tax day South Gully climb

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sleeping bear

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NOT tax day South Gully climb

After getting our $7 worth of breakfast, Guy, MEB, and I headed up the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. We were unsure of exactly what we were going to do because everyone was a little tired, it was drizzling pretty good, and there was a lot of fog. We decided to go up, have a look, and then make a call.

Coming our of the trees into the ravine we were met by a nasty wind and were forced into warmer layers. MEB decided she wasn't going to climb as she was tired (her coffee never kicked in), but would see us off if we decided to go. The fog cleared a little and we were able to at least find South Gully, which was a little more promising. Okay, let's go a little closer and then see. Well, a little closer, and the fog lifted a little more. Alright, get your gear together we'll go up the first section and see how it is. MEB bid us goodbye and went back down to find her pack and continue back over to Tuckerman.

Guy lead and we headed up the first section. By now the fog was almost gone and the sun was peeking through the clouds. The snow was soft and the climb was fun. About 40 or 50 feet up Guy punched through the snow to find a gap and running water underneath the snow. He checked around a little more, and decided we were okay to proceed. As we climbed I could hear the water running underneath us, kinda freaky.

A little higher and we could see water pouring over rocks just at the next corner. Guy opted to go check it out, and if it looked bad we'd down-climb. He got up to and yelled down that it was okay, so we proceeded up. Just as he disappeared around the corner the weather began to change. The wind suddenly picked up and thick clouds pushed in. I turned to look into the ravine and watched clouds fill it almost instantly. It was really quite a site. They just rolled over the ravine and poured in. Within two minutes the ravine was full of fog and clouds. Then came the hail. It started as sleet and then became bb sized ice pellets that stung my face everytime I looked to to see where Guy was. After maybe twn minutes it turned to rain, which eventually tapered off.

The next time I looked down I saw two other climbers coming into view out of the fog. They weren't on a rope and were therfore really moving. Just as I came up even with Guy they passed us.

Above the running water we climbed a short steep section which then leveled off. From there we traversed to the other side of a wide snowfield where Guy collected the pickets from me for the last pitch. By now the fog had again lifted and we could see the top.

The last section was a piece of cake and we were soon sitting on the rocks above putting the rope away. Once on the Alpine Garden Trail we decided to descend Right Gully into Tuckerman Ravine instead of taking Lions Head down. Of course the fog rolled in again just as we started looking for the top of the gully. There we met a couple of skiers, told them we would stay to the right and then headed down. The consistency of the snow did not permit us to descend facing forward, so we were forced to down-climb the whole thing. It was actually kind of fun, although it took forever. I kept stopping to watch the skiers, and at one point thought I was going to be run over, which was a little scary. :eek:

Once at the bottom of the ravine we checked for anyone we knew and then headed down to Pinkam.

Thanks Guy, for another awesome climb, I had a blast. Too bad the snow's pretty much done.

pictures


Soooo, someone should write a trip report for the "Tuckerman Ravine Weekend" in general. There was lots of interesting stuff going on (ie. shopping, drinking, skiing, other hiking trips, lots of good food made by Mtn Mama, and dogs confused about their sexuality).
 
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Excellant TR Sleeping Bear... Sounds like an eventful day. Conditions start to get a little hairy this time of year. The sound of running water always makes my blood run a little cold! Loved your photos, especially #3 of Guy leading up South Gully...perfectly framed and gives some real indication of the pitch!

Guy, you sure have gotten your money's worth this winter! Nice job with all the climbing.
 
terri - I had a 50 percent succes rate in huntington this year - 6 trips in 3 topped out - 3 bailed due to weather, conditions. not too bad.

great trip report lindsay, I had a great time too. little sketchy with the hail, but you deal with it as it comes :eek:

Pic #3 is actually right at the start, if you look close, I still have the rope in coils as we were just coming out of the brush, but yea, it does show the angle quite good. After we topped out on that part, we took a right and headed straight up as I ran the rope out. we did a running belay all the way up for increased safety - and practice. south probably runs at about a 45-50 degree pitch, so not too bad.

the ole plunge step wasn't cutting it heading down right gully - too wet and slippy.

The snow is melting pretty quick - not sure how much longer stuff will last up there. Like lindsay mentioned, I punched thru the snow right at the start (and almost turned around) to a 5 foot drop below. :eek: :eek:

quite a bit a skiers out even with the crap weather. - tho wasn't as bad as they predicted.


this and the trip up king ravine friday, partying at barnes at night, made this an all around great weekend. :D :D
 
Glad you two had a great climb! My coffee finally kicked in just as I reached Hermit Lake but it was short lived....had I gotten a few more hours of sleep the night before I think I would have gone with you. Anyway, you sure did have an interesting day weather wise and I'm glad you two made it down safely. Great pictures Lindsay!

-MEB
 
Nice TR. Looking at Tux Ravine... wow, the snow is much less than it was last year.
Giggy, did you guys get to take a look at the ice on Pinnacle? ;) :D
 
Lindsay...thanks for posting the tr & pics (sweet).
It was so nice to meet you,Andy and the pups.
Had a great time with everyone from VFTT.
 
cbcbd said:
Nice TR. Looking at Tux Ravine... wow, the snow is much less than it was last year.
Giggy, did you guys get to take a look at the ice on Pinnacle? ;) :D


hey there - I did not see pinnacle at all, as we just headed up south from the base - Its probably still ok as we speak - but it can't last too much longer, the lower buldges on yale looked rough and the snow is very wet - see above about punching thru the lower party of the gully. I guess sat night they had a freeze up, so things probably got a bit better - I am not an expert in judging ice, so make your own call, but i can't imagine any of them lasting too much longer. what little ice we did have in south was wet butter and real easy to sink your pick into.
 
What Diehards you are! I’m jealous! I figured my trip with you guys up Central on April 2nd was my last ice climb of the season. It’s all yard work for me for the rest of April.
 
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