Utah - moved from Q&A

[askus3]

Utah

I am doing a five day swing thru Utah from Salt Lake City thru to Las Vegas. Oct. 5-9. I will first ask if there is a website that I can ask question like VFTT with knowledgeable people that could steer me right (or left). If not, I will ask here. I already have a crazy itinerary that I could not squeeze anything else into. Basically I want to do as much dayhiking as possible taking in Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef & Bryce. I have already done Zion on a quickie (Angels Landing & the Narrows). What I want to know if you had one day and one hike at each place what would you see? I also don't want to see every arch or canyon or spire or hoodoo. I want to vary my experiences so I am not inundated with one feature. Specific questions are with time constraints, ie. do I visit Fiery Furnace & Delicate Arch or Devils Garden. Since I will not arrive until 1 PM I doubt I have daylight for both. Or do both and leave out Canyonlands. Some say Canyonlands is far superior than Arches and others say Dead Horse Point is superior to both. I know I am in a win/win situation but I want to ask the experts. What is the special hike in Capitol Reef? Ive done Frying Pan to Cassidy Arch & Grand Wash in '72. Now what? Hickman Bridge, Navajo Knobs, Chimney Rock, Capitol Gorge & Golden Throne. Decisions-decisions. Should I spend some time in Goblin Valley, Calf Creek Falls (upper or lower or must do both), Cedar Breaks. Peekaboo/Navajo loop/Queens Garden is the obvious choice at Bryce. Seems like Fairyland Loop is nice but good as a second hike which time don't permit. I figure i would round my stay with Bristllecone Loop and touring the popular viewpoints. Maybe on my way in I'd see the Mossy cave. So give me your ideas, Maybe I should focus in on one park and see it well, but I have already committed to the whirlwind tour. So I am looking for suggestions, choices and expert opinions.

 

[arghman]

no advice, just envy...

 

[sli74]

You just can't go wrong in Bryce . . . I did a backpacking trip there on the Under The Rim trail but that won't fit into your one day limit. The Rim Trail BEFORE the tour buses start running gives you a beautiful view of the canyon from above but it is paved. Any of the trails running into the Canyon from the Rim would fit your bill. I would just pick up a map and get an early start and string a bunch of the trails together. Have fun !!!!

sli74

 

[slowandsteady]

Hi Aaron, here's my input based on a two-week trip in August 2001 which included the 5 parks you mentioned flying in/out of Las Vegas.

Arches - Canyonlands is better for hiking but the parts of Canyonlands I'd recommend (needles and maze) are just too remote for your itinerary. So, in Arches: Go out to Devils' Garden via Landscape and Double O arches (Double O are really cool - and you see a bunch of other arches) but return via the "primative" trail so you experience going through (literally) the "fins" that Arches is famous for and very different terrain (and away from the crowds). We did the loop when Dennis was 8 in about 2-1/2 hours. Don't skip Delicate Arch - the one on the license plate - you go out and back on slickrock and it's only a 3 mile round trip - to extend your day do it at sunset (or sunrise the next morning). Fiery Furnace was interesting but if you only have a short time - skip it as you will go through fins on the primative loop and you can't miss Delicate Arch - seeing it from the viewpoint just isn't the same. Also, Fiery Furnace is by permit with timeslots (it was in August 2001). A cool place to hike while in the Moab Area is the Fisher Towers area just north - again not the Moab slickrock but these towering pinnacles that one of the car companies positioned a car on at one point - there is a half day hike there.

The Island in the Sky part of Canyonlands (more accessible after Arches and Moab) has lots of smaller what we called driveby hikes - mostly great views from short side paths off the road – mesa arch has an incredible view but there isn't much hiking involved. We went to a place called upheaval dome and I think it was a couple of miles - varying terrain.

Capitol Reef - you hit some of the highlights already- if you're pressed for time do the Chimney Rock Loop (3 1/2 mile loop) and maybe Hickman Bridge (1 mile) - will get two different perspectives. Capital gorge is cool but if you have already done grand wash it's similar and a lot further to drive.

Bryce - can't go wrong anywhere. I can't recall the loop we did but it went by "wall street". Bryce was best very early in the morning - it was very crowded on the rim. We did a loop out by Bryce Point - a little away from the crowds but I can't remember the name.

I'd also consider Kodachrome State Park - great views for someone with little time.

If you're going through Zion anyway go to observation point. A little longer but less difficult than Angels Landing and you look down on Angels Landing.

That's all I can recall from memory.

I'm truely jealous.

 

[ADK Rick]

No advice for hiking, but....

If you want some flyfishing hints, I am the Utah expert. I try to get there for a week or so every summer or fall, alas I can't make it this year. There is some fantastic flyfishing in Utah.

I envy you!

ADK Rick

 

[DougPaul]

Was out there a few years ago... salivating all over my keyboard. So much to do and so little time...

My suggestions:
Arches:
There is a several hr tour of the fiery furnace--check at the VC. If you can get on it, take it. Otherwise Delicate Arch (also visible from the road) or any of the short hikes among the arches is nice.

Canonlands North:
Dead Horse Point and Grandview Point are both fantastic. (There is a nice short hike from Grandview Point. Lots of short hikes near Grandview Point--Upheaval Dome is particularly interesting.)
Canyonlands East:
The view from Needles Overlook (BLM, just NW of Monticello) really knocked my socks off--a 300deg view into the Needles district from a (high) point at the end of a mesa. Easily reachable with a 2-wheel drive passenger car.

Capitol Reef:
The drive on Burr Trail and north along Waterpocket Fold (Notam Rd) back to Fruita. The rocks were spectacular. (I did it in a 2-wheel drive passenger car--check on road conditions at the park hq.)

Bryce:
Both Sunset-Pt/Navajo Loop/Queens Garden/Sunrise Pt and Bristlecone Loop are worthwhile. Many of the viewpoints also very nice. The lighting at Sunset Point at (surprise!) sunset is amazing, similarly for Sunrise Point at sunrise.

Goblin State Park is very nice--lots of small hoodoos. You can spend an hour or two wandering around among the them. But it is small and isolated. If you have time great, but if not, save it for another visit.

Other points of interest along or near the route: Natural Bridges NM, Muley Point Overlook, Monument Valley. Timpanogos Cave NM (1 hr south of SLC) is worth a visit if you can escape SLC for a few hours or on your way S from SLC.

I picked up the fantastic "Utah! Official Highway Map" at the visitor center in the Salt Palace in central SLC. Shows the natural areas very well.

Hope this is of some help.

Doug

 

[Jaytrek57]

Great thoughts already. Hard to go wrong out there. My wife and I spent three weeks last year in those NPs.

I was most impressed with Canyonlands, but we did multi-day BC. You can do a lot of day hiking, but some of the loops are 10+ miles. We were in Lost/Elephant/Big Spring canyons and once you get in, over the first mesa…a whole new world opens up. I know you have time restraints, but FWIW if you could even spend a night in the BC there, set up a base camp, there are literally thousands of canyons to explore.

Arches. You can basically hit all the major Arches in a day of day hiking. The loop hike describe above is awesome (Devils Garden). Bring plenty, plenty of water.

Capitol Reef. Since you have done Flying Pan and the Grand Wash…I would recommend Navajo Knobs and the Rim Overlook. Also, there are a ton of petroglyphs in the area. Very, very cool.

Bryce. Riggs Spring Loop is a nice quiet loop. No crowds. Up near Bryce Point (overlook).

Zion? How about Kolob Canyons. Probably the most overlooked part of Zion towards the west.

Again, you can’t go wrong with anything you plan out there. Have fun!

Peace.

 

[slowandsteady]

Bryce. Riggs Spring Loop is a nice quiet loop. No crowds. Up near Bryce Point (overlook).

Zion? How about Kolob Canyons. Probably the most overlooked part of Zion towards the west.

Again, you can’t go wrong with anything you plan out there. Have fun!

Peace.

That was the name of it - Riggs Spring - thanks Jaytrek57 - that was one of the more peaceful places in Bryce.

Kolab Canyons was incredible - I was solo and experienced total silence (not even the sound of the wind) while out on the end of a ridge.

 

[askus3]

You folks make it tough. Too many choices. Here is a more detailed itinerary I put forth and hopefully will accomplish, but I am willing to fine tune, substitute, but with the time constraints and keeping my daughter's (adult)wishes in mind (shorter hikes and scenic driving included) I came up with this game plan.

Tue. 10/4 Fly to Salt Lake City arriving midnite, and drive to Provo.
Wed. 10/5 Allowing for jet lag and not getting to Provo till 1 AM Mountain time. I can't expect to get too early a starting time. Yet I hope to reach Arches by Noon. PM - Devils Garden (including Primitive Loop), late PM/evening - Delicate Arch. Sunsets 7 PM. I think Fiery Furnace I will have to pass up. Stay in Moab.
Thurs. 10/6 - Canyonlands. Due to time constraints, I will stick to Islands of the Sky region. Hikes - Grand View Point, Mesa Arch, Aztec Butte, & Upheaval Dome outlook. Should I substitute White Rim or Whale Rock for one I mentioned? Sunset - Dead Horse Point. stay in Green River.
Fri. 10/7 - Morning - Goblin Valley. I also saw this 8 mile trek thru Bell & Little Horse Slot Canyons in the vicinity which sounded cool - anyone have first hand knowledge of this hike? Stay in Hanksville. An easier day, to set up for a grueling tomorrow.
Sat. 10/8 - Hopefully leave before daybreak. Morning drive 30 miles to Capitol Reef. Various hikes to choose from - still uncommitted to a specific one. Strongly considering Hickman Bridge and going as far as Rim Overlook (not all the way to Navajo Knobs) This way my car is a base for two hikes. Considering leaving around 2 PM. UT 12 is supposed to be one of those spectacular drives and anyone have any comments for the Calf Creek Falls. I'd love to do Lower but due to time constraints will have to settle for Upper. Should I devote less time to Capital Reef or forego Calf Creek falls? This is tough choice. Capitol Reef is so nice from the way i remember it. Doug Paul's choice of the Burr Trail sounds great but not this trip. Stay in Tropic (100 slow miles from Capitol Reef.
Sun 10/9 - BRYCE till sunset and then drive to Las Vegas. 260 miles and fortunately a time zone change in my favor. The only park, i have pretty much know for sure what I am doing. Peekaboo/Wall street/Queens garden/ Touring, Bristlecone Loop, Back to sunset point for sunset and fight the crowds Columbus Day weekend.
Mon. 10/10- Home!

Slow&steady: very good recommendations, as i am using them for the most part. I was going to go to Kodachrome but thought I might need more time in Bryce. Fisher Towers didn't make the cut.

Jaytrek: If I had three weeks, I wouldn't have to ask as I would have time for everything (actually, I probably still be questioning myself - should I do this or that) but I'd love to go back to Zion, however, there is so many other pretty areas, so I move on. But I'll keep Kolob Canyon on the back burner along with some of the other hikes mentioned.

DougPaul: Some of your suggestions are super, I ve read about them but time just does not permit. When you were at Goblin valley did you do Little Horse slot canyon?

 

[TenPeaks]

Sun 10/9 - BRYCE till sunset and then drive to Las Vegas. 260 miles and fortunately a time zone change in my favor. The only park, i have pretty much know for sure what I am doing. Peekaboo/Wall street/Queens garden/ Touring, Bristlecone Loop, Back to sunset point for sunset and fight the crowds Columbus Day weekend.

I was in Bryce this past May and was not able to hike down to Wall St. because the trail was closed. They had a pretty rough winter and the spring melt washed out major sections of the trail. You may want to find out if the trail is open before making your plans. There was another section of trail closed too, but I don't recall the name. I believe it was the trail that connects wall st. to the queens garden area.

The Queens Garden hike is the only one I had time for. Since it's only about a mile to the garden expect lots of tourists. However, It's a great relaxing hike that gets you down into the hoodoos.

 

[Paul_Bear]

I've spent a few months hiking in the area over the course of half a dozen trips ... none of your suggestions are bad. It's hard to go wrong out there.

PM - Devils Garden (including Primitive Loop), late PM/evening - Delicate Arch. Sunsets 7 PM. I think Fiery Furnace I will have to pass up. Stay in Moab.

Those are probably the two best hikes in Arches, and if I could only do one I'd suggest the long Devils Garden Loop.

Thurs. 10/6 - Canyonlands. Due to time constraints, I will stick to Islands of the Sky region. Hikes - Grand View Point, Mesa Arch, Aztec Butte, & Upheaval Dome outlook. Should I substitute White Rim or Whale Rock for one I mentioned? Sunset - Dead Horse Point. stay in Green River.

All those short hikes are nice. But if you have more time, I think the best hike in the area is the Syncline Loop (and one of my favorites in Utah) ... about 8 miles, w/ a couple thousand feet of elevation change so maybe more than you're looking for. Grandview Point is also very nice (and similar to Dead Horse Point) and is a great spot for sunset (hike out the flat mile to the end of the trail).

Fri. 10/7 - Morning - Goblin Valley. I also saw this 8 mile trek thru Bell & Little Horse Slot Canyons in the vicinity which sounded cool - anyone have first hand knowledge of this hike? Stay in Hanksville. An easier day, to set up for a grueling tomorrow.

I've heard good things about those slots, but every time I've been in the area it's threatened rain so haven't been there yet.

UT 12 is supposed to be one of those spectacular drives and anyone have any comments for the Calf Creek Falls. I'd love to do Lower but due to time constraints will have to settle for Upper. Should I devote less time to Capital Reef or forego Calf Creek falls?

UT 12 is an awesome drive. I really like lower Calf Creek Falls, haven't done the upper. I think I prefer that area over Capitol Reef. Others may disagree. The best hike by far I've done in Capitol Reef is Muley Twist Canyon heading North from the Burr Trail (entry in the log book there proclaimed it the best hike in Utah ... and they may be right).

Jaytrek: If I had three weeks, I wouldn't have to ask as I would have time for everything (actually, I probably still be questioning myself - should I do this or that)

Even 3 months isn't enough to see and do all the good things out there. Enjoy the trip, I'm envious!

 

[xtraterrestrial]

I'll second the suggestion for Muley Twist north as best hike in Utah. Navajo Knobs is also fantastic. My first thought is you are going to spend too much time driving, in an attempt to tick off as many spots as possible. Go to Capitol Reef, you won't have to worry about crowds. You will need dry roads to get to Muley Twist, and if you're driving a low rider rental car, you will have a long (but still worthwhile) dayhike from the "low rider trailhead". Capitol Reef and Goblin Valley areas have so much BLM land that you can sleep almost anywhere and feel like you have the whole desert to yourself.

 

[askus3]

I found this site which advised me that the Wall Street Trail is open. But thanks TenPeaks for your concern.

I think from what you folks have informed me is that my itinerary is pretty good. Arches - sounds like I will be skipping Fiery Furnace. I saw that Syncline Loop as invitin. I might try that in Canyonlands but then I will probably have to forego several of the smaller walks (1-2 miles each), Maybe just that and Grand View and eliminate my side trip to Dead Horse Point. Another tough decision.

The hardest decision is getting me out of Capitol Reef to move on so I can do the Lower Calf Creek Falls and enjoy my drive along UT 12 south of Torrey. Boy, do I wish I have more time. 1/2 day for Capitol Reef just isn't doing the place justice.

Maybe I should drive the late evening after Canyonlands in the dark all the way to Torrey and stay 2 nights there giving Capitol Reef one full day and then a day devoted for UT 12, both Calf Creek Falls and Kodachrome State Park. This would leave out Goblin Valley & the hike thru Little Horse slot canyon. What does anyone think of that option?

There just is so many xciting things to do, see and hike! October sounds lovely weather wise but it curtails me to 12 hours of daylight when I need 25 hour days.

Thanks for you all responding as I keep adjusting and fine tuning. Keep your suggestions coming.

 

[slowandsteady]

Maybe I should drive the late evening after Canyonlands in the dark all the way to Torrey and stay 2 nights there giving Capitol Reef one full day and then a day devoted for UT 12, both Calf Creek Falls and Kodachrome State Park. This would leave out Goblin Valley & the hike thru Little Horse slot canyon. What does anyone think of that option?

Aaron, that part of the drive wasn't memorable so getting that completed in the dark would work. We did that and enjoyed the cool air and stars from the motel pool/hottub (heated).

Whatever you do it will be fantastic so don't sweat the details too much.

Enjoy.

 

[pudgy_groundhog]

I preferred the Needles district to Island in the Sky, but I can't remember how much longer the drive was. In Needles I did the hike from Elephant Hill to Chesler Park/Joint Trail loop. The hike was around 11 miles and I thought it was great.

In Arches the Devil's Garden primitive loop is a nice hike -- get to see a lot of Arches. Definitely take the 'primitive' trail back because it allows you to escape the crowds a little bit.

Delicate Arch at sunset is fantastic. If you don't have time to hike all the way to the arch itself there is a short hike with a view of it (but even hiking to the arch isn't all that far).

If you can squeeze in Dead Horse Point, do it (I did it at sunrise and it was wonderful).

FYI, pictures and trip notes from my trip are here if you want to take a look: http://www.pbase.com/pudgy_groundhog/utah

 

[el-bagr]

I just got back (yesterday) from a week in some of the same area. We flew to LAS, camped at Kodachrome Basin, and participated in my sister's (backcountry) wedding at Lower Calf Creek Falls. Plenty of exploration around the sides, including a good time in the Bryce backcountry (including my first horny toad sighting, which was quite exciting). UT 12 is worth driving in the light -- but most of your route is.

A few random notes, since I really have to catch up on work:

The bristlecone grove at Cedar Breaks is much more impressive than the one at Bryce -- though the views from Yovimpa/Rainbow Point are worth the walk. Cedar Breaks is much better than I expected (and than my wife, who grew up in state, remembered). It's worth walking away from the road there too. Actually, the Cedar Breaks bristlecone grove is the best I've seen, including the Inyo/White Mtns of CA and a few in the UT west desert.

Lower Calf Creek Falls is a good Escalante area hike, but it's short. Excellent petroglyphs and a high-cliff granary add to the natural beauty. The pool at the base of the falls is breathtakingly cold, about as cold as the Maine coast in late December -- I nearly passed out after about 5 minutes of swimming under the falls. I did litter patrol on our way out (picture, or don't picture if you prefer, 80 people, most of whom are nonhikers, hiking about 3mi in for a wedding) (yes, I know, backcountry ethical violation, but it's what she wanted).

Kodachrome Basin is nice, but less spectacular than Bryce or Cedar Breaks. More mudstone and siltstone than the Escalante slickrock, but some cool scrambling with a few nontechnical slots to climb. We slept out on the rocks, but it got near freezing each night. Cool chimneys though, which were unique (frozen silted-under geysers which then eroded free, to be exact).

UT 14 and UT 12 are both beautiful. Cedar City to Kodachrome is an incredible drive: Cedar Canyon's high cliffs, the Markagunt Plateau and Cedar Breaks, immense fresh lava flows, then Red Canyon's incredible rock formations. The drive from LAS to St George is also very scenic, with a long climb to the Virgin River watershed.

If you go to Goblin Valley, try to get in the Little Wildhorse / Bells Canyon loop. An easy half day intro to tight slots in the Swell. We've done this one quite often, as we have Thanksgiving in Goblin Valley every few years. (What a family I married into, eh?) My family would think you were nuts if you skipped Little Wildhorse to spend more time in Capitol Reef (their least favorite park, meriting Thanksgiving encampments only every 7 years or so).

Arches is cool, but it's actually my least favorite of the parks. Delicate Arch is worth walking to at least a few times in your life, especially if there's a full moon.

I'll get pics up one of these days. Unfortunately my digicam bit the dust (literally) at Kodachrome, right before I used it as a chock to marginally protect a slickrock scramble.

 

[dropack]

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

My wife and I were in Utah this July, we hiked many of the places you are planing to go. I have nothing to add about where to hike, you have already gotten good advice. But, if you pass the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, do yourself a favor and check it out. I am sure you will pass by it, if you could visit in the morning the sunrise from the highest dunes can and is very special. Have a great trip we loved it!

PS: Kodachrome is a great place to get away

 

[askus3]

I averaged ten miles a day for five hiking days out there in Utah. I had a spectacular trip although it was brief. I was particularly impressed with Delicate Arch at sunset in Arches, Little Wild Horse Canyon in the middle of no where and Bryce's Peekaboo Loop although that one was more like climbing the Franconia Range (too many hikers). Had a great trip.

Hikes that I did were the Devils Garden/Primitive Loop & Delicate Arch Hikes in Arches. Aztec Butte & Upheaval Canyon in Canyonlands (Island in the Sky District). Bell & Little Wild Horse Canyons near Goblin Valley. Rim Overlook & Hickman Bridge in Capitol Reef. Lower Calf Creek Falls in Escalante Park and the Navajo/Peek-a-Boo/Queens Garden Loop in Bryce. Also did a bunch of 1-2 mile walks to complement this and drive over 1,000 miles on this short adventure.

The weather was picture perfect. No complaints and if I had to do this trip again with the same time frame I would do it the same way. I think the hikes I chose were a good representation of the region.