Pemi Loop Aug. 5-8

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the starchild

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key west. Avatar: south sister rim
My first trip report....a bit late...but with photos!:
http://community.webshots.com/album/418588599AXpBJV

“I’d love to be above treeline as much as possible.” Jano told me over the phone from Oregon as my face and soul grinned. My good friend was returning to the east coast for a few weeks and we were planning a 3 night trip into the Whites. The pemi loop seemed like a great idea and a few weeks later were driving north with packed bags and a great weather forecast.

Day 1 Lincoln Woods to Guyot Shelter

We got a late start on the Wilderness Trail and arrived at the Bondcliff junction around noontime. Gnats were all around us and seemed to enjoy flying suicide missions into our eyes as we hiked in the hot, muggy valley. The second crossing of Black Brook was the last water we saw until Guyot....well except for the buckets and gallons of water dumped from the thunderstorm that quickly decended upon us as we approached the stone steps on the Bondcliff Trail. I got drenched as it was far too hot for a jacket while i watched Jano pull out his travel unbrella and not miss a beat. Curse him and his good ideas!! I did enjoy the cooling weather and the elimination of bugs afterwards though. Soon the slowing rain found 3 pairs of hikers stopped on the trail, talking about the storm and it’s thunder and lightening and the summits and ridges we would soon be approaching. We debated about calling Vegas to get the odds on who would get struck by lightening first on the Bondcliff ridge; the guy with the umbrella or the guy with the big, metal external frame pack!
After passing some time chatting and waiting for the rain and thunder to pass, we began hiking higher again and as we approached the wall to climb up above treeline sunrays were sporaticlally hitting us. Above tree line the post storm views were fantastic. Rays of sunshine, grey clouds, and crazy wind all mixed for a great experience. On top of Bondcliff, a hiker, who had pulled out several items from his pack looking for something, almost lost his pot lid as a gust of wind blew the lid off the pot and sent it rocketing into the air. I mean this thing really freakin’ flew and was luckily retrieved many, many yards down the ridge. We didn’t spend too too much time there as there was still a lot of wind and some unfriendly looking clouds starting to blow over Franconia Ridge towards us. We did not want to press our luck and get caught in another downpour or dodge lightening on the ridge. The wind was really blowing as climbed on the path through the krumholz up Bond. Atop Bond the wind was only getting stronger. We were finding ourselves in and out and under and over the clouds.
Guyot was a very welcomed surprise as there were not many people there, probably due to the thunderstorms. There were only six of us in the shelter and still empty platforms and lots of room to double up if needed. After cooking and relaxing we grabbed a few things and trekked on over to West Bond arriving about half an hour before sunset. The wind was really howling up there but the views were brilliiant! AMAZING! We could trace most of our epic Pemi Loop from there as we looked around 360’ in the light of the setting sun. Bondcliffs, Bond, Guyot, South Twin, Garfield looking nasty as ever, and all the peaks of Franconia Ridge surrounding us and of course Owl’s Head. We also had the rocky summit to ourselves as no one else made the hike up there. A very beautifull, a sunset I will never forget.

Day 2 Guyot Shelter to Garfield Ridge Campsite

After eating breakfast and packing, Jano reminded me of a view I told him about on a past trip. We climbed ontop of the shelter and had a great little view of Washington through the trees. We grabbed our packs and began the ascent back up to the Bondcliff trail and onwards to Guyot. I always love walking in and out of the tiny trees, it has such a mystical quality to it. Someday I’ll hopefully pass through here in a light mist, but today the weather was crystal clear and the presi’s looked close enough to touch. Ok, well not that close, but the cold, Canadian air from the front that passed through the late afternoon before was clear as a bell and gave us awsomely rewarding views in all directions, especially on the summit of South Twin. We enjoyed the view east as we ate and rested before leaving our packs and trooping over to North Twin; which I have never climbed but passed by 5 times. Although I was really looking forward to crossing this one off the 4,000 footer list, I was more happy about the view there than just bagging the peak. The view of Garfield, Galehead and the Pemi was from a vantage point i had never seen and it was exciting seeing everything from a new angle high up on the mountain.
The decent to Galehead Hut seems easier now; perhaps it was all the thoughts of a bottomless bowl of soup for $2 upon our arrival?!?!! Mmmmm......we ate all the veggie something soup and Nate of the croo was kind enough to make some potatoe soup afterwards, Ahhhhh...mooooore Yummy!
We followed all the ups and downs of the Garfield Trail around to Garfield proper and then we really began climbing as we ascended the scrambly section. The views back towards the hut and South Twin were amazing. The actual path of the Twinway climbing straight up S. Twin was clearly visable.
The shelter eas home to atleast a 1/2 dozen people that night and I think every platform was doubled up. We decided to just cowboy camp on a platform, hoping the pertex outer covering on the down bags would really keep us dry as there was a lot of dew there. Our bags did get pretty wet on the surface, but the stellar views of the milky way that moonless night were still warm, cozy and simply amazing.
 
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Pemi Loop Aug 5-8 part2

Day 3 Garfield Ridge Campsite to Liberty Spring Campsite

The next day was the day I was worried about. Lots of climbing and descending after two full hiking days with lots of extra water weight in our packs in order to make it from the Garfield Ridge Campsite to Liberty Spring Campsite. We did have a water filter, which hadn’t been used since the very beginning of the Bondcliff Trail, so we could make water from most any source if needed; but we figured we wouldn’t even have that option. We both had a full three liter camelbacks and a water bottle too.
Garfield was pretty nice on top. The morning breeze still ruled over the sun, but we could tell the sun’s intensity would be growing greatly by the hour. As we began climbing up the Garfield Ridge Trail to Lafayette the sun just got hotter and hotter as the views got better and better. I really liked a spot on the trail where there was a great view over to the Garfield cliffs and then you pass up and over a bump and seconds later have another great view in the other direction of Franconia Ridge. Sweeeeeet!
We took off our packs and had a great rest stop at the last false summit before the arriving at the crowd atop Lafayette. It was a wonderful opportuity to enjoy the views with some solitude and also let our sleeping bags finish drying out. Did I already mention the outstanding views?
I had backpacked the second half of this trip a few years ago in fog and rain with absolutely no views and still had a fun trip. Wow, I had no idea what I had missed. I especially liked the two little ponds I spied between Lafayette and Owl’s Head. Has anyone ever bushwhacked to them?
The drop offs and amazing views only got more dramatic as we headed south along Franconia Ridge. What a great trail! The views of the Lincoln Slide once past Lincoln made me wish I had brought more beta about where to get onto it to decend into the Pemi; now was a great time to scout it out for a future trip! Mounts Liberty and Flume lingered in the distance, Flume looking particularly fun to climb. This whole area of trail is almost a blur to me. There are just so many super cool views of the trail winding along the ridge through the tiny trees and up summit cones. All amazing!
I ran out of water betwen Little Haystack and Liberty but was not worried as water was only about a half hour away. The only bad thing was how slow the water flowed at Liberty Spring. However, the sunset from the bench nearby on a westward facing ledge more than made up for the long wait. Just after the sun went down in a blaze of reds and oranges, nearby on the horizon a sliver of moon and a very bright Mars kept us company. The three northbounders sitting next to us had no idea of the views they would share in the coming days.
We set up Jano’s tarp so I could check out the no see-um netting he had sewn onto it. We ended up just sleeping under it even though it was a beautiful night. It was not dewy at all at this site and there were also a few empty platforms.

Day 4 Liberty Spring Campsite to Lincoln Woods Parking Lot

The next day was to be our last and after climbing two peaks we would be battering our knees on the long decent down the Osseo Trail and back into the Pemi. Little Haystack and Flume were great little, rocky summits. We saw hardly anyone and really enjoyed the trail here. Atop Flume we met the Osseo Trail steward? Not sure exactly what his title was, but the gentleman had been taking care of that trail for over 25 years and of course we gave him a big thank you.
As I predicted, my knees were not happy with all the descending after 4 days on the trail. I just went slow and really used my trekking poles and all was well. The wooden stairs were not as bad as I had remembered and most likely better than the alternative of a rocky path.
Once lower the gnats were all over us again and flying into our eyes on our eyeballs. What is up with that?!?!?!? The humidity was nasty again and I thought about how I usually only go backpacking in Fall, Winter and early spring. But i am happy to admit once higher, the bugs dissappear. Once we hit the Wilderness Trail we soon found a herd path over to the East Branch and ditched our packs and poles and boots and jumped in the water. Well, actually we walked in, and the cold water felt sooooo good. We probably sat there in the water soaking and cooling off for the better part of an hour and were thouroughly refreshed when we finally got out and hiked back to the parking lot.
 
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