NH Blitz part 1: The Hancocks, The Tripyramids, Passaconaway/Whiteface/East Sleeper

[Papa Bear]

This summer there was a good possibility that I would go to Labrador for an extended trip. However, for various reasons, that trip did not happen. So I had a whole summer to fill with hiking (among other things). I thought perhaps I could finish up on the peakbagging lists I was working on. Those were the New England Hundred Highest (including the NH 4000 footers) and the New England Fifty Finest. I also had decided that Carrigain would be my last peak on these lists since it was on both lists (as well as the NH 48 and the NE 67 which are included in the HH). I would shoot for Carrigain for October. My birthday is near the Columbus weekend so that was a nice medium term goal. Before this trip, this is where I stood:

Maine: Hundred Highest - all done, Fifty Finest - 4 to go
Vermont: Hundred Highest - 8 to go, Fifty Finest - 1 to go (not counting those on both)
New Hampshire (not including Carrigain): Hundred Highest - 14 to go, Fifty Finest - all done.

So I decided to spend a week in New Hampshire in late June to try and knock off what I could from that state and another week in early July to get what I could in Maine. The problem with my 4 FF peaks in Maine is that they are all hundreds of miles distant from each other. The New Hampshire peaks were much more concentrated. As for Vermont, I'd have to get up there in August. Family constraints caused me to combine the New Hampshire and Maine trips into a single two week period following the 4th of July. Thus occurred my "blitz". Of the 13 days available, I managed to hike all but 1. I did all 14 NH peaks, two of the Maine FF peaks and threw in an AT section I had earlier missed as well as the impressive Tumbledown Mountain, both in Maine. I've been recovering ever since!

Thanks to all my VFTT friends who hiked me over this blitz. It's always more fun when you do things with friends.

Chronologically, this report of 3 days of hiking is the first that I did on this blitz, although I have reported already on some of the later hikes.

Tuesday July 5th - North and South Hancock

This was a travel day. I was staying with my son in the Boston area for the long weekend. On Tuesday morning I picked up a rental car, dropped my wife off at the bus station for her return for New York, and headed up I-93. I had chosen the Hancocks for the first day since it looked like an easy pair to fit into half a day's hiking. Dr. McPeak was interested in doing some hikes during the week also, so he and I agreed to meet at the outlook parking lot by the hairpin turn on the Kanc by noon on Tuesday. I got off at the Lincoln exit from I-93, stopped at the Forest Service office and bought my Golden Age pass. It's $10 for life and lets my park free (among many other things) in the Whites. So at least there is something you can look forward to as you reach retirement age!

I got to the appointed place a bit after 11:30 and there was Dr. McPeak with his beaten up pickup truck waiting. It was warm and humid with some clouds. Rain was forecast for the late afternoon, so we did not delay.

We got moving at about 11:45. The Hancock Notch Trail follows the valley of the North Fork up on the south side.The trail was fairly easy going in this first section and we could occasionally hear the stream below us on our left. After a couple of miles we got to the Cedar Brook Trail which goes off to the left and immediately crosses the North Fork. This trail then crosses Cedar Brook over and over. The book says 5 times but I though I counted 6. Maybe I was counting that first crossing at the start of the trail which technically is not Cedar Brook. Along this stretch we saw a group of young campers with a couple of leaders in a clearing with a no camping sign. They were scouting for a camping spot where they would set up and then do the loop over the two peaks. Dr.McPeak said "Are you going to camp under that no camping sign?" with a little sarcasm. The leader said no we're just looking around.

Soon we got to the Loop Trail which heads up to the right. Dr. McPeak stashed some water and we headed up the North Link Trail since we would be going up counter-clockwise. We soon passed a group of about 6 workers on an AMC trail crew. They were putting in rock steps and we managed not to get clobbered by any boulders they were tossing down the slope. They were all pretty young and it was very hard, rough work. I thanked them for the service they were doing us, but they were just happy to get us past them so they could get back to work. The trail then got rather steep. Or maybe very steep. Or as my notes said "very very steep". Or as the book said "unrelievedy" steep. It was hot and humid and this first climb of my "blitz" really exhausted me. But all things eventually come to an end and at 2:45 I reached the North Hancock summit where Dr. McPeak was waiting. We went off and enjoyed the lookout a few yards off to the side and enjoyed a lunch break. I was a little short on water but I had also brought a liter of Gatorade, and with the climb behind me, I would be OK.

We got moving along the ridge at about 3:00 PM and it was an easy and beautiful trail. Along the way we began to pass small groups of the campers we had met below coming the other way. They were all pretty exhausted from the similarly steep climb of South Hancock they had just done. One poor kid had a bad blister and the leader had to borrow a band-aid from me! He blamed the camp nurse for not putting band-aids in the first aid kit (duh!). But I said, shouldn't you have checked the kit before leaving (double duh!). Anyway, moving right along, we soon reached the South Peak. It was just an hour from the North Peak. The South Peak was more "Pointy" than the North, and although I've heard some say that this peak really lacks enough prominence to qualify as a legitimate 4000 footer, it stands out clearly from the ridge and looked to me very much like a "legitimate" mountain.

The descent was very steep, like our previous ascent on the north side, but the trail seemed less rough. Perhaps it was the trail work being done there, but this side seemed to have a better trail. We got down and Dr. McPeak retrieved his water (which I shared - thanks!) and we were off back to the car. We passed a camp that was set up by the trail crew. They had big heavy tents and it was clear they were living, as well as working on the trail for an extended period.They were lucky the stream was close by so they could get a cooling dip after a hard, dirty day's work. We recrossed the stream 5, or was it 6 times, and got back to the Hancock Notch Trail. I stayed a few minutes to rinse my shirt and hat in the stream and Dr. McPeak went on ahead. It was threatening rain.

By the time I got back to the parking lot, it was raining in earnest, but it was a pleasure to get cooled off and washed off. I reached the car at 6:10 PM. It was a good, if exhausting, first day. I managed to get my stuff back into the car and changed without getting everything soaked. Tonight I would have a brew and dinner at the Woodstock Station and then check into the beautiful Mooselauke Ravine Lodge, where I would stay until Sunday. The blitz had begun.

Mount Hancock and South Hancock: #40 and #41
Distance hiked: 9.8 miles
Elevation gained: 2650'
Time: 6:25
Photos: Hancocks Album

 

[Papa Bear]

Wednesday July 6th - North and Middle Tripyramid

I had a nice small room at the Lodge on the lower floor (away from the noise) and as it turned out, it was a private room for the entire stay. My stuff was mostly dry from the previous day's rain. I was up at 10 minutes to 6 and off before 6:15. I was much too early for the Lodge's breakfast, so I headed down to Peg's in North Woodstock, one of my favorite breakfast spots. After a scrumptious breakfast of blueberry pancakes with bacon, I got moving again.. I was going to meet Dr. McPeak at 7:30 at the start of Tripoli Road. It turned out he could not make it - he had met an old friend and for various reasons the Tripyramids was not possible for them today. So I was on my own.

It was a cloudy day, with showers forecast off and on all day. I was concerned about the slides, but I would decide what to do when I got there. I had decided to go up the Cascade Path which was said to be more interesting than Livermore Road/Trail, so I found my way to Snow's Mountain parking lot (it's no small accomplishment to find your way anywhere in Waterville Valley's endless loops of roads!) I was off by 8:45, and had a little trouble finding the trail. I crossed a few roads and passed an area of newly built homes and finally got into the woods. The trail was muddy and the gnats were numerous. Those are the little buggers that swarm around your head and although you know they don't really bite, they are extremely annoying.

The Cascade Path supposedly goes along a series of cascades but I seemed to get side tracked and the trail and ended up back on the Livermore Trail sans cascades. The trail system is more complicated than either the book or map would seem to indicate, but it was a hot, humid buggy day, so I was just glad to be moving along.

The Livermore Trail is basically a straight flat road that rises gently along the side of the river. There was one impressive cascade a little past where I got onto this trail, so I did not entirely miss this impressive sight. I took a break at the turnoff to the South Slide (which I would not be taking) but the mosquitoes were there in force so I did not tarry. I moved along up to the North Slide turnoff and considered whether I should climb it. It was starting to sprinkle and more showers looked immanent,so I decided to move on and climb the mountains via the Scaur Ridge Trail instead of tackling the North Slide. This turned out to be a good decision since it rained fairly hard throughout the rest of the day. I was getting a "hot spot" on my right heel, so I took some time out to put some Vaseline on it so it wouldn't develop into a full fledged blister. I realized at this point I should have worn my gaiters since things were getting wet, but that was that and onward I trudged.

The Scaur Ridge Trail roughly parallels the North Slide but it is fairly easy and since it follows first the side and then the top of a ridge so although a bit longer, it is much less steep. It reaches the top of the ridge where it meets the Pine Bend Brook Trail which takes you across to the summit along a beautiful ridge walk. It was now raining fairly steadily, but I felt fine.The rain actually was cooling and kept the bugs down. Just before the summit of North Tripyramid, the trail climbs over a series of rock ledges and then suddenly you are at the tippy top of a very pointy rocky summit. The North Slide trail enters just before the top and there are several views. Views of rainy clouds!. Actually the rain was less right at the top. I think perhaps I was in the clouds at this elevation and the rain was mostly below me. I reached the summit at 11:30, took my last picture of the day and after a short break, headed off across the ridge to Middle Tripyramid. The descent from the peak was easier in this direction and I soon passed the Sabaday Trail coming up on the left. The Middle peak is lower and definitely easier in the lest few hundred feet of elevation. I got there at 12:06 and it was too rainy for a picture. I started moving along towards South Tri, but since I was apprehensive about descending the South Slide in the rain - I figured it might be a river of mud - I decided to turn around and return via the Scaur Ridge Trail. Friends told me later that the South Slide would probably have been fine in the rain, but I'll just have to save both slides for another, nicer day.

Getting back was mostly a repeat of the trip up, even including a pause in the rain on the top of the North Peak. The wet boulders were not too bad going down off North Tri and the ridge walk and the Scaur Ridge Trails were as easy as before. I was however getting tired, since I had added a few miles to an already long day. The rain continued unabated and as I got to the Livermore Trail it became a long slog. I had to go back via the cascade path to get to my car,so I took the turn across the stream and got to that trail. But soon after the link trail crosses the stream to where the trail heads over into the rolling hills above Waterville valley, a bike trail goes straight ahead. This was shown on the map and seemed to be a way to avoid some PUDs, so I followed the bike trail which stayed closer to the stream. This was very muddy and offered little or no advantage, but at least I saw a little new scenery.

I finally arrived back at the car at 3:20 and mercifully the rain finally let up. I packed my wet stuff into the car, changed to dry clothes, and started back to,Lincoln. I was early today so I would enjoy dinner at the Lodge, which was great, I stuffed newspapers into my wet boots and by morning they were largely dry. It was a long, wet day but a successful one. The blitz continues!

North and Middle Tripyramid: #42 and #43
Distance hiked: 13.6 miles
Elevation gained: 3200'
Time: 6:35
Photos: Tripyramids Album

 

[Papa Bear]

Thursday July 7th - Passaconaway, Whiteface and East Sleeper

This would be my earliest rising of the week since I had the longest to go to get to the trailhead. I got up at 5:10 AM and trudged to the car through the drizzle. This was not the way to start a day. As I drove down the long hill to get to North Woodstock it was rain all the way. I had another breakfast of pancakes at pancakes at Pegs and was back on the road a little after 6:30. Hey! The rain had stopped- well glory be. The clouds were breaking and bits of blue sky showed through. It looked like it would be a good day after all. Thank goodness.

I took I-93 down to Exit 24 (Ashland) and got onto Route 3/25 and went east to Squam Lake where I picked up Route 113. This was a windy hilly road but when I turned onto Route 113A in North Sandwich it became windier and hillier. Then I saw a first for me: a New Hampshire Moose. I've seen many a Maine Moose but nary a New Hampshire one. He was ambling across the windy road, and If I had tried, I could have hit him (or her). It was a medium sized, dark colored yearling and I can see why so many of them get hit. They don't really seem to know what to do when crossing a road.

I got to Ferncroft at 7:50 and found the parking lot with no problem. There was another couple who had just arrived, and I asked if they were the ones I was supposed to meet. I had arranged to meet another VFTT hiker at 8:00 but this couple was not the one. I got myself ready but eventually left without my partner. I found out later there was an alarm clock problem. No harm done!

I was off to Passaconaway. I chose Passaconaway first instead of Whiteface so I would get both 4000 footers in before the turnoff to East Sleeper, so could skip that Hundred Highest peak if things went badly. I was very happy to choose this direction, since the trails and the views seem to unfold naturally this way. And for once I had good weather and good views.

I passed the other couple where the trails to passaconaway (the Dicey Mills Trail) and Whiteface (the Blueberry Ledges Trail) split. They were also going to Passaconaway so I would see them again later. I passed by a bucolic farm house and then got into the woods. The area around Ferncroft where the trails begin is all privately owned, but the local hiking club (the WOC or Wonaloncet Outdoors Club) has very good relations with the neighbors. It's good to remember that these relationships take years to foster and we hikers should be very careful to respect the property and privacy of these people. It's a lovely area and a beautiful way to start a hike into the Sandwich Wilderness.

The day was still cloudy with a few patches of blue sky with temperatures in the 60s. Perfect hiking weather. The Dicey Mills trail was easy and "well tramped". The WOC maintains the trails in this area and without exception they were well built and well maintained. My right heel was still sore, especially on the up hills. I knew there was some sort of a blister there and tonight I needed to pop it. But for now it wasn't too bad. The trail got steep yet was still well built. At 10:00 o'clock the sun came out! Halleluia! Around 10:30 I saw a group of 8 - 10 kids with a leader coming down. They had camped near the top of Passoconaway at Camp Rich. I soon reached the side trail to the camp and to the summit, and as usual the going got steep and rocky. But there was actually a series of switchbacks near the top and a great viewpoint near the summit with views of the Franconia Ridge to the north and the Tripyramids to the west. I reached the summit at 11:13. This was #44 of the White Mountain 4000 footers for me. I decided to take care of the blister: I popped it and put on a dab of antiseptic and some moleskin and immediately it was more comfortable walking.

I returned to the Dicey Mills trail and met the couple from the parking lot who were coming up. It had turned into a beautiful day, and we exchanged pleasantries. I said that I was going on to Whiteface with a side trip to East Sleeper (which they had not heard of). They would return on the Dicey Mill Trail. Soon I reached the Rollins trail which followed the ridge around to Whiteface. The Rollins trail was rougher and probably received less usage, but the ridge walk was nevertheless quite beautiful. The ridge circles a valley know as The Bowl, which I understand is a largely untracked wild area. It would be nice to explore it some day. There were views across first to the multiple bumps of Whiteface, and then as I made my way around, there were views back to Passaconaway. After several false summits, I reached the unassuming and unmarked true summit of Whiteface and took the requisite photos. The striking (but lower) South Peak, with it's fantastic views would come later. I soon reached the intersection with the Kate Sleeper Trail and it was time for a break. Unfortunately the mosquitoes had come out with the sun and my respite had to be brief.

The Kate Sleeper Trail and the Sleepers themselves are one of the softest mellowest ridges in the Whites that I have seen. After dropping down off of the Whiteface summit cone, the trail traverses an open, verdant area with moss, ferns and Wood Sorrel underneath, and Spruce and Firs above. The whole ridge from Whiteface to the Tripyramids lies above 3400 feet and it is a strikingly lovely high ridge. The hike is a very easy 1.8 miles to East Sleeper, which lies on a short side trail from the main trail. In keeping with the easy going nature of this area, the side trail doesn't just shoot over to the high point, it ambles over, taking it's time to get there! It took about 50 minutes of easy walking to reach East Sleeper and about the same time to return to Whiteface.

Once again the mosquitoes kept me from taking much of a break, so I hurried on to Whiteface's South Peak. This is a spectacular open summit with views in all directions. I would not blame anyone coming up to this point from thinking this is it, this is the summit. The actual summit is totally anticlimactic in comparison. I met a young couple coming out as I started down the Blueberry Ledges Trail. He was surprised to see someone up here so late (it was about 3:45) and so I told him I had come by way of Passaconaway and East Sleeper. He said some of the ledges coming up were quite "interesting". And yes they were!

The ridge back down dropped over a series of truly awesome ledges of probably Class 3 difficulty. It would probably be easier going up, but with care and deliberate moves it wasn't all that bad going down. I thought these must be the "Blueberry Ledges", but where were the blueberries? Well after a pleasant ridge walk below the ledges about 45 minutes later I found the blueberries. Near the bottom of the ridge there were what seemed like a mile of sloping ledges with yes! blueberries. The sun was now bright and the ledges were steep enough to be tiring and they did go on! I'm glad they were not wet. This must be interesting when they are wet or icy.

But today's beautiful hiking in good weather finally came to an end when I reached the car just before 6. With the long drive back I would not make dinner at the Lodge, so the Woodstock Station beckoned! This was the longest day yet, but it was best day so far, and the blitz had turned quite pleasurable.

Mount Passaconaway: #44; Mount Whiteface: #45; East Sleeper
Distance hiked: 15.5 miles
Elevation gained: 4310'
Time: 9:30
Photos: Passaconaway, Whiteface and East Sleeper Album