Water Proofing Gear

[Tom Rankin]

I know about several water proofing products for shoes, but what about for pants, jackets, etc.?

I found Aqua Armor after a brief search.

Pros or cons?

Any other products?

 

[Gremlin]

I'm not sure you can waterproof fabric that isn't originally manufactured to be or become w'proof. Some hevy cotton garments can be waxed (don't do this to Ventile). You could prolly get the wax from Orvis. On my Gore_Tex I use Nikwax Techwash and TX Direct. Hope this helps.

 

[JoeCedar]

I have also used Nikwax TX Direct, but have not been impressed--not sure what the active ingredient is.

"Waterproofing" is probably too strong a word. Most of these materials simply increase the surface tension so that water forms droplets and falls off, rather than soaking in. In my experience, the effect doesn't last long and you are tempted to use it every time you wash the clothing--selling more stuff.

Here is some interesting history on "Scotchgard" which was very effective, but removed from the market.

 

[Gremlin]

Thanks, I wondered why Scotchguard was no longer available.

I think that when the original DWR wears off (as it must do eventually) an applied DWR is never as long lasting. It helps to put the garment(s) in the dryer for 20 - 30 min. to work the DWR in, but I still have to re-apply every four washes or so. Once again it helps the DWR to be put in the dryer after each wash.

 

[Jeff List]

I've had pretty good luck refreshing the DWR using:
1. Atsko Sport-Wash, followed by:
2. Atsko Fluoropolymer Permanent Water-Guard (in aerosol can).

It is (supposedly) important to first clean out your washing machine of all detergent residues by running a water-only cycle before washing the garment with the Sport-Wash.
After washing, dry in the dryer normally (make sure it doesn't get too hot to melt it). At that point you can do the "run the arm under the faucet" test to check the performance of the remaining DWR. If water doesn't bead up and roll off nicely, then proceed to the Water-Guard step. Completely wet-out the garmet with the Water-Guard, then allow to air dry. Then you must activate the DWR with heat. You can do it in your dryer if it gets hot enough, but I've found that mine does not. I use an iron set on low, and of course you want to run the iron over a similar test fabric to make sure you're not going to melt anything. After ironing, I do the arm under the faucet test again to verify that the DWR is good.
This is all a rather labor-intensive proceedure, but it's worked for me.

As mentioned, a DWR coating is not the same as waterproofing. But if rain beads up and rolls off, the actual "waterproof/breathable" layer has a much better chance of working as intended.

 

[Gremlin]

Thanks for the beta.