Raven
Well-known member
This is an interesting piece of statistical work on mountaineering in the Himalaya from 1900-2006.
http://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/HimalayaByNbrs.pdf
Some interesting points I pulled out:
-Statistical data is disaggregated to show results when commercial routes are included compared to when not.
-Also shown is data with and without the single catastrophic accident on Kang Guru (6981m) in 2005 that claimed the lives of 18 climbers since this single accident changes the statisitics significantly.
-Dhaulagiri IV is the most dangerous peak for all climbers in the Nepal Himalaya. Out of eleven expeditions (mostly Japanese to Dhaulagiri IV from 1969 to 1975), five ended with fatalities (four deaths by avalanches, three by falls, one by AMS, and six by disappearance of the team on their summit bid). After the Japanese summited Dhaulagiri IV on three successive days in 1975 (the first verified ascents of the peak), the peak has never been attempted again. as of 2006 anyway.
-The most deadly 8000m peaks are Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri I, and Manaslu with death rates significantly higher than the mean death rate of 1.35% for all 8000ers. Everest and Lhotse have death rates significantly lower than the mean.
http://www.himalayandatabase.com/downloads/HimalayaByNbrs.pdf
Some interesting points I pulled out:
-Statistical data is disaggregated to show results when commercial routes are included compared to when not.
-Also shown is data with and without the single catastrophic accident on Kang Guru (6981m) in 2005 that claimed the lives of 18 climbers since this single accident changes the statisitics significantly.
-Dhaulagiri IV is the most dangerous peak for all climbers in the Nepal Himalaya. Out of eleven expeditions (mostly Japanese to Dhaulagiri IV from 1969 to 1975), five ended with fatalities (four deaths by avalanches, three by falls, one by AMS, and six by disappearance of the team on their summit bid). After the Japanese summited Dhaulagiri IV on three successive days in 1975 (the first verified ascents of the peak), the peak has never been attempted again. as of 2006 anyway.
-The most deadly 8000m peaks are Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri I, and Manaslu with death rates significantly higher than the mean death rate of 1.35% for all 8000ers. Everest and Lhotse have death rates significantly lower than the mean.
