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  1. cbcbd

    Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress (III 5.7) route

    Awesome story! :) That just really makes it special! You wanna lead me some climb? ;)
  2. cbcbd

    Mt. Whitney via the East Buttress (III 5.7) route

    Congrats Court and Jeff!! Looks like an awesome climb on some awesome rock!! Any other untold parts of the story to divulge? Summit bivy, stumbling in the dark until wee hours of the morning? :) I've been on some climbing trips where the pics kinda stop after a certain point where the...
  3. cbcbd

    Moving out West.....and bye-bye hike 5/21

    Hey Mats, Having already made a couple trips over that way for ice climbing at Hyalite (or passing on my way to Cody, WY), I will make sure to keep your info handy and I'm sure I'll see you this winter ;) Good travels!!
  4. cbcbd

    Climber dies after crevasse fall skiing down Rainier after successful summit

    The skier fell in on the skin up, not the ski down. http://www.thenewstribune.com/2011/05/11/1661786/skier-who-died-on-mount-rainier.html Amar Andalkar, who has skied Rainier numerous times, runs the website skimountaineer.com, posted these thoughts on Turns All Year regarding the accident...
  5. cbcbd

    Mt. Stuart (9,415 ft), Stuart Range, Cascades, WA (May 3-4, 2011)

    Great having the east coast leaf over here! It was great to take advantage of that sunny day and then do the usual Seattle thing and escape East to the desert for dryness. The big mountains haven't been getting climbed out here recently, haven't had too many great weather windows and this was...
  6. cbcbd

    Huntington Dreams (3/20/11)

    Leafy, you rock :) It looks like I'm going to have to start working out :eek: ...and after you warm up on those you can come climb in WA :) I guess OR works too ;)
  7. cbcbd

    Climbing in the South Basin, Mt. Katahdin, ME (2/30/11)

    Nice job all!! Digging Arm's 12X bigness ;)
  8. cbcbd

    Ice Year in Review 2010

    Nice going Leafy. A+++ :)
  9. cbcbd

    conditioning for Rainier

    So looking at some of the numbers: Day One - You will be going from 5400' to 10000' in 4.5mi, carrying your heaviest load, probably between 30-50lbs. Summit day- if leaving from Muir on summit day you will be going from 10000' to 14400' in about 2.5mi as the crow flies and without counting...
  10. cbcbd

    climbing crampons; G14's, another G12 or somehing else ?

    I nice pair of sharpened steel vertical points are definitively nice to have on bulletproof NE ice. If you have the extra cash, you find you ice crag more often, and it will make your climbing a little more enjoyable then I'd go for them. Sure, there are diff between the G14 and M10s but you...
  11. cbcbd

    Looking for inexpensive plastic double boots?

    I was considering buying these boots from a local shop out here (Pro Mountain Sports, owned by Jim Nelson, author of a local guidebook, and old workplace of Colin Haley). Tried them on and they felt great on my feet. They are light, the plastic is much more pliable than the Koflachs', and they...
  12. cbcbd

    when nature calls

    I third this. Squatting is the key. Get into a nice low stance with the cheeks widely spread and you concentrate the mess to a small area. Because of this I can get by with using the TP I use and mentioned - twigs, rocks, snow cones, etc. Since you don't make as much of mess around a bigger...
  13. cbcbd

    when nature calls

    A friend of mine once told me her pooping-in-the-woods dissertation. Ever since that lesson I've been happily doing my business using rocks, twigs, and snow cones (my favorite) as TP. So far no monkey-butt.
  14. cbcbd

    SAR insurance - a random thought

    The main issue with this is that you can't approach it without talking about the issue of charging for rescue. If everyone was charged for rescue then offering insurance would have some value. If no one was charged and SAR still provided a service then you have no added value. The money would...
  15. cbcbd

    Climber dies on Emmons Route, Mt. Rainier

    This sucks and is sad, RIP. I'll pray for his loved ones. I've said it before and IMO people, especially ones new to "mountaineering" put too much emphasis on the self-arrest. Better footwork and general climbing technique are much more important. I think this story illustrates that there are...
  16. cbcbd

    Winter Backpacking Stoves

    Steve House has a little trick he mentions using with his canister stove on Nanga Parbat (@ 14:30): http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/popup/media_gallery_video.jsp?OPTION=SAR&assetid=10171 They used the MSR Windpro, where you can flip the canister upside down. Purely anecdotal - at 13K' I made...
  17. cbcbd

    Winter Backpacking Stoves

    What are you looking to get out of it? Ease of use, no hassles, no sooty hands? I've been using my Jetboil almost exclusively for most of my trips, especially the ones where I've had to melt snow for water. Other than that, I've had no problems with my Whisperlite Internationale in the winter.
  18. cbcbd

    Beautiful Even in Death

    Wow, very cool, and sad. You're totally right... beautiful. Hahaha!! :D
  19. cbcbd

    First 4' ker: Mount Osceola for Conor, Tucker and Taylor

    Gig, this is awesome! I really like how you are progressing Conor into this awesome lifestyle that we all enjoy so much. Way to go and congrats to all the kiddos!!
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