The Pemi Loop, and my 48th...

[chinooktrail]

So, a 30 year old, a 40 year old and a 50 year old walk into the woods…

Last Wednesday I walked into the woods with 2 of my best friends, LenDawg and Ranger Rick. Many of you know LenDawg from the site, Ranger Rick is a long time friend and hiking buddy. We had a goal of hiking the Pemi Loop in 4 days, taking our sweet time, enjoying the views and the trails and the company, and being safe and having a LOT of laughs. All of the goals were reached!

A year and some change ago I was looking on the web site, and I saw a post by someone named Sapblatt. He was turning 40 in October, and was half done his 48, and made an announcement that he wanted to finish before his 40th Birthday. I was a few mountains ahead of him, and I had an extra week before I turned 40, so I decided I would try too. Well, he made his goal, and I made a lot of great friends! (Including Sapblatt)

I guess you could say I was on the 10 year plan to finish the ‘list’. But the list in and of itself was never my goal, and still isn’t. My goals with hiking are to get out, enjoy nature, listen to the sounds and smell the smells and see what there is to be seen. Here our journey begins.

Rick, Len and I got a late start, big surprise! But at least it involved a nice big breakfast and lots of coffee. Off to Lincoln Woods we went, where we ripped our packs apart, and decided we needed to bring ALL the food we had. Off into the woods we went, plodding up the trail and having a grand time. I decided I had been stung by the hiking bug, but then looked down and saw that no, it was only a wasp. Ouch. I declined Rick’s kind offer to spread mud all over me to make it feel better…

Before we knew it, we were eating our only fresh food on top of Flume, and basking in the sun. Ah, our first really good look at what was to come, looking over at Bondcliff it looked impossibly far away, almost unattainable, especially looking toward Garfield and around…

Off to Liberty, where we again stopped on the summit, enjoyed phenomenal views, and got our packs off for a moment or two. Down to Liberty Springs Campsite, and the friendly caretaker. We set up camp, got H2O and LenDawg headed back up to Liberty for some R&R. We watched the sun pop away under a georgeous mackerel sky.

A quick meal and off to tent we were. For some reason, I now sleep better in my tent than I do at home. At home I need to leave my light on all night, did I mention I am 40? On the trail, as soon as my head hits I am OUT. I used to stay up all night worrying about axe murderers and bears and moose and rabid squirrels. Now, it is all zzzz’s. Pretty nice really.

Day 2 arrived a little overcast. A yummy breakfast and packing up and onto the trail we were. A quick group stretch once we were back on the trail, and away we went for the Franconia Ridge. More to come…

 

[sapblatt]

Christine -
so glad to read this report - I know how much this meant for you!!
Awesome job!!!
Hiking after the list is even better!

 

[chinooktrail]

Thanks Mike,
It was a great time!
Christine

 

[LenDawg]

Keep er' coming, Tine. Here is a link to the pics:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slideshow.jsp?mode=fromshare&Uc=67t3qkc.7gchft1g&Uy=4r1w4w&Ux=0

Thanks for such a wonderful time, Chinook and RR.

- LenDawg

 

[Little Sister]

Hey Christine
Congratulations!!! Can't wait to read the full report.
Rachel

 

[kmac]

Christine--
Whoo Hoo to you on your 48!!!!
Great pic's Lenny! You guys look like you were having a great time, I'm sorry I coudn't of been there, but I was there in spirit : )
karen

 

[chinooktrail]

Allrigthy, let’s try to get through the rest of this hike. As stated, day 2 dawned early, a little overcast, a little cool, simply perfect for a girl who should have been a Siberian Husky or a Polar Bear. We stretched out on top of the trail junction, downed some sugar, and were on our way. Up and over little haystack, Mt Lincoln and Mt Lafayette. All the while having phenomenal views of Owl’s head and the ridge, and just HOW FAR we were planning on going tonight! We had shorter breaks, and less fresh food, but Rick made some YUMMY cheese roll ups, or BLOW OUTS, as he calls them. For those of you who do not know, Rick is a chef. He is one of the best ‘cooks’ in the Mount Washington Valley. Honestly. He raves about my cooking, but really, he is an amazing chef, listening to him TALK about food makes me salivate! He is a peach, and I am honored to have him as a friend. So much has been written about the Franconia Range, I really have nothing new to offer. Suffice it to say, it is an amazing place, views are phenomenal, the footing is SWEET, and the people you see up there are very, very entertaining. While camping at Liberty Springs, we met 2 groups who were planning on the same trip as we were. A mother and her 3 teenage daughters, and a young couple. On this stretch of the trail we kept bumping into each of them, and offering encouragement, and swapping cameras for photo ops. After Lafayette I opted to forge on ahead of the ‘boys’. I needed a little ‘alone’ time on the trail, thinking they would catch up soon enough. The views continued to be amazing, I kept looking at where I needed to go, but also turning around, and seeing where I had come from. It was a pretty humbling feeling to be out in this forest of trees and granite and wind and weather and to think I had the advantage. But for tonight, I did, Mother Nature took pity on me and allowed me safe passage. The boys caught up and passed me soon enough on the Garfield Ridge Trail headed for Garfield Ridge Campsites. It was a great walk in the woods, enjoying the sites and sounds and smells of the forest. We took a break at Garfield Pond, what a little oasis that is. As we were sitting on the rocks looking at the lily pads we noticed some dragonflies. They were buzzing around enjoying the life of a dragonfly, when WHAM! Along came a bird, thinking he had lunch. The female took off, the male helicoptered down and SPLAT, right into the pond in front of Len. I thought for sure he was a goner, but after a few moments he sputtered, pulled himself to shore, and took off again. Never underestimate nature. As we approached the turnoff for the platforms, it began to rain. Not a soft little sprinkle, I am talking about RAIN! As we turned off the trail to head for the platforms I was thinking, ‘Oh, great, we made it so quick. We are here!’ Foolish me. What kind of sadistic person puts the tent platforms so far away, and UPHILL. I mean REALLY. Was that necessary? I think not. We pulled up into camp, and LenDawg buzzed by the shelter, eager for a platform. Rick and I exchanged glances. That shelter looked mighty warm and dry. After a very brief discussion, we decided to settle into the shelter for the night. What a great choice this was. We were joined by 3 Boy Scouts, a Father and Son team, and a Thru Hiker. (Mountain Goat) Hum, the night in the shelter. Well, lets see, it rained a lot. And we had a lot of laughs. If you understand the expression; “ Oh mom, oh mom, oh.” You were there, or you should have been.
Day #3 dawned with a large question mark. Occasionally we could get a glimpse of blue sky, but it was interspersed with grey clouds and questionable skies. Undaunted, we continued on in our quest, eating a hearty breakfast and heading on our way.

 

[Artex]

Congrats on finishing! Looking forward to reading the rest.

 

[mtnmama]

Congrats Christine on your 48th!
I can't wait to read the rest of your trip report!

 

[chinooktrail]

Undaunted, we continued on in our quest, eating a hearty breakfast and heading on our way. (okay, Lenny and I had oatmeal, Rick ate the last of his soup that even Boots was too full to eat the night before!) We filled up our waters with the filters, from the awesome spring at the bottom of the spur trail. I just love the old moss covered wood water shoots, very scenic. Someday I will break down and buy a camera! Hum, I was thinking that the hike to the platforms was steep, I had forgotten about the hike down the Garfield Ridge Trail… Steep parts mixed in with steeper parts. Large rock scrambles that seem like my little short legs had the disadvantage on. I had a couple of ‘slides of hope’ on this part, where you can’t quite reach the rocks below, so you sort of slide down the rock you happen to be stuck on, and hope you hit something below. Soon enough we had a view of the Galehead hut. I really like to see where I am headed while hiking, it gives you such a feeling of accomplishment once you reach that point. I had a LOT of that on this trip, since we could see Bondcliff from nearly anyplace with a view! Once we got to the hut we dropped our packs and headed in. It was cool out, perfect hiking weather, but put us in the mood for a warmish lunch. We had some soup at the hut, with some of our own snacks, quick look around, and it was onward and upward to South Twin. At some point in this section, Lenny decided to GU up and go on ahead. Rick and I continued at a more mature pace… It felt a bit steep in spots, but overall, I would rather go UP steeps than DOWN. Ah, South Twin, a familiar spot for me, in all kinds of weather. Today it was cool and windy and breathtakingly stunning. The views were phenomenal. We hung out a bit, talked with a few folks, had a Pringle Duck sighting, and then noticed some storm clouds headed our way. I was downright chilly, so I headed on down the trail toward Guyot. We had heard a few tales of Guyot woes on the way. It is my understanding that it is a first come first served system. Seems straightforward enough. It is also apparently a very popular place to go. I don’t understand why if people arrive and decide they would like to avail themselves of the shelter they could be told that ‘sorry, some Girl Scouts are coming in later, the shelter will be full’. Now, I have nothing against the Scouts, be they Boy or Girl, but that just didn’t seem right. This did NOT happen to us, it was just stories we heard, and the caretaker changed before our arrival. It just seems like if the AMC has a stated policy, they should stick to it. Okay, climbing down off my soapbox to finish this tale.
I found this section of the trail to be very interesting. I really like the section where you break out of the trees and you are walking across a slide, below the summit of Guyot. I really love that the trail is just constantly changing, some parts of some trails may remind you of other trails, but for the most part, it is great to keep looking around and see the different ‘zones’ you encounter. (Ok, sometimes I am stuck in the ‘boot heels going up and down 10 feet ahead of me zone’.) For as steep as it was to up to Garfield, it seemed it was as steep to go down to Guyot. We made it down to the Caretaker’s tent, he gave us our options, and we picked a nice secluded platform. The plan was to grab a platform, set up, and run up to West Bond for dinner and sunset. This was MY plan by the way. Once my body got one look at the tent, it had other plans. LenDawg and Ranger Rick grabbed the bare essentials and headed up though, so I enjoyed a leisurely, quiet dinner, lots of time to look over my maps and such, and then a comfortable snooze. The boys made it back safe and sound, and off to tent we were. At this point I would like to make a confession. I have been camping and backpacking for the better part of 30 years. I have camped in HUGE canvas Army tents, tiny little backpack tents, and nearly everything in between. From solo trips to camping with rather large rather loud and somewhat smelly groups, and again, lots of variables in between. I have to say, not only did I sleep better on this trip than ever before, which would not be to tough, but I slept better than at home.
Day 4, the Final Frontier;
The morning arrived earlier than usual, my tent mate didn’t seem to be able to sleep, so we all decided to get up and get moving. Moving was key, since it was chilly. It felt great to be wrapped up from head to toe in fleece, in August no less! Yippee! The weather was looking great, so we broke camp, made some food, and off we went. We stopped and chatted for a spell with the Mom and the 3 teenage girls and another couple on the way out. Very nice family, hope they enjoyed their trip as much as we did, they seemed like they were. My spirits were rising, I was thinking I may finally get this list behind me, and start on some new goals. There were a few sections in this part where there were some large rocks to scramble over. They guys seemed to do ok, but at one spot, well, lets just say ‘whew’. I was a little nervous, so I scooted down onto my butt to slide down, and wouldn’t you know, I got stuck! My water bottles and my Thermarest got snagged in the rock, and I couldn’t go forward, sideways, or back, my butt was balanced on the edge and my feet were in the air. I had a few choice words to say, a look around as I began to slide more, and then a quick roll and grab for a root. Thankfully I got a hold of it, and even more thankfully it held. I lowered myself down onto the rocks below. Lesson learned, scope out the area a little better when your legs are shorter than the others in your group! A quick walk up to the spur trail and it was off with the packs, and a quick walk out to West Bond, #46. Wow. I LOVED this little trail, maybe because I got to fly down it with no pack, or maybe because it is so darned cute. It seemed like there was more down than up, until the last stretch to break out of the trees, then WHAM! You are on the summit! And what a summit it is. Views, wind, rocks and the howling of your hiking buddies! Whoo Hoo, 2 to go.
Back on the trail, and under the pack weight and off we went. It was soon that we emerged onto Bond, #47. I sort of feel bad for Bond, being the ‘middle’ child and all. The views over to Bondcliff just draw you in. Well, that and the fact that it was really blowing and we were getting cold. A few quick photos, and back on the trail we were. Now I have to say, the trail between Bond and West Bond is incredible. Very exposed, views abound, and the little rocks that mark the path always bring prayer flags to my mind. As we were approaching Bondcliff I got a song in my head, ‘2 little feet’ by Greg Brown I believe. I started thinking about my own 2 little feet, and what they have accomplished, or endured, as the case may be. They have seen many a track and trail. They ran all through High School and College. They took me out to Alaska, They walked me down the Aisle. They stood at my dying sister’s bedside. They walked me through my own bout with cancer. They got me back on the trails again. They will be bringing me into a courthouse soon. They allowed me to finish many goals, and they give me hope that joyous times are right around the bend. Your mind can get you through a lot of things, but your feet seem to do all the work!
As we were approaching the summit of Bondcliff we ran into 2 familiar faces, Mt. Drew and Hockeycrew! They had trekked all the way up to join us! Only moments left, and we emerged on the summit! WHOO HOO #48! There was much rejoicing! I was given my very own 4000’ patch, and a yummy whoopee pie monster, which I shared. I walked out on to the edge for the required photo op. Now I have to say, I KNOW I am going back to Bondcliff, because I want to stand on the edge and not feel like I am going to be blown over into the abyss! Wow, that is one impressive ledge. We spent a nice long lunch on the summit, meet up with Stu and a friend, and just generally rejoiced. Soon enough it was time to get going. Sadly I had to leave, but I know in my heart I will be back, and soon. The trail out was fun. Lots of downs, but very manageable. There were a lot of people headed up the trail. We kept plodding on, the boys had visions of beer and pizza in their heads, I was thinking about washing my hair! Onward we went until we landed on the Wilderness trail again. LenDawg, Ranger Rick and I took time to admire and talk about the old railroad that hauled trees out of this area 100 years ago. Soon enough we passed the Osseo Trail turn, and I suggested we just start over, but I had no takers… A few more shots on the suspension bridge and we were parking lot bound. After such a long flat walk, the staircase provided us with entertainment, as it was quite a challenge to get up it! Ah, I made it to the car and my 48 was done. But this is not the end, this is merely the beginning. A jumping off point for more to come. A building block on which to expand. These 2 little feet are raring to keep going, to see where they can lead, to see who will follow, to see what opportunities await. Well, if you made it this far in the story, thank you. This journey has been many things, heartfelt and heartbreaking, I have been roasting, frozen, soaked and parched. I have felt on top of the world, and like I was 6 feet under. Somehow, for me, when I was going through a tough time, the forest just spoke to me, telling me it was going to be alright. Showing me a new joy, a new sight, allowing me to hear a new sound. Well, this hike is over, but the trail goes on and on. My sincere thanks to Rick and Len for joining me on this adventure, it would not have been a fraction of the fun or amazement without you two, thank you both.
Happy Trails!

 

[TDawg]

Congrats, and nice report, you sure picked a great 3 peaks (and overall trip) to finish with.

I think I passed you three on the Garfield Ridge Trail near Galehead on Friday. I was the young guy in all blue that looked like he was in a hurry to go drive to, and hike Waumbek.

Good luck with future endeavors.

 

[David Metsky]

Great running into you up there. Congrats on finishing your 48 in grand fashion.

-dave-

 

[Woody]

Wow, what a great trip report. It was like having different chapters and I couldn't wait to flip ahead and read the next part. Nice pictures too. It looks like the you all had a fantastic time. Congratulations on finishing your 48!

 

[MEB]

Way to Go Christine!!!! I wish I could have been there to celebrate your accomplishment. Well done!

-MEB

 

[bunchberry]

Christine,

Thanks for sharing this fantistic and heartfelt experience with us...what an incredible accomplishment! I too am saving the Bonds for last...just 9 to go now. I still think back to last February's hike on Isolation and I am so grateful for your (and Lenny's!) company as I struggled out late into the evening. I really enjoyed your company, sense of humor, and am glad I got to hike with you on one of your 48!

-katie

 

[LenDawg]

TDawg, I remember seeing you whip by. Good to kinda meet you. David, great to finally meet you on the trail.

Tine, great T/R. I love the "little feet" part. Thanks again for inviting me. SO WHAT'S NEXT???

 

[danno]

Congradulations Christine!! and great TR.

Awesome!!!

I was on the bonds and zealand on friday (8/11), what a great place to finish up your list. The pemi rocks!

 

[Head]

Christine,
Congrats, and nice TR, you picked a fantastic 3 peaks to finish with! Thanks for sharing.

 

[chinooktrail]

Thank you to everyone for your kind words and encouragement! It has been quite a journey, with many twists and turns and switchbacks and turn arounds. I consider this to be just the begining though, with many more adventures to be had!
Thanks again!
Christine

 

[MichaelJ]

Congratulations, Christine, and many more!