West Butt

[bcborder]

I'm heading off for an attempt on Denali in two weeks Up the West Buttress, down the Karstens Ridge/Muldrow glacier and walk out to Wonder Lake. I'm going guided with Mountain Trip, 6 clients, 3 guides, June 3 to 30.

I think I've got all my gear. I've been training since November including several winter backpacking trips and a lot of time carrying a 60lb pack. I know there's a bunch of people on this site who've been on Denali before. If anyone has any tips, stories or just encouragement, it would be great to hear them.

 

[Frodo]

Just a few things that the guides may or may not have told you...

Bring some really good "perishable" food for the 1st day or 2. Your going to be eating freeze dried bags of crap for close to a month, so the less days the better... Next time I go I am stepping off of that glacier plane with a large sausage and onion pizza and a big bottle of Pepsi! I also recommend bringing one or 2 lbs of sweets to consume thru out your trip. They are good to eat for dessert or as snacks, and are a nice alternative to all the freeze dried... Also bring plenty of powdered Gatorade or something else to flavor the water. Your going to be drinking melted snow for close to a month and that gets quite old after the 1st day.

I'd also recommend bringing an Ipod (with a battery charger) , a good "thick" book, a journal, some pictures of your loved ones, and a deck of cards. Your going to be spending many days resting in your tent and time goes by SLOW...

Also, leave all modesty behind when it comes to using the bathroom. There are a few pit toilets at Base Camp on the Kahiltna, and at 14K camp, but most are nothing more than a wooden box built over a hole, with very few or no sides, and they are right out in the open. But don't worry about having to take a dump in public, we all have to do it... In between Base Camp and 14K Camp you have issued community bags to share and deposit into crevasses. Above 14K there are no more pit toilets, but they issue a plastic bucket with a screw on lid for each team to share. These need to be brought all the way back down, and what's worse than having to share it, is when it's your turn to carry it...

Be safe and have a blast! Your going on a trip of a lifetime, and when you have a bad day or 2, or 3, try not to get discouraged, just keep thinking about the big picture, the whole trip...

Looking forward to seeing your pictures!

 

[Hampshire]

Bcborder,


I’m sure you’ve read just about everything you can get your hands on regarding this trip. I agree with all of Frodo’s comments. I would only add, be patience and expect some bad days, weather wise, physically, and or mentally. The toughest part of the climb for me was the mental aspect.

If you have any specific questions, I’d be happy to answer them. Send me a PM.

Have a great trip. I’ve read several trip reports for the traverse and it seems that the trip from the summit out is the highlight. I still look at my pictures from that trip with amazement; the whole area is absolutely beautiful.

P.S. Have your camera ready for the flight onto the glacier.

 

[AOC-1]

Here's a "Must Have Denali Gear" thread from another site. Have a great time.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/656499/page/1#Post656499

 

[TomD]

Don't mean to sound negative, but two well-known climbers from the Seattle area got killed on Denali last week. Check Cascadeclimbers for the details. They fell 1900 ft roped together descending the West Buttress at about 17K. The link is in a thread a few down from this one.