Presi Traverse 6/18: Good, Bad, and Ugly!

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SherpaKroto

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No Reading, MA Avatar: Crater Rim, Mt Rainier, 8/4
I drove up from MA after a wacky stretch of misfortune. Thursday I was on a train that was turned away due to a "hostage crisis". Friday, the train broke down. On the way to NH, my brakes started giving me issues. I met Daxs and JayH at the airport, and we no sooner headed north than the sky blackened like I've not seen in a long time. We all just stared for a few moments, probably wondering why the heck we were doing this. We passed throngs of Motorcyclists huddled in the underpasses, like lemmings in St Patrick's original parade. Fortunately, as we drove on, a slight break happened, a rainbow shown through, and we relaxed a bit.

We got the car spots done (a tough thing with 14 people), stashed a bailout vehicle at the Ammo lot, had a quick brewski (or more), and hit the bags to the sounds of Moe and StrangeBrew (yes, Sean and the event tent were up!). I closed my eyes, and soon heard the insistent chirping reminding me that it was time: 2:30AM. I heard no one stirring, and figured I'd make the first move. About 30 seconds after I left the warm and comfortable tent, the rain started. Just a reminder of what lay ahead. Donna was there to help us shuttle, as promised (thanks Donna!). TMax was smiling and ready, a few of us bleary eyed, all determined to put boot to the trail. About 10 minutes after I was up, I thought "where is MichaelJ when I need him?" as I bolted into the nearest woods, trowel in hand. It would indeed be a long day :(

Getting groups ready always takes longer than expected. Throw in a bit of bad weather, and it gets worse. We got on the road at 4:00, hit Appalachia and the trail at 4:30, spirits high, dampened only by the rain itself. The rabbits soon were ahead, not to be outdone by the tortoises on this day. We settled into a good rhythm in our group of Guinness, Daxs, Meri, TMax, Marco, Yvonne and me. The pace was perfect, and things were going well. About 2 hours into the hike, I knew I'd better make the Valleyway tentsite soon. Mayo and me don't agree, and it was doing it's best to prove that. I barely made it, wisely remembering that the privy would have no paper. 20 minutes later :eek: , I was again headed to the Hut where I reached the others. We were on our way!

JayH headed off for Adams with Jean and Nat as our group started for Madison. As we climbed, SwampYankee and Giggy were returning. We made the summit in good pace, took pictures (ha!) and headed back. I slipped and looked down at my now broken pole! D*mn! Barely 5 miles into a traverse on a slick day with one pole! I've learned to rely on them... Oh well. We had more room to move than when we first arrived, but we still managed to upset a few of the folks sitting and reading. Dried off, said hey to Arm and SkiMom who were both smiling, and then Meri and I headed off toward the Airline. We soon ran into Jean and Nat coming toward us. Jean had fallen and had a lot of blood on his hand. He had done a great job of trailside first aid, but was wise to be heading to Madison Hut for some treatment (all is well). Jay had continued solo, and was about 30 minutes ahead of us at that point. Meri and I took "interesting" routes to the summit (I now call being off trail "doing a Meri"), and passed a few folks along the way. Just shy of the summit, I saw Giggy and TMax coming toward us, and I got a bit nervous. Just a slight navigational error. We met Guinness and Carol, who had come up via the Start Lake trail, on Adams summit. Summit time was short, and we quickly headed down Lowe's. It was easy to see why Jean had fallen - this section was slick and rough. We took the shortcut to the Gulfside on Israel Ridge Path (rougher and slicker yet!), and were happy when we reached it, ahead of schedule, wet, but smiling. Slogged through the ups and downs which are the Gulfside Trail, trying to remember which hump was Adams 5, we soon reached Edmands Col. I was hoping that the weather would improve as we waited for Guinness, Daxs and Meri to arrive. When they did, 5 minutes later, I knew I had to get moving, and headed up towards Jefferson. Staying warm became a theme, and I was again feeling good when I reached the Jefferson Loop trail. Daxs stopped, looked up and said "guys, I'm cold and need help". Gotta love a woman who knows what she wants! She dropped pack, got drier, did a dance when she found her warm hat and gloves, and was soon toasty and ready to rock! I headed off again, and she and Guinness followed about 100 feet later. I heard a yell to look up, and lo and behold - blue sky. Ok, a patch of blue sky (Disclaimer: it really wasn't me woo-hoo'ing on Jefferson around 11:30 on Saturday. Really, it wasn't). I reached the big cairn, and yelled up to Giggy "Is Donna there?". I heard Donna in reply "Nope, she went back to bed after dropping you guys off". There she was, #48 done! Well done, sweetie! We lucked out and got to spend a good 20 minutes on the summit. Only regrets - none of us brought her a beer! (we owe you and will make up for it on your 67th!) The skies welcomed her anyway, and we got our only break from the rain!

Off we went toward Sphinx col. The weather was still taking a break, but it was short lived. All we had to do to make it rain was take off our jackets. Which we did, and it did. I kept saying "Sphinx col is right over this next hump". I seem to have forgotten a few of those humps! I also seem to have forgotten where Monticello Lawn is (thank you Giggy!) I have NOT forgotten how beautiful it is there however. Giggy said he wanted to take a look at his feet as he felt some blisters working, and he was right. Ouch! Out came moleskin, and I suggested that he cover that with duct tape to keep it in place, which Meri provided. A quick repair job, Guinness, TMax and Daxs joined us, and off we went again. At Clay loop, Meri, Giggy and I headed up Clay, the rest stayed on the Gulfside. Clay is a nice spot to gaze into the Gulf, and very peaceful with the Cog in the distance, and I was still feeling good. Meri picked this opportunity to remind me the I was 50, and she was nowhere near that by flying up the loop. She burned up the trail as I kept my steady pace going. We met again at the summit, and then continued to meet the rest at the end of the loop.

As we reached the Westside trail, I was wondering about heading up George. The weather was awful, no wind, but cold steady rain. The kind where even the ducks stay inside. When we reached it, I was thankful when Meri said she was skipping Washington, heading to Lakes. I was happy to go, knowing the rock hop from Big George would not be much fun. About the time I was regretting my decision, it really started to rain. And I really started to slip. And slide. Regret faded, but with one pin fallen, the others were teetering. Lakes was looking like a great bailout (remember Giggy's truck?), though I did not relish heading down the Ammo after a day of rain. We reached the Cog, and I could not miss an opportunity to entertain the cattle. Our timing was perfect as 2 trains were passing, with one on the spur. With the rest of the crowd watching, down went the shorts, a few wiggles for effect, and the June mooning of the Cog was again accomplished. I got waves from the patrons. Even the conductor yelled something, but I couldn't quite catch it ;) My apologies if that visual scarred you for life. I did notice that no one in our group took my picture.

The rain continued to get worse, and as we reached the upper lake, I soon found myself singing my version of McArthur's Park":
"Someone took a hike out in the rain -
I don't think that I can take it!
I'll fall on my a** and break it!
Then I'll never get to pass this way again!
Oh no!"

Lakes was a welcome site. We entered a full room of people, like the river rats that we had become. We managed to secure a table (who would sit next to us anyway?), and got real comfortable, real quick. Food was abundant, dry clothes found, and it became clear that we were heading down. Brief discussion of options ensued, relative merits of Ammo over Edmands, and it was decided that we would head down to Giggy's truck, despite a slick route. Down we went. I don't know about the rest of the group, but I had some close calls as this felt more like a log flume than a trail. It was really wet, and though disappointed, I knew that we had made the right choice. At 6:30, we were done. Hiking over 16 miles and 6,550 vertical a day like this felt pretty darn good to me!

We hopped in Giggy's truck and headed over to the Highland Center where we found JayH, our rabbit, all smiles having finished a full Presi traverse. Later that evening, SwampYankee made his entrance (after we had some nervous moments wondering where he was) after finishing his traverse, adding Jackson and Webster for effect (Guinness had inadvertently given this feat a name the night before when he announced that he'd like to add "Webster and Jackster", so this became the "'ster Traverse": Webster, Jackster, Piercester, Ikester, Frankster, Monster, Georgester, Clayster, Jeffster, Adster, and Madster. And then Swamp went out and did it in the rain! 24 miles, over 9,000 vertical feet! Of course, the VFTTer's weren't quite done yet. Arm and SkiMom were out behind us, taking in the sites, lounging in the heat on George's summit, eventually deciding to do a bit of hiking themselves, finishing their traverse shortly after Swamp.

So, the next time anyone asks if VFTT encourages us to get out there, remember this one. On a cold rainy day in June, 16 of us were together on the Presis (Jean and Nat drove up from Hiker's), one finished her 48, and everyone else hiked for over 16 miles! It's safe to say that those who find their way here love to hike!

BTW, Seema, Blue and MtnTop are the smart ones. They waited a day and did their successful traverse under sunny skies on Sunday!
 
Sherpa
The trip sounds like a lot of fun. some day I will do it.
 
Sounds identical to the traverse attempt we made several years back. Same route, same bailout (TR on Dave's site somewhere). It was a heck of a lot of fun then too!

Good on ye' folks!! :)
 
It was fun , but had some nasty parts where cold rain dampen spirits for me -which sherpa has a great knack of keeping the fun factor up.

2 things I learned on this trip - simple stuff that I took for granted

1) never rely on someone else - when tmax and I were on the top of adams (we came up star lake) there was a group of about 10 people hovering over the sign at the summit - I yelled "is that the way to the gulfside" pointing to cairns going down and they said - yep. They were right - it was air line to gulfside - not isreal ridge to gulfside. damn good thing we saw sherpa becuase we would have added milage and time needlessly. Thats how quick it can happen in nasty conditions. I take full blame though - as I should have read the sign. Sorry tmax - (it was only 10 minutes but still... stupid error).

2) Never - ever, ever wait to pull that moleskin out I know it seems basic 101 stuff but when it is rainy and cols like that it was easy to put it off - my feet were so wet (waterproofing???) by the 8 mile mark that I could feel some rubbing - but it wasn't that bad and I thought - small blister - I will deal with later - wrong answer - by that time and 2 layers of skin later (went to doc today - with rainier coming up no chances being taken - needs to heal fast!!)) - the rest of the trip was less than fun for me. I rarely have blister issues and my boots are well broken in - had to be wetness - was that the worng time for that to happen.

On the plus side - I was carrying a pretty good load (30-35 pounds) in the pack and cardio and leg wise I felt good which makes me feel good for rainier. I can't say I reccommed carrying that much though as I dumped most of my water weight after clay.

I am never ashamed to say I learned something new on each trip. sorry for the winded post - but if someone learns from those errors - it was worth it.

fun trip overall - meeting new people, etc... Moe, beer that night, fire, food, -
 
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giggy said:
- They were right - it was air line to gulfside - not isreal ridge to gulfside. damn good thing we saw sherpa becuase we would have added milage and time needlessly. Thats how quick it can happen in nasty conditions. I take full blame though - as I should have read the sign. Sorry tmax - (it was only 10 minutes but still... stupid error).

Was there a week ago and the signs on top of Adams were a mess...one was down and it looked like the arrows for Lowe's Path and Israel Ridge were all pointing in the wrong direction...it was confusing with out the map...
2) Never - ever, ever wait to pull that moleskin out - my feet were so wet (waterproofing???) by the 8 mile mark that I could feel some rubbing - but it wasn't that bad and I thought - small blister - I will deal with later - wrong answer - by that time and 2 layers of skin later (went to doc today - with rainier coming up no chances being taken - needs to heal fast!!)) - the rest of the trip was less than fun for me. I rarely have blister issues and my boots are well broken in - had to be wetness - was that the wrong time for that to happen.


I find waterproof to be a very relative term...waterproof, treated boots are good to a point but they cannot handle major incoming (rain/streams) or outgoing (sweat)...

Sounds like a successful training run for Rainier...I hope one of you will be keeping us up to date from Washington!
 
Did I actually dance when I found my hat? I know I yelled woohoo! Despite the weather I had a great time. The traverse was an excellent warm up for Rainier. I usually try and tough things out. I hate asking for help but I knew I was getting hypothermic on this trip and felt it best to ask for help. We had a great crew up on the mountain; everybody was looking out for everbody and we were able to laugh and have a good time despite the weather. AND with those cheap airfares from Philly to Manchester, I hope to do more White Mountain hiking. I have tentatively pencilled in 9/24 as the date to finish what was started. Thanks to everybody I hiked with this weekend.
 
Sherp: I won't believe you mooned the cog without photographic evidence!

Glad you made it down safely, slip slidin' away!
 
Puck said:
Sherpa
The trip sounds like a lot of fun. some day I will do it.

Me, too, but I'm waiting for sunshine!! :D
 
So again I owe my wife & family since had there not been a Bridal shower Saturday, I most likely would have been on this trip instead of "forced" to move the usual Father's Day weekend hike ahead one weekend where Scattered T-storms all weekend meant a 45 minute shower with a few light & sound effects thrown in.

I believe the mooning & if any photographic proof is out there, I DO NOT want to see it :eek:
 
Been there in good weather and been there in bad weather. I'll take either when you can share it with a bunch a crazies like we are. My only regret is going up with little sleep (then again who is to blame). I must admit, I felt very good on the trip and I think with a little proding, we all could have finished it. It really comes down to this, we have nothing to prove to anybody!

Now what is this about 9/24? Am I missing something? I think we can call it the "Tackle the Presidenster Range".
 
Sun with the Moon Out

Hey Sherpakroto nice trip report! Ofcourse you weren't going to have much sun with the Moon out. I'm glad that all of you made it out safely with the exception of one person getting a bruise.
 
Good bad and Ugly?...

I guess I feel compelled to post then :D

Its amazing that in consecutive weekends it went from brutal heat and humidity to cool rain on the Presi Range. Hard to think of our attempt last week the same way, other than to note how every day on the same spot can be a different experience.

Glad you all had a great time a made it out relatively unscathed- and not suprised JayH was a full traverser!

Hope to get back out there and give it a mini traverse try again in Spetember as well.
 
Great day with great people... I feel so good about going to Rainier with this crowd. We're strong, solid, dedicated, and make good group decisions without difficulty (other than my brief whine :eek: sorry!). Somedays I just get speechless at the how wonderful life is. Thanks for letting me into this whole VFTT thing. It's really powerful to hang out with other absolutely crazy and obsessed individuals, who "get it" and to know it's not just me! I'll be there 9/24 for the "Tackle the Presidenster Range." But I'm also looking at the 4rth week in August. I'll be there all week.......LIFE IS GOOD!
 
I thought "where is MichaelJ when I need him?"

After all the @#%! you've given me? Welcome to my world, buddy. ;)

Glad you had a safe hike, though, and no major injuries. As bad as the weather was, the alternative could have been in the high 90's, baking everyone to a crisp before an afternoon assault by violent thunderstorms...

And big congrats and hugs to Donna for her 48!
 
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Congratulations to everyone! It was certainly an interesting day to be hiking. As Ivy and I did the 1.5 miles up to Arethusa in the rain on Saturday afternoon we remembered you guys and hoped that you were able to postpone the traverse until Sunday as we did for our big trip.

Rain or shine though a hike with 'family' is always a great time :)

Bob
 
daxs said:
Did I actually dance when I found my hat? I know I yelled woohoo!
daxs,
Now I had already started up the hill (trying to keep warm myself!) so I wasn't there to actually witness it (unlike Sherpa's moon which I did witness :eek: !!) but I can believe you danced, it would have been a dancing moment to find anything dry! P.S. I think you have one of the the greatest "woohoo's" I've ever heard and does it carry a long distance up there above treeline :)
 
Are there any cogs on Rainier. If so, please please please, put me in front of Sherpa on the rope team..

I spent too long last night at Campmor (and they still were out of Hudson River guides) so I didn't get a chance to post my pictures or even go online.

All I can say is I had a blast with all of you at camp, I think what really did me was coming upon a group of hikers just in from Appalachia on Valley Way. I saw the group of young'ums and decided that I needed to pass, After that, I noticed I dropped Swamp and Guy and was by myself. So I pushed up the easy grade til I ran into Jean and Nat. I hiked with them pretty much up to Madison. (We did not stop at the hut on the way to Madison, just on the way back, which is where we ran into most of the slower group). Ran into Swamp on the way down when he was on the way up. Spent a bit of time in Madison Hut until it just got to weird with the AMC vols doing some kind of Hanz and Franz impression. It was pretty full house in there anyway. Rain started in earnest when we left towards Adams on the Air Line. I thought we had some real cool views on Madison as it wasn't as socked and you could see clouds heading up Valley Way and the stuff.

Adams was fun, no wrong turns like the rest but then I was able to simply follow Jean and Nat at the time, who know the area better than I. This was my first hike in the Presidentials as Tuco and I did a Pemi loop last August. Coming down Adams I was in front of Nat and behind Jean when I saw Jean go down. He seemed to slip sideways and then did like a half roll and I saw him bang his knee on a rock. Seemed like he was OK, except for some blood I saw on the end of a finger. Damm finger cuts are bad, bleed alot and can be hard to heal sometimes. Anyway, Nat. came down and administered trailside first aid to some bleeding cuts. In the drizzle no less. Ouch! But at least there wasn't any major wounds, missed hitting a head on a rock, and the knee wasn't bad. This was definitely a sign of what was to come as there would be many rock scrambles up and down the summit loops.

At the intersection of the Israel River and the Gulfside, Jean decided to go back to Madison so both of them turned north while I continued solo this time south towards Jefferson. This was the last I saw any other VFTT for the rest of the day until Crawford Notch. I was hiking with 2 others who I would leap frog with as I would do the loops and many of them didn't. I would pass them on the gulfside trail and then they would pass me when I went off to do the loops. I would finally drop them after Clay and never see them again. Jefferson was fun, one large cairn and a huge rockpile to the west of Jefferson that I climbed up to get a view of clouds and haze. Nobody on the summit and off I went.

Off to Clay. Upon summiting Clay, kept hearing the cog railway closer and closer, figuring I must be getting real close to Washington... Never saw it though, just heard the whistle. Up and over clay and a very slight down to head towards Washington, crossing the cog again sometime after the cog passed over. Nothing major on Clay, took my summit shot and moved on. Nobody to be seen here.

The climb to washington was uneventful, ran into some folk s at the junction of the Gulfside and Westside trail. Towards the summit of Washington, I could hear crowds and people up there. With this weather, I did not expect to see many folks there which was a complete surprise when I crested and saw tons of people in mylar safety blankets all running every which way. Turns out it was the road race day and the slow finishers were finishing. Anyway, made a bee line to the summit sign and took a bunch of photos before it was overrun with runners and kids. Then went towards the food for lunch. It was just about High Noon when I got to Washington after a 4:25am start. Good time to get some food in me and I went and got 2 hot dogs, a bowl of Clam Chowder and a muffin. Drank some gatorade and had some nice conversations with some of the runners from the race as they were all changing into dry clothes.

About 12:30 I decided to leave, Saw a sign for the Crawford Path and headed towards the Radio Towers. Once I found the path, here's where I ran into more folks headed up towards Washington. Ran into somebody in jeans and a cotton t-shirt at around 12:45 asking how long til sunset.... Well, I told him it was one of the longest days of the year and he had about 8 hours to go for daylight... Well, I put that off as something strange as he was only about 1/2 mile out of the summit.

Anyway, the crawford path was fairly wet in spots, mostly as the grade descended back below treeline after Eisenhower but I ran into 2 guys who skipped washington and hiked with them pretty much all the way to Lake of the Clouds. The one guy using an umbrella as a rain tool.

Monroe summit was very nice, I think it would be spectacular in the clear, I liked how long it was and there was some nice dropoffs that I could see that would be nice. Monroe was the only summit I didn't take a photo of since it was raining pretty good then and I didn't want to stop.

Franklin was another nice little summit. I noticed an informal and unofficial (no trail sign) path that loops around the summit. I noticed this before and after Franklin so there must be an informal bypass trail for this peak too even though my map shows there's no side trail. But I followed the summit loop up and over.

Got to eisenhower around 3pm to see the sun actually slipping through for 5 seconds and a somewhat view west towards Crawford Notch. (I could make out a road that might of been 302). Anyway, took a picture of the rusting sign at the summit (Anybody know what this used to say????) and continued..

Anyway, the rest of the trip was very very wet as the crawford path would fill up. Reminded me of the ADKs once it got below treeline. Got to the intersection of the CP and the trail to Pierce. Having memorized the map when I was at Washington (inside), I knew the trail was short to the summit (kind of like going to Guyot from the Bondcliff trail). so I decided to go bag that peak. Good thing, cause I had some recollection of him being a president.

At this point, I took the map out and calculated another 3ish miles to go do Webster/Jackson than going the 2.9 miles down the CP to the Highland Center. 3 more miles and some elevation gain/drop and my ETA of 5pm that I gave myself, I was looking at a 7-7:30 finish if I wanted to do Webster and Jackson. Had worries about missing a shuttle at the end if the folks bailed at Jewell or Ammo. So I decided just to do Pierce and not even go to the Mizpah cutoff trail, just up and back down to the CP. The trail down from the CP was a small stream but I made very good time cause at this point, my boots were soaked and it wasn't any better than to try to rock hop. Just wade through the puddles.

Got to the highland Center at 5:05pm to spotting clouds and the parking lot in front of me. Coming over the small high, I immediatedly recognized TMax's Car and Seema's car. After a further walk, I saw what I assumed to be Arm's car just by the plate. Settled in and wandered around the area, saw HarryK's car down by the train depot. Sat on the Highland center's patio for a bit while I wait the 2 hours til Guy's truck came into the parking area and everybody came piling out the bed...

So, my 12.5 hour traverse is done.


P.S. I think if you guys go in September, count me in. I'm free EVERY weekend with this long a notice. I am going to try the loop, looked at the map last night, I think it would be possible to do

Willey, Field, Tom, then loop down to go do Webster/Jackson loop on both sides of 302. Then if you guys do Washington first, I might be able to run into you on Webster or Jackson....

Jay
 
Nat and I had a great time despite the weather and my little accident. It's always nice to meet up with the VFTT family.
Hand is healing very well. Turns out it was cut at 7 different places, nothing too deep but I pretty much used up my entire first aid kit.
Looking forward to give it another go very soon.
 
Jay H said:
Franklin was another nice little summit. I noticed an informal and unofficial (no trail sign) path that loops around the summit. I noticed this before and after Franklin so there must be an informal bypass trail for this peak too even though my map shows there's no side trail. But I followed the summit loop up and over.
Jay
Jay - I enjoyed your summary of your traverse a lot! Real nice flow to the writing. Sounds like a great trip except I lament over your lack of views! In my opinion, the views from the Northern Peaks are great when looking to Washington but otherwise, a little boring. The views from the Southern Peaks are absolutely spectacular. Actually -- so is the view from Jackson. Hopefully you can do it again on a nice day (contact me -- I'm in).

Oh, re: Franklin. I don't want to seem insulting, but could you have been on Little Monroe? The Franklin Summit isn't noticeable going South, really. From Eisenhower, Franklin looks very prominent until you get up onto it and realize it's just a shoulder off Monroe (which is just a Craggy shoulder off Washington, really). Monroe however is double summitted and perhaps you mistook the smaller of the Monroe Summits (Little Monroe) for Franklin? I don't recall ever seeing another trail or even herd path in the vicinity of the actual Franklin Summit (25' Prominence). I could be wrong but I'm curious.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/307274523/307352128UueOYo -- Little Monroe is on the Left, Monroe is on the Right and Washington is behind. This is taken from the Franklin "Summit"

-Dr. Wu
 
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The Franklin Summit isn't noticeable going South, really.
I wont dingo-dog ya mate, but ya couldn't be more wrong. Frankie is my favorite summit in the southern presis, best views of em all!!! :D :D :D

Heya Sherp ya never did say who was the "good, bad and ugly" respectively. But ..., i can se ya with a lil cigar between yer teeth yelling ahead to the fast ones "hey Blondie! Blondie come back, Blondie you @#%&*!!" LOL :)
 
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