Sugarloaf and Spaulding, 1/15 (Sunday)

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Mohamed Ellozy

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An AMC group was staying in Stratton. On Saturday the Leader (ME) cancelled the official group hike up Saddleback and its Horn (rain forecast all day); all the participants climbed both peaks as an unofficial trip.

On Sunday, in spite of a brutal forecast (cold, winds 25-35 mph) the group trip up Sugarloaf and Spaulding took place as scheduled. We drove to the West Mountain lift parking area; note that there are no road signs pointing to it, we followed the signs to the "Golf Club". From there we hiked up the West Mountain ski trail to Bullwinkles. There we found (on the slopes, not in the hut) a ski patroller, who warned us that conditions were brutal on the summit, and that the trails were icy. Tramper Al, who had skinned up to Bullwinkles, left his skis there.

We then climbed up the TimberlineTrail, which got increasingly icy and windy as we approached the summit. We all had face protection on well before reaching "treeline". I put the word in quotes, since the trees gave us confoundedly little protection :(

We opted not to visit the unheated hut on the summit area, but instead to run up to the summit, bag it, and descend quickly into the trees. The lightest member of our group got blown to the ground, and had to be helped stay on her feet. I, at 200 lbs with pack, had difficulty staying on my feet, though I did not hit the ground.

Thanks to Tramper Al we quickly found the Sugarloaf Spur Trail (which means that he found it :) ). The blazes on the upper part of that trail were yellow instead of blue, causing some confusion. But since it went in the right direction we followed it, and eventually found blue blazes.

I had assumed that the 2.7 miles (each way) from Sugarloaf to Spaulding would be largely sheltered in the trees. Mistake :( ! True, the trail was in the trees almost the entire distance, but the open trees provided essentially no protection from the wind. Not quite as bad as on the summit, but still brutal. Most of the group wisely kept various degrees of face protection on the whole way; I took off my balaclava/facemask combo to prevent fogging of my glasses, and soon felt that my nose was a lump of ice :( The balaclava/facemask came back on fast, and stayed on.

The climb to the summit of Spaulding was, as expected, hard (500 feet) and steep. No views, again as expected. Quickly down to the "shelter" of the trees for a quick lunch.

The way back was uneventful, until we reached the junction of the AT and he Sugarloaf Spur Trail. Then another 500 feet (roughly) of climbing. We layered up fully just before getting out of the trees, and rushed to the shelter of one of the buildings near the towers as one member reclimbed the summit (he was not sure he had tagged the real top of the rockpile). Then we rushed acros the exposed area to the very relative shelter of the trees and the ski trail.

The descent was much easier than I had feared. It was, let us say, breezy, but certainly not as brutal as I had feared. We reached Bullwinkles at around 3:30, just in time for an overpriced hot cocoa before they closed for the day. Most of us took off face protection for the final descent down the West Mountain ski trail, though at least one kept on balaclava, face mask and goggles. We reached the cars, tired but with as many fingers, toes and noses as we started with, before dark. Tramper Al recovered his skis, and skied down to the cars.

All in all one of the hardest trips in my life. I found the most exhausting part to be the constant wind on the ridge. It was obviously not as brutal as on the summit, but was unrelenting.

No sign of any Gatherers on the trail, but with the wind tracks from the previous day would have disappeared.

We all wore snowshoes (all with good crampons) from start to finish. The slopes had a mixture of almost skiable snow and ice, while on the ridge we met everything: deep snow drifts, good snow, all varieties of ice. Nothing steep, which is why our snowshoes did the job well.

About half the group (excluding me) stayed on to do the Crockers on Monday. I was physically and mentally exhausted, and the forecast was, to say the least, uninviting.

Apparently we were not the only mad hikers on the mountain that day, see Frodo's trip report.
 
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Mohamed (and group),

Awesome job! Those conditions were quite brutal, and you guys kicked butt by heading over to Spaulding! We were walking like drunken sailors for the last 100 yards, and 2 out of the 3 of us basically crawled to the summit of Sugarloaf. We got a late start (10:30) and summited around 12:30, but we never saw any trace of your group.

Cool trip report! :)
 
Well, a young friend and I were not far behind you, but took a different route. We had planned to approach Spaulding by bushwaking into the shelter from Caribou Pond. With Saturday's rain then snow falling Sunday AM, we decided not to ask a frined to drive us up Caribou Valley Rd., so we hiked in from West Mountain Rd. Rather than starting at the golf course, we hiked up as high as West Mt. road would take us, then headed for the woods to follow the river up. Bushwacking was slow going, and since the terrain was at a steep angle with plenty of trees to contend with, we put up with post-holing over snowshoes. It took nearly 4 hours to reach the AT JCT. The river was a raging torrent, so we were left with two choices. Either follow the river to its source, the pond, camp there, or hike up the AT to Sugarloaf and spend the night in the summit building. We headed up. Snowshoes helped until we reached the rocky section. Then snowshoes again later to avoid more post holing. After a steep middle section, the trail has a beautiful, gentle section through an evergreen forest well-protected from wind. Higher up there are grand views of the Crockers and the Reddington or Caribou Valley. My friend bare-booted the whole way, but I was sinking in more than I wanted, so shoes worked for me. My pack must have been heavier, right? By the time I reached the Spur trail to the summit, I was dragging, and even though you guys had packed out the trail, I kept my snowshoes on. It had taken 3 hours to do the 2.5 from the river and would take me another 40 to cover the last .5 to the summit. You guys could have at least turned off the fan. Its wind was knocking me over. It was 5:15 dark. The crampons of the shoes helped keep me upright, but what an eery feeling. The pink in the western sky looked like a flashing light as clouds whipped by obscuring it temporaily from view. The ice coated towers were a scene from Star Wars. My friend had turned a light on in the building, so I had something to aim for in the fading natural light. I thought of stories of guys dying only feet away from safety. If I fell while sliding across the ice, I might not be found until morning, a frozen corpse with un-used gear in the pack.
To add to the drama, when I arrived into the building and began the usual fumbling around with camp chores, it suddenly dawned on me that I was alone. The building was empty. Where was my friend? His open pack was there, but he obviously had left to go look for me. The last thing I wanted to do was head back out and look for him. I took my whistle to the door way and blasted as loud as I could. To my relief I saw a light up by the towers and dashed back to my pack to get my light which I beamed out the doorway to join the blasts of my whistle. The whistle was not heard above the roar of the wind, but my friend made it back quickly. He had gone a ways down the trail to look for me. Had he gone out one door as I was headed for the other? How had we missed? More lessons to be learned. Hey, that building is not a bad place to spend a cold night. We pulled a table into a lighted closet for dinner, and got a fire going in the wood stove for the night. Fresh snow had drifted into one of the doorways, so we could melt for water. The building rattled louder than a freight train all night with winds continuing into the morning with gusts to 60mph, closing most of the ski-lifts. I bet it was blowing harder during the night, because the noises told us it had moderated by dawn! Descending the ski slopes would have been dangerous without crampons. (I tried bare-booting up later and fell twice before giving up) Although a gorgeous day, the summit was in and out of white-out with blowing snow. As`lifts were closed we had the groomed, but icy slopes to ourselves for a fun hike down. Spaulding will have to wait for a warmer day!
 
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double yikes!

I would not have been happy trying to walk against that wind in the dark. Is that building always open in the winter?
 
Wow - I couldn't fathom having been up high on Sunday. It was brutal enough down in the valley. Kudos to you all for a safe trip!

Hypothetical question ... does Mohamed worry about getting written up by himself?
:)
 
MichaelJ said:
Hypothetical question ... does Mohamed worry about getting written up by himself? :)
What he really worries about is having his obituary written by the next Accidents editor :(

Frodo said:
... and you guys kicked butt by heading over to Spaulding!
I am sure that Frodo meant this as a compliment but, in retrospect, I question my judgement (as trip leader) in having gone on. My defense is that I thought that the trip to Spaulding and back would be sheltered, so we would be adding distance but not adding exposure. The trip up and down Sugarloaf would have been within everyone's limits, and we all had the strength for the extra distance. In fact, out of our group of eight, only two (I was one of them) were taxed to their absolute limits.

HAMTERO said:
Me no likey when nose feels like ice!
Nose is still very red, but is still in place.
 
Hamtero: I believe to prevent people from breaking in only to find nothing to steal, the building is left unlocked. There is a large bolt on the outside of one door, so one could probably get locked inside! Of interest to hikers, there is a good sized relief map of the area inside a glass display case, ie. the kind of map that actually has the shape of the mountains, a mini model of the mountains within view which includes both Mt. Washington and Katahdin. If the ski lift to the summit is open, the ski patrol will have patrollers in the building. There is a phone there which probably would work with a charge card or will reach Sugarloaf numbers (237-2000 or maybe 1-800-the-loaf). It is a solid structure that provides a safe haven from the elements. It housed the gondolas and a restaruant at one point, so it is a large space (electricity, but no water)

To reach Bulwinkle's in time for drinks on the way down, Mohamed's group made good time, being more than half way down with day-light to spare!
 

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