Climber dies after crevasse fall skiing down Rainier after successful summit

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I was on the NE face of Mt Hood yesterday just south of Rainier.
It was a beautiful day, with all NE to SE aspects receiving significant solar softening. From 3am to about 8am the surface was hard packed with crampons barely penetrating. By 10am (when this accident occurred) I was surprised at how soft the snow pack had gotten.

He may have been unfortunate enough to have *stopped over a hidden crevasse with softening snow conditions.

*picture # 12 may indicate he stopped above the ice falls, perhaps to access route options.

Very unfortunate. I’m sure a lot of folks have been itching to get out on the first nice weather day.
 
It's alway on the way down that kills em.

:confused: Were you trying to make a joke ?

We saw 2 or 3 guys skiing down from the summit as we ascended...my impression at the time was fear and awe, maybe like watching someone climb Free Solo.

I believe anyone who can summit and decides to ski Rainier understands the risk. Skiing below Muir is a great idea. Skiing above is an attempt to defy the odds. IMHO.
 
Anyone remember Mike Gauthier? He used to be the Head Snow Ranger on Rainier, but is now doing something on his own. Anyway, the first time I was on Rainier (Camp Sherman route) he was the ranger stationed there, and since it was stormy for a couple of days we hung around at high camp and visited with him a bit. He was so familiar/competent with the area, he'd summit and then get down via his snowboard. I saw him on a couple of runs zig-zagging thru the crevasses on the Winthrop glacier. Not for me!!
 
Not a joke, reality of climbing. I'd never joke about anything as serious as dying on a mountain.

The way down is more demanding n generally where more injuries n fatalities happen.

.
 
The skier fell in on the skin up, not the ski down.

http://www.thenewstribune.com/2011/05/11/1661786/skier-who-died-on-mount-rainier.html


Amar Andalkar, who has skied Rainier numerous times, runs the website skimountaineer.com, posted these thoughts on Turns All Year regarding the accident:

"The accident site was just west of Nisqually Cleaver, see the images below. Hearsay at Camp Muir on May 10 was that the party had climbed Fuhrer Finger and that was presumably their intended ski descent too, but I have no idea if that info is correct.

However, it looks like a non-standard place for them to have been skinning up, right beside a bunch of exposed seracs and partially open crevasses. It's more dangerous in that area (as confirmed by the accident), while the safer standard route is down the obvious central fall line of the upper Nisqually Glacier, a few hundred feet farther west. That is the most snow-filled and least crevassed portion of the upper Nisqually, and the line that almost all parties ascend and ski as far as I know. The standard line is not very far west of where the accident occurred, but a hundred feet left or right can be an entirely different route in some places on a glacier, with an entirely different degree of crevasse hazard. But it's also appealing to ski and photograph near exposed seracs and open crevasses, so it's easy to understand why they might have taken the line they did."

http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=20791.0
 
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I understand ropeless ski descents, but how common is it to skin up the route at this time of year without roping up? Seems like a straightforward precaution that would have averted this fatal accident.
 
Anyone remember Mike Gauthier? He used to be the Head Snow Ranger on Rainier, but is now doing something on his own. Anyway, the first time I was on Rainier (Camp Sherman route) he was the ranger stationed there, and since it was stormy for a couple of days we hung around at high camp and visited with him a bit. He was so familiar/competent with the area, he'd summit and then get down via his snowboard. I saw him on a couple of runs zig-zagging thru the crevasses on the Winthrop glacier. Not for me!!

I met him at the Highpointers Konvention in Puyallup summer of 2004 where he gave an incredible slide show, with special focus on recent rescues and recoveries on Liberty Ridge. The guy is truly amazing.
 
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