AOC-1
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2005
- Messages
- 191
- Reaction score
- 43
We hiked 7 miles from Glacier Lodge to camp on a ridge a short distance from the terminal moraine of the glacier, the largest in the Sierras. Enroute we passed beautiful Third Lake and Temple Crag.
[/IMG]
The view from the campsite was inspiring, and included our two objectives, Mt. Sill (on the left) and the U-Notch (center).
[/IMG]
The next morning we awoke before dawn and set out to climb Mt. Sill by a technical route, the Swiss arete, which is the prominent ridgeline over my shoulder in this photo:
[/IMG]
The climb was 8 enjoyable moderate pitches on solid rock, which we climbed under perfectly blue skies. The view from the summit of Sill:
The descent was a bit complicated because of snow on the Class 4 downclimb ledges. We had to rappel some loose gullies and had a few close calls with falling objects.
Next up was North Palisade and Polemonium Peak by the U-Notch. We again got a pre-dawn start and climbed up the lateral moraine of the glacier to gain the notch.
[/IMG]
We easily crossed the bergshrund by climbing steep snow on the left. Later in the season, I can see how this crack can be a problem (a rope and belay may be necessary). Once past the bergshrund, the U-Notch is an enjoyable moderately steep snow climb to the col between Polemonium and North Palisade.
[/IMG]
A fast party passed us at the top of the notch and headed up N. Palisade, leaving us the shady and freezing climb up Polemonium. The guidebooks describe this short climb as Class 4, but many complain it is Class 5. We agreed and broke out the rope. This turned out to be a good choice because many of the cracks were choked with ice. We froze our butts off in the shade, until we broke out into the sun on the summit. At this point, we were too numb to take any photos, or to continue on to North Palisade.
In good conditions, the U-Notch is an enjoyable non-technical climb for climbers confident of their self-arrest skills. However, most people will probably want a rope for the short rock sections above the notch.
The view from the campsite was inspiring, and included our two objectives, Mt. Sill (on the left) and the U-Notch (center).
The next morning we awoke before dawn and set out to climb Mt. Sill by a technical route, the Swiss arete, which is the prominent ridgeline over my shoulder in this photo:
The climb was 8 enjoyable moderate pitches on solid rock, which we climbed under perfectly blue skies. The view from the summit of Sill:
The descent was a bit complicated because of snow on the Class 4 downclimb ledges. We had to rappel some loose gullies and had a few close calls with falling objects.
Next up was North Palisade and Polemonium Peak by the U-Notch. We again got a pre-dawn start and climbed up the lateral moraine of the glacier to gain the notch.
We easily crossed the bergshrund by climbing steep snow on the left. Later in the season, I can see how this crack can be a problem (a rope and belay may be necessary). Once past the bergshrund, the U-Notch is an enjoyable moderately steep snow climb to the col between Polemonium and North Palisade.
A fast party passed us at the top of the notch and headed up N. Palisade, leaving us the shady and freezing climb up Polemonium. The guidebooks describe this short climb as Class 4, but many complain it is Class 5. We agreed and broke out the rope. This turned out to be a good choice because many of the cracks were choked with ice. We froze our butts off in the shade, until we broke out into the sun on the summit. At this point, we were too numb to take any photos, or to continue on to North Palisade.
In good conditions, the U-Notch is an enjoyable non-technical climb for climbers confident of their self-arrest skills. However, most people will probably want a rope for the short rock sections above the notch.
