RGF1
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- Feb 1, 2005
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I had not really intended to climb Pyramid, I set out at 4 am to see if I could get some sunrise photos of the Maroon Bells from a different place than the classic s places Maroon Lake and Carter Lake. Under a near full moon and fading stars I made my way up the easy and heavily used trail to Crater lake. Happy to have the soon to be well traveled trail to my self with only a few birds ,a mule deer grazing contently I slip past an only to have a pika chip its alarm at my approach. . The sun still below the horizon is beginning to paint the few high wisps of clouds orange, pink and red. Stopping to take a photo and drink some cold water even though it is 40 out I am already warm and thirsty in the dry air at 10,000 ft. The sound of rocks falling from the surrounding peaks It is not this sound that startles me but a friendly good morning from a Colorado 14ers Initiative trail crew member. We talk for a few minutes. I decide to check out their work on Pyramid Peak they have marked out a route to at least 12,000. It is badly needed as so many climbers have made a number of paths up the steep slope and narrow couloir that leads to a hanging basin at about 12,000. . The slope is relentlessly steep approaching 50 degrees with loose sandstone rocks and boulders that somehow stay in place with out any logical means of support. Climbing on this is both tiring and unnerving. Stopping often to catch a breath, drink some water and take photos I do this often. as the scenery is stunning . The Maroon Bells. The Sleeping Sextant and Buckskin Pass make for a unforgettable sight. Snowcapped and towering up to 4,000 ft over Crater Lake. To my surprise I see some one a few hundred feet above me moving fast. The Sun has come up now and I am out of film. A of search my pockets and pack leads to my disappointment I have none. A lesson being shutter happy and forgetting to take extra rolls film.( or buy a digital camera ) . Still being early I put on my helmet and climb up through the Amphitheater and onto the very steep and rotten slope that make up its’ headwall, which is very steep and rocks can be heard falling on opposite side of the ridge and rock towers that make the North East Side of the Amphitheater. A mountain goat bounds up a cleft with ease it's feet designed by nature to stick to the rock helping them avoid predators. Wishing now that I had brought more film. I make my way up the extremely loose and steep headwall to 13,000 ft on the infamous maroon colored sandstone that gives these stunning peaks their unique beauty and the names of the Maroon Bells. This loose rotten rock also makes them among the most dangerous peaks in North America. Percentage wise they have more rescues than almost any other range,
At 13,000 ft the route turns west and southwest up the steep exposed ridge to the summit. Entering the “Green Couloir" the route becomes very steep class 3 climbing still on the treacherous loose rock that make the these peaks so deadly and frightening. I remember a few years ago a couple had a argument near the end of the “Green Couloir” that sounded as if the relationship was coming to a bitter end. I moved on wanting nothing to do with the argument . This time the exposed Class 4 moves is exhilarating, a bit frightening and even rewarding knowing it is not at all easy and many have turned around at this point. From this point on the route are made up of class 4 and 5 pitches. Stopping to rest, take in views and check the weather. At 7:30 the sky is cloudless the thin wisps that made the sun rise colorful are gone hardly a breeze. In the Elks this is rare I cannot resist the summit.
With the sun becoming more intense. Sunscreen goes on all exposed skin becoming sun brunt is easy and fast at 13,300 or so. From this point on the route is exposed class 3 and 4 climbing with 1,000 + ft drops of the if you fall you die or end up in a very badly injured if you live type. Unnerving looking up at the route helps with the exposure. I remember the couple of a few years ago . I cannot imagine bringing a grilfriend up here unless she was comforatble with this kind of climbing certainly not my idea of a romantic day or a way to keep a girl friend by scaring them on a dangerous peak . Conundrum Hot Springs is a much better option. It is in a bueatiful valley to the east .The East Side of Conundrum Creeks Valley High peaks are visible with Cathedral, Conundrum and Castle peaks dominating the eastern skyline almost as if they are battlements of a medieval fortress. The Maroon Bells look almost unclimbable with Bell Cord Couloir splitting these two famous peaks it from my vantage point I think only a insane person would climb that thin string of ice and snopw but yet I have done it . I pause to think about how a different angle makes something look either easier or more difficult. Looking down on some slopes they seem easy yet I know they are tough and steep looking straight at Bell Cord I know it is a 45 – 50 degree slope, Optical illusions?
Reaching the summit takes less time than I thought. The route looks nearly impossible but it draws me up with devious pitchs and a surpisingly easy passgege thought a small cleft a exposed blind connor and a deceptively easy class 4 move here and there . The climber I saw earlier is sitting on top. He says good morning and remarks how amazing the view is. A Hawk soars over the Valley of East Maroon creek looking for a meal. . Happy to arrive and on a cloudless day rare in the Elks when at 8am the storms are already beginning to build up, but not today.! I regret once again not bringing more film. . Time to get a digital camera!
Leaving this spectacular summit is not easy on such a rare day. ! But down I must go at least I know I can get a cold beer and a superb Mexican meal at Margaritas. Down climbing is tough the rocks slip, I almost fall numerous times. Sometimes I am shaking a bit with fear. On this peak fear can be a good thing to have. Not only is it physically tiring but psychologically too you have to be alert all the time one misstep and it is all over. Soon I am at 13,000ft the most exposed climbing behind me just the 3,000ft steep loose slopes a few small snowfields and I am down. Suddenly I slip and my right leg turns I feel a bit of pain shoot up from my knee. But I can stand on it so I keep going. Another slip on the loose gravel and talus, a sharp pain is shooting though my right knee. Damn I think I hope it is nothing much a few Advil and soaking it in the frigid lake should help. The rest of the climb goes fast. the CFI crew is taking a break we talk and I ask about Adopting this incredible peak. . They smile and say your are the first to ask! I look incredulously adopting here is not the same as in the east. One does not have to do any real trail maintenance mostly it is hiking or climbing talking to people about the mountain and hopefully preventing those who do not have the skills to climb these dangerous peaks from trying and learning the skills and suggesting a guide or easier alternatives.
Finaly I am back on the Trail to Crater lake, it is just before 11 am and lots of people are making their way up to the lake. Resting and taking some water . I smile and say hello answer questions usually how far to the lake. Still smilling and amazed at the incredible climb I had. I don’t really feel comfortable telling people where I was, at least not in person. I get asked where “that path goes” I simply say it is being worked on and” I was talking to the crew I know them from hiking here. “
I going down I still have a grin and feel fortunate to have had such day on one of the most dangerous peaks in the lower 48 certainly one of the most if not the most difficult 14er at least that is the opinion of some I am not sure since I have not climbed them all.
Finally I pick up a cold beer and walk down to a stream in Snowmass where I stay in CO the cold water feels good on my sore knees. Some one should invent shock absorbers for hikers and climbers knees. Now it is time for that Mexican meal! I am so hungry I eat two!
Sleep comes easy that night I am content especially not having planed to climb that day.
I hope to have Photos of CO to put on something like Webshots or something better if possible.
I had a great Adventure in the Elks I am going to try and write a bit more as I can.
Note the USFS and CFI have asked that I do not publish or post photos of the beginning of the Climbing routes on Pyramid and the Maroon Bells. So as to keep them as discreet as possible, and possibly prevent a tragedy.
I should have a scanned photo of Pyramid on this later but it scanned on flatbed scanner so it will not look so great.
This is also my frist ever trip report .
At 13,000 ft the route turns west and southwest up the steep exposed ridge to the summit. Entering the “Green Couloir" the route becomes very steep class 3 climbing still on the treacherous loose rock that make the these peaks so deadly and frightening. I remember a few years ago a couple had a argument near the end of the “Green Couloir” that sounded as if the relationship was coming to a bitter end. I moved on wanting nothing to do with the argument . This time the exposed Class 4 moves is exhilarating, a bit frightening and even rewarding knowing it is not at all easy and many have turned around at this point. From this point on the route are made up of class 4 and 5 pitches. Stopping to rest, take in views and check the weather. At 7:30 the sky is cloudless the thin wisps that made the sun rise colorful are gone hardly a breeze. In the Elks this is rare I cannot resist the summit.
With the sun becoming more intense. Sunscreen goes on all exposed skin becoming sun brunt is easy and fast at 13,300 or so. From this point on the route is exposed class 3 and 4 climbing with 1,000 + ft drops of the if you fall you die or end up in a very badly injured if you live type. Unnerving looking up at the route helps with the exposure. I remember the couple of a few years ago . I cannot imagine bringing a grilfriend up here unless she was comforatble with this kind of climbing certainly not my idea of a romantic day or a way to keep a girl friend by scaring them on a dangerous peak . Conundrum Hot Springs is a much better option. It is in a bueatiful valley to the east .The East Side of Conundrum Creeks Valley High peaks are visible with Cathedral, Conundrum and Castle peaks dominating the eastern skyline almost as if they are battlements of a medieval fortress. The Maroon Bells look almost unclimbable with Bell Cord Couloir splitting these two famous peaks it from my vantage point I think only a insane person would climb that thin string of ice and snopw but yet I have done it . I pause to think about how a different angle makes something look either easier or more difficult. Looking down on some slopes they seem easy yet I know they are tough and steep looking straight at Bell Cord I know it is a 45 – 50 degree slope, Optical illusions?
Reaching the summit takes less time than I thought. The route looks nearly impossible but it draws me up with devious pitchs and a surpisingly easy passgege thought a small cleft a exposed blind connor and a deceptively easy class 4 move here and there . The climber I saw earlier is sitting on top. He says good morning and remarks how amazing the view is. A Hawk soars over the Valley of East Maroon creek looking for a meal. . Happy to arrive and on a cloudless day rare in the Elks when at 8am the storms are already beginning to build up, but not today.! I regret once again not bringing more film. . Time to get a digital camera!
Leaving this spectacular summit is not easy on such a rare day. ! But down I must go at least I know I can get a cold beer and a superb Mexican meal at Margaritas. Down climbing is tough the rocks slip, I almost fall numerous times. Sometimes I am shaking a bit with fear. On this peak fear can be a good thing to have. Not only is it physically tiring but psychologically too you have to be alert all the time one misstep and it is all over. Soon I am at 13,000ft the most exposed climbing behind me just the 3,000ft steep loose slopes a few small snowfields and I am down. Suddenly I slip and my right leg turns I feel a bit of pain shoot up from my knee. But I can stand on it so I keep going. Another slip on the loose gravel and talus, a sharp pain is shooting though my right knee. Damn I think I hope it is nothing much a few Advil and soaking it in the frigid lake should help. The rest of the climb goes fast. the CFI crew is taking a break we talk and I ask about Adopting this incredible peak. . They smile and say your are the first to ask! I look incredulously adopting here is not the same as in the east. One does not have to do any real trail maintenance mostly it is hiking or climbing talking to people about the mountain and hopefully preventing those who do not have the skills to climb these dangerous peaks from trying and learning the skills and suggesting a guide or easier alternatives.
Finaly I am back on the Trail to Crater lake, it is just before 11 am and lots of people are making their way up to the lake. Resting and taking some water . I smile and say hello answer questions usually how far to the lake. Still smilling and amazed at the incredible climb I had. I don’t really feel comfortable telling people where I was, at least not in person. I get asked where “that path goes” I simply say it is being worked on and” I was talking to the crew I know them from hiking here. “
I going down I still have a grin and feel fortunate to have had such day on one of the most dangerous peaks in the lower 48 certainly one of the most if not the most difficult 14er at least that is the opinion of some I am not sure since I have not climbed them all.
Finally I pick up a cold beer and walk down to a stream in Snowmass where I stay in CO the cold water feels good on my sore knees. Some one should invent shock absorbers for hikers and climbers knees. Now it is time for that Mexican meal! I am so hungry I eat two!
Sleep comes easy that night I am content especially not having planed to climb that day.
I hope to have Photos of CO to put on something like Webshots or something better if possible.
I had a great Adventure in the Elks I am going to try and write a bit more as I can.
Note the USFS and CFI have asked that I do not publish or post photos of the beginning of the Climbing routes on Pyramid and the Maroon Bells. So as to keep them as discreet as possible, and possibly prevent a tragedy.
I should have a scanned photo of Pyramid on this later but it scanned on flatbed scanner so it will not look so great.
This is also my frist ever trip report .
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