snow. The other 2 fellows camped below had left at 5:30am for a summit attempt, unbeknownst to me. As I got underway the weight of my now almost empty pack made for swift and nimble movements across the snow slopes and up the final steep to Iceberg Lake. Here I donned my crampons for the first time in preparation of the unknown conditions of the couloir.
Video - Iceberg Lake
The accent of the gully was steep, long and relentlessness in it's ability to inflict suffering. The snow was firm making for good traction but it also deflected attempts at plunging the pick of the ax.
Video - Middle of Couloir
With only a day to acclimatize the increasing altitude and steady angle would make for slow progress.
Half way up I stopped for a much needed break, took a few pictures and had a snack.
Video – Snack Time on the Couloir
After what seemed like forever, I finally topped out of the Couloir for a glimpse of the north/west side of Whitney.
Video – Topping Out of the Couloir
I rounded the corner, took a left and looked up at what would be the final 300' and crux of the climb. The start of the crux was mixed climbing with a fairly high pucker factor.
Video – Mixed Climb on the Crux
Once the rock band was negotiated, the final snow slope came into view.
At the top of the snow slope a couple of climbers were waving attempting to signal their desire to descend. I waved them on and took refuge in the rocks as snow and ice chunks cascaded down and past me. The down climb for them was slow and tedious. I would estimate this section to be a sustained 70 degrees, although it felt like 90 degrees while I was down climbing it.
Continued....
Mt Whitney, Russell, Muir
The Plan:
Fly into Inyokern airport late Friday night on 4/3.
Return flight on Sunday 4/12.
This would give 9 days in Lone Pine.
The plan was to get my overnight permit on Saturday and access the weather forecast and current mountain conditions. I would wait for a 4 day weather window and plan the following:
Day 1, hike up to Iceberg Lake and set up camp.
Day 2, climb Mt. Russell and return to camp.
Day 3, climb Mt. Whitney, Muir and return to camp.
Day 4, hike out.
This is a goggle earth depiction of the plan.
I flew into Inyokern from LAX on a 25 seat twin engine puddle jumper, the ride resembling a carnival tilt-a-whirl. I thought sure I would never see Whitney although I was sure I would see some mountain range, nose first. The flight attendant said that flight wasn't bad compared to the usual coming into Inyokern.
Having landed at INK with slightly soiled pants, I grabbed my rent-a-wreck and headed north on I395 toward Lone Pine. I decided the sleep at the portal as it afforded a few hours of altitude to help acclimatize. I drove up the portal road all the way to the parking lot thankful that the road was clear of snow. By the time I got there is was about 11:00pm and I was ready for sleep.
Saturday I awoke to a beautiful sunny day. The temperature overnight at the TH was about 20 degrees.
I drove down to Lone Pine and grabbed some breakfast at the local restaurant. At about 9:00am I drove the 4 miles to the visitors center to get my permit. The rangers didn't have any current mountain conditions but described climbers postholing up to their crotch a couple of weeks earlier.
At this point the weather forecast for the week indicated blue skies for Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Tuesday, weather was suppose to come in and remain the rest of the week. I was looking for a 4 day window but if I headed up on Sunday I would get 3 days at least, and maybe the weather would hold off.
The decision was made, I'd head in Sunday and hope for the best.
While at the visitors center I asked if there was a hike near by that I could get some elevation and help further acclimatize. The ranger suggested a hike to the Bristlecone Forest. At 10,000 with about 5 miles round trip this would turn out to be a great destination with the best views of the Eastern Sierras.
Bristlecone Forest has the oldest living trees on the planet. The visitors center at the top of the access road burnt down last year and consequently the last 2+ miles of access road was gated. I parked at the gate and started up the road under blue skies with a slight breeze. After reaching the remains of the old visitors center, I hiked to the top of the hill for outstanding views of the Sierra Range.
I rounded out the day by picking up some fuel, having dinner and spending the night at the portal to further help acclimatize.
Sunday I awoke to another perfect day. The skies were clear, the air was crisp and the parking lot held about a dozen cars. By the time I got packed, had some breakfast my start time was a leisurely 8:30am.
The Whitney trail was clear of ice and snow to the 2nd river crossing at which time I veered off onto the unmaintained mountaineers route. From here the elevation gain would be steady with a substantial base of snow starting just below treeline.
Once above treeline I was a little surprised at the lack of consistent snow cover throughout. The plan of a 3 peak foray partially hinged on adequate snow cover on the ridges and couloirs. Time would certainly tell as I gain elevation.
In no time I had reached lower boy scout lake. There were 2 skiers that had set up bivies on the elevated rocks. I didn't see them but their recent turns on the slopes between upper boy scout lake and lower boy scout lake was evidents of their presents. I also met a fellow that camped at lower boy scout lake and summited Whitney the day before. He was packing up to head down. He said he just spoke with his GF that indicated weather was still forecasted to come in on Tuesday.
The climb from LBSL to UBSL was somewhat steep and with the relentless sun beating down I had to strip down so as not to overheat. At UBSL I stopped for a snack and a few pictures. The afternoon sun was taking it's tole on the snowpack. Throughout the morning the Styrofoam snow was just firm enough to kick an edge and crampons weren't necessary. Now the top couple of inches were getting soft and traction was suffering.
From UBSL the climb got increasingly steeper and then gradually tapered to a steady climb. I passed a 4 man team coming down that said there was a guided group of 10 camped just below Iceberg Lake. This area is a favorite camping site as it avoids a very steep section just before Iceberg Lake that would be difficult with a full pack. I decided to pitch my tent about 200 vertical feet below the group of 10 allowing for a more remote setting. Eventually, 2 other fellows pitched their tent about 200' below me.
I set up camp, had dinner, watched the sun set and went to bed.
Monday morning I awoke to another perfect day. While having breakfast the group of 10 that was camped above me started heading down. The guide stopped and we chatted. He indicated their group had summited the day before under ideal conditions. He also said that weather was suppose to come in Tuesday.
Given the fact that Tuesday may not be a climbable day, the snow pack wasn't as deep as I had expected and I wouldn't have to contend with 12 other climbers on route, I decided to go for Whitney and Muir. Once on Whitney I would be able to check out Russell and access its conditions.
The climb would begin with a leisurely start of 8:30 under sunny skies and firm snow. The other 2 fellows camped below had left at 5:30am for a summit attempt, unbeknownst to me. As I got underway the weight of my now almost empty pack made for swift and nimble movements across the snow slopes and up the final steep to Iceberg Lake. Here I donned my crampons for the first time in preparation of the unknown conditions of the couloir.
Video - Iceberg Lake
The accent of the gully was steep, long and relentlessness in it's ability to inflict suffering. The snow was firm making for good traction but it also deflected attempts at plunging the pick of the ax.
Video - Middle of Couloir
With only a day to acclimatize the increasing altitude and steady angle would make for slow progress.
Half way up I stopped for a much needed break, took a few pictures and had a snack.
Video – Snack Time on the Couloir
After what seemed like forever, I finally topped out of the Couloir for a glimpse of the north/west side of Whitney.
Video – Topping Out of the Couloir
I rounded the corner, took a left and looked up at what would be the final 300' and crux of the climb. The start of the crux was mixed climbing with a fairly high pucker factor.
Video – Mixed Climb on the Crux
Once the rock band was negotiated, the final snow slope came into view.
At the top of the snow slope a couple of climbers were waving attempting to signal their desire to descend. I waved them on and took refuge in the rocks as snow and ice chunks cascaded down and past me. The down climb for them was slow and tedious. I would estimate this section to be a sustained 70 degrees, although it felt like 90 degrees while I was down climbing it.
Continued....
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