The Bakers and the Spencers - August 6th & 7th

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Papa Bear

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Part 1: The Bakers - August 6th, 2005

Last weekend I spent a busy Saturday and Sunday doing some peak bagging with Spencer. I am finishing up on my pursuit of the New England Fifty Finest List. I had two peaks left in Maine: The Traveler in Baxter State Park and Baker Mountain in the Moosehead Lake region. I hope to climb The Traveler when I go up to Baxter late this month, so I suggested to Spencer that we do some hiking in the Moosehead area. Since he is pursuing the Maine 3000 footers, and since Baker is one and is close to several others, he agreed. So to get my one peak, I would go with him as he went after his 7 peaks. But he has the truck, so that sounded like a good exchange :).

We went up Friday evening to Greenville, and followed the Greenville-Kokajo Road up to a point where we found a logging road which leads in towards Baker Mountain. Baker is part of a range that includes 3 peaks on one ridge which runs approximately north-south (Baker, Middle Baker and South Baker) and 2 peaks on an adjoining east-west ridge (Lily Bay and West Lily Bay). Our hope was to do all five peaks in a large loop starting with South Baker and circling around to West Lily Bay and then back down to the truck which would be in the valley, right in the middle. Anyway, that was the plan. It was dark by the time we found our road and we followed a moose along the road for a half mile or so until he finally disappeared into the woods. There were signs of lots of ongoing logging activity on this road. Finally we got to our "spot", did a little exploring of other logging roads which might help us in the morning, set up the tent and got to bed. The stars were out bright and clear that night. It looked like it would be a perfect day on Saturday.

We got an early start, had a quick breakfast of bagels and OJ and were off around 6:40 AM. Lucky for us, there were two old logging roads going off from our spot: one (not drivable) went east roughly towards South Baker and the other (drivable for about 1.5 miles) went north, roughly towards West Lily Bay.

We followed the east bound road past a fork to the left and then one to the right until we came to a clear-cut area on our left (north) that seemed to lead to the ridge leading up the west side of our target peak.


South Baker and the old logging road

So we started into the woods at about 7:10 AM. Unfortunately we had to cross a bog before we even got to the clear-cut, and that was slow. Slow as in getting your leg stuck mid-calf in muck and slowly pulling it out. Then when we got to the clear-cut it was still slow going since a huge amount of slash was left on the ground. This bears an uncanny resemblance to a large blow-down field. We though this would be a "short cut" but probably we should have bypassed this entire open area and just gone into the woods further along our road.

We finally got ourselves onto the ridge and headed up the slope, bearing slightly to the left of the gradient so as to get onto the rather broad ridge line. There were some tough spots where there was nothing to do then just push into thick spruce/fir. We both had on long sleeves and long pants, which, while protecting us from scratches, made progress very hot work. Luckily, there were not any significant blowdowns in this area.

Baker, South Peak (elevation 3307'). A bit after 9:00 AM, the slope became gentler and we were on the summit "dome"of the peak. We headed straight up and at 9:20 we were on top. Spencer investigated one high spot and I checked out another and soon I yelled "I've found it". There was a plastic jar which had been nailed to a tree by it's top, so you just unscrewed the jar from the top which was fixed to the tree.

The last register entry was dated 6-20-03 by E Schlimmer. He said he found the old register broken and replaced it, and also mentioned an old paint can (which was still there) which he thought may have been left by a surveyor. There was one other "entry". A business car dated 8-25-00 on the back. So that's two parties made it here in 5 years. Not exactly Grand Central Station! :)

We had taken a bit over two hours (not counting the road walk) and it was one down for the day. We took a break and then started towards Middle Peak around 9:30. We had been told there were animal tracks along this ridge and heading down towards the col we found one. In fact it was so good and seemingly well traveled that you would swear it was a human herd path. But with so few hikers climbing this peak, we discounted that. Perhaps it was surveyors, since there is a town boundary line shown on the map that goes close by and we could see some very old cut stumps and axe blazes. But these signs seemed much older than the path, so we left it as a mystery.

The path soon disappeared and that was the last path we found for the rest of the day. We passed through several areas with standing dead wood as we climbed Middle Peak but the blow downs were not terrible as we skirted these areas. In fact the going was, if anything, less thick in these areas than elsewhere. And these open areas afforded us a good number of views both of the peak in front of us, and of the surrounding area.

Baker, Middle Peak (elevation 3361'). The Middle Peak was a simple dome whose high point seemed to be at the center near a small clearing. We spend 5 or 10 minutes searching the surrounding trees for the canister, to no avail. Finally, Spencer spotted it on the ground in the clearing. We must have stepped right over it 2 or 3 times. The register within was the most complete we would find. It was placed on the peak by Dennis Crispo on June 25, 1988 and had numerous entries with familiar names including Dennis, John Swanson, the Paisleys, Roy Schweiker, Dennis Spurling and the most recent was once again E Schlimmer. Bea Paisley (8-17-90) left her usual poem:

We didn't doodle
We didn't diddle
We came from South Pk
To the Middle


Someone should make a collection of her peak bagging verses.

Spencer attached the canister to a tree and after a lunch break, we got moving. It had taken about an hour and 20 minutes to get from South to Middle, and after our break we were off again at 11:10.

The route to Baker was more complicated, since the ridge line makes a turn to the left (just west of north) at the col. So we set a bearing to the col which we would readjust it once we got there. This was also the longest gap between peaks. The peak itself is complicated: there is a shoulder on the south side (from which we were approaching) that had a bump with about 60' of prominence and which stood about 75' lower than the main peak, about .4 miles away. But because we were approaching this shoulder from below and the bump was closer, it looked like it was about the same height as the main peak behind it.

The going was rougher than before. I think the change in the direction of the ridge line, and the slightly higher altitude led to more blow down areas. We endeavored to work around these, but the heat of the sun together with the long areas of very thick spruce/fir made it very slow going. As we were nearing Baker's South Shoulder, I mentioned to Spencer that "Maybe 3 peaks will be enough for today". He said "OK" and we would decide later on how to get off the mountain.

As we got up to the South Shoulder, we found that it had a narrow rocky cleft across the top, in affect creating 2 minor bumps. The second was a bit higher and was extremely narrow (although not rocky) at it's summit. There was literally room here for only a few trees there (plus us) and the views were great in all directions. We got a good look at the main peak, about .4 miles away, and saw that it consisted of 3 minor bumps. The first (nearest one) is shown on the map but the other two were close together and don't show up on the map.


Baker Mountain with it's 3 bumps

Baker Mountain (elevation 3521'). We dropped off the shoulder and decided to contour around the first bump (which was clearly the lowest) and head for the second. It was not clear which of the two remaining bumps was the highest, but we suspected it was the last one. But we would go over the top of both "just in case". But each bump, whether we go around it or over it, takes time so we pushed on through the thick vegetation. If anything, the tops of the bumps were slightly easier going then the lower ground.

We crossed over the second bump and found nothing and then finally summited the last bump. It was 1:10 PM, 2 hours from the Middle Peak. Spencer found the canister, a glass jar. Alas it was broken and empty. So we got to donate a new canister consisting of a Gatorade bottle. I donated a zip lock bag and some note pages and we made our entry and took a break.

Continued on next note
 
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The Bakers, continued

Continued from previous note

Spencer suggested we simply make a bee-line from the peak due west and pick up the road heading north from the truck (which we had explored last night). This would take us over the flank of Baker's West Shoulder, so we would have to fight the tendency to "fall off" to the left down the steeper gradient. I asked why not go over to the Baker / Lily Bay col and pick up the snow mobile trail that (supposedly) heads down along the side of Lily Bay and joins the same road further on. He said getting to the col would probably take as long as going straight out to our road. I was also thinking that we didn't really know how easy it would be to find the roads down off that col, so the direct bushwhack idea was clearly the way to go. I had thought at one point Spencer may have wanted to do the Lily Bay peaks as I went down, but he seemed willing enough to go down with me and save those peaks for another day. Although we didn't discuss it at the time, the length of the bushwhack to the col and the alleged difficulty of the Lily Bay bushwhack (and the lack of adequate water) would have made that a very tough proposition.

The bushwhack down to the road was the easiest of the whole day. Although it was over 2 miles, the woods were mostly open and the going was quick. my worst complaint was getting my tired feet tangled in the Hobble Bush!. As we got near the bottom, we found ourselves at the north end of a bog with some open water to our left. Luckily we could circle this area to the right (north) since we could not have crossed it. Checking the map showed the area in question and it showed that we did indeed fall off our bearing slightly to the left, but luckily, not enough to matter.

We hit the road just after 4:00 PM. About 9 hours of bushwhacking. Spencer said that we probably wouldn't have made it to the col until 4:00 if we had gone that way, so we (really Spencer) had chosen the optimum route off the mountain.

We walked the mile or so back to the truck. We were both parched and out of water. The only thing we thought about was getting to the truck and getting a drink.

We reached the truck at 4:20. We had been hiking 9 hours and 40 minutes. For me it was the toughest bushwhack to date. Not so much because of very tough spots, although we had plenty of them, but because of the aggregate length of travel and the slow going, especially along the ridge. The hot sun certainly added to that as well.

We got changed, drove to Greenville for dinner, and then drove out to Little Spencer Mountain and found a spot to camp for the night. Tomorrow would be another perfect day!

Baker Mountain, elevation: 3521', prominence: 2129' (#31 on the NEFF list)

Distance on roads: 2.5 miles (approximate)
Distance bushwhacking: 5.5 miles (approximate)
Total distance: 8 miles (approximate)
Elevation gained: 2500' (approximate)
Time: 9:40
Photos: Baker album
 
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Great report and pics!! As usual! Brings back memories, some good and some not so good. I was on the trip with the Paisleys, we did push on to the Lily Bays, and it was bad, we ran out of water, and didn't get down till after 9pm, so you made a wise decision! Oh yeah, the trees were definitely smaller when we did the peaks.
 
Part 2: Little Spencer - August 7th

Saturday night we found a spot off the road about a half mile from the Little Spencer Trailhead. Besides the trail, there is nothing on this logging road except the Spencer Pond Camps. There is a new gate on the road about a mile before the trailhead, but it was open. I don't know who put the gate there or why. Perhaps to "protect" the camps in the off season. The directions and trail description are given in the MMG so I won't belabor these.

The trail was originally laid out by one Dr.Richard A. Manson in the 1960s for the benefit of the clients who stayed at the nearby camp. Since the trail goes up on the steepest side of the mountain, it was no small accomplishment that he found a route that an average hiker could climb at all. It is tough and not a little scary, but non-technical.


Little Spencer - Yes, the trail goes up that face!

The trail rises through a lovely mature pine forest, crosses several rock slides and then passes up through "The Chimney". Having read the trail description and heard from a few others who had climbed it, I was anxious about this. I envisaged a vertical chimney a'la the one in Baxter State Park above Chimney Pond. Not to worry. It's a steep rocky set of ledges between two rock slabs. It's in no way vertical. It is tough but no more so than any number of steep ledges I've climbed. There are 2 spots where there is a slight overhang to get over a ledge. These would be tough, but you could either "bridge" the chimney (which Spencer did) or use the old rope hanging there to help you up. I consider the rope sort of like a root you might grab onto to pull yourself up a steep ledge. Could you fall? Yes. So be careful and you'll be fine.


Spencer scrambling up The Chimney

Above the chimney there were a number of steep ledges and another slide to cross. The views opened up and they were magnificent. Finally the trail wends it's way through some short scrubby spruce/fir and the summit is reached. Although not quite 360 degree views as advertised (maybe 340), it was spectacular.

The peak, the views and the trail were nothing short of stunning! And hey, no bushwhacking. This one is highly recommended, but pick a clear day. You can see forever from up there: Katahdin, Whitecap, Baker, Lily Bay, Big Moose, Kinneo, and lakes. No end to the lakes.

It took us 2 hours to hike the 1.5 miles and 2000' of elevation and 1:15 to get down. A great mountain.

Little Spencer, elevation 3040'

Distance hiked 3.0 miles
Elevation gained: 2000' (approximate)
Time: 3:36
Photos: Little Spencer Album
 
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Great trip reports... I enjoyed them as usual!

See you Monday in Burlington. I hope Spencer wore you out, I'm not sure I'll be able to keep up with you!

Onestep
 
Part 3: Big Spencer - August 7th

We were back at the truck from our Little Spencer climb a little after 10:00 AM. Although Big Spencer is maybe 3 miles away, one must drive about 20 miles down one logging road and up another to reach it. There looked like there might be a short cut, but we soon gave this idea up as we pushed down old logging roads that seemed less and less likely to get us to our destination.

So drive around we did. We got to the Big Spencer trailhead about 11:10 and we were off hiking by 11:20. Spencer and I had climbed Big Spencer last May when there was still snow on the top. But we had failed to climb the second 3000 footer on the mountain, so-called South Big Spencer, about 1.2 miles further along the ridge line from the high point. The trail and directions to Big Spencer are given in MMG so consult that volume for details.


Big Spencer Mountain from Lazy Tom Stream

The climb is in 2 parts: a moderate climb to the old fire warden's cabin (about 1.5 miles) and then another mile up the steep north face of the mountain. There are no chimneys here, but plenty of steep ledges, with 4 or 5 ladders in put place to help the hiker. The trail ends at the old fire tower (which was open!). We reached the tower in 2 hours and 20 minutes and took a break. Although this is the top for most hikers, the actual high point is .2 miles further along the ridge.

We got going, moved past the communications equipment and moved into the woods. Boy, this was not how I remembered it from just 3 months ago. Maybe it was the snow that we had in May, maybe it was today's hot sun, or maybe the fact we just had climbed a tough peak with 2000' of elevation gain that very morning or maybe it was just bad luck. But this was slow, and I mean sloooooow going. A combination of very thick vegetation, blowdowns and very rough terrain with rocks and ledges (some over your head) that seemed to get in the way made it very tough. In May when we did the .2 miles to the high point I wrote "tough slog - slow but easy/moderate bushwhack". Today I would say "slow and very hard bushwhack". It took just over 25 minutes to reach the high point but the work and the hot sun really bushed me. When we got there I said "Spencer, I'm going back - you go on". He said fine, and gave me the truck keys. It was about 1:30 PM and he said he should get back to the truck by 4:30.

Then going back to the tower was if anything, worse. I started out getting disoriented and facing a jagged rock spike I hadn't seen on the way over, I checked my compass and found I was going exactly in the opposite direction! I reoriented my self, and luckily the radio antennae were visible in the distance so I pushed on. I must say this was the hardest .2 miles I have ever done. 40 minutes later I struggled out of the brush near the tower and simple sat, drank and ate, and rested till 3:00. I figured I had plenty of time on Spencer so there was no point in hurrying.

I got going down over the steep section and when I got to the cabin (about 3:40) I rinsed my shirt off in the nearby stream, and took another break. 5 minutes later who should show up, but Spencer. Instead of saying "I did it" or "I didn't do it", he said "Have you got any water?" I had a bit left, so he collapsed on the ground and drank for a minute or two. Then he finally said "Big Spencer kicked my butt today". It turns out he had made it about 2/3 of the way to the South Peak and finally decided he couldn't make the peak and get back. He was hot and tired and was running out of water. So alas, the score was Big Spencer: 2, team VFTT: 1 for the day. He said when he tries it again he will come in from the southwest. The ridge (described a "open" by one peak bagger who did it some years ago) was just too much for us today.

We made it down to the truck in short order, drank to our hearts content and headed back. A hour later we got a bite to eat in Greenville and in 2 more hours we were at Spencer's place in the Bangor area. In spite of what we didn't do, what we did do was fantastic. It had been an extremely productive and enjoyable weekend. And guess what? - now we have to go back!

Big Spencer Mountain, elevation 3206', prominence: 1916'
Distance hiked: 5.0 miles
Distance bushwhacked: .4 miles (me), 2.4 miles (Spencer)
Time: 5:00
Photos: Big Spencer Album
 
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PB, regarding the .2 mi bushwack over to the "true" summit of Big Spencer, my son, who is not interested in bushwacking, commented after about 100 feet in, "you guys are nuts if you like this!" I know the tiredness you felt, because that am he and I had also done the so called Little Spencer.
 
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