Presi Traverse, S to N, plus Isolation, 8/3/05

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JohnL

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At the end of the road
Part One: The Fun

I was in a void, not lost, but not knowing where I was. Slowly my self came back to me through the mists. But my pants were beeping. What was that all about? Oh yes, it’s the alarm clock I had stuck in my shorts pocket so I would not accidentally shut it off or knock it off my top bunk. I shut it off and lay there waking up. I was on the top bunk in the small bunkroom of the Shapleigh Bunk House in Crawford Notch. It’s a scary place to be if you’re not clipped in. Barely the width of an adult human, if you rolled over you could send yourself into a brief but startling free fall to the wooden floor below. I was not about to let that happen so I tossed and turned all night worrying about it. The thunderstorms around midnight didn’t help either. As a result, my attempts to wake up were thwarted by a primal urge to go back to sleep. Even so, I made my way up and past the full house of bunks, waking a few along the way, to the public room where I readied myself for the day ahead.

Once outside the fog was so thick I could barely make out the hotel next door. I walked down to the road and made the quick walk to the Webster-Jackson trail head and at 4:48AM I turned my headlamp on and I was on the trail. If you have ever turned your car high beams on in a thick fog, then you know what I was seeing as I made my way up the trail. Pitch black, thick fog and the reflection of the fog shining back at me thanks to my very efficient head lamp. Hiking in the dark is not my favorite thing especially when it is wet and I can’t see past my headlamp reflection of the fog. I have had a couple early morning incidents with bear and moose in the past and I did not feel like repeating them, particularly when I could not see much past my own feet. So with every step I took, my vitamin pills rattled noisily in a plastic film canister which I had stuffed in my shorts pocket to warn any of the large forest mammals of my approach. But then, my eye caught a movement just ahead of me on the trail. I focused my headlamp beam on the being, a small frog, and as I did, it leaped toward me. I jumped back. After the deep sigh and laughter, I felt better knowing that no one was looking.

The fog did not get any thinner as I climbed higher but up near Tisdale Spring I began to feel the breeze as it started to pick up. Mt Jackson was fully socked in. Passing the Naumann tent site and Mizpah Springs Hut about 6:45, I heard the first people of the day stirring to start their day. Mts Pierce and Eisenhower were socked in as well and I noted their passing with only a quick photo of the summits. On my way up toward Mt Franklin, I happened to look behind me and noted that here and there the fog bank was beginning to break up. I could even see completely into the valleys below but for only a brief peek. Upon turning around and commencing my walk, I startled a deer foraging in the brush about 50 feet to my right. She quickly bounded out of sight. Her wild exuberance was a delight to see. I see deer literally every night around my house and neighborhood and their tameness is downright boring. Moments later another hiker came over the hill and I mentioned the deer to him. He had seen her tracks in the mud all the way from Mt Monroe and after saying our good-byes I kept my eyes open for traces of her. Sure enough, there they were, all over the trail in the soft soil. Delicate little hoof prints, unlike the monstrous moose prints I so often see in these woods. I saw her once more across an open meadow. She was merely a silhouette in the mists. She quickly noted my presence and left a white tail tracer in the mists as she disappeared over the horizon.

I continued climbing in very thick fog and came upon six people huddled together. I was 25 feet from them before I realized I was at the summit of Mt Monroe. I had never climbed Monroe from this side and with the thick fog obscuring my vision, I did not recognize at all where I was. I stayed only a moment before moving on. I turned around a couple times and looking back toward the summit was rewarded with a three second glance of the silhouette of Mt Monroe which I quickly snapped with the camera. I stopped into Lakes Hut to restock on water. I checked the weather report and winds were steady in the 25mph range with a peak gust in the past 24 hours (it was now about 9:15) of 68mph. I could only imagine what it was like on Washington and the northern Presidentials. I was here on Saturday climbing Monroe and Washington with my family and the weather could not have been more different. Sunny, 10mph breeze, upper 50’s. If you don’t like the weather, wait a minute!

I continued up the Crawford Path and branched off at the Camel Trail. I made my way across the misty open meadow, sometimes struggling to see the next cairn and sometimes being treated to an open vista depending upon how the winds moved the fog past my vision. The walk over to Boott Spur was interspersed with occasional views into Tuckerman’s Ravine. The wind was at my back and the walking here was easy and eventually I climbed up to the high point on this section of the Davis Path. Cresting over the top I could see the long gradual descent into the woods of the Davis Path and on toward Mt Isolation. The weather to the south was totally clear of clouds and ground fog and I had a wonderful vista to look at the whole way down. Once into the woods, the trail narrowed and I was now fully engulfed by the forest. Three campers were on their way up, having camped near Isolation the night before. They noted how overgrown the trail was ahead of me. As I made my way through there however, I did not get that same sense. Perhaps the trail is a bit more primitive than other more popular trails but that tends to lend a certain charm to the trail. I continued my way south and soon came to familiar ground where the Isolation Trail comes in from the east. I had been in here a week and a half ago climbing Mt Davis for the first time. I summited Mt Isolation but did not enjoy quite the same beauty of views that I had 10 days before. It was still nice to be here just the same. I did not linger as I realized that I had not yet reached the half-way point of today’s hike. Another mile would get me there.

I repeated my walk back up Boott Spur and it was a long slow grind as the miles were beginning to take their toll. I was glad to crest the ridge and begin a descent to the Lawn Cutoff. Upon arriving there however, I was a bit dismayed to see that the Lawn Cutoff descended more than I thought it would to get to Tuckerman’s Junction. Washington’s headwall looked very daunting from here. And it was. I briefly considered taking the Davis Path over to the Crawford Path but dismissed that since I was just over there on Saturday. So I headed down to Tuckerman’s Junction where I began the ascent of the headwall; 900 feet of elevation gain in only 6/10 of a mile. All of that after more than 18 miles of hiking. What the hell was I thinking? So I took a couple deep breaths, and a hundred after that, and grunted my way to the top. The final indignities hitting me as I crested over the top into the parking lot was the 30mph wind whacking me in the face and the stairway to the summit building. I tried not to look too wobbly legged as the lactic acid burned in my quads and seared its way into my memory as I strutted up the steps. I took refuge inside where I took a well deserved recovery break. It was 1:45 and time for a little rest.

(more)
 
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Part Two: The Agony

A half hour later I was bundling up with my wind gear as I had caught a chill while inside resting. At 2:20 I left the building feeling refreshed and took a photo of the three remaining peaks to climb. I didn’t realize at the time what a struggle it would become. I headed down the Crawford Path and quickly met up with the Gulfside Trail. As I crossed the railway tracks I thought about mooning the train crowd but alas, there was no train to moon. I continued down into the col between Washington and Clay where, having warmed up again, removed my jacket and pants. Aaaahh! Much better. I averted Clay and continued on the Gulfside Trail, a section I had never been on as I had always gone up and over Mt Clay. The walking was generally easy here but I rolled my left ankle over completely to a hard stop for the second time today. I looked back at the ground and it was a very flat section. I could not figure out what made the ankle turn. Ten minutes later the same thing happened. Same ankle. Now for the third time today. The ankle was not bothering me at all but before I got to Sphinx Col, the outside of my left knee was knocking at my front door saying hello. At first it was just a nagging little gotcha but soon would turn debilitating for me. I struggled on both the ascents and descents.

I figured I would make all the ascents of the peaks since most of the climbing was really between the Cols and the loop trails. I would just have to suck it up and go for it. The going was slow but I was managing to keep most of the pressure off the knee. I might have had better success on a normal trail but the uneven path and the rock hopping were creating challenges for me. At 3:40 I scrambled to the top of Mt Jefferson. The view over to Mt Adams was daunting to say the least. But I knew that most of the climb up Mt Adams was getting to Thunderstorm Junction. I worked my way down Jefferson and gratefully made it back to the Gulfside Trail where the walking was a bit easier. The flat sections, what there were of them, made for an easier time. Getting my mind off my knee for a short time also enabled me to enjoy the scenery without distraction. And it was magnificent today. I noticed some people resting at Edmands Col, thinking that they might be thinking of camping there for the night. But once I got down there, they only had day packs and were just taking an afternoon siesta in a wonderful spot.

From the Col, I worked my way upward toward Thunderstorm mostly without any discomfort though I knew that with each step, I was making the knee just a little bit more unstable. I looked back a few times toward Mts Washington and Jefferson and the views were wonderful. Sunlight, clouds and shadows played across the mountain slopes and provided me with an ever changing landscape. It was a great place to be. I came upon the trail junction sign for the Israel Ridge Trail up Mt Adams and though I had planned to go right to T-Storm Junction and then up, I went up from here knowing that this ran into Lowe’s Path a short ways up the mountain anyway. The short climb up to Adams’ summit was slow but steady and at the summit were huddled about six people, all crowded around the summit sign. I took a photo of Madison, thinking “only one more to go” and headed down the Star Lake Trail. I have been up this trail several times but have never descended it and the landscape did not look familiar. I noticed several cairns in the distance and I also knew that the Star Lake Trail and the old Adams Slide Trail coincide for a while then branch off. I did not want to get messed up with that at this point. So I headed back up to the summit and then I headed down Air Line, carefully scrambling my way down the boulder oddities until I hit the lower flat section and eventually the Gulfside Trail. This last section of the Gulfside Trail dropped me down quickly to the Madison Hut which I passed right by and headed up the Osgood Trail. It was 5:45 and the sun was sinking lower with every step.

I slowly made my way up Madison’s summit cone, taking my time and caring as best I could for my aching knee. If it could swear, I’m sure I would have heard a monologue straight out of Full Metal Jacket directed squarely at me. I rested for 15 seconds every now and then to give my knee the false impression I was caring for it but quite frankly, at this point, I just wanted to keep moving. About half way up I got a second wind and my knee actually cooperated and we sauntered up the last difficulties and over the little ridge to the summit. It was 6:10 and all I had to do now was to get down. 4.3 miles to go and I was going to get some relief. I take medication that does not allow me to take anti-inflammatory pills nor pain killers so I have no choice but to seek relief from stopping my activity or finding a happy place in my head and just sucking it up. Life sucks and then you adjust.

Back to the descent. I was extra careful now that I only had a half mile of rock hopping left and then I could get on a normal trail, if you want to call Valley Way normal. It is one of my least favorite trails in the summer though I thoroughly enjoy it in the winter. The top part of the trail is an exercise in walking on rolling rocks as you negotiate the six inch high exposed root systems of all the local trees. In my condition today, it was the least type of desirable terrain I could have asked for. Needless to say, the experience today on Valley Way was very low on the enjoyment scale. I had been favoring my left knee for so long that now my right knee began to scream, “WTFO”. I grunted and groaned my way down the trail, stopping innumerable times to stop the throbbing in my leg. Didn’t work. The trail just went on and on and when you are in a hurry or are suffering or both, you just cannot seem to make any headway. In my mind every mile seemed like two and every step down hurt just a little bit more than the last one. When I hit the junction with the Watson Path, there was 2.4 miles to go and I could hear the cars out on Rte 2. What’s up with that? Teasing me with the sound of cars is not nice. I’ll let you hear the cars, John, but I won’t let you see them. So for 2.4 miles the cars didn’t get any closer. The woods were getting darker and I could just see the sun making its last appearance before the horizon rose to swallow the glowing gas ball. Then it disappeared altogether. The woods were now getting dark and I was too damned lazy to stop to get my headlamp out of my pack. I would get off this trail before it got pitch black or I would bounce off every tree in my way when I did finally make it. I just did not feel like stopping. Finally I broke out of the dark woods and crossed the old railroad bed and there were all the cars I had been hearing for the last 2.4 long miles. And best of all, one of them was mine. And in it was a cotton shirt and sandals. And a nice comfortable seat. Heated for my aching back. And a bag of ice in the cooler for my knee. It was heaven disguised as a little black Subaru.

A little over 30 miles and just over 10,000 feet of elevation gain. And loss. Not bad for an old faht.

I’ll post my photos when I get back home to download them off the camera.

JohnL
 
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Great trip report! We look forward your photos! A few of us are planning a North to South traverse, so this is a great timing. Congrats on the trip. One question - what time did you finish?
 
:eek: How does it go? "It couldn't happen to a nicer person." Congratulations!!
 
That is easily the very best trip report I've ever read. You have a great "voice" that mixes in humor, a sense of wonder, action and drama. I felt as though I was there with you every painful step along the way.
 
bobandgeri said:
One question - what time did you finish?

I think it was 8:20. I forgot to look at my watch until after I had dropped my pack, changed my shirt, got the ice bag out and prepared for the ride back to Waterville Valley. That would make it 15 1/2 hours overall.

JohnL
 
Awesome trip report. I loved reading it. I agree with hiking in the dark in early morning - not my favorite thing to do.
 
Wonderful trip report - really a great read!

Throwing Isolation in there ... phew! :)
 
Ok, I wanna join JohnL's "Old Faht's Club"! So, I hiked (I do not run) up Carrigain on Tuesday the 16th of August in 2 hours and 4 minutes, and was back at the car in 3 hours and 45 minutes total, for a 2.67 mph pace (spent 12 minutes on summit and a total of 4 minutes for two water stops on the way up, so if I could have done the trip non-stop, I could have averaged almost 2.9 mph). Whether or not I can keep up even a 2 mph pace this weekend on a 30-mile Presi traverse (including Isolation) remains to be seen. My best time on the Pemi Loop, which is about the same length as the Presi traverse with Isolation, is just under 15 hours, for about a 2 mph pace, but I think that the Pemi Loop might be a bit easier with the long flat parts at the beginning and end? Thanks for stimulating me to take a crack at this challenge; I am psyched!
 
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