Great Pumpkin
Member
"It's Gonna Be a Long Walk Home" (Apologies to the Boss, but accurate nonetheless). The Winter Tour of Redemption had ground inexorably toward a three-way 48 4K finish (say that five times fast) on Bondcliff for Creaky Knees, Spaderman, and your humble correspondent. CK and I were looking to finish the winter list, and Spaderman was aiming at an "all season" completion, not to mention bagging four peaks he needed to bring his winter total to 38. Fredo (CK) did an excellent job of putting together a nine person crew for a two-day southbound Zealand-Bonds traverse consisting of the aforementioned trio, along with: Mad Dog; Roy Boy; Andy; Roger; Beth (aka Damselfly) and Steve Z. He also gets major props for doing the Hut reservation, and arranging for a supply of beyond-fabulous chow which we were happy to haul to Z-Hut, to assure that no one would go hungry on this expedition.
Everyone met up at Lincoln Woods on Saturday 3/7 at about 11:00 a.m., with introductions all around for those who hadn't hiked together previously. Then we piled into two vehicles for the loop up through the Notch, and over to Twin Mountain and Zealand Road. Booted up and geared up in the very close-to-full Zealand Road parking area, then hoofed across Rte. 302, and started the roadwalk a little after noon. Took a couple of goofy pictures near the warning sign on the bridge re. the aggressive bull moose in the area of Zealand Pond ("Hey Rocky, watch me knock a hiker off the trail....), then onward down the road. The group split at the Hale Brook Trailhead to enable some folks to nab Hale on the way into the Hut (as well as a bushwhack for Beth & Steve to grab S. Hale for NH 100 Highest). Spaderman, Roger and moi opted for the easier and shorter route to Z-Hut.
We met a few skinny-skiers along the Zealand Road, as well as a large (13 members?) crew who had stayed at Z Hut on Friday night. Chatted for a bit, and they reported that a group with "large snowshoes, 30" or more" had headed up Zeacliff that morning, southbound for the Bonds and LW. This was in all likelihood Big Earl's group, and it was happy news to us indeed!! We continued along the Zealand Trail, catching up with a smaller group of skiers at a washed out stream crossing just before entering the "Moose Zone" near the Z-Bridge. Bullwinkle probably needs to consult with a gastromooseologist; he left a lot of "calling cards" along the trail in the area of the Pond and all the way up to the Twinway intersection. Maybe it was something the poor guy ate.....
In any event, we made the final quick but somewhat steep climb to the Hut, and were in the door at 3:45 p.m. to settle in, and await our companions coming down the Lend A Hand trail. They arrived shortly after 5:00 p.m., and reported on the snow tower that a gentleman had constructed at the top of Hale to greatly improve the view - a nice piece of work! Also spoke with a few members of Ed Hawkins' crew who were on their way out to Rte. 302 on a northbound traverse; we are not worthy, we are not worthy, but we were very grateful for their efforts.
Dinner was Turkey Tips a la Fredo, on rice, with excellent bread and fine libations shared by all. Some post-dinner cribbage games served as entertainment, and everyone was hitting the bunks by around 9:00 p.m. A somewhat restless night followed, with the sound of precipitation during the night.
We woke to some mixed snizzle, but the Obs forecast was for clearing skies later in the day, with diminishing winds, so we were "go" for traversing, leaving the Hut a bit before 8:00 a.m. EDT ("spring ahead"). Unfortunately, Roger was done in by twin equipment glitches with snowshoe and boot, and had to head back out the Zealand Tr. We made several clothing and snowshoe adjustments on the way up to Zeacliff, reaching same in about an hour. The "view" at this point would have been non-existent, so we pressed on toward the next major landmark, Zealand. I fell back a bit on this stretch, since I didn't need either Zealand or West Bond for my winter list, or for the Grid that I'm not working on
There were some brief hints of sunshine, but the clouds remained predominant, with mostly moderate winds at this point.
I leapfrogged the Zealand summiteers, and proceeded toward Guyot, but was quickly overtaken (no surprise). Everyone stopped in the area of the sharp L turn in the trail just before you emerge from the scrub to cross Guyot's windy plateau. We layered up and put on the goggles before tackling this open stretch, which would be a harbinger of stronger winds to come. Everyone stuck together, as visibility was poor, and we came quickly upon the sign for the Bondcliff Trail. We went to our left to access the scrubeenie that takes you down toward the Guyot campsite. It did not appear that there were any recent tracks toward the campsite, nor any use of the overflow campsites located a short distance up the trail. Once we were in the sheltering scrub, it was agreed that the group would press ahead to W. Bond, and Roy graciously decided that he'd hang back with me (much appreciated).
Roy and I passed the W. Bond Spur at about noon time, where the others had left their heavy bags. We wrote the time in the snow, and pressed on toward the summit of Bond, reaching same before 12:30 p.m. Spent a few minutes searching for the "exit" from Bond toward Bondcliff, then had some lunch/snacks while waiting for the others. We actually went back up to the summit to show them the descent route, and by the time we were rolling down Bond, lo and behold, the behemoth of Bondcliff was beginning to show itself - an awesome sight.
As we began to make our way across the wind-ravaged col, the group got spread out more, as Spaderman and I brought up the rear. We also got knocked on our rears several times, with me fracturing a trekking pole in one of those falls. No matter how you tried to brace for it, the wind was the master. You could hear, feel, and almost see the wind blasting between Bondcliff and W. Bond, and it was funnelled directly at us. We estimated the wind at about 75 mph; it was without a doubt the strongest winds I've ever experienced. We were not in a happy place at that moment.
Beth and Steve made the key move of the day, leading a 'whack off trail along the east/southeast side of the summit cone, just to get into the lee of the wind for a few minutes. This plan worked very well, and we were ultimately able to regain the regular path, and to emerge on the large, mostly flat plateau of Bondcliff at about 2:30 p.m., after an arduous struggle. But ah, the reward: diminished wind, blue skies, spectacular views in all directions, and the exchange of mutual congratulations on completing the 48 in winter for Fred and I, with all-season honors to Spaderman! What a feeling - the Winter Tour of Redemption had at last hit the high note!
After handshakes, many pictures, and lots of smiles, we began the long march home at about 2:45 p.m. Beth and Steve easily outpaced the rest of us in order to go for the remaining car at Zealand. Fred, Spades and I were the last men out at Lincoln Woods just before 8:00 p.m. as a full moon rose over the Pemi. We did 17.3 miles in 12 hours, and I was toast.
There was a certain serendipity for me in finishing on Bondcliff. I was a skinny 15 year old Boy Scout when I first climbed it in August 1967, and was awestruck to be in such a remote place, and above tree line for such an extended stretch. I would revisit this "sacred place" many times over the ensuing years, but not in winter, until Sunday. Bondcliff is No. 30 in terms of its height on the 4K list, and it was almost 30 years ago that I climbed my first winter peaks, the Tripyramids. I went 21 years without climbing a 4Ker in winter, taking up the quest again in March 2001, when we did Adams. Those 21 years not spent winter hiking were filled with a wonderful wife, and two fine sons, both of whom have accompanied me on many hiking, biking, and skiing trips. I have been blessed with great hiking companions during this quest, with Spaderman and Creaky Knees first and foremost among them. I am very grateful for their help on so many occasions, and was immensely pleased that we were able to pull together for a fitting finale this past weekend. Of course, I'll be happy to accompany Spades to get his remaining 10 winter peaks next season and who knows what might happen in terms of chasing the NE 4K's. I don't think you're ever "finished" hiking - after all, it's just a long walk home.
Everyone met up at Lincoln Woods on Saturday 3/7 at about 11:00 a.m., with introductions all around for those who hadn't hiked together previously. Then we piled into two vehicles for the loop up through the Notch, and over to Twin Mountain and Zealand Road. Booted up and geared up in the very close-to-full Zealand Road parking area, then hoofed across Rte. 302, and started the roadwalk a little after noon. Took a couple of goofy pictures near the warning sign on the bridge re. the aggressive bull moose in the area of Zealand Pond ("Hey Rocky, watch me knock a hiker off the trail....), then onward down the road. The group split at the Hale Brook Trailhead to enable some folks to nab Hale on the way into the Hut (as well as a bushwhack for Beth & Steve to grab S. Hale for NH 100 Highest). Spaderman, Roger and moi opted for the easier and shorter route to Z-Hut.
We met a few skinny-skiers along the Zealand Road, as well as a large (13 members?) crew who had stayed at Z Hut on Friday night. Chatted for a bit, and they reported that a group with "large snowshoes, 30" or more" had headed up Zeacliff that morning, southbound for the Bonds and LW. This was in all likelihood Big Earl's group, and it was happy news to us indeed!! We continued along the Zealand Trail, catching up with a smaller group of skiers at a washed out stream crossing just before entering the "Moose Zone" near the Z-Bridge. Bullwinkle probably needs to consult with a gastromooseologist; he left a lot of "calling cards" along the trail in the area of the Pond and all the way up to the Twinway intersection. Maybe it was something the poor guy ate.....
In any event, we made the final quick but somewhat steep climb to the Hut, and were in the door at 3:45 p.m. to settle in, and await our companions coming down the Lend A Hand trail. They arrived shortly after 5:00 p.m., and reported on the snow tower that a gentleman had constructed at the top of Hale to greatly improve the view - a nice piece of work! Also spoke with a few members of Ed Hawkins' crew who were on their way out to Rte. 302 on a northbound traverse; we are not worthy, we are not worthy, but we were very grateful for their efforts.
Dinner was Turkey Tips a la Fredo, on rice, with excellent bread and fine libations shared by all. Some post-dinner cribbage games served as entertainment, and everyone was hitting the bunks by around 9:00 p.m. A somewhat restless night followed, with the sound of precipitation during the night.
We woke to some mixed snizzle, but the Obs forecast was for clearing skies later in the day, with diminishing winds, so we were "go" for traversing, leaving the Hut a bit before 8:00 a.m. EDT ("spring ahead"). Unfortunately, Roger was done in by twin equipment glitches with snowshoe and boot, and had to head back out the Zealand Tr. We made several clothing and snowshoe adjustments on the way up to Zeacliff, reaching same in about an hour. The "view" at this point would have been non-existent, so we pressed on toward the next major landmark, Zealand. I fell back a bit on this stretch, since I didn't need either Zealand or West Bond for my winter list, or for the Grid that I'm not working on
There were some brief hints of sunshine, but the clouds remained predominant, with mostly moderate winds at this point.I leapfrogged the Zealand summiteers, and proceeded toward Guyot, but was quickly overtaken (no surprise). Everyone stopped in the area of the sharp L turn in the trail just before you emerge from the scrub to cross Guyot's windy plateau. We layered up and put on the goggles before tackling this open stretch, which would be a harbinger of stronger winds to come. Everyone stuck together, as visibility was poor, and we came quickly upon the sign for the Bondcliff Trail. We went to our left to access the scrubeenie that takes you down toward the Guyot campsite. It did not appear that there were any recent tracks toward the campsite, nor any use of the overflow campsites located a short distance up the trail. Once we were in the sheltering scrub, it was agreed that the group would press ahead to W. Bond, and Roy graciously decided that he'd hang back with me (much appreciated).
Roy and I passed the W. Bond Spur at about noon time, where the others had left their heavy bags. We wrote the time in the snow, and pressed on toward the summit of Bond, reaching same before 12:30 p.m. Spent a few minutes searching for the "exit" from Bond toward Bondcliff, then had some lunch/snacks while waiting for the others. We actually went back up to the summit to show them the descent route, and by the time we were rolling down Bond, lo and behold, the behemoth of Bondcliff was beginning to show itself - an awesome sight.
As we began to make our way across the wind-ravaged col, the group got spread out more, as Spaderman and I brought up the rear. We also got knocked on our rears several times, with me fracturing a trekking pole in one of those falls. No matter how you tried to brace for it, the wind was the master. You could hear, feel, and almost see the wind blasting between Bondcliff and W. Bond, and it was funnelled directly at us. We estimated the wind at about 75 mph; it was without a doubt the strongest winds I've ever experienced. We were not in a happy place at that moment.
Beth and Steve made the key move of the day, leading a 'whack off trail along the east/southeast side of the summit cone, just to get into the lee of the wind for a few minutes. This plan worked very well, and we were ultimately able to regain the regular path, and to emerge on the large, mostly flat plateau of Bondcliff at about 2:30 p.m., after an arduous struggle. But ah, the reward: diminished wind, blue skies, spectacular views in all directions, and the exchange of mutual congratulations on completing the 48 in winter for Fred and I, with all-season honors to Spaderman! What a feeling - the Winter Tour of Redemption had at last hit the high note!
After handshakes, many pictures, and lots of smiles, we began the long march home at about 2:45 p.m. Beth and Steve easily outpaced the rest of us in order to go for the remaining car at Zealand. Fred, Spades and I were the last men out at Lincoln Woods just before 8:00 p.m. as a full moon rose over the Pemi. We did 17.3 miles in 12 hours, and I was toast.
There was a certain serendipity for me in finishing on Bondcliff. I was a skinny 15 year old Boy Scout when I first climbed it in August 1967, and was awestruck to be in such a remote place, and above tree line for such an extended stretch. I would revisit this "sacred place" many times over the ensuing years, but not in winter, until Sunday. Bondcliff is No. 30 in terms of its height on the 4K list, and it was almost 30 years ago that I climbed my first winter peaks, the Tripyramids. I went 21 years without climbing a 4Ker in winter, taking up the quest again in March 2001, when we did Adams. Those 21 years not spent winter hiking were filled with a wonderful wife, and two fine sons, both of whom have accompanied me on many hiking, biking, and skiing trips. I have been blessed with great hiking companions during this quest, with Spaderman and Creaky Knees first and foremost among them. I am very grateful for their help on so many occasions, and was immensely pleased that we were able to pull together for a fitting finale this past weekend. Of course, I'll be happy to accompany Spades to get his remaining 10 winter peaks next season
and who knows what might happen in terms of chasing the NE 4K's. I don't think you're ever "finished" hiking - after all, it's just a long walk home.
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