Pemi XC Ski Tour

[tompar]

Hello All,

Anybody interested in doing this in the near future? This Sunday looks sunny so far but COLD! Saturday looks a bit cloudy but warmer. Hmmm...

I live in Cambridge and would like to carpool if possible. Perhaps car camping the night before to get an early start (though I love XC skiing in the dark so a night finish doesn't bother me.)

I've been mostly a lurker the last couple of years so my username will probably not be familiar to the regulars. I'm a ultra trail runner in the summer, snowshoe runner in the winter, etc, so I'm in decent shape. Though I'm shooting for a relaxed to moderate pace, I'd prefer to do this with people of similar fitness/experience. I'm not a fitness snob or all that hardcore; I just prefer this not to be a "beginners" trip.

Thanks!

 

[DougPaul]

I've skied a similar "lollipop" route--starting at Lincoln Woods, up Thoreau Falls Tr to Ethan Pond Tr, and return via Shoal Pond Tr. About 24 mi and 1600 vert ft. Snow conditions were good, there was some trail-finding difficulty, and I had to break trail for much of the way. It took me 17.5 hours. (I'm not the fastest skier around... )

Trail finding can be difficult on parts of the TFT and it is significantly easier to ascend TFT than descend it (skins may be useful...). There are 3 or 4 significant stream crossings on the SPT. I suggest that you only try it in very good snow conditions (mine were nearly perfect--6 in of fresh light powder over a hard crust).

Most of the route is covered in "Backcountry Skiing Adventures, Classic Ski and Snowboard Tours in Maine and New Hampshire", by David Goodman.

Doug

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

Never done these routes as a ski-loop, but this February will be our 25th annual point-to-point (directissima, if you like), beginning on Zealand Road (may be plowed for logging now?) and ending at Lincoln Woods, alternating Shoal Pond (about 23 miles total) or Thoreau Falls (about 21 miles total); we always go north to south for the elevation drop, albeit limited. Our times have ranged from 6.5 to 11.5 hours, depending on route, conditions, and our fitness (we are not ultra-athletes). Obviously, dropping down Thoreau Falls is the crux of that route (we usually thrash our way down with skinny skis on; would love to descend TF sometime in b/c gear, but would be too slow the rest of the route). We have found the crux of the SP variation to be the section of the Wilderness Trail between Stillwater and the TF Trail junction, as there are a lot of steep dips in side gullies and lots of side-sloping in between the large gullies (funny that there is no mention in the Dartmouth route description). We usually need to break trail in the middle portions of either route. I think that both of the loops described by Dartmouth and DougPaul would be much more difficult that ours. I have heard rumor that this winter could be the last for the WT suspension bridge about 7.0 miles in, so our Pemi ski traverse will be a little tougher in future years on the east side.

 

[DougPaul]

Never done these routes as a ski-loop, but this February will be our 25th annual point-to-point (directissima, if you like), beginning on Zealand Road (may be plowed for logging now?) and ending at Lincoln Woods, alternating Shoal Pond (about 23 miles total) or Thoreau Falls (about 21 miles total); we always go north to south for the elevation drop, albeit limited. Our times have ranged from 6.5 to 11.5 hours, depending on route, conditions, and our fitness (we are not ultra-athletes). Obviously, dropping down Thoreau Falls is the crux of that route (we usually thrash our way down with skinny skis on; would love to descend TF sometime in b/c gear, but would be too slow the rest of the route). We have found the crux of the SP variation to be the section of the Wilderness Trail between Stillwater and the TF Trail junction, as there are a lot of steep dips in side gullies and lots of side-sloping in between the large gullies (funny that there is no mention in the Dartmouth route description). We usually need to break trail in the middle portions of either route. I think that both of the loops described by Dartmouth and DougPaul would be much more difficult that ours.

I don't think my route (or the Dartmouth route) is that much more difficult. Just a bit longer and they traverse both the SPT and TFT.

I was solo, took a side trip, and had a few other time wasters so it wouldn't be hard to beat my time.

I don't recall any noteworthy difficulties on the SPT between Stillwater and the TFT junction other than some stream crossings. But it was at night and 5 years ago. IMO, the TFT is harder (steep section near the falls, some ups and downs where the RR used to cross the river, and some route finding difficulties) than the SPT, but has fewer stream crossings. I also used skins to climb the steep section of the TFT.)

One little tidbit that I found amusing was that I started on special green wax with a green kicker at a temp of -4F and sequentially worked my way though the waxes to finish with special purple at ~20F. (I used waxable BC skis.)

I have heard rumor that this winter could be the last for the WT suspension bridge about 7.0 miles in, so our Pemi ski traverse will be a little tougher in future years on the east side.

Actually it is 5.4 mi from the road, but I agree: losing the bridge will be quite a loss. I've skied the East Side Road a number of times--the WT/LWT is a bit easier but I don't see it as much of a problem.

Doug

 

[Dr. Dasypodidae]

I don't think my route (or the Dartmouth route) is that much more difficult. Just a bit longer and they traverse both the SPT and TFT.

I think that the elevation gain alone makes either of those loops much more difficult and longer timewise than our Pemi point-to-point; even a few hundred feet difference in elevation gain can be huge on skis, I think.

I don't recall any noteworthy difficulties on the SPT between Stillwater and the TFT junction other than some stream crossings. But it was at night and 5 years ago. IMO, the TFT is harder (steep section near the falls, some ups and downs where the RR used to cross the river, and some route finding difficulties) than the SPT, but has fewer stream crossings. I also used skins to climb the steep section of the TFT.)

No question that the upper Thoreau Falls route is harder up or down, especially with light-weight x-c skis. But, some years we have found the upper part of the Wilderness Trail between Stillwater and the Thoreau Falls Trail Jct on the Shoal Pond route to be so onerous that we have taken to the bed of the East Branch when it is frozen, coming out right at the lower bridge on the Thoreau Falls Trail about 0.2 mile up from the WT. There is also an old logging road north of the river that we have used as an alternative for this section. The lowermost 2-3 miles of the Thoreau Falls Trail north of the lower bridge is wonderful x-c skiing, even when breaking trail.

One little tidbit that I found amusing was that I started on special green wax with a green kicker at a temp of -4F and sequentially worked my way though the waxes to finish with special purple at ~20F. (I used waxable BC skis.)

Love it! We always carry wax kits, but seems that no matter the temperature in the parking lot on Rt. 302 we usually throw on special blue with a blue kicker that wears off on the first hill on the Zealand Road, then rarely rewax or scrape the rest of the day.

Actually it is 5.4 mi from the road, but I agree: losing the bridge will be quite a loss. I've skied the East Side Road a number of times--the WT/LWT is a bit easier but I don't see it as much of a problem.
Doug

Whoops, I meant Stillwater Junction, which I believe is around 7.5 miles. But, the nice part of our point-to-point traverse is that after we take our last rest at the 5.4-mile suspension bridge, it is a cruise usually in tracks the rest of the way out to the Kanc; some participants have made it out to Lincoln Woods in less than 35 minutes from here (two of the women participants in 1988, who were accused of being plants from the East German Nordic Ski Team! ). The East Side Trail with its ups and downs will definitely be slower in future winters.

 

[tompar]

I really appreciate all your detailed comments!

Thanks!

 

[The Lisa]

This is great beta from everyone, good to know it. I only have heavy BC gear but I look on it as providing an extra workout when I do these ski tours.

 

[DougPaul]

I think that the elevation gain alone makes either of those loops much more difficult and longer timewise than our Pemi point-to-point; even a few hundred feet difference in elevation gain can be huge on skis, I think.

Yeah, but once you figure in the time to do the car spot...

IIRC, the SPT--TFT junction is a steady gentle grade (all logging RR and road) with the exception of the stream crossings. Easy kick and glide either direction.

No question that the upper Thoreau Falls route is harder up or down, especially with light-weight x-c skis.

Agreed--I used skins plus vegetation grabbing for the climb by the falls. The 1.5 mi section leading up to the final climb also has a bunch of steepish up-and-overs (over headlands)--I walked the downs because I didn't want to risk a fall or a slide out onto the ice. I also had some route-finding difficulty in the 1.5 mi section and some difficulty finding the beginning of the final steep climb. (There were only occasional ski marks in these sections--just enough to confirm that I was on the trail, but not enough to follow.)

But, some years we have found the upper part of the Wilderness Trail between Stillwater and the Thoreau Falls Trail Jct on the Shoal Pond route to be so onerous that we have taken to the bed of the East Branch when it is frozen, coming out right at the lower bridge on the Thoreau Falls Trail about 0.2 mile up from the WT.

Bad snow conditions?
I carefully waited for perfect conditions: rain a week before followed by a cold snap and 6 inches of fresh snow. (Heat and rain were predicted for the next day, so it was a use it now or lose it situation.)

There is also an old logging road north of the river that we have used as an alternative for this section.

I crossed the river and skied a bit of this to make sure that it wasn't the trail. (This was my side trip.) There is a blaze at the crossing, the USGS topo showed a trail crossing, the treadway suggested a crossing, and the markings (on the current trail) to the N were very poor. A snowshoer had also come across here. (His tracks suggested that he had bushwacked down from the vicinity of Mt Bond.)

The lowermost 2-3 miles of the Thoreau Falls Trail north of the lower bridge is wonderful x-c skiing, even when breaking trail.

Yep--very easy. An old RR bed alongside the river.

Love it! We always carry wax kits, but seems that no matter the temperature in the parking lot on Rt. 302 we usually throw on special blue with a blue kicker that wears off on the first hill on the Zealand Road, then rarely rewax or scrape the rest of the day.

I, of course, had to rewax too keep up with the warming temps. Maintained a good kick and a good glide the entire time.

Whoops, I meant Stillwater Junction, which I believe is around 7.5 miles. But, the nice part of our point-to-point traverse is that after we take our last rest at the 5.4-mile suspension bridge, it is a cruise usually in tracks the rest of the way out to the Kanc; some participants have made it out to Lincoln Woods in less than 35 minutes from here (two of the women participants in 1988, who were accused of being plants from the East German Nordic Ski Team! ). The East Side Trail with its ups and downs will definitely be slower in future winters.

I figured that once I crossed Crystal Brook on the return I was safe--just easy kick and glide on old RR beds remaining. But I took more than 35 min. I may not be fast, but I have good endurance if I can pick my own pace. And I have a good headlamp and a spare or two. (Did 12 mi in the dark.)

The East Side Tr has one up and down at the entry and IIRC wanders through the woods at one point. A bit harder than the LWT, but not by much. (I will admit that I rather like the easy kick-and-glide of the WT/LWT after a long day...)

But traverse or lollipop loop, they are all nice ski routes. Sounds like both of us have done all of the trails, just in different combinations.

Doug

 

[spencer]

I've been meaning to do this trip for a long time and this thread has reminded me I must have at it. I had a college professor who talked about doing it every year with buddies...
I've skied several parts of it but never the whole thing.

sounds like my kind of adventure!

 

[tompar]

Wow. What a long, cold, beautiful day. I can't believe I was getting back to Lincoln Woods at 1am. (I elected to the trip DougPaul outlined). I may do a longer trip report later.

I really underestimated the difficulty of this trip; especially the trek up TFT! Next time (which is not anytime soon) I will bring skins to do the TFT and bigger baskets for my poles. And also a spare! I lost one half way through making the naked pole mostly useless in the deep powder.

Despite having to break 5" of powder on previously broken out trail, there was a lot of kickin' and glidin' going on for most of the day so I was happy. I had lots of route finding difficulty coming down on the SPT and basically just trusted a pulk trail would get me back to the WT. Most of this was on the (mostly) frozen river with a couple of dramatic close calls with ice starting to give way. Probably not the smartest thing to do in -6 degree weather.

I think my Fischer Silent Spiders were too light (too short and skinny) for the day. If I was in a group with shared trail breaking responsibilities, they would've been just fine.

I'm beat. Thanks again for the tips.

 

[--M.]

Congratulations!

Been following this thread with some interest, as a couple of us will be going from Zealand to LW, with some skiing included. And then you mentioned the skis I just bought.

Too short, too thin, too light, huh?

I got the longest ones and have been loving them out the back door. But the biggest thing is that they now can cross-match with heavier skis (Karhu 10th Mt.) and heavier boots (Garmont vs. Alpina) in a 3-pin binding. I have guessed I'd use the heavier set-up (especially as I'll have an overnight pack), but it's great to hear the idea confirmed.

Will you write a fuller trip report?

Congratulations again!

 

[DougPaul]

Wow. What a long, cold, beautiful day. I can't believe I was getting back to Lincoln Woods at 1am. (I elected to the trip DougPaul outlined). I may do a longer trip report later.

You beat me! I got back to the car at 2:30am. (Left the car at 9:00 am.) Darkness caught up with me about at the junction of EPT and SPT.

I really underestimated the difficulty of this trip; especially the trek up TFT! Next time (which is not anytime soon) I will bring skins to do the TFT and bigger baskets for my poles. And also a spare! I lost one half way through making the naked pole mostly useless in the deep powder.

Its a nice one... I was in decent shape and waited for perfect conditions when I did it.

Despite having to break 5" of powder on previously broken out trail, there was a lot of kickin' and glidin' going on for most of the day so I was happy. I had lots of route finding difficulty coming down on the SPT and basically just trusted a pulk trail would get me back to the WT. Most of this was on the (mostly) frozen river with a couple of dramatic close calls with ice starting to give way. Probably not the smartest thing to do in -6 degree weather.

I had to "full" break about 1/3 and "half" break another third. I stayed off the rivers except for crossings.

I think my Fischer Silent Spiders were too light (too short and skinny) for the day. If I was in a group with shared trail breaking responsibilities, they would've been just fine.

I used full-metal-edged BC skis (Tua Escapes, 190 cm, 65/54/60 mm, waxable, camber-and-a-half). They were a good match for the job. Skins on the northern half of the TFT were also a big help.

I'm beat. Thanks again for the tips.

I was too--the skiing was ok, but the last hour of the drive home was the killer. A big part of a tour like this one is being efficient. (link to thread on skiing efficiency )

I'll be interested in reading more details after you rest up.

Doug