Thoreau Falls, Pemi, 23 Miles, Monsoon - 9/15/2007

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sapblatt

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Well, judging from the lack of cars, crowds and trip reports, apparently LarryD, Tuco and me were amongst the few folks who ventured out yesterday in the bad weather. Are we dedicated, or are we stubborn and thick? You decide. The intellegentsia in our group, Rols stayed home to avoid the rain. As we were soaked after about three minutes on the trail we speculated that he was at home in a warm bed and his wife was making him a hot breakfast and refilling his coffee cup. Boy, we felt stupid. Ryan was even smarter - he never considered this!

But I digress - Eric and I met at about 3:15am and headed up to Zealand to meet Larry we then drove onto Lincoln Woods and were on the trail at 6:55am. The forecast of about 1/10th of an inch of rain was way off - it pretty much poured for our entire ride up and until about 1pm on our hike. The Wilderness Trail was pretty much covered with puddles that were unavioidable. Our initial plan was to hike to the Thoreau Falls Trail and up to the falls, then across to the Ethan Pond Trail and out via Zealand - about 18 + miles of very moderate terrain.

We made excellent time - reaching the Bondcliff Trail in about 1:50 and not much after that we were over the bridges and on the Thoreau Trail. Another very moderate trail. My weight loss, and extra hiking days are making this easier for me. Even in the soaking conditions we were going quite fast. There are a lot of uphill sections on this trail, but none of them were enough to have catch your breath on and they all went very quickly - a couple of minutes each. The temps and the rain also motivated us to keep moving.

Eventually we made it to the falls a little after noon time. We had watched the raging river off and on all day and we kind of knew all along it was unlikely we would get across. All it took was one look to know there was no way in hell anyone would be crossing today. The rapids at the falls looked like the scene in Deliverance when the guy dove out of the canoe - it was pretty scary just sitting there. Of course, the lure of the trail and the quick walk out was motivating us to find a way, but there was no way. We even tried bushwhacking up to the Ethan Pond Trail for a few minutes but the cliffs that dropped down to the falls seemed make the only available routes to the east, which would of pushed us into no man's land - we knew we had to stay in sight of the river and head north east. The only option for us (experienced bushwhackers may have been able to do this) was to head out the same 11.5 miles we hiked in back to Lincoln Woods. It was going to be a slog.

At 1:00PM we were officially on our way back out. Eric was looking a bit beat at this stage and we moved pretty quickly but took a few breaks. The rain was stopping and by about 2pm we actually saw som occasional sunshine. We covered the 5 miles back to the Wilderness Trail in 2:15 - and this is about when I started to fall apart - not a good thing when you had 6.5 miles left!

It was strange - I was somewhat nauseaus, all of our feet probably looked like they had been through meat grinders and it was a long grind out. My last few hikes my back has been getting ground up as well - major chafing and sores - not really sure what to do about it - body glide? I am afraid of getting it all infected - about half of my back is covered in sores/scrapes - not a comofrtable way to spend the last 7 hours of a hike. I am speculating that the sore skin on my back was making me walk in a way that relieved some of that pressure - this was forcing my diaphragm down into my stomach and making me feel ill. It kept getting slower and slower. Each landmark passed and we still had a long way to go. We made it back at about 6:45pm for an almost 12 hour hike - not bad for 23 miles, 7 of which I was hurting for. I noticed we were all hurting and it had rained again for the last couple of hours. It was very much hypothermic weather too - we quickly went back to Zealand and while changing there, Larry and I were both shivering - very cold. Eric put the heat on and we headed south at the end of a very long day. I finally made it to a local Chinese Food Emporium and got home around 10:30pm - if you really want to know pain - rinse your hair in the shower so the water runs down your back rinsing all the dirt and salts over a chafed back - I felt so alive. :eek:

This was a great hike all in all - I had never been so deep into the Pemi - to think that we hiked 6.5 miles just to get to the second trail - then we had 5 miles to go is rather amazing (or is that insane?) The terrain is really nice, the river was raging and the falls are quite spectacular - I plan to hit them again in a couple of weeks from the other side.

Here are a few of my pictures - it was not a biig day for taking the camera out - Eric took more that I hope he will post.

Back to tending my blisters.

PICTURESshare.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8CauGbVozaKIbQ
 
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Not sure you want to hear this until your wounds have healed, but if you follow Thoreau Falls Tr up to the stream crossing above the falls and turn right, you can bushwack parallel to the stream until you come to a bridge (~.3 mi) where the Ethan Pond Tr crosses the stream.

Doug
 
Doug Paul -
Thanks - I figured there was something like that - we saw a well worn path there and I figured it went somewhere, but I figured it went to Shoal Pond area. It would have been helpful, as I felt great for 17-18 miles - so gettiing out to Zealand would have save 6 miles of agony.
Oh well, next time. Thanks again.
 
Mike, I think it's terrific you hiked 23 miles to see Thoreau Falls. I've been there many times, usually as a leisurely stroll from the hut. So, I guess you truly deserved what you got! ;)

We were headed for Whiteface yesterday until the 8am rain forced us to reconsider (for Genie's sake, of course). So, we climbed Mt. Israel and stayed relatively dry but could see the rain to the east, north, and west.
 
That's gotta be the longest out-and-back hike to see a waterfall in the Whites I've ever heard of! Congrats!

What's next, starting at Crawford Notch, heading over the Presidentials, stopping at the falls of Appalachia, and then turning around? ;)
 
Interesting trip report. Several years ago on a cold, rainy November day I had a new Goretex coat and we hiked into the falls from Zealand trailhead so I could try out my coat and to enjoy the thunderous Falls. The coat was great and the Falls were awesome. We had about two hours before dark so were about to head back when a lone hiker appeared across the Falls. He was looking for a way to cross and “impossible” is how I would describe it. I think I know what happened now….
 
Well....I did have a late morning breakfast at home but the truth is I missed not hiking with you guys. Knowing you guys, I am sure you may a tough day on the trail lots of laughs. Hope we can get out soon (when the sun is out).
 
As tough a day as it was with the mileage and rain, there were lots of laughs and the effort was great.

There may have been a way to make it up river to the bridge, but not being sure we opted for the sure way back. This one goes into the files of trips to remember.

We could have had a pancake breakfast.... ;)

My TR and a link to my pix and a short video of the Falls is below...

http://tucohiking.com/page7.html
 
Nice TR Mike. As usual, an eventful day with you and Eric.

Doug, we did know the Ethan Pond Trail was not far away and we certainly did not look forward to re-tracing our steps. However when we did not find a clearly-defined herd path heading to the EP Trail we decided to head back. As it was we barely got back to the car during daylight, and we were all pretty beat. If we had spent a lot of extra time/effort trying to locate the EP Trail, and were not successful, the trip back would have been much worse. While we all had headlamps, and thus could have navigated the Lincoln Woods Trail after dark, we did not look forward to that experience.

If the weather had been nicer and there were an extra hour or two of daylight, I think we may have tried to bushwhack to the EP Trail a little longer. I am sure more experienced whackers would have had no problem doing that.

I have absolutely zero regrets about not trying to cross the falls. The water was raging and it is not hyperbole to say that a mis-step would have been catastrophic.

Part of the reason for this trip was to red-line the Thoreau Falls Trail. I had been to the other side of the Falls from the other direction. Now I have to return again and actually cross the river, to complete my redining of the trail. That means hiking a minimum of almost 6 miles to complete about 50 feet of the trail!
 
LarryD said:
Doug, we did know the Ethan Pond Trail was not far away and we certainly did not look forward to re-tracing our steps. However when we did not find a clearly-defined herd path heading to the EP Trail we decided to head back.
The bushwack route does not show very well on the AMC maps. However, the route is very clear on the USGS 24K scale map:
http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?lat=44.1698&lon=-71.46744&datum=nad27&u=4&layer=DRG25&size=m&s=50
The cross-hairs are on the bridge. The route is very easy--just stay close to the river and keep it on your left. Distance is only ~.3 mi.

Obviously, when in the field, you have to decide based upon what you know at the time and the maps that you have with you.

I originally heard of the bushwack as a winter route so the markings on the ground may not be all that obvious. I've always been able to cross the stream and have not tried it myself.

Doug
 
Doug -
Thanks for the map - Eric started to follow that route - very near to the river but it really seemed unpassable (to three inexperienced bushwhackers) after about 100-200 feet - I am sure the more seasoned at that stuff would have breezed thru...I would like to try that again...it would have been a much nicer day without the out and back part of it!
 
DougPaul - or anyone -

where the Thoreau Falls Trail takes its last left turn and downclimbs a bit (maybe 50-100 yards to the falls) the actual falls there is a rather obvious herd path heading off in the opposite direction - does anyone have any idea where that goes??? My best guess would be to either a campsite (although it seemed to well defined for that) or off towards Shoal Pond...just wondering...
 
You three guys are nuts! Twenty three miles in rainy/dreary/cold conditions and the "leader" with back and foot pain to boot. Wish I was there! :cool:

Larry, please stop hitting Mike in the back with your trekking pole. I know Mike's habit of stopping to look for toads is a bit unusual, but he should not be flogged for that :rolleyes:

Great photos, Mike and Eric, especially of the rushing waters! :D

Best regards,
Marty
 
Mike,

I've been sitting here thinking it was great that you all made it out safe and sound. After thinking about it I realize you probably didn't come out any more sound than when you went in - a questionable condition at best. :rolleyes:

The story reads like a great day, with a few tests along the way. Wish I was there but I got rained out on a goose hunting event instead.

You guys had more fun!

Earl
 
Let us know if you are going to try this again at some point. We've gotten into trail running and one of the routes we want to do is from Zealand to Lincoln Woods. We could grab your car keys from you somewhere along the way where we meet and drive you car up to you at Zealand.
 
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