11/16 Mohonk: Climb to Sky Top

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Papa Bear

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We spent last weekend at the Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, New York. Mohonk, as it is affectionatelly called, is a world renowned resort nestled in an area of ridge tops, lakes and forests (and yes gardens and a golf course) in the northern Shawangunks of New York. The area was bought in 1869 by the Smiley brothers from local farmers - who considered the steep rocky land worthless - for $10 an acre. Much of the land is now a wildlife preserve, and the lodge, dating from the 1870s, is now a national landmark. It is still owned by the Smiley family and is one of the best and last of its type still in existance in the mid Hudson and Catskill region.

Mohonk Mountain Lodge from across Mohonk Lake

(click for larger image)

Our weekend was primarily to celebrate our 40th anniversary, which we did with great enjoyment, but I managed to take Saturday afternoon off for a climb to Sky Top, a prominent ridge surrounded on 2 sides by sheer 100 foot cliffs. A tower (built in the 1920s) sits on top of Sky Top and it is a landmark visible for miles around.

The preserve has 85 miles of hiking and carriage trails. These are mostly graded for tourists and older patrons and are wide, flat cinder covered paths with very easy grades. But there are a few of what we would call "real trails" and the most "interesting" is the climb from the lodge to Sky Top.

Sky Top with it's tower.
The trail goes along the base and up through the Crevice at the far right.


(click for larger image)

I would divide the trail into two sections: the first section - called "The Labyrinth" - follows the base of the cliff for about 3/4 of a mile through a boulder field of large, very angular rocks which have fallen from the cliff face over the millenia. I would compare this section to Mahoosuc Notch but with two major differences: 1) the route is intentionally laid out for maximum "fun" in the sense that it goes over, under and around every possible rock along the route (as opposed the the "best" shortest route) and 2) in "tough" spots, wooden ladders and bridges are in place to make life a bit easier. This is not to say it's not a tough and rugged route - it is, and probably only a small percentage of the clientele from the lodge are likely to be up to its rigors. But somehow that small percentage, including families with small children, were all out there that Saturday afternoon.

Boulders and a bridge

(click for larger image)

The second section is even more "interesting". It's called "The Crevice" and takes the climber up through a crevice in the cliff face with about 100 feet of elevation gain. The crevice is roughly 6-8 feet wide at it's widest near the bottom, and it closes to probably 2 feet or less in width at the very top, at a spot known as the "Lemon Squeeze". This is the crux of the route and most folks (including myself) have to turn sideways to get through.

But the climb up has been made rather straightforward by 3 long sections of wooden ladders which turn this potentially class 4 or 5 climb into a class 2 ladder climb. If you are not claustrophobic (I'm not) and if you aren't afraid of climbing nor prone to falling off ladders, you'll be fine. There is no exposure to speak of since you are at all times in a dimly lit, narrow crevice.

The entrance to "The Crevice"

(click for larger image)

My own ascent was relatively uneventful. On the advice of some hikers who were in front of me, I passed my pack up the last ladder section since I would not have fit through the Lemon Squeeze with the pack on. When I got there, I had a little problem getting my foot up to a rock step so I had to "kneel" up two steps. Ouch, that hurt! Oh, for some long lost flexibility! The other problem is that when I was half way through the Lemon Squeeze, I decided I wanted to be facing left rather than right. But I couldn't make the turn since my hips were too wide. So I had to drop down and squirm around and then make the push up through again - this time successfully.

Once out of the crevice, I found myself on the top of a wide ledge where a few othere hikers were absorbing some sun rays and generally resting from the climb. This ledge is actually undercut and from across the lake it looks like an extremely precarious spot. But it isn't.

But this wasn't the top yet. I took a route over to the left along the top of the ledge, past a relatively narrow spot and finally climbed up to the carriage road that went to the top. Oh, did I mention there's a road to the top? Sorry.

A 10 minute road walk brought me to the tower and about another 100 steps brought me to the observation platform. The 360 degree views were magnificent. Mohonk Lake lay below with the lodge at the north end and on the horizon were Hunter Mountain snd the surrounding peaks of the southern Catskills.

The view of the lake, the lodge and the Catskills

(click for larger image)

But it was 3:30 and it would be dark in a little over an hour, so it was time to go down. The trail I had taken up was marked as one way, up only, so I took the easy way down along the road. I went through lovely woods, past an equally lovely pond and got back to the lodge in time for a leasurely shower, a nap and a four course dinner followed by dancing to the music of a very mellow band. Life was really good that day.

Lily Pond, on the road down

(click for larger image)

Photos: Sky Top Climb album
 
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Too busy/too cheap to see it for myself on my last trip S, thanks for the report.
 
Nice pics, Papa. Glad you had a good time up there. Sky Top is sort of an omnipresent icon for us down here in the Wallkill Valley. I like climbing up there from Butterville Rd. You walk down a farm road first, stop at Duck Pond, ascend a short, steep trail and then get to the other side of the Labyrinth and traverse around to the Crevice. This route is about 1300' of climbing total, which is quite a lot for the Gunks. Feels like climbing a small mountain. There is a lot more to the Ridge as well. You should come back up sometime and check out some other destinations.

Matt
 
Nice report Papa Bear. You did an excellent job of photographing the Labyrinth and Crevice rock scrambles (which are difficult subjects to capture well).

For others interested in Mohonk, it is expensive to hike at the Mohonk Resort. I don't recall the current day use fee, but if you stay at the hotel you are free to roam the resort and preserve. For day use it is much less expensive, ($9 per person in 2006) if you start from the surrounding Mohonk Preserve, and then you may hike onto the resort grounds at no additional expense. Yes, that is still expensive especially for families and groups. Most of us natives become members of the Preserve for a yearly fee, $50 individual, with discounts for families, seniors, students, and with a variety of options. The NY/NJ Shawangunk trail maps are the best, although the resort also sells a map.

As Matt mentions the Skytop tower is a landmark. It is visible from some areas of the Catskills and Hudson Highlands. I have been hiking at Mohonk for over 30 years, and I never tire of it. Back in the 1970s I red-lined all of the trails on the Mohonk Resort and Preserve. But I still have not hiked a few segments of the recently added trails,

My favorite Mohonk hike which hits the major rock scrambles: Round trip of about 12 miles, 2200' total elevation gain, 6 hours (leisurely pace to accommodate photography, views, and rock scrambling). Hike in from the Preserve's Spring Farm trailhead and choose from a variety of old carriageways and paths (e.g. Cedar Drive or Bonticou Road) to reach the Rock Rift Crevices, a mostly level but fun rock scramble. Then another series of roads and paths to take a side scramble down, around, and up Zaidee's Bower. Then down the Laurel Ledge Road to the base of a three part scramble up the Giants Workshop, Humpty Dumpty, and Eagle Cliff ascent. Then down to the lake, through the Labyrinth and up the Crevice to Skytop. Then take the Skytop Road past the reservoir (Papa Bear's term Lilly Pond is more descriptive) to the Fox Path. Through the Piney Woods and past the golf course (fore!) on the Spring Farm Road. Over Guyot's Hill and then scramble up the Bonticou Crag. On top there is a wide view of Catskills. Then return on the Cedar Path past the Slingerlands Gazebo and the "Million Dollar" Catskills view at the crest of Spring Farm Rd just above the Spring Farm parking area.
 
Mark Schaefer said:
My favorite Mohonk hike which hits the major rock scrambles: Round trip of about 12 miles, 2200' total elevation gain, 6 hours (leisurely pace to accommodate photography, views, and rock scrambling). Hike in from the Preserve's Spring Farm trailhead and choose from a variety of old carriageways and paths (e.g. Cedar Drive or Bonticou Road) to reach the Rock Rift Crevices, a mostly level but fun rock scramble. Then another series of roads and paths to take a side scramble down, around, and up Zaidee's Bower. Then down the Laurel Ledge Road to the base of a three part scramble up the Giants Workshop, Humpty Dumpty, and Eagle Cliff ascent. Then down to the lake, through the Labyrinth and up the Crevice to Skytop. Then take the Skytop Road past the reservoir (Papa Bear's term Lilly Pond is more descriptive) to the Fox Path. Through the Piney Woods and past the golf course (fore!) on the Spring Farm Road. Over Guyot's Hill and then scramble up the Bonticou Crag. On top there is a wide view of Catskills. Then return on the Cedar Path past the Slingerlands Gazebo and the "Million Dollar" Catskills view at the crest of Spring Farm Rd just above the Spring Farm parking area.

I've been to all those places, most of them several times, but never all in one day! Now that's a route I've got to try one of these days. Next summer around the solstice I'd also like to traverse all the way from Sam's Point to Spring Farm as a dayhike. With a car drop-off of course.

Matt
 
That's a fun hike! I recall being one of those children you saw doing the trail,having done it when I was around 11 years old!

Visiting the Mohonk Preserve to hike (non Mountain House Guests) can be pricey(last I was there it was ten bucks a person to use thier trail system), so I have always opted to hike next door in the Minnewaska State Park and Preserve for the nominal six dollar parking fee (yeah, I'm cheap).

What an amazing place to celebrate your 40th at! Happy Anniversary!
 
Mark Schaefer said:
Nice report Papa Bear. You did an excellent job of photographing the Labyrinth and Crevice rock scrambles (which are difficult subjects to capture well).

...

Then take the Skytop Road past the reservoir (Papa Bear's term Lilly Pond is more descriptive) to the Fox Path.
Actually "Lily Pond" was from the Hotel's map. They labelled the old quarry next to the tower as the reservoir. The quarry was actually the first reservoir. After they built the tower they had this big hole where all the rock came from. What to do? Line it with cement and let it fill with water. Since fire was the biggest danger to these old lodges, they laid a 6 inch cast iron pipe down to the hotel (at great effort). With 300 feet of elevation above the hotel, they had plenty of water pressure.

The hotel library has lots of nice documentation on the construction of the lodge, the tower, etc.

BTW: yes, the place is expensive. But for outdoor lovers like ourselves, it was well worth the $$ for such a very special occasion. The service was truly awesome as was the quality of the meals.
 
Papa Bear said:
Actually "Lily Pond" was from the Hotel's map. They labelled the old quarry next to the tower as the reservoir. The quarry was actually the first reservoir. After they built the tower they had this big hole where all the rock came from. What to do? Line it with cement and let it fill with water. Since fire was the biggest danger to these old lodges, they laid a 6 inch cast iron pipe down to the hotel (at great effort). With 300 feet of elevation above the hotel, they had plenty of water pressure.
You are correct, sir. I see even on the current NY/NJ map #106 (included in the Shawangunk Trails map set) the second is now labeled Lily Pond. It was also built as a reservoir, and my older maps had both bodies of water were labeled Reservoir. The remaining evidence of the Lily Pond's origin is the "Reservoir Path" which connects the Sky Top Path to the Lily Pond.

Papa Bear said:
BTW: yes, the place is expensive. But for outdoor lovers like ourselves, it was well worth the $$ for such a very special occasion. The service was truly awesome as was the quality of the meals.
Back in my redlining days I used to easily recoup the cost of my Mohonk Preserve membership. Rarely do I have time to make that many trips to the Preserve in one year anymore, but I feel it is still worth the cost to support the Mohonk Preserve which does an excellent job of conservation. I love the resort as well. I've attended many concerts, weddings, and other events there. It is indeed a beautiful setting for special occasions.

edit: Congratulations on your 40th anniversary. May there be many more!
 
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Very nice report, PB. I was introduced to Mohonk about 10 years ago and try to get back every year. It is now my wife's favorite place to hike. She is not a peakbagger, and prefers hikes that are "different". As much as she enjoys the carriage roads in Mohonk, she really has a lot of fun in the Rock Rift Crevices, Labyrinth, and the Crevice going up to Skytop. I had to laugh when I read Mark's comment about the difficulty of capturing the scenery at Mohonk as it always seems disappointing looking at the pictures when we get home. I might take 100 photos and discard at least half of them. Eventually we manage to get a few good ones. It appears you had no such difficulty ...... every one of your pics are great!

One of our favorite times of year to visit Mohonk is in June when the rhododendron (or mountain laurel?) is in bloom. The trails are filled with the aroma of the flowers, white and pink blooms everywhere, and the beauty of the gardens (near the hotel) is just amazing.

Happy Anniversary!
 
i12climbup said:
Very nice report, PB. ... I might take 100 photos and discard at least half of them. Eventually we manage to get a few good ones. It appears you had no such difficulty ...... every one of your pics are great!
Actually I took 118. The ones in the album are after the cull.

There are a few more which were more anniversary oriented as opposed to hiking oriented (with some overlap) here. Amusingly, they show a few pics of folks in a mule drawn carriage. Those folks thought they had it easy, but they were cold.

i12climbup said:
Happy Anniversary!
Thanks very much.
 
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