Stan
Well-known member
On our road trip last summer we swung south from Montana and the Wyoming national parks to the hot, desolate and rugged raw scenery of southern Utah and Northern Arizona. In local travel promotion the three parks clustered in that area are known as the three musketeers. In addition to these three parks, three other noteworthy areas are described below.
A note about travel and hiking in this area. The lower elevations are desert like conditions which routinely have summer daytime temperatures well in excess of 100º F. Treeline is reversed from our temperate climate, trees start to grow at higher elevations where temperatures and moisture are more conducive. From mid-July to mid-September thunderstorms are very common and dry river beds can flash flood without warning because of a storm upstream. Some trails through narrows are even closed during this period. It is all a very striking and beautiful country that makes me wonder that anything can survive. Primitive peoples were nomadic; Mormon pioneers mastered irrigation. Somehow this desolate land, still some of the most remote and undeveloped in the lower 48, sustains those with the fortitude and industry to work it.
Cedar Breaks National Monument
I planned our ride through Cedar Breaks as a scenic shortcut to the east entrance to Zion. I underestimated the magnificence of the place. The predominant tree here is juniper, related to but not cedar as we know it, and it is so dense that its fragrance permeates the air similar to the balsam fir of the North Maine Woods … but instead a strong whiff of gin! A 1600 year old living Bristlecone Pine tree is but a mile from a trailhead. There are only two alpine trails in the monument and the scenic drive through is closed during the winter but is a popular cross country ski route.
View attachment 3140
Zion Canyon National Park
The east entrance was our entrance of choice for this approach offers spectacular views of the canyon before you. We arrived in time for a short hike to Canyon Overlook. The road within the canyon is closed to vehicles except for guests of the Lodge who can drive as far as the Lodge. The shuttle bus service is frequent and reliable, making interesting end to end hikes feasible. We were greeted at the Lodge by a mule deer and fawn who shared a toast and went on their way.
The signature hike in the Park is Angels Landing. It is only five miles round trip but not a trivial event. The first two miles gain 1000’ elevation including a ¼ mile stretch, Walter’s Wiggle, with 23 switchbacks. By starting early in the morning the trail is shaded by the sandstone canyon wall. Much of this stretch is paved, thankfully, because otherwise the trail would be as loose as a sandy beach. The last ½ mile is the interesting stretch where many hikers turn back. This is a knife edge rising 500’ to the top of the landing. I’d describe it as a cross between Katahdin’s Knife Edge and the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. It does, however, have chains for security in a few spots. The temperature on top was 110º. I’d describe the view as 720º, 360º horizontally and 360º … well, let me put it this way … if you bend over far enough and look down you can see your hind side!
View attachment 3141
The Virgin River runs through Zion Canyon and therein lies another classic hike, The Narrows. This is a 2,000’ canyon wall, as narrow as 18’ in places in which you hike along the river, in the river (ankle to thigh deep), on sandbars and anywhere you can. The hike can be 4-10 miles depending on how far you want to go. There are also overnight hike options. Flash flood dangers are high from mid-July to mid-September and it is sometimes closed during that period.
50 miles from Las Vegas
It was 119º when I left Las Vegas, 50 miles and 4500’ later it was 40º cooler. To the west and northwest of Las Vegas is a series of public lands; Humboldt Toiyabe National Forest, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Spring Mountains National Recreation Area, Charleston Wilderness, La Madre Wilderness, Rainbow Mountain Wilderness and Desert National Wildlife Refuge. No shortage of motivation to get outta town. Charleston Peak would seem the ultimate destination but there are numerous hikes of various lengths and difficulties and various rewards from canyons, to vistas, to falls. Lot’s of camping opportunities here, too. I was merely scouting it out before heading back to the city that never sleeps.
Grand Canyon National Park North Rim
The South Rim is the more “popular” destination in Grand Canyon, reason enough to go north in my opinion. We chose it because the South Rim would have added a few hundred miles to our journey north from Las Vegas. Another major factor in the heat of summer included the fact that, at 1000’ higher elevation, it is cooler and the vegetation is more lush here. There are more hiking options at the South Rim but if you’re only visiting for a few days, there is plenty to keep you busy. As in any of the national parks, if you wish to stay at the facilities within the park, especially historic old lodges, book early.
We arrived late in the evening after passing through forests of Ponderosa Pine, the bark and pitch of which emits a fragrance tinged with vanilla. At dawn I hiked the ¼ mile out to Bright Angel Point where, to the east, was a spectacular sunrise, to the west, ugly dark clouds with laser like chains of lightning and, straight down 5,000’, the Canyon.
View attachment 3142
View attachment 3143
Later, we drove the scenic road to Cape Royal. Along the way are several nature walks and short hikes, the sum of which is a lot of hiking. At the Cape is a trail to a “Wedding Site” above a 5,000’ drop, for a change of heart I suppose!
We hiked Uncle Jim Loop Trail. Three different resources gave three different mileages (around 4-5) but all were unanimous in describing it as a “moderately easy trail” with terrific views down into the canyon and most notably, a view of the upper portion of the Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Canyon, the route for a rim to rim Grand Canyon hike, a 28 mile backpack of typically two to four days. This is the signature hike for this Park and it is so popular that obtaining permits and spots at the camps along the way can be difficult in the best hiking seasons, even months and years in advance.
(continued in part II)
A note about travel and hiking in this area. The lower elevations are desert like conditions which routinely have summer daytime temperatures well in excess of 100º F. Treeline is reversed from our temperate climate, trees start to grow at higher elevations where temperatures and moisture are more conducive. From mid-July to mid-September thunderstorms are very common and dry river beds can flash flood without warning because of a storm upstream. Some trails through narrows are even closed during this period. It is all a very striking and beautiful country that makes me wonder that anything can survive. Primitive peoples were nomadic; Mormon pioneers mastered irrigation. Somehow this desolate land, still some of the most remote and undeveloped in the lower 48, sustains those with the fortitude and industry to work it.
Cedar Breaks National Monument
I planned our ride through Cedar Breaks as a scenic shortcut to the east entrance to Zion. I underestimated the magnificence of the place. The predominant tree here is juniper, related to but not cedar as we know it, and it is so dense that its fragrance permeates the air similar to the balsam fir of the North Maine Woods … but instead a strong whiff of gin! A 1600 year old living Bristlecone Pine tree is but a mile from a trailhead. There are only two alpine trails in the monument and the scenic drive through is closed during the winter but is a popular cross country ski route.
View attachment 3140
Zion Canyon National Park
The east entrance was our entrance of choice for this approach offers spectacular views of the canyon before you. We arrived in time for a short hike to Canyon Overlook. The road within the canyon is closed to vehicles except for guests of the Lodge who can drive as far as the Lodge. The shuttle bus service is frequent and reliable, making interesting end to end hikes feasible. We were greeted at the Lodge by a mule deer and fawn who shared a toast and went on their way.
The signature hike in the Park is Angels Landing. It is only five miles round trip but not a trivial event. The first two miles gain 1000’ elevation including a ¼ mile stretch, Walter’s Wiggle, with 23 switchbacks. By starting early in the morning the trail is shaded by the sandstone canyon wall. Much of this stretch is paved, thankfully, because otherwise the trail would be as loose as a sandy beach. The last ½ mile is the interesting stretch where many hikers turn back. This is a knife edge rising 500’ to the top of the landing. I’d describe it as a cross between Katahdin’s Knife Edge and the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. It does, however, have chains for security in a few spots. The temperature on top was 110º. I’d describe the view as 720º, 360º horizontally and 360º … well, let me put it this way … if you bend over far enough and look down you can see your hind side!
View attachment 3141
The Virgin River runs through Zion Canyon and therein lies another classic hike, The Narrows. This is a 2,000’ canyon wall, as narrow as 18’ in places in which you hike along the river, in the river (ankle to thigh deep), on sandbars and anywhere you can. The hike can be 4-10 miles depending on how far you want to go. There are also overnight hike options. Flash flood dangers are high from mid-July to mid-September and it is sometimes closed during that period.
50 miles from Las Vegas
It was 119º when I left Las Vegas, 50 miles and 4500’ later it was 40º cooler. To the west and northwest of Las Vegas is a series of public lands; Humboldt Toiyabe National Forest, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Spring Mountains National Recreation Area, Charleston Wilderness, La Madre Wilderness, Rainbow Mountain Wilderness and Desert National Wildlife Refuge. No shortage of motivation to get outta town. Charleston Peak would seem the ultimate destination but there are numerous hikes of various lengths and difficulties and various rewards from canyons, to vistas, to falls. Lot’s of camping opportunities here, too. I was merely scouting it out before heading back to the city that never sleeps.
Grand Canyon National Park North Rim
The South Rim is the more “popular” destination in Grand Canyon, reason enough to go north in my opinion. We chose it because the South Rim would have added a few hundred miles to our journey north from Las Vegas. Another major factor in the heat of summer included the fact that, at 1000’ higher elevation, it is cooler and the vegetation is more lush here. There are more hiking options at the South Rim but if you’re only visiting for a few days, there is plenty to keep you busy. As in any of the national parks, if you wish to stay at the facilities within the park, especially historic old lodges, book early.
We arrived late in the evening after passing through forests of Ponderosa Pine, the bark and pitch of which emits a fragrance tinged with vanilla. At dawn I hiked the ¼ mile out to Bright Angel Point where, to the east, was a spectacular sunrise, to the west, ugly dark clouds with laser like chains of lightning and, straight down 5,000’, the Canyon.
View attachment 3142
View attachment 3143
Later, we drove the scenic road to Cape Royal. Along the way are several nature walks and short hikes, the sum of which is a lot of hiking. At the Cape is a trail to a “Wedding Site” above a 5,000’ drop, for a change of heart I suppose!
We hiked Uncle Jim Loop Trail. Three different resources gave three different mileages (around 4-5) but all were unanimous in describing it as a “moderately easy trail” with terrific views down into the canyon and most notably, a view of the upper portion of the Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Canyon, the route for a rim to rim Grand Canyon hike, a 28 mile backpack of typically two to four days. This is the signature hike for this Park and it is so popular that obtaining permits and spots at the camps along the way can be difficult in the best hiking seasons, even months and years in advance.
(continued in part II)
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