time sensitive winter climb of katahdin

[john_hilgeman]

hey all,

is anyone interested in climbing katahdin this winter? I plan on doing it but, due to my job, can not spend a week doing it. I have done some research and have a plan that would allow us to get in, climb, and get out in 24 hours - thats two days committed to climbing and 2 days for travel (I will be coming from NY).

the plan is as follows:
6am or earlier day 1: hire one of the many companies out of millinocket to snowmobile climbers and sleds into katahdin streams campground ($200 per climber, round trip). Immediatly begin the ridge climb up the AT to Baxter Peak, back down the other side to chimney pond. camp.
6am or later day 2: hike out to roaring brook where we meet our return trip by snowmobile, unless anyone wants to carry skis up and over, I'm game.

As for weather, we would have to set up rain dates as the attempt won't be worth it if a storm is blowing in. If anyone is interested, just respond here and lets set something up! the more the merrier, but remember, there is no turning around if you get tired - we finish on the other side of the mountain. Emergency plans will be made once we have a group.

 

[sli74]

Sounds like a great plan and a lot of fun. Baxter in winter is really a special place. Just as a side note, FYI, if you are working on the "winter list" according to the 4000-footer rules, you cannot snowmobile in . . . you have to hike or ski but if the list doesn't matter to you then your plan will work very well with weather being the only variable.

Enjoy your trip, should be a blast.

sli74

 

[SherpaKroto]

A few issues with your plans that you should definitely consider:
1) The Hunt (AT) trail is not one of the "standard" winter routes up Katahdin, so the route will likely not be broken out, and going will be slow with a full pack.
2) A winter traverse involves little in the way of bail-out routes. If you have to turn around, you'll need to have a way to get in contact with your snowmobile company in order to get you out on time.
3) You mentioned sleds. I would NOT want to take a sled up and over Katahdin. On the other hand, I'd also not want to carry all the required winter gear all that distance in and out without a sled.
4) Rain dates are tough to set up in winter as all trips need to be approved and permits secured before you can head into the campground. No outfitter will illegally take you into the Park: it is their livelihood. You will definitely see Park Rangers, and I am always happy to know that they are there watching my back.

IMHO, for a time sensitive trip, you siginificantly increase your chances by heading up Abol Slide (one of the standard winter routes), and returning the same route. For me, I'd be hard pressed to do it in less than 3 days (one in, one to climb, one out), but YMMV. In any event, a winter climb of Katahdin is one of the most memorable trips I've ever had. Of course, 38F on the summit under blue skies didn't hurt either Good Luck!

 

[Chip]

John, I sent you a PM of what I'm planning, I hope it helps.

 

[spencer]

Telling them you are in a hurry is a sure-fire way to get them to deny you.

Though I haven't done it, I suspect the AT route would be potentially the riskiest winter route (save for technical routes) b/c of the length of exposure and time required to get back down.

if you are in a hurry, wait. find a time when you aren't in a hurry.

only ranger snowmobiles are allowed to Roaring Brook. You'll have to hike/ski out to Togue Pond.

I dare say it would be worse than miserable to take pulks up Katahdin via Hunt and down to Chimney Pond.

spencer

 

[john_hilgeman]

Wow... let me start by saying thanks for all the advice.

sherpa - i am aware of the trailbreaking work that will come with the AT ascent. The sleds are for the snowmobiles alone - i plan to carry a pack up and over. I would consider the Abol slide if not for avalance danger - what do you think? The AT ascends a ridge for the most part. Also, I realize that there are many safety issues which I have every intent of adressing once I get a group together. The snowmobiles would remain in radio contact in the case of turnarounds.

kevin - i have been in contact with the rangers and am discussing any plans with them. I do not have a "take no prisoners approach" as I stated the emergency plans would be discussed amongst the party on the trip after I made some contacts. Sorry if I came across this way.

Spencer - I spoke to a guide in the area who has brought customers in to roaring brook - thanks for the info - ill check with the rangers.

anyone interested or am I barking up the wrong tree?

 

[lx93]

Katahdin b4 Winter Closure?

I'm interested in doing Katahdin, but only on Oct. 3-5. I have off from 7:30pm Sunday, Oct. 2, and need to be back in Boston by 10am, Thus., Oct. 6th.

If anyone is interested in doing other Maine 4,000 footers, let me know!

-Matt

 

[spencer]

Spencer - I spoke to a guide in the area who has brought customers in to roaring brook - thanks for the info - ill check with the rangers.

well, then he/she probably did it illegally. Only ranger sleds are allowed between the Togue Pond gatehouse and Roaring Brook. I just confirmed this with HQ b/c I was very surprised to hear that a guide had done it and implied that it was okay.

I'm always interested, but I don't think I can add anything else to my plate! Be patient, I'm sure you'll get some takers.

Cheers,

spencer

 

[dom15931]

I'm interested in doing Katahdin, but only on Oct. 3-5. I have off from 7:30pm Sunday, Oct. 2, and need to be back in Boston by 10am, Thus., Oct. 6th.

If anyone is interested in doing other Maine 4,000 footers, let me know!

-Matt

i am planning to do a maine 4k'er within the month. Probably the Bigelow range

 

[SherpaKroto]

John: Spencer can likely give you more avalanche info on Abol than I could. All I know is that it is one of the standard winter ascent routes up Katahdin, with the other being the Chimney Pond route. I believe that Acadia Mtn Guides is running folks up that route.

Skiing out from Chimney Pond to Togue Pond gate is a hoot! I couldn't ski the entiore route down from the pond (I skied up to Chimney, and a little over 2/3 of the way down from Chimney to Roaring Brook). It is a blast.

Good Luck on your plans!