The Great Gulf is frickin' awesome! 9/2/11-9/4/11

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Bombadil

Active member
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
322
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Location
Groton, MA
Date of hike: 9/2/11-9/4/11

I was frankly sick of the same old same old hike so this past weekend I opted to venture into the Great Gulf to spend a few days backpacking and exploring a section of the Whites I hadn't visited before. I figured if trails were impassible I'd still have a bottle of wine and plenty of solitude to re-read Thoreau's Walden...

Friday, 9/2/11: Adams and Madison via Great Gulf, Osgood, Osgood Cutoff, Madison Gulf, Star Lake Trail, Airline, Parapet, Osgood
Conveniently I had a work commitment in Whitefield on Friday but got out early and hit the Great Gulf trailhead at noon. I set up camp along the way and made my way up Madison Gulf. As 1happyhiker mentioned in a previous report (http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41777 ), the Great Gulf Trail and Osgood Cutoff are in good shape, with little to no damage.

Madison Gulf was in surprisingly good shape though in the middle section there were a few minor blowdowns and spots with minor trail erosion. Water crossings were a non-issue. Up at Star Lake I got a nice look at the cow moose that's been the talk of the hut. I took Star Lake Trail up Adams in part because I dislike the upper Airline and also so I could check out the less commonly used trail up the summit. I liked it! Arguably better views, certainly easier navigating, and similar time to ascend, Star Lake is alright in my opinion.

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Star Lake Moose

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Star Lake from Adams. The moose is at about 5 o'clock on the edge of the lake.


Continuing in my wave of trying new trails I opted to take the Parapet over to Osgood (no storm-related issues but could use some brushing in the middle section). Still making good time I opted to head up Madison. As I did some clouds rolled in from the south filling up the Great Gulf:

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Someone left the fog machine running down in the Gulf... Washington and Adams from Parapet Trail

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Madison and Adams casting their shadows on the Carters


By the time I made it back down to Osgood junction the clouds were gone and I zipped down into the Gulf for the night.

Saturday, 9/3/11: Washington via Great Gulf/Wamsutta et al
I got a rude wakeup at 6 am when a thunderstorm rolled on through and delayed my hike until 11 am when conditions improved. Naturally the trails were soaked and moving along the Great Gulf Trail I was moving deeper and deeper into fog/clouds whereas early-on I could spin around and see blue skies above Osgood at the other end of the Gulf. Along the way I ran into Chris Dailey (Dailey7779) who informed me that he ventured up the Sphinx Trail and found it impassible due to a slide. That threw a wrench in my plans for the next day as I had hoped to do a Six Husbands/Sphinx loop. As he mentioned in his report (http://www.vftt.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41838), Great Gulf up to Six Husbands was OK.

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I'm guessing one of these is Wetamoe Cascade

Continuing along Great Gulf Trail there were some patches with erosion and a few decent blowdowns blocking the trail. Beyond the Sphinx Jct. there was more water on the trail (one or two spots reminded me of Rocky Branch by the height of land), some blowdowns, but all-in-all the trail was ok--just wet. Having busted my Merrell trail runners on a hike a few weeks prior I had to resort to an older pair of kicks I wasn't too fond of. They made me pay numerous times for neglecting them this Summer, the worst of which was my first fall just below Spaulding Lake on an elevated sidesloping wet rock where I smacked my wrist quite well and thought I broke it. It hurt like hell and was nearly useless for the rest of the hike and though it's a nice shade of purple I doubt it's any more than a bad bone bruise.

Anyways, the Great Gulf headwall is almost entirely rock so there wasn't any soil erosion but there were tons of rocks that were placed quite perilously due to the assumed ridiculous flow that came down there last weekend. About halfway up I came across a pair of hikers that were bailing due to zero visibility and difficulty following the trail. One of the two was a little banged up from a fall as well. I continued ascending the easiest way I could spot in the central part of the headwall, sometimes ascending through the raging brook/cascade and other times going for larger, more stable rocks. I took a pair of tumbles when even larger (~100 pounders?) rocks rolled over backwards when I stepped on them. The guidebook says there's lots of loose rock but that's quite an understatement right now with the way some rocks have been placed with the runoff. Every now and then you'll spot an orange blaze but you can't expect to follow blazes, you just have to follow the central rockfall. I like trails that challenge me and I was pretty stoked in the few places where you grab for handholds on rock in the midst of falling water--neat stuff.

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One of my favorite parts of the trail where you climb up through the running water :)

After topping off my water at the summit I made my way down Nelson Crag Trail to the Wamsutta Trail. The sun came out and made an attempt to dry the trails though Wamsutta is largely in the woods so it was still quite soaked. There was no horrible erosion (some minor areas at the base of the steeps), though there were a number of blowdowns, some smaller ones in the upper section and a bunch in the lower flat section towards the Great Gulf Jct. Also, this trail is in real need of brushing, wilderness area or not you shouldn't have to use two hands to push overgrown branches on both sides of the trail out of the way to pass through. After hitting the Great Gulf trail again I boogied back to camp and stumbled across the jewel of a view from off Osgood Cutoff above Parapet Brook that must be known to many judging by the herd path.

I bailed on my Six Husbands/Sphinx loop plans but hopefully I'll be back there shortly to check it out. Other trail notes: Heard no mention of anyone climbing the Chandler Brook Trail, Sphinx (obviously), Six Husbands, or Buttress Trails. I did run into a bunch of people that came up Washington via standard routes (Jewell, Tuckerman) and didn't report any major hazards.

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View across the Great Gulf towards Jefferson (center) from above Parapet Brook


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Zoomed view of the upper Great Gulf with part of the Clay/Sphinx ridge above

Pat
pcushing21 at yahoo dot com
 
Thanks! I think the wrist will be fine along with all the other cuts and bruises--just the toll for having so much fun on the wild trails. I knew my boots were shot so I had already ordered replacements, I can think of few better trails to be retired upon...

As an aside I was looking back at some photos from previous hikes (mainly from near Jefferson) along with my Garmin map based on old data, trying to correlate what I recall seeing to what my actual route was and what was around me. I noticed shortly before rejoining the Great Gulf Trail on Wamsutta a cut trail veering off to the downhill hiker's left (~west) and noticed there used to be a Great Gulf shelter there according to my old map. I only followed it for a turn or two to see if it was a good campsite but is there still a shelter there or just a clearing??
 
What an awesome weekend!

Great pictures -- I especially like the one of the moose, with the water running down the Great Gulf a close second!

I have only redlined on Parapet, Madison Gulf, and The Buttress. The Great Gulf is a gorgeous area -- happy to hear the trails you chose were open!
 
Great trip report and pics! I need to get out there real soon or all these trip reports are going to drive me crazy.

Especially nice pics of the mountain shadows. I don't see those too often because I'm a weenie when it comes to hiking in the evening :)
 
That is sooo incredibly beautiful! :D
 
Very very awesome!
I think it's time to put down the paddle and put back on the hiking boots.
I've got to get up to the Whites!
 
Nice. It's been a long time since I got back in there -- like, 20+ years -- but the Gulf & the Sphinx used to be among my favorite hikes.

Thanks for posting a conditions report so soon after to big rains. Fair warning, it's going to be hazardous in places like that for quite some time to come. I had been thinking about a Castle Ravine -> Castle Ridge loop for this fall, but I might put that off for a few seasons to give the looser stuff a chance to find its way down first.
 
Holy wow! What an awesome set of hiking adventures! And what a terrific report chock-full of details about trail conditions.

You got some incredible photos! So, it's good to see that your camera didn't suffer any "injuries". However, sorry that you experienced a few painful bruises, bumps and scrapes, but those will heal, and as you said "just the toll for having so much fun . . ."!
 
Wamsutta is heck of a trip. No matter where it is done during your day, its a doozie comin' down.
 
Nice hike.

Let me suggest that you have the wrist checked out--it is not always possible to distinguish a bad sprain from a break without an X-ray.

Anecdote: When I had my accident, it was immediately clear to me that my wrist was sprained or broken. The ER X-ray determined that it was broken... It was put in a strap-on splint and was painless for light use. However, the break was one that might heal properly on its own or the bone might shift before healing. I was told that if it shifted too much, it might result in permanent disability. It shifted, the doc operated to put in a plate (~3 weeks after the accident), and I now have full function of the wrist.

Doug
 
A great route! I hope to one day retrace my footsteps up there again.... Awesome pics!!
 
Nice!

I've been thinking about a trip in there this fall, but after Irene wasn't sure what I'd find. Thanks for the updates on trail conditions. Great photos! I always love how the shadows of the Northern Presis resemble pyramids! Great moose shot!

KDT
 
What an awesome weekend!

Great pictures -- I especially like the one of the moose, with the water running down the Great Gulf a close second!

I have only redlined on Parapet, Madison Gulf, and The Buttress. The Great Gulf is a gorgeous area -- happy to hear the trails you chose were open!
Thanks! It was just the kind of weekend of solo backpacking I was looking for! I hope to get back in there in the near future to check out some of the other trails I didn't get a chance to explore...six husbands is calling my name...

Great trip report and pics! I need to get out there real soon or all these trip reports are going to drive me crazy.

Especially nice pics of the mountain shadows. I don't see those too often because I'm a weenie when it comes to hiking in the evening :)
Cooler temps, no bugs, great fall hiking is just around the corner! Hiking at night is an acquired taste and sometimes you've still gotta be in the right mood for it. Watching the sunset/sunrise from a peak is a real treat!

That is sooo incredibly beautiful! :D
Thanks, glad you like 'em!

Very very awesome!
I think it's time to put down the paddle and put back on the hiking boots.
I've got to get up to the Whites!
September/October in the whites are awesome! Crisp nights, comfortable sunny days...

Nice. It's been a long time since I got back in there -- like, 20+ years -- but the Gulf & the Sphinx used to be among my favorite hikes.

Thanks for posting a conditions report so soon after to big rains. Fair warning, it's going to be hazardous in places like that for quite some time to come. I had been thinking about a Castle Ravine -> Castle Ridge loop for this fall, but I might put that off for a few seasons to give the looser stuff a chance to find its way down first.
Nice, the Gulf is now very high on my list of favorite trails. Castle Ravine/Ridge is another great one. I wonder what it's like on the ravine trail right by the last crossing around where there was an avalanche* a year and a half ago?

Holy wow! What an awesome set of hiking adventures! And what a terrific report chock-full of details about trail conditions.

You got some incredible photos! So, it's good to see that your camera didn't suffer any "injuries". However, sorry that you experienced a few painful bruises, bumps and scrapes, but those will heal, and as you said "just the toll for having so much fun . . ."!
Thanks, it was a blast. I would have stayed for another day or two but I cheated and took a look at the forecast at the summit of Washington and with more rain coming in and already feeling pretty beat up from my falls I figured I'd come back another time. My own fault for heading out on a pair of boots that should be retired or at least only used in combination with microspikes/other traction. Lesson learned!

Wamsutta is heck of a trip. No matter where it is done during your day, its a doozie comin' down.
That's for sure, especially the final sections before it gets back down to the flats. With the rocks wet that's an area where you just toss the poles and hold on tight to whatever you can get your hands on...

Nice hike.

Let me suggest that you have the wrist checked out--it is not always possible to distinguish a bad sprain from a break without an X-ray.
Thanks, upon further consideration I think the worst of it was on the 1st metacarpal. The bruising is going away quickly and the sharp pain only lasted a day or so. It was a solid whack but thankfully it wasn't worse...

A great route! I hope to one day retrace my footsteps up there again.... Awesome pics!!
I agree; I liked it enough to considering heading back again before the ice starts up next month--great place.


I've been thinking about a trip in there this fall, but after Irene wasn't sure what I'd find. Thanks for the updates on trail conditions. Great photos! I always love how the shadows of the Northern Presis resemble pyramids! Great moose shot!

KDT
Sure thing, hope others find it useful. I agree about the pyramid shape, Madison especially--pretty neat!
 
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Awesome pics and report! Sounds like a some rough going out there. The GG is high on my to do list. Hope to get out there this fall.....

good stuff
Petch
 
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