Umbagog...snow, rain ..."wintery mix"

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spider solo

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Oct22-24, 2006
Earlier this fall I was able to go To Moosehead Lake in Maine and looked forward to going to Umbagog at the next chance I had before things get to frozen over up there.
Finally I had a 'window of opportunity' to take a couple of days and head on up and a chance to get away from things.
It certainly does get dark early these days I was "in for the night" by 6:30 pm. on those nights...such a late night rowdy fellow.
Orange was the color of choice for my hat...I had read that it was the 1st weekend for NH Moose hunting season, at least in that area. Since Umbagog is in both Maine and NH and is a combination of State, Federal and private ownership, I wasn't sure if all lands were open for the season.

However, I was going into some prime Moose country. Visibility would be the way to go.

Putting in at the Errol Dam I was reminded that I was heading up stream to go into the Lake, the water was running high so I hugged the shore line and made use of any slack current I might find along the way.
It took about an hr, give or take, to come into the main part of the lake . I was extra cautious to make note of where the Androscoggin River enters Umbagog as I would be approaching my return from a different direction. I also took a GPS waypoint in case it could come in handy. I didn't want to get confused where the Magalloway River enters, as there are various 'floating marsh land islands' areas surounding it.

Sun the 22nd... the water was surprising flat after the previous days wind that had howled through the White Mnts. Now as I paddled along the views of the snow caped mnts in the distance were beautiful.
Mid afternoon, I had made camp, leaving me with a chance to go exploreing and paddling about...no wind no waves!
Keeping my sleeping bag and a bivy bag with me, I seized the chance to cross over to the other shore... Tyler Point and Tyler Cove. Though the wind is known to come up suddenly, I had good luck and could zip along to my hearts content.
Returning to camp a couple of hrs later, I was just finishing supper when I felt the 1st rain drops. Hustling about... things were gathered up....ahh.... but for the very last... a nice cup of hot chocolate as I snuggle into my sleeping bag. Bedtime.. all of 6:30 p.m...during the night I could hear it snowing...6:30 a.m. I look out to see it still snowing...

Being there in the middle of Umbagog with it snowing all around was very, very beautiful.

Clearing weather found me packed and headed out...thing was it was 4 pm Monday and would be dark by 6:00 pm. Still calm wind, though I had heard it blow through in the night, conditions were good (though lightly raining) and I decided to give it a try for the north east section of the lake, as I had never been there before.

No other boats, nor did I ever see another soul ...it was a great time to be on the water. I turned into a large cove past some camps and several islands, I was looking for one in particular...but this cove seemed to be narrowing into a river and I thought I could hear rapids..indeed tuns out I was heading towards Rapid River, now part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail.
I thought there was some kind of camping up ahead, but I was fast running out of daylight and had to make land fall and get some kind of shelter up.
I found thicket of small pines where I could land and drag the boat up the banking. No food... no fire... having already eaten, I just had to sleep for the night.

The tent was such a "soggy sponge" of a shelter when I set it up, that I actually pulled out my bivy sack and used that inside the tent!!
I bivied in my own tent and that worked out excellent...it's like having fresh sheets or something like that. It meant not having to sleep with your face in a puddle of wet clothes for example.
The next day I was off to Sunday cove where the Island I was looking for was about 45 minutes from where I called it a night... so my less than scenic overnight was the right choice... otherwise I would have paddling around in the dark and rain etc etc...

Rapid River it turns out has quite the bit of history to it. I would like to go back to there and see what it's all about.
It was a very nice trip.
I saw no other boats or people other than the 1st day and played it carefull not going poking around into the marsh land areas I stayed more out in the open or along a hard shoreline.

It was a great trip and glad I was able to be paddling up there before it freezes up.
 
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spider,
Did you see the eagle's nest as you paddled by, north of where you entered the lake proper?

Umbagog is a magical spot. Couldn't make it out there for any overnights this year, but managed a few day trips. I've been heading there since before I can remember. Nice trip!

BTW, there are campsites near Cedar Stump at the inflow of the Rapid. These are likely the sites that you saw, but did not use.

Next stop, Richardson/Mooselookemeguntic? :cool:
 
Nice TR. We definitley have to get together for an overnighter there when I get back.

- darren
 
SherpaKroto said:
spider,
Next stop, Richardson/Mooselookemeguntic? ::

Yes, that's exactly what I've been thinking...it looks to be very promising ..very remote.
I did see the Eagles nest up in the Northern end of Umbagog...didn't spot the eagles, so I don't know how long into the season they stay there.
(We look for Bald Eagles in Great Bay NH. starting Dec thru March)
It was nice to see there are still loons up there ....though I would imagine they start to head out around now?

I see Rapid River depicted as a portage route...now that I know there is only limited times of high water it starts to make more sense to me. I had been wondering why the river area seemed to narrowing down quite a bit.
I definitely want to hike the portage route and see how that looks as a possibility.

Louise Dickersons Rich's cabin is along the way. I really should pick up a copy of "We Took to the Woods"...I've had it in my hands once or twice so about time I give it a read.

Darren, the pictures look great... esp. like the one of the Island .
Sounds good for an overnighter up there or several days, when you come back to "the main land"....
 
Sounds like the makings of the "First Annual VFTT Umbagog Expedition".
This was the first year we missed paddling there. It's just an amazing place. We once paddled end to end just for ice cream at the camp store-then paddled back!
Had an eagle pluck a fish right out in front of us and pass 10ft overhead,dripping on us! Of course we were all too dumbfounded to take a picture!
No trip to Umbagog is complete without rummaging around in the remains on Metallak Island. It was home to a grand hunting lodge owned by the lumber barons.
 
KayakDan said:
Had an eagle pluck a fish right out in front of us and pass 10ft overhead,dripping on us! Of course we were all too dumbfounded to take a picture!

I had the exact same thing happen to me. I even had my camera with a 300mm lens mounted on it sitting right in my lap. I didn't even pick up the camera. I just watched the eagle and the fish with my mouth open.

- darren
 
darren said:
I just watched the eagle and the fish with my mouth open.

- darren

What? did you expect the eagle to feed you? :D

It's nice to know we can go to places and still be awestruck by nature.
 
We loved our trip to Umbagog that we did about four summers ago with the Sudbury Valley Trustees. I think that we camped at the Cedar Stumps area near the mouth of the Rapid River, and we did a bit of exploring in the Rapid River area. Saw the eagle's nest! Would love to go back there.
 
KayakDan said:
Sounds like the makings of the "First Annual VFTT Umbagog Expedition".
Mooselookemeguntic/Richardson would also be an excellent choice for that. Lots of area to explore/many camping options.
KayakDan said:
No trip to Umbagog is complete without rummaging around in the remains on Metallak Island. It was home to a grand hunting lodge owned by the lumber barons.
I've been to Umbagog my entire life, but know nothing about that. I'll have to do some research! Thanks for the info!
 
Paul,there's little or nothing for info about Metallak. I tried looking for info,even contacted the town clerks in the area. I found out ,accidentally from another kayaker on a Knubble Bay trip a few years back. Metallak (named after a local indian) Island is the one with the beat up pink and white trailer,just south of Black Is.,on the ME side.
 
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