Grand Canyon: A Tale of Beauty and Survival (Part III)

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rhihn

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Several parties came through that day, and we appeared to have the premium spot. The cliffs surrounding the site were magnificent (somewhat reminiscent of an “Indiana Jones: Temple of Doom setting!). For entertainment, we were visited by numerous lizards (I’m guessing they were of the “spiney lizard” variety). The lizards made short work of the biting ants in the area, and I’d swear they showed off for Joanne’s camera by doing push-ups! Shade was plentiful under the ledge until about 1:00 PM, when we had to move to the “bathtub” or to various dappled shadings of small trees until the sun set. That evening we were visited by “Zoltan,” a Hungarian engineer living in North Carolina, who was hiking solo. His English was quite good, and we had a lively conversation that ranged from canyon trails to Russian occupation, hiking gear, creationism, museums, opera, Bartok, food dehydration, and politics.

Jan, always pushing himself, wanted to check out Hermit Creek Rapids in the middle of the next day. Jack joined him, not wanting Jan to go alone. After considerable discussion, our (Joanne’s, Lani’s, and Dick’s) plan was to leave at 4:00 PM, take the Tonto Trail over to Hermit Trail, up the Cathedral Stairs, camp at Breezy Point, and reach the rim the next day. Jan and Jack arrived back at the site just as we were preparing to leave – wiped out from his dayhike. Their plan was to have dinner, and “catch up” to us at the Hermit Trail junction, have all of us spend the night there, and head out. The reality was that we proceeded as our trio had planned, and Jan and Jack spent the night and a lazy morning at the junction, and we did not meet up again until up on the rim.
The hike up the “Cathedral Stairs” was a stiff one indeed, but we took our time and enjoyed it. At the top of the “stairs” it was another half mile or so to Breezy Point. Our night on the side of the cliff was a glorious one! Breezy was the operative word, but a gentle one, and the site offered one of the widest vistas of the entire trip, complete with sunset, followed by “in-your-face” constellations. Far from static and dull, the changing colors of the canyon throughout each day are truly kaleidoscopic.

We arose at 4:00 the next morning, in anticipation of a long hike out, trying to beat the sun. We had a few head-scratching moments here and there, as we made our way through a few of the boulder fields, but by and large it was a straightforward hike. Our first “goal” was Santa Maria Springs for a water and rest stop. It is essentially a lean-to with a bench and rocking chair, enclosed by a “natural” barrier of growing tree branches for shade. The “spring” is a small pipe that drips water into a metal trough, about 2 ft. x 4 ft., which is filled with green slime. We filtered (the water was delish), and chatted with a couple that had been camped at Hermit CG near us. Two and a half miles to go (remember that Lani was hiking on a broken toe). I don’t know where they all came from, but it seemed that everyone in the canyon was passing us on the way up! The switchbacks seemed to be more numerous and steeper than they were on the way down. We took our time, yet were mindful of the sun and decreasing shade, not wanting to have a repeat of the first day. We finally made it to the top, and waited a good two hours for Jan and Jack to arrive. Nothing to do but to shower, dress, and wend our way homeward, with a lifetime of memories (too many to have related in this tale), and, we hope, more wiser for the experience.

Dick
 
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesh...n_speed=1&Uc=tdpb2qu.4gqxccsa&Uy=-ymdc54&Ux=0

I am still coming to grips with the emotions and magnitude of the events of last Wednesday's hike. I owe my life to Dick and the other members of our party, most of whom we had just met. It seemed as if one moment I was dealing with hydration and heat issues reasonably well, and the next moment my body had deteriorated to the point of exhaustion and delerium. I am humbled and awed by these turn of events and the fact that there is very little margin for error when hiking under these extreme conditions. God , my husband, and our hiking partners were watching out for me that day. I will always be grateful.
I STILL managed to take pictures!!!!!!
 
Glad all survived. The Canyon can be a harsh place. Staggeringly beautiful.

When I was a kid, we hiked to the bottom in August--it was 113F at 6pm... Fortunately it was overcast and relatively cool when we hiked out the next day.

My more recent visits have been in April or so... Max temps on the Tonto Plateau were only ~80F. (It had been below freezing on the S Rim the night before.)

Doug
 
Thanks heavens you two are OK :), that must of been very scary. Did you all figure out it was perhaps dehydration/heat related?

I've never been to the Grand Canyon, but it must be a really nice place for those interested in geology.

Very nice pictures, I liked all the flowers and the sunset pictures!

BTW, Hermit has one of those "old bear traps" in his house in the Catskills, he showed it to me, those things are huge and very heavy!

Jay
 
Jay H said:
Thanks heavens you two are OK :), that must of been very scary. Did you all figure out it was perhaps dehydration/heat related?

I've never been to the Grand Canyon, but it must be a really nice place for those interested in geology.

Very nice pictures, I liked all the flowers and the sunset pictures!

BTW, Hermit has one of those "old bear traps" in his house in the Catskills, he showed it to me, those things are huge and very heavy!

Jay

Thanks, Jay. Of course we knew it was dehydration/heat. The symptoms seem to overlap. We knew fairly soon that Joanne was not right, and it's truly scary how quickly the symptoms can come on.

You have the gift of understatement. :) It is a heavenly geological candyland!
 
I have backpacked in the Canyon 5 times over the years, the effects of the "dry" heat never cease to amaze me. On one trip near Crystal Rapids it was 125 degrees, and because you really don't sweat that much, heat stroke can get you very fast. An exciting report, thank goodness you found that bit of shade!
 
Thank you both for the tale and the pictures. It is sure scary how fast illness can hit. When we were hiking the Hermit trail a couple of years ago, I remember marvelling at the DRY heat and lack of perspiration, and how much nicer than our humid air it all was. In the next moment I was fighting a rising feeling of nausea and had to hold on grimly for another mile in the sun till we got to Hermit Creek.
 
I was out there last week doing a two day rim to rim to rim on 5/17 and 5/18 and can confirm that it was quite hot. We left the South Rim and descended the South Kaibab trail and then ascended the North Kaibab trail to the North Rim where we spent the night at the North Rim Lodge. We returned the next day via the North Kaibab trail and the Bright Angel trail for a total of about 45 miles over the two days. We left each day by 6 a.m. and were facing 100 degree temps by noon. Fortunately, there is plenty of water along that route and we also took electrolyte supplement tablets. We met an older gentleman who was doing his 55th rim to rim to rim. He does them year round, including in 115 degree heat. Unlike in colder weather, he wears cotton clothing and keeps wetting himself down with a water bottle he carries. He said the evaporative cooling is a big help.
 
I've been in the Canyon a couple of times as well, and that intense dry heat is just not something you can prepare for here in the East! But what a wonderous place! So glad you are both OK!
 
This was posted on wrong web site!!!!

RHIHN you should have posted this on View From The Bottom!!!! :D Great TR ...... there's something for those of us northeastern hikers who head west to try the canyon country without proper understanding of desert heat issues. Pre-dawn starts are critical! When I get time to go there I'll remember your lessons you learned. Thanks for sharing. Well written tale!
 
Thanks, Jazzbo. We knew the drill about the pre-dawn starts and did just that on subsequent days. Unfortunately we went with a group that for some reason decided not to.

RickM, we also utilized the wet cotton routine, which is standard procedure out there (and sometimes so wrong in the NE). No way I'm doing 22 miles in a day anywhere on the face of the earth, even if I could. I want to see where I'm going!:D

Thanks audrey and dms for your comments!

Dick
 
DougPaul said:
Haven't tried it myself, but I have read that an umbrella can be a big help out in the sun.

Doug

I actually mentioned the idea of an umbrella to my Arizona companions, who had canyon and desert experience. They looked at me as though I had two heads. But I agree, it seems to make good sense.

Dick
 
rhihn said:
I actually mentioned the idea of an umbrella to my Arizona companions, who had canyon and desert experience. They looked at me as though I had two heads. But I agree, it seems to make good sense.
Two heads are better than one. Particularly if they are shaded...

(Or: Two heads in the shade are better than one in the sun.)

IIRC, the passage that I read suggested it was effectively 20 deg cooler. (Think of it as portable shade.) Light colors might be better than dark, but any color would be better than none.

Umbrellas can also be nice in windless/low wind rain.

Doug
 
Last edited:
Edelweiss said:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesh...n_speed=1&Uc=tdpb2qu.4gqxccsa&Uy=-ymdc54&Ux=0

I am still coming to grips with the emotions and magnitude of the events of last Wednesday's hike. I owe my life to Dick and the other members of our party, most of whom we had just met. It seemed as if one moment I was dealing with hydration and heat issues reasonably well, and the next moment my body had deteriorated to the point of exhaustion and delerium. I am humbled and awed by these turn of events and the fact that there is very little margin for error when hiking under these extreme conditions. God , my husband, and our hiking partners were watching out for me that day. I will always be grateful.
I STILL managed to take pictures!!!!!!

Edelweiss,

And SUCH beautiful pictures! Oh my--despite your harrowing experience, it seems you were still able to experience the amazing beauty of the place. Your images bring back such wonderful memories. Thanks for sharing--both your pics and your experience. I hope it helps others!
 
Thanks for the comments and encouragement, Seeker and others. I am fully recovered - we did some trail maintenance in the Daks yesterday and I felt like my old self again. :D The pictures, of course, don't do justice to the magnificence of the Grand Canyon setting and I didn't take as many as I would have liked, but I think they are representative of our trek. We WILL go back
 
rhihn said:
I actually mentioned the idea of an umbrella to my Arizona companions, who had canyon and desert experience. They looked at me as though I had two heads. But I agree, it seems to make good sense.

In this image, 2 people who walked across America are depicted on the cover of a book with an open umbrellas strapped to their packs.

http://www.janice142.com/Whatnot/Travel/WalkWest2.jpg

They appear to be in a hot, dry place with no clouds...
 
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