Presidential Traverse, 9/5/2009

vftt.org

Help Support vftt.org:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BIGEarl

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 18, 2005
Messages
2,103
Reaction score
293
Location
Nashua, NH
September 5, 2009: Presidential Traverse

Trails: Valley Way, Watson Path, Osgood Trail, Gulfside, Airline, Lowes Path, Jefferson Loop, Clay Loop, Crawford Path, Monroe Loop, Franklin Loop (herd path), Eisenhower Loop

Summits: Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Clay, Washington, Monroe, Little Monroe, Franklin, Eisenhower, Pierce

Hikers: Trail Trotter (Sue), Steve, and me


The wake-up call came early, especially for Sue. I believe she actually shut the alarm off Friday night for a Saturday hike. I met Sue at the Exit 6 Park & Ride early and we drove to Crawford Notch to meet Steve and spot a vehicle at our ending location. On schedule we spotted the truck at the Webster-Jackson trailhead on Route 302, loaded our things into Steve’s vehicle, and headed for our start at Appalachia. We planned for a 4:30am start from Appalachia and were actually hiking at 4:35am; – so far we’re doing great!

The first part of our hike was planned to be Valley Way to the Madison Springs Hut. With the help of our headlights we made our way toward the ridge. The temperature was very comfortable in the mid 50’s and there was no wind at lower elevations. The forecast for the day published by the Mount Washington Observatory was:

"In the clear under decreasingly cloudy skies. Highs: Mid 40's. Winds: NW 20 - 35 mph w/higher gusts early."

As the day went on we would learn this forecast was well off the mark in the area of wind speed. According to recorded conditions, the actual winds exceeded 50mph with higher gusts. Once above the treeline, we had a drafty day – all day.

Slowly we warmed up in our early hike along Valley Way. As we hiked I was thinking about a possible change to the plans. Steve and Sue had previously hiked Valley Way but I wasn’t sure if they had been on the Watson Path. I haven’t hiked the trail in a while. When we reached the Valley Way – Watson Path trails junction I asked if there was interest in a small change. I described the Watson Path as a steep climb to the summit bypassing the hut. Actually, this is Sue’s favorite type trail. In a couple minutes we had the decision out of the way and were hiking the Watson Path to Madison.

The early part of the trail still shows signs of tree damage probably from last winter that had been cleared. We worked our way through the early section leading to the brook, made the crossing at the falls, and headed up. The climb from the stream crossing to the summit is generally continuous. Along the way the trail is in great shape. It’s rough enough to provide good footing and we were able to make pretty good time to the treeline, and beyond. At the treeline we started to experience the high winds and additional layers started to come out. Overhead the clouds were really flying past and we knew there was some wind waiting for us on the summit. We continued through the false summits and finally made the summit of Madison. There were broken clouds above and below. Some of the distance views with undercast were terrific. We quickly got our summit pictures and were off for the rest of our hike.

Leaving Madison the Osgood Trail drops off to the east side of the summit cone and we were out of the wind for a brief period, which was a welcome relief. Slowly we made our way down from Madison to the Madison Springs Hut and had a brief stop for water, etc. In only a few minutes we set off on Gulfside headed for Adams, our next target.

The climb from the hut to the summit of Adams doesn’t appear to be very difficult but it includes ~1000 feet of elevation in .9 miles. We just finished 4200 feet in elevation on the way to the summit of Madison. Hiking a N-S Presi Traverse gets much of the elevation for the day taken care of early. We made our way to the Air Line junction, turned left and headed for Adams. Another .5 miles and 600 feet and we would once again find more wind than the experts were predicting; nice brisk conditions. On my first Presi Traverse the conditions were very similar with a high, gusty wind. On that day a wind gust took me out on the climb to Adams and I opened both knees. I was careful to avoid a similar problem on this hike. We hit the summit, got our pictures, and took off for the lower elevation on the ridge and more pleasant conditions.

By the time we reached Thunderstorm Junction the sky had cleared out and we were treated to generally full sun. Next target, Jefferson. On the hike to Jefferson we had a couple surprises. First, Steve took a pretty good fall. A face plant on the Northern Presidentials will certainly leave a mark and this one did. Everything stopped for a few minutes while Steve took care of a couple cuts. After a while we were back on the trek south. Suddenly I heard a voice from behind calling “Hey, BIGEarl” – it was Farmer (Ryan) on his record attempt for a Presi Traverse. We greeted each other, shook hands, I wished him luck, and he was off. I managed to get a couple pictures as he continued on his journey. He sure seemed to be moving well as he ran past us. After the excitement of Steve’s fall and Ryan’s run-through, we had a quiet hike to Jefferson. When we reached the summit we found clouds had blown in and there were no views, and no reason to hang around. We quickly got some summit shots and were off for our next target, Mount Clay. The wind blew the clouds out as fast as they cam back in and we were again hiking in sunny conditions.

The hike across Monticello Lawn back to the Gulfside Trail and on to the Clay Loop went quickly. We made the turn and headed for the summit of Mount Clay, peak number four for the day. I remember the last time we made this trek with Bryan and MadRiver. On each summit MadRiver announced our arrival by shouting the peak number. We made our way to the summit ridge of Mount Clay, continued across to the high point, got a couple pictures, and continued our hike south to the junction with Gulfside. As we were leaving the summit area we came upon a group of three hikers headed north; Bob & Geri, and MadRiver (Rick). This was a nice surprise and a good time for a break. While we visited Steve was able to rework the bandage on his arm that he earned on his earlier fall. Eventually we said our goodbyes and set off for Mount Washington, the next target for the day.

After passing the Clay Loop – Gulfside south junction we started running into a huge number of Coggers. There sure were a lot of people too cheap to buy a round-trip ticket but they were able to purchase some very stylish hiking sneakers for the day. I saw lot’s of new shoes between this trails junction and the summit. I also heard the same question – over and over; “Is this the Jewell Trail?”. After a while I started to answer the question with a question “Do you have a map?” I know, silly question – nobody had a map. Eventually I got tired of dodging Coggers and stepped off the Gulfside Trail and walked up the work area that follows the cog tracks. At the junction with Gulfside I crossed the tracks and followed the trail to Trinity Hights Connector and on to the summit. What a crowd! Somebody was making money – either the Cog, or the Auto Road, or probably both. It sure was easy to want to leave the summit of Mount Washington as quickly as possible. We got some water, had a quick break, visited with do_truancy (Isabelle) on her NH48 completion and UFC, and were off.

It’s all downhill from here – sort of. Most of the elevation for the day is finished after reaching the summit of Mount Washington. There are small gains at each of the remaining targets but nothing like our experience on the Northern Presidentials.


Continued......
 
Next target, Monroe. I had planned to check in on my feet while at the summit of Mount Washington but there were too many crazies there and I decided the LOC Hut was a better choice. I was wearing new boots. Breaking-in a pair of boots on a Presi Traverse is probably not the smartest thing I’ve ever done but I had hiked twice before in them and eventually I needed to do a test. The left foot was fine, the right foot had some problems. I added moleskin and repackaged my right foot into the boot.

After a short delay we were back in the hike and on final approach to the summit of Monroe. The afternoon conditions were great. We had clear sky and still plenty of wind but the lower elevation of the Southern Presidentials brought lower wind speeds by probably 10mph. I believe all of us were becoming aware of the time and the amount of hike still ahead. We spent way too much time on Mount Washington. We probably spent too much time visiting with Bob&Geri and MadRiver. But we were also enjoying the day and that’s all part of it. After a very brief stop on Monroe we continued. The hike across Little Monroe and Franklin went quickly. As we left Little Monroe we also left the extremely rough granite hiking conditions and had a much better trail surface to work with. Finally, some foot relief. The run to Eisenhower was a quick one. Soon we were working our way along the Eisenhower Loop to the summit, got the summit pictures, and continued down the south side back to the Crawford Path. Our initial plans for the day included Jackson but it looked like our Presi Traverse would end with Pierce and then the exit to Crawford Notch. It was getting late and hiking to Jackson would probably mean an exit time of close to midnight. Without carefully managing the day, it’s easy for a hike like this to get out of control. On his site, Mohamed Ellozy defines a Presi Traverse:

“The minimal traverse goes over Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Clay, Washington, Monroe, Franklin, Eisenhower and Pierce.”

This would be our Presidential Traverse for the day.

We made the short hike from Eisenhower to Pierce without any problems. At the summit of Pierce I revisited my right foot before starting the exit hike. By now it was dark and we had the headlights out. A little over three miles and we would reach the trailhead having completed another Appalachia to Crawford Notch Traverse of the Presidential Range. We took our time on the exit hike stopping as needed to care for our tired feet. Eventually we hit Route 302 and made the road walk to the trailhead parking for the Webster-Jackson trail. On Mount Washington Steve agreed to drive another vehicle from Crawford Notch to Appalachia, which saved us the need to make the return run. We quickly packed our things and said goodbye. Steve headed for Appalachia, Sue and I headed for a short stop at the Highland Center and then the drive south.

Thanks Steve for joining the fun. I hope your recovery from the fall is a quick one. Sue, we had another long day (over 24 hours again). Thanks for making it a really good 24 hours.

Now to decide the next one.


Pictures will follow.

:D


I’ve posted some pictures from the hike.


BIGEarl's Pictures


Straight to the slideshow


:D
 
Last edited:
Hey Earl, thanks for inviting me along. This was my first Presi Traverse. I was unsure if I could do it or not, but I made it. It's too bad I lost the use of my left arm after coming down Mt Adams, but the landing could have been worse. Even with two good arms, I'm pretty sure I'm no threat to Farmer. :D

here's the pictures that I took.
 
But Dude ..... Where's my car?

Hey Earl, thanks for inviting me along. This was my first Presi Traverse. I was unsure if I could do it or not, but I made it. It's too bad I lost the use of my left arm after coming down Mt Adams, but the landing could have been worse. Even with two good arms, I'm pretty sure I'm no threat to Farmer. :D

here's the pictures that I took.
 
very entertaining reading. way to go folks! hopefully SteveHiker's face doesn't look like Swamps avatar!
 
awesome trip report! It sounds like it was really fun!
Thanks. We had a great day. Steve might disagree but he'll be okay.



Hey Earl, thanks for inviting me along. This was my first Presi Traverse. I was unsure if I could do it or not, but I made it. It's too bad I lost the use of my left arm after coming down Mt Adams, but the landing could have been worse.
.....
Steve, Sometimes it's tough to stay upright - especially in the Northern Presidentials. I hope you heal fast and come back again. We have a few more interesting hikes on our list. :eek:



But Dude ..... Where's my car?
This may be a silly question, but....

How many beers does it take to make a car disappear? :rolleyes:



Earl, Sue , Steve, Great hike, and even better pictures
Thanks Skip,

Hope you and Liz can join us on another one soon. ;)



very entertaining reading. way to go folks! hopefully SteveHiker's face doesn't look like Swamps avatar!
Thanks.

:D:D:D


I’ve posted some pictures from the hike.


BIGEarl's Pictures


Straight to the slideshow


:D
 
nice hike guys. hope to join you guys on another one sometime soon.

bryan
Thanks Bryan,

We had a good day.

Please let me know when you have an open day. I've got a list for the next couple months that has a number of hikes you would find interesting (I think). Some are traverses, some are drive-bys (trailhead-hopping combos). They're tame compared to your Pemi Loop but still interesting - if you don't mind operating in a lower gear of course.
 
Oh man, Earl; I wish I'd know you were organizing this ahead of time!!! I would have told you NOT to let Steve out of your site. You never know when you're going to have to stop for a rest room break and then it would be "I'll just walk on ahead a little ways and you can catch up with me." Next thing you know, you're miles away and he's on a spur trail which you've gone past ...... and 4 hours later you finally find each other at the trailhead. :p:D hehehe

Seriously, you gotta' watch that guy! ;)
 
Oh man, Earl; I wish I'd know you were organizing this ahead of time!!! I would have told you NOT to let Steve out of your site. .....
Seriously, you gotta' watch that guy! ;)
Thanks Chris,

Actually, Sue and I were able to keep him between us for a lot of the time. Another place that was popular was up front - right where we could see him.
;)


Congrats on completing the traverse. That is some feat!

grouseking
Thanks. It's a fun day that feels really good when it's over. It continues to feel really good for the next couple days. :eek: Everybody should try to fit at least one into their schedule each year. Sue and I were lucky to hike two last year and this was our second this year.

Never say never - we may try for one more.

This was also Steve's first Presi Traverse but I'm sure he'll be back again.
 
Great TR...I really enjoyed the photos with varying degrees of "broken undercast" and fog. That is an awesome day!
 
Great TR and Pix BigEarl. I was cruising up 302 Saturday morning, and thought I recognized your truck just south of the Highland Center. I figured you guys were doing some sort of traverse. It was a great day in the Whites!

take care
Petch
 
Great TR...I really enjoyed the photos with varying degrees of "broken undercast" and fog. That is an awesome day!
Thanks. The air north and west of the Presidentials seemed much less turbulent than the air to the east. The images of the Pilot and Pliny Ranges and over Berlin seem to show very stable cloud layers. The views east to the Carter Range and Carter Notch show very unstable cloud formations evidently from the turbulence caused when the wind passes over the Presidentials. Especially when we were on Madison the clouds were really moving from the west.

When I started to go through the pictures from the day I found there were over 200 and most came from the Northern Presidentials. There were many of the interesting overcast/undercast conditions.



…..
I figured you guys were doing some sort of traverse.
….
Thanks Petch,

That was a safe bet.



Nice report! that is some hike.... I'm looking forward to hitting those Northern pressies one of these days.
Thanks. It’s a fun area, but be ready for tough hiking conditions. Many people feel the Northern Presidentials have the hardest hiking of all the Whites because of the endless rock-hopping.
 
Good seeing you Earl, it was certainly an amazing day!
I knew you and Isabelle were hiking a S-N traverse and it was just a matter of time before we ran into each other. My expectation was we would meet a little further south.

I'm glad the car reappeared. :rolleyes: Just curious... How many people went to Appalachia and were unable to see it in the parking lot? Fortunately it's a short run from Barnes Field - hardly far enough to work up much of a thirst.

I assume sleep and/or coffee were key elements in locating it. :D
 
Top